UKBouldering.com

snowballing 2013 edition (Read 99866 times)

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8017
  • Karma: +634/-116
    • Unknown Stones
#100 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
March 31, 2013, 08:04:53 pm
A word to the wise. There was a hell of a lot of melt going on today. Out of the wind it was tropical temperatures. Get to it, quick!

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1150
  • Karma: +126/-0
#101 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
March 31, 2013, 08:50:16 pm
Cheers for the report chris, useful as I'm hoping to get out tomorrow morning.

No worries, I reckon your mate in prison could have a good day at the Plantation tomorrow.

Highline was dry and there was plenty of snow in the gap to make it safe.

Deadline was fine and for gentleman of a tall nature seemed most agreeable for the 7b+ tick (there was a bit of debate over where the line went. We used a heel on the arete to reach from the big pocket to the pocket on Breadline. The 2002 guide says this is in, however later guides show the line launching up the blunt arete). Spoke to someone who I believe was Andy B of this parish who reckoned the hold on Breadline was in.

There were plenty of people at the bouldering around Deliverance / Business but as we didn't walk over there I can't say for sure what was dry.

Should also have mentioned that Silk should be snowballable now with a bit of shovel work to sort the landing.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#102 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
March 31, 2013, 09:04:00 pm
Cheers for the report chris, useful as I'm hoping to get out tomorrow morning.

Anyone know how much of the "normal" bouldering at burbage north is ok? And, has anyone done Promise yet?
There are bits of snow free bouldering at Burb N, but you'd be off on the other side of the valley for that sort of thing. Burbage West and Higgar are both completely snow free.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5785
  • Karma: +230/-4
#103 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
March 31, 2013, 11:29:36 pm
The Promise and Superstition have great platforms, but there was a big wet streak down the arete of the promise from snow in the break when we walked past - I cleared most of this out so hopefully will be dry by tomo afternoon. Thanks to all platform builders - amazing day.

El Mocho

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 630
  • Karma: +148/-1
#104 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 09:34:56 am
9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.

9 is Enuff 7A+

Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:


205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1150
  • Karma: +126/-0
#105 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 09:50:27 am
9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.

9 is Enuff 7A+

Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:



Saw the chalk on this yesterday afternoon when we headed over. The cornice above was melting though and there was quite a big wet streak down it so not sure how good it will be today.

A guy on White Wand got a face full of ice as he was climbing it when part of the cornice broke. Be careful out there people!

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11472
  • Karma: +700/-22
#106 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 10:56:40 am
9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.

9 is Enuff 7A+

Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:



Wow, nice work, had my eye on that one! The drift is higher than I expected though, can you pull onto White Wand above the crux?

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1500
  • Karma: +128/-5
#107 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 11:52:21 am
I'm loving this thread.

From my office looking out over London Bridge. You make your choices...

Maybe it'll still be ok this weekend...?

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11472
  • Karma: +700/-22
#108 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 12:00:16 pm
If the forecast is right it'll be sound.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8017
  • Karma: +634/-116
    • Unknown Stones
#109 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 04:25:14 pm
Good work Ben and co. Thanks for the platform on WW. You do pull on post crux I believe (though a crouch start was insisted upon!)

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
#110 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 07:12:02 pm
Anyone out tomorrow? I'm keen for Burbage north and Stanage. My list keeps getting longer.

dave

  • Guest
#111 snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 07:31:21 pm
I might be out in the PM, hit me up.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#112 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 07:37:01 pm
Small bit of newness: the gap between Breadline and Big Air (start up breadline, shuffle right along the slopers as per Highline then exit direct up the blank slab) = Snow Line, no idea of grade. 7b ish?

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1150
  • Karma: +126/-0
#113 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 07:54:24 pm
I'm loving this thread.

From my office looking out over London Bridge. You make your choices...

Maybe it'll still be ok this weekend...?

For people who haven't been out it's hard to convey just how much snow is out there. There are whole butresses at Stanage that are buried beneath drifts. As mentioned some of the platforms (i.e. White Wand) are so ridiculously high that even the crux is covered.

It's going to take more than a few warm days to melt it all.

We platformed Silk, Slap and Spittle and Turtle Power today (the latter needed a cornice knocking off the top but should be dry tomorrow).

No More Excuses / Crew Pegs was fine.

Goosey Goosey saw a couple of ascents and while the crux is in highball territory you'll need to bring your topping out skills with you.

The Mother of Pearl dyno should also be OK above a couple of mats.

I've got quite a bit of video footage from the last few days but no idea when I'll get the chance to edit it at the moment.

b3n99

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 257
  • Karma: +35/-0
#114 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 08:40:36 pm
Anyone out tomorrow? I'm keen for Burbage north and Stanage. My list keeps getting longer.

I'm looking to get out tomorrow too, fancy Burb North stuff as well as Apparent North maybe, PM me if your keen

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#115 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 08:58:47 pm
I'm keen to get out Wednesday (working tomorrow) if anyone is about

b3n99

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 257
  • Karma: +35/-0
#116 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 09:05:17 pm
This is Goosey Goosey Gander at the moment. Pushes into soloing at the top but its pretty steady up there (if you can jam). Crux is at a slightly worrying height but not too bad, couple of us jumped off from there.
http://flic.kr/p/e7XUAo

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4891
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#117 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 09:13:59 pm
flippin 'eck...

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2010
  • Karma: +83/-0
#118 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 09:43:15 pm
I'm keen to get out Wednesday (working tomorrow) if anyone is about
Im very keen to get out Jim, maybe with  Nai as well.
Itwould only be for some part of the afternoon and I have a specific agenda of Ai no Corrida and 3 blind mice if thats of any nterest ?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20289
  • Karma: +642/-11
#119 snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 09:58:10 pm
I might be about on Wed too.. Could co-ordinate some liftage from manc side etc.. TT

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2010
  • Karma: +83/-0
#120 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 01, 2013, 10:15:58 pm
sorry but you've had your chance mate  :)
Playing in American sun while weve had to put up with perfect conditions and snow playforms.


Ill PM you my number, twitter etc

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#121 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 02, 2013, 08:11:58 am
For people who haven't been out it's hard to convey just how much snow is out there. There are whole butresses at Stanage that are buried beneath drifts.

Some more snaps from my wander around on Saturday to help...

The descent at Balcony Buttress (where you step over the gap to a hueco)...


Normal Descent by slack---line, on Flickr

So instead I followed the steps up...


Kicking Steps by slack---line, on Flickr

As you can see Balcony Buttress ledge is completely drifted up to the level of the top.  You can just about get into the cave (there was a cool column of snow on the way in, pics on other camera, not sorted them yet)...


Stanage Balcony Buttress by slack---line, on Flickr

The gully above Robin Hoods Cave (you could get into the cave by sliding through the hole at the bottom, taking care not to carry on off the ledge and down Paucity!)


Robin Hoods Cave by slack---line, on Flickr

Approaching the Plantation from Popular End...


Stanage Plantation by slack---line, on Flickr

Towards High Neb from above Plantation...


High Neb by slack---line, on Flickr

Another stitch of Popular End taken on the walk back to the car (view on Flickr for scrolling around, descent by Flying Buttress, totally snowed up as are lots of other areas)...


Stanage Popular by slack---line, on Flickr

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#122 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 02, 2013, 09:51:59 am
Had a drive out round Stanage, Higgar, Burbage yesterday. Never seen anything like it, it's bonkers. Wish I could climb.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2971
  • Karma: +335/-2
#123 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 02, 2013, 10:02:06 am
This all looks amazing. I have to remind myself that most of it is far too hard for me even with 10' of snow underneath.

What are the chances of a less ankle-snappy version of Archangel coming into condition in the next few days?

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1440
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#124 Re: snowballing 2013 edition
April 02, 2013, 10:04:17 am
Lots of snow at the base that could be platformed but would need a lot clearing off of the top first

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal