UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Pako on April 15, 2015, 02:53:06 pm
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My hopes and dreams for this season:
Dmitrii wins the overalls by staticing everything and looking clinically depressed after every problem
Jan Hojer campuses
The IFSC gets rid of the universally hated commentator and replaces him with someone who at least doesn't constantly root my ears.
Shauna Coxsey wins the overalls - what else can I say in this dangerous forum
Alex Puccio wins an event, or at least manages to go to one (has anyone else heard about how she is crowd fundraising to pay for her travelling expenses? And I assumed she had some good sponsors since she is so well known now because of her one armed exploits.)
Dmitrii somehow manages to get a visa for Canada and defeat the Germans a la Stalingrad in Toronta in 2 weeks.
What does UKB think?
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My hopes and dreams for this season:
Dmitrii wins the overalls by staticing everything and looking clinically depressed after every problem
And wuthout heel hooks or drop knees
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My hopes and dreams for this season:
Dmitrii wins the overalls by staticing everything and looking clinically depressed after every problem
And wuthout heel hooks or drop knees
A true disciple of Malc
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Just seen the first event in Grindelwald has been cancelled due to loss making event last year, and key sponsors dropping out this year...
So currently the first boulder world cup is Toronto 30-31 May!
Obviously quite important to find an alternative venue, but nothing as of yet....?
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But in reference to the actual topic...
I liked the old commentator Dan, better than any replacement IFSC has used when he was unable to attend. Pete Ward who did the US bouldering events was quite good.
I think the Women's is going to be between Shauna, Pooch and Akiyo. Pooch looks to have put in some serious training, Akiyo just looked awesome last year but Shauna was oh-so-close.
For the men - harder to call. Ondra's apparently entering more (all?) events this season, Jan's a monster, Sean looks like he's been on a training binge (though interestingly not climbing-focussed)... Tough one to call.
In other news, I think USA Climbing should be slightly ashamed that Pooch is having to crowdfund... (Currently at 58%) https://usaclimbing.rallyme.com/rallies/1605/alexpuccio
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According to the IFSC calendar, there are only 6 events this year, 2 of which will be in Canada. Not looking good for Dima who can't get to Canada due to visa problems. Sad days. I sort of hope Ondra doesn't win the overalls in bouldering, his bouldering style just isn't as good to watch as someone like Jan who campuses everything or Dima who statics everything.
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Durbs I think I read somewhere American sponsors are only interested in the abs and that's why so few Americans take part in the ifsc events.
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Quite possible/probably - and I'm fine with them not sending an entire team, but to have their number one contender for an overall win come cap-in-hand to the community is loco. I'm quite surprised that for just one athlete that could easily win and wave the stars and stripes from the #1 seat they've left her high and dry. The implication from Pooch's post is she's getting zero funding from USAC.
For the men, the ABS possibly highlighted how weak their male team is on the global stage :worms:
I noticed however that whilst Pooch has her own crowdfunding page - there also seems to be one for the rest of the team:
https://usaclimbing.rallyme.com/rallies/1574
Myself and 5 other men and 6 women are working our way to attend the 5 bouldering World Cups across the globe. 2 in North America; 2 in China and 1 in Europe.
I can't work out if Josh is fundraising for all of these, or just himself - his goal is $3500 compared to Pooch's $10,000.
(Incidentally, I feel she may have set her goal too high there? Obviously it's an expensive season, but if RallyMe is the same as Kickstarter etc, if she doesn't make $10,000 she won't get anything?)
Out of interest, what's the prize fund for individual comps/overall?
Regarding round 1 being cancelled, the IFSC page has said they're looking for a replacement, for 1st and 2nd May - no update yet though.
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Just seen the first event in Grindelwald has been cancelled due to loss making event last year, and key sponsors dropping out this year...
So currently the first boulder world cup is Toronto 30-31 May!
Obviously quite important to find an alternative venue, but nothing as of yet....?
what the actual fuck?!
No offence graeme but the IFSC look increasingly farcical to me.
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I saw on fb that Louis Parkinson, the British boulderer, has started a crowdfunder to go to Canada because 'the GB team doesn't have the funds to cover the costs of sending me'. Sort of worrying that so many athletes have to resort to this in order to compete. Perhaps if the events were in Europe where there is more interest in the sport there would be more sponsorship.
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Perhaps if the events were in Europe where..
...most of the top competitors are based!
I don't understand how Grindlewald gets cancelled because last year lost money TWO WEEKS before the event?? surely this has been known for months and months?!
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The implication from Pooch's post is she's getting zero funding from USAC.
For the men, the ABS possibly highlighted how weak their male team is on the global stage :worms:
I would guess 10k is double the yearly operational budget of USAC. It really is sad. The US male team might not be so weak if there was some incentive to do the comps.
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I don't understand how Grindlewald gets cancelled because last year lost money TWO WEEKS before the event?? surely this has been known for months and months?!
Just a guess, but possibly because of...
key sponsors dropping out this year...
But you're right, it is ridiculous! Durbs, where did you find this info?
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doh! obv hadn't re read the post :slap:
are the sponsors not somehow contractually boliged to give a bit more reasonable notice?
It is a bugbear of mine the locations of these - I get that China pay for them, but that isn't good enough to me - they need to be concentrated (a) where the audience/market is; and (b) where the competitive competitors are based. with shawn and pooch plus the market over there, by all means go to america, having two back to back weekends, or even within a fortnight makes sense and allows competitors to save on flights. Akiyo in particular and the strength of the japanese and S. Korean teams means its prob worth having one in japan, assuming the market is worthwhile. But really, half of these should be in Europe, and there shouldn't be a massive gap over the summer either.
End rant.
I know there's much more issues and complications than these, and it's not that easy, sorry.
still shouldn't force everyone to go to china though
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I hope to see the Wurminator poking her tongue out a lot again :wub:
Also the Pooch one-arming on every finishing hold :strongbench:
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I'm really surprised by this. I followed both the lead and bouldering IFSC events last year and was mightily impressed and was looking forward to this years believing that the events would be even better due to the (apparent) success of last year. I was also hopeful that there would be a UK venue.
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Sources :-
IFSC: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/latest-news/item/586-cancellation-of-the-2015-ifsc-world-cup-in-grindelwald
Grindelwald: http://www.boulderhappening.ch/en/home.html
Perhaps even more interesting is the lack of coverage about this - I only came across it by accident, didn't see anything on any of the athlete's twitter/instagram etc.
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doh! obv hadn't re read the post :slap:
are the sponsors not somehow contractually boliged to give a bit more reasonable notice?
It is a bugbear of mine the locations of these - I get that China pay for them, but that isn't good enough to me - they need to be concentrated (a) where the audience/market is; and (b) where the competitive competitors are based...
...
I know there's much more issues and complications than these, and it's not that easy, sorry.
At least there's no Azerbaijan this year... I'm always surprised China gets the comps - as you say, they must pay for them, but they don't have any competitors (that I can think of), and being China, you'd think they'd only host stuff in a "look how great China is" kind of way...
Surprised Japan / Korea / Russia don't offer to host - all wealthy & sporty nations, with strong competitors and the infrastructure to do so.
Also - why not move CWIF into a World Cup round, rather than a warm-up event?
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Think Graeme did say something to that effect (that they pay) last year when I bitched, but yes, IIRC there was only a couple of Chinese through to semis, and only because there wasn't enough foreign athletes...
Would have to find the posts from last year to be sure, but Graeme did quote some figures for costs which were pretty bloody high I thought, so perhaps not that suprising the average wall can't justify it.
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American sponsors are only interested in the abs
If that's the case then Pooch should be paid a fortune.
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Men:
1. Adam Ondra
2. Jan Hojer
3. Guillaume Glairon Mondet
(Dmitry Sharafutdinov can hardly place top three since he will not get visa for Canada?)
Women:
1. Akiyo Noguchi
2. Juliane Wurm
3. Shauna Coxsey
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If Rustam could make a comeback it would be great. I think the last time a boulder world cup was held in Moscow was 2010. It was run pretty well though, nice routesetting. At least the qualis didn't get rained on like in Innsbruck, making lots of already climbed qualifiers useless... The incompetence of the IFSC really is astounding sometimes.
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I'll try and organize a few substitute events on my board, for those athletes who can't travel to USA and Canada.
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So Pooch is asking for 10k for 5 events, one of which is down the road, one in Canada and two in China a week apart?
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Your point?
I take it you mean she's asking for a lot? You didn't mention the event in Europe. How much do you think it costs to go to these events? A return to Europe £600, hotel and food for duration. China, fuck knows cost of flight, a lot. As well as hotel and food for 2 wks. Flight hotel and food in Canada. At least food in states. Extra large dildo in each location, all adds up. Loss of earnings etc. Well if she worked.
The world cups cost a small fortune if you're not sponsored to go.
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Go Pooch.
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Extra large dildo in each location, all adds up.
I don't understand why she should get a new one in each location. Can't she buy one good enough for the whole season?
:worms:
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What is in that can Nibs?
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That's the "can of worms" emoticon, that - depending on the topic - can also double as the "can of vibrating dildos" emoticon.
;)
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Surely there are not THAT many locations that require the services of extra-large dildos....
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China, fuck knows cost of flight, a lot. As well as hotel and food for 2 wks.
flights booked in advance to china from the uk are roughly £800 going cheap routes (one or two changes) plus £100+ for a business/working visa. I would expect similar from USA. A decent hotel circa £70-£100 per night with breakfast. Evening meals in the hotel are circa £20 base on my experience. Lots of cheap places to eat out of the hotel.
You would also need a guide or a translator for outside the hotel. My experience is taxis do not speak english and you have to haggle about the price of everything.
internal flights are normally in the region of £100-200 depending on distance.
China could easily cost over £2000-3000 for 10-12 days
So $10000 (£6k?) does not sound like she is asking for a lot really for doing the full comp season.
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The USA Climbing website advises its athletes:
Pick one specific goal you are trying to reach. Consider asking for $8,000 to pay for travel, training and fees for a certain series of competitions, for example. Or $4,500 to pay for new equipment. Think about doing two smaller Rallies a year versus one huge one.
So yeah, 10 grand for the world series seems fair enough.
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Can't work out the IFSC website, but possibly Innsbruck is now the first round on 15-16th May?
It's the European Championships, but I can't work out if it also counts as a World Cup event...
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1606
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Also - just in case you hadn't spotted this before making your prediction - SBC is entering all the world cups.
https://twitter.com/sierrablaircoyl/status/588717503540428800
Just to confirm - Pooch has to crowdsource, SBC doesn't.
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Also - just in case you hadn't spotted this before making your prediction - SBC is entering all the world cups.
https://twitter.com/sierrablaircoyl/status/588717503540428800
Just to confirm - Pooch has to crowdsource, SBC doesn't.
wow
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Innsbruck looks like just Euro boulder champs to me - where does it say anything about world cup?
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The IFSC website says something along the lines of "The season starts with..." but wouldn't make sense being a WC if it's Euro-only...
Unless it's an ABS style "You won, but didn't win" scenario ;)
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Also - just in case you hadn't spotted this before making your prediction - SBC is entering all the world cups.
https://twitter.com/sierrablaircoyl/status/588717503540428800
Just to confirm - Pooch has to crowdsource, SBC doesn't.
Is this for real? Is that because SBC's sponsors are paying her way, or the US climing are?
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[Speculation]
Sponsorship aside, I get the impression SBC comes from quite a wealthy family... Her recent instagram posts of her home climbing gym are immense:
https://instagram.com/p/02-ZQjsu0s/?taken-by=sierrablaircoyl
looks like a full squash/basketball court she's kitting out, which doesn't particularly suggest a penny-scrimping household.
[/speculation]
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I don't think it's her house. In some posts they're talking about building a gym in a new building, still not opened.
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Not sure - pretty certain it's their..ah racquetball court:
http://www.sierrabc.com/blog/2015/4/the-wall-blog-sbcgym
"The History
I have always wanted a climbing wall. When I was 14, a wall was almost built in the space (racquetball court), but it ended up not being the right fit for me at the time. I am so glad that I waited to build the wall, because it is exactly what I want and need right now!"
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SBC and the Pooch could share a hotel room, that would reduce the costs. :ang:
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SBC and the Pooch could share a hotel room, that would reduce the costs. :ang:
This makes me think very bad things.
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:worms:
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:worms:
Which meaning do you give to the emoticon, of the two that I proposed before?
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"The History
I have always wanted a climbing wall. When I was 14, a wall was almost built in the space (racquetball court), but it ended up not being the right fit for me at the time. I am so glad that I waited to build the wall, because it is exactly what I want and need right now!"
:o
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Not sure - pretty certain it's their..ah racquetball court:
http://www.sierrabc.com/blog/2015/4/the-wall-blog-sbcgym
"The History
I have always wanted a climbing wall. When I was 14, a wall was almost built in the space (racquetball court), but it ended up not being the right fit for me at the time. I am so glad that I waited to build the wall, because it is exactly what I want and need right now!"
It'll be interesting to see whether her competing in a world cup season results in SBC colliding head-on and publicly with the reality of not being a particularly good climber just a highly marketable pair of tits/legs/arse; or whether she up's her level and proves she has some real substance by disproving her critics. The cynic in me thinks she could cash in big time if she does better than expected i.e. makes a couple of semi-finals. Then again she could completely embarrass herself and it probably wouldn't hurt her marketability. That says something about what we value.
If it's true about SBC going and a real contender like Puccio potentially missing out due to funding problems then that's disgraceful and makes the competition scene look like a bit of a joke.
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If it's true about SBC going and a real contender like Puccio potentially missing out due to funding problems then that's disgraceful and makes the competition scene look like a bit of a joke.
I assume SBC would have had to qualify for the U.S. Team like they do in the UK? If she is going because her parents are rich but Pooch can't afford it, then that's a real shame but is a reflection on what you can do if you're rich!
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:worms:
Which meaning do you give to the emoticon, of the two that I proposed before?
Guess!
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As long as SBC has some tiny shorts riding up her arse I doubt her sponsors will care where she places.
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If she is going because her parents are rich but Pooch can't afford it, then that's a real shame but is a reflection on what you can do if you're rich!
Indeed. I get the impression that youth comps (at least in countries like ours with low comp funding) have long been as much about who can afford to go as who's the top of the tree in terms of ability.
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If she is going because her parents are rich but Pooch can't afford it, then that's a real shame but is a reflection on what you can do if you're rich!
Indeed. I get the impression that youth comps (at least in countries like ours with low comp funding) have long been as much about who can afford to go as who's the top of the tree in terms of ability.
:'( Something that will never fail to offend my naive meritocratic heart.
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Bear in mind I've never been involved in the comp scene, so maybe it's not as bad as I suspect it is... but I've spoken to at least 1 parent of a strong youth who isn't sending their kid to many of the comps because it costs too much to be justified. The last world youth champs were in the middle of nowhere (new caledonia??) so basically only well funded kids (whether funded by national team or parents) went to it.
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As I mentioned, my point was pure speculation. Pooch might have mega wealthy folks but she wants to stride out on her own, SBC might have errrr built a racquetball court from twigs and leaves...
Having said that, SBC didn't look too shabby at the ABS and held her own at the DWS comp against Michaela so maybe she'll surprise us and make some semis.
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SBC climbs what, about 7C or so? One of the locals here who boulders around that level made the women's semis at the Munich world cup round a couple or years ago, so it's not unthinkable.
The Pooch situation is obviously a disgrace for anybody involved in organising/financing the US competition scene though.
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From what I read her '7c' was a chipped v5. The next hardest thing she climbed was a v7
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As Durbs said, having watched her climb, she's no slouch.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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She shouldn't be a slouch, being a professional rock climber.
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Having said that, SBC didn't look too shabby at the ABS and held her own at the DWS comp against Michaela so maybe she'll surprise us and make some semis.
It shouldn't really be a surprise if she qualifies for a semi or two. She was only a few places off in Toronto last year.
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It shouldn't really be a surprise if she qualifies for a semi or two.
Hope that was deliberate
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To be honest, I really struggle to see her as a professional climber, rather than a professional model.
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To be honest, I really struggle to see her as a professional climber, rather than a professional model.
I think a large part of being a professional climber these days is looking good in front of a camera. People sponsor you so they can sell more products after all, and Five Tens latest kicks don't look so good on Quasimodo.
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You are absolutely right, but it would be nice - and more serious - if she backed up her professional climber's image with some professional climbs.
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From her twitter feed (https://twitter.com/sierrablaircoyl):
(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/CC1mfKAVAAAE5xt.jpg)
There's not much chalk on 4, and the rungs look quite large (and not wood, which I find unusual, but hey). Perhaps she washes them? Perhaps she just does back three like Mina?
Perhaps she just goes straight to 9, like ze germans! :shrug:
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Vaguely related - out of curiosity, i tried to find which companies sponsor Pooch. I failed... except possibly Scarpa, and I vaguely recollect her being sponsored by a speaker company...
So you could argue she needs to up her game - I doubt sponsors don't view her as marketable, perhaps she doesn't want to / can't play the game...
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Try harder! A quick search reveals
Five Ten
Prana
Revolution
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx%3FUserId%3D16483
And over-caffeinated sugary drink company
http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/uk/en/athletes/1331641917874/ifsc-alex-puccio
So not bad. Especially as she hasn't blogged since 2011 and doesn't habitually release videos of her recent ascents http://alex-puccio.blogspot.co.uk/
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She's pretty active on instagram and twitter.
https://twitter.com/alex_puccio
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her instagrammming would seem to suggest Scarpa, Petzl and Fugoo (who make speakers).
https://instagram.com/p/1Yx6tpGVxE/
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Interesting article and comments here...
http://cruxcrush.com/2015/04/17/alex-puccios-controversial-crowdfunding/#more-10759
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her instagrammming would seem to suggest Scarpa, Petzl and Fugoo (who make speakers).
https://instagram.com/p/1Yx6tpGVxE/
Yeah, guess the ones listed on 8a.nu have probably changed - she seems to have signed with scarpa in 2014. http://blog.scarpa.com/world-cup-boulderer-alex-puccio-joins-scarpa-as-athlete-ambassador/
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Interesting article and comments here...
http://cruxcrush.com/2015/04/17/alex-puccios-controversial-crowdfunding/#more-10759
Interesting and whatever people think about it it's working as she's raised just under $9k.
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Perhaps if the events were in Europe where..
...most of the top competitors are based!
I don't understand how Grindlewald gets cancelled because last year lost money TWO WEEKS before the event?? surely this has been known for months and months?!
Grindelwald was cancelled on 4th Feb, federations were informed directly by the IFSC on or around this date and it was removed from the Calendar
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If Rustam could make a comeback it would be great. I think the last time a boulder world cup was held in Moscow was 2010. It was run pretty well though, nice routesetting. At least the qualis didn't get rained on like in Innsbruck, making lots of already climbed qualifiers useless... The incompetence of the IFSC really is astounding sometimes.
Rustam won the last WC of 2014 so what's this about a comeback.
Last WC in Moscow some of the wall fell down when Percy was setting.
Maybe the incompetence calling could be directed at the organisers as they are the ones that gambled on no rain
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Can't work out the IFSC website, but possibly Innsbruck is now the first round on 15-16th May?
It's the European Championships, but I can't work out if it also counts as a World Cup event...
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1606
The Euro Champs in Innsbruck does not count for the WC.
Bizarrely the Lead and Speed Euro Champs is somehow being combined with a World Cup (Chamonix) but I am not sure how it will work
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Bear in mind I've never been involved in the comp scene, so maybe it's not as bad as I suspect it is... but I've spoken to at least 1 parent of a strong youth who isn't sending their kid to many of the comps because it costs too much to be justified. The last world youth champs were in the middle of nowhere (new caledonia??) so basically only well funded kids (whether funded by national team or parents) went to it.
I think that you will find that this is how it works in most sports. Travelling to events costs money, normally at the parents expense. My nephew wouldn't be able to play cricket for N Wales if his dad couldn't afford the petrol to get him there.
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Men:
1. Adam Ondra
2. Jan Hojer
3. Guillaume Glairon Mondet
(Dmitry Sharafutdinov can hardly place top three since he will not get visa for Canada?)
Women:
1. Akiyo Noguchi
2. Juliane Wurm
3. Shauna Coxsey
Dima didn't have time to get a Canadian visa last year, he lives in Ekatrinaburg (west of the Urals) and would have had to go to Moscow. Maybe this year he will have time to get it sorted.
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If Rustam could make a comeback it would be great. I think the last time a boulder world cup was held in Moscow was 2010. It was run pretty well though, nice routesetting. At least the qualis didn't get rained on like in Innsbruck, making lots of already climbed qualifiers useless... The incompetence of the IFSC really is astounding sometimes.
Rustam won the last WC of 2014 so what's this about a comeback.
Last WC in Moscow some of the wall fell down when Percy was setting.
Maybe the incompetence calling could be directed at the organisers as they are the ones that gambled on no rain
Well that's a bit shit about the wall in Moscow. Yeah you're right about that with the organizers, don't know what I was going on about, should be more bloody glad to have a world cup to watch and criticize.
I meant more about Rustam continuing his form in Laval and coming back from his inconsistent nature in 2014. Back to his 2012 and 2013 nature. So good to watch him on top of his game, absolute static beast.
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Quali's underway for the Euros. Looks like Dave Barrans is through. Women starting shortly.
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1606
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Dave Barrans through to semis in 10th place in European Championships in Innsbruck.
Ben West narrowly missed out, finishing 24th.
Nathan Philips, Matt Cousins and Orrin Coley all had tops on problems too.
Watch semis here - http://www.ifsc-climbing.org from 18:00 ECT onFriday 15th May.
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Thanks for the heads-up, hadn't noticed they started on a Thursday.
Don't think Innsbruck operate on Ecuadorian time though ;)
CET is what you mean which is currently the same as BST, so 18:00 UK time
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Oh yeah! Oops!
The World Cup rounds will be on a Friday/Saturday or a Saturday/Sunday but Innsbruck is the European Championships this year and so is over 3 days. Qualies today, semis tomorrow and finals on Saturday evening.
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Leah's through I think. Is she the only brit girl there?
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Yeah Leah got through in 19th place. She is the only British girl there as Shauna got an injury last week in training, although she hopes to be back for Toronto.
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How's Michaela? Seem to remember she pulled out of the CWIF with a shoulder injury or something...do you know if she'll be competing in the world cup rounds?
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Thanks for the heads-up, hadn't noticed they started on a Thursday.
Don't think Innsbruck operate on Ecuadorian time though ;)
CET is what you mean which is currently the same as BST, so 18:00 UK time
CEST, you mean? Anyway it's 5pm UK time, just checked here http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/converted.html?iso=20150515T18&p1=1889&p2=2321
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How's Michaela? Seem to remember she pulled out of the CWIF with a shoulder injury or something...do you know if she'll be competing in the world cup rounds?
Shoulder is on the mend so hopefully.
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Looks from fb like shauna is commentating
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How's Michaela? Seem to remember she pulled out of the CWIF with a shoulder injury or something...do you know if she'll be competing in the world cup rounds?
Last time I spoke to her it didn't sound like she was, but that was a while ago.
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M3 and F4 seem a bit hard. Mens in general, 1 flash enough atm
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Mens def too hard, ondra was obv best here along with Jakob, and very nearly didn't make it through. Having a slab and a trick dyno one mover as the only doable boulders isn't great.
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Mens looked nails, a bit too much of a lottery for my liking.
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The Circuit makes good points as ever
"Well that was an interesting Semi, it raises a few questions for tomorrow for sure.
First, did Adam get his second foot on the start of 4 for his send attempt? You couldn't tell from the video but it looked marginal to me.
Second, will there be 7 to finals in the ladies, with two qualifying groups it should mean no countback to the first round.
Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"
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Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"
Looked like the camera team was manned by non climbers, all under directions to film the Austrians as 1st priority, even when they are just standing around. And 2nd priority to get as many close ups as possible, even if it means the viewers can't actually see what's happening.
Frustrating.
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Rustam came out with a strong haircut
(http://franken-wiki.de/images/thumb/5/5b/Guellich.jpg/180px-Guellich.jpg)
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Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"
Looked like the camera team was manned by non climbers, all under directions to film the Austrians as 1st priority, even when they are just standing around. And 2nd priority to get as many close ups as possible, even if it means the viewers can't actually see what's happening.
Frustrating.
Apparently local tv did filming, hence the austrian heavy and uniformed shots.
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The Circuit makes good points as ever
"Well that was an interesting Semi, it raises a few questions for tomorrow for sure.
First, did Adam get his second foot on the start of 4 for his send attempt? You couldn't tell from the video but it looked marginal to me.
Second, will there be 7 to finals in the ladies, with two qualifying groups it should mean no countback to the first round.
Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"
Actually I disagree, Eddie is possibly just being a journalist (ie shit stirring) about Adam. Eddie was in Innsbruck last year with the shit storm that surrounded Adam being stopped. Eddie knows that what you see isn't always what you get. And Eddie knows that there are myriad eyes on each climber and therefore the mono view-point that is the webcast can be mis-leading.
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Yeah I rewatched it after this comment and given his history you could see how he carefully touched his right foot to the volume on every previous go, so not concerned by the feed not showing it. His other two points are valid though, commentary def suggested mina was out on countback, and the camera work was poor.
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Cool problems, but a tad hard as has been said before. Hopefully finals will allow more male tops. Quite interesting about Rubtsov going so well, perhaps that is because of his emphasis on outdoor instead of indoor stuff lately (well relatively speaking for a Russian climber). Perhaps the Gelmanator and Sharf should try the Puccio strategy and climb outdoors for a season. I can only hope. Anyone know if Schubert will be doing lead and bouldering this year? If he wins the overall against Ondra I will be overjoyed. It is just hard to root for someone that makes everything look so easy.
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Quoi? Au contraire, I've always enjoyed watching Schubert because he makes everything look easy. And he has great hair!
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If Ondra was a reclusive beast that trained on a ramshackle board in an unknown part of the world like Sharafutdinov then I am sure I would go for him. And he needs to stop using heelhooks and other vestiges of technique, hasn't he watched Malc's video on how to climb strong?
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M3 was interesting: completely board style with bad feet and not many options for trickery. I assumed Ondra would piss it, but he instead tried to style his way up, and got shut down. As good as he is, he could probably benefit from some Malc-style training. Finals were good IMO, apart from F4.
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The men's finals were really interesting in showing the different strengths and weaknesses of the finalists. The top of M3 was quite a highlight, as was Jan's top of M2. Imagine how good Ondra would be if he got Malcishly strong. Yeah F4 was a bit silly. The other female problems were good. I had hoped that there could be a different commentator alongside Shauna though... :wall:
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On M3 i assumed that dry skin and slick slopey holds were not a great combination for Ondra.
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Great commentating debut Shauna, though I hope for your sake, that you don’t have to do it again. But if you do happen to bump into your co-presenter from yesterday, please tell him that shouting his commentary, to the point the sound feed distorts, is definitely not cool. The microphone he has been furnished with is actually there so he doesn’t have to shout. And shouting aside, his persistent wittering does grate after a while.
Of course it should be possible to just turn the sound down and enjoy the visuals, though in this case the utter ineptitude of the film crew and particularly their director (sic) meant there would have been little chance of comprehending what was happening. Never have so many key moments been missed completely, overwritten by irrelevant repeats of meaningless tight in shots of peoples feet, or distant shots where all the detail was lost. This really was an utter waste of a live feed, which is a shame as there are obviously a lot of folk all around the world, keen to watch such competitions. And judging by the rolling comments most were equally frustrated by the crap pictures…
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Poor guy. His little bowl of water was quite something. I remember reading that he said he lost a lead world cup due mainly to his skin being too dry. I wonder what causes his problem?
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The most fucked thing about it is that they have had that same commentator for years now, he features in practically all the lead and boulder world cups. Surely someone would have told him by now to change his formula? His constant cliches of screaming out the climber's surname or nationality whenever they make a move is infuriating, and his obvious lack of knowledge about the sport is even more so.
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I wonder what causes his problem?
Have you never come back from a trip with rhino hide fingertips that are awesome for climbing all day outside, only to go back to the wall and find that you can't hold on to any slopers as your skin doesn't deform into the fine texture of the holds?
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Although I'm not sure his rhino skin was necessarily the main reason for failure on M3, he seemed powered out to me.
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Somewhat dissapointed by the finals. I watched most of it on 'catch-up' and ended up skipping watching nearly everyone apart from anna/jule/ondra/hojer. Didn't exactly make for great viewing having everybody fall off everything!
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I like the commentator.
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Somewhat dissapointed by the finals. I watched most of it on 'catch-up' and ended up skipping watching nearly everyone apart from anna/jule/ondra/hojer. Didn't exactly make for great viewing having everybody fall off everything!
So you skipped Jakob? Thought he did well - would have been fighting for the win if he hadn't bungled the top of 1. Crushed the top of the dyno problem which Ondra couldn't do.
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Stephan Scarperi's send of M3 was a good watch, hope you didn't skip that.
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I enjoyed the finals - interesting problems, arguably a tad too hard for the men, but still got a good split. I thought F4 slab was a nice route, though shame no one topped it.
Also a shame the camera crews and producers seemed more intent on showing replays and crowd views rather than the actual climbing. Slight Austrian bias too (arguably understandable), do kind of wish they'd take direction from the IFSC crew but there we go.
Still don't like this commentator - thought he was ok in the semi's, but quickly tired of him for the finals. Just seems intent on rolling out as many clichés as possible ("his destiny's in his own hands" x3), and just seems like a generic sports commentator which sits at odds with bouldering really. I've said it before, but he always seems to say negative things (which Shauna kept pulling him up on); pointing out they can't win, or are out of their league, "playing for pride", "her crown has slipped" and suchlike.
Surely there must be a climber/boulderer who could offer intelligent comments rather than just filling out the airwaves (and yes - you don' HAVE to talk constantly).
Flipside, Shauna was a good colour commentator!
In terms of World Cuppage:
Jule Wurm looked in great form. Cruising things Anna was struggling with - but certainly giving Shauna something to worry about (though I suspect she doesn't as they're all chums :D )
Mina M seemed solid on the slab, but struggled on the steeper stuff
The other ladies seemed good, but I get the feeling for the World Cup events, we'll be looking at the "usual suspects" in most of the finals.
Jan looked great on M2 an M4, proper beasting. Ondra looked either out of sorts, or out of his comfort zone. Even M3 which I would've thought would suit him more he failed to even make the bonus (I think?), and he really struggled under the roof (we never did see the GoPro footage from that hold...)
Will be interesting to see how Ondra does in WC events - but going on this performance, he's possibly not as big a threat as envisaged. The Russian team seem off their game too.
I think the Men's finals arguably suffered due to the difficulty of the semis, meaning it was possibly a bit of a crap-shoot as to who qualified and so some (possibly) better climbers missed the cut - but then everyone had the same routes, so it's nothing to do with "fairness", but part of me thought some of the more usual finalists might have made for a tighter final.
Psyched for Vail though - wonder if Pete Ward's available for commentary...
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A third Vail win by Sharafutdinov would be incredible...
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Will be interesting to see how Ondra does in WC events - but going on this performance, he's possibly not as big a threat as envisaged. The Russian team seem off their game too.
In the men's comp, it would be incredible if any one person stood out ahead of the rest. Some of the competitors seem to focus almost entirely on comps, so it's amazing that an all rounder like Ondra can do so well.
That said, people talk about how much luck there is involved in getting into male finals since the field is so strong, but really there is a small group who do it regularly. Ondra is one of them. Here is the current top ten according to the rankings right now. A final without any of these names is pretty unusual, and I'm always impressed that despite (or perhaps because of?) the wierd and wacky problems thrown at the competitors, certain climbers make finals again and again.
Rank NAME Nation Points
1 HOJER Jan GER 419.89
2 GLAIRON MONDET Guillaume FRA 352.83
3 SHARAFUTDINOV Dmitrii RUS 349.05
4 FISCHHUBER Kilian AUT 259.48
5 GELMANOV Rustam RUS 232.44
6 KRUDER Jernej SLO 231.47
7 MCCOLL Sean CAN 217.25
8 BONDER Jeremy FRA 183.71
9 ONDRA Adam CZE 157.20
10 HORI Tsukuru JPN 148.69
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On my phone amd can't find the training resource thread, but here will do. Training beta podcast with pooch: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/
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Julia stuck her tongue out nicely after F4, that's all that counts.
Pretty interesting finals, shoddy camera-work aside. I thought the commentary was fine as usual, Shauna did a great job of describing the problems in detail.
F4 was disappointing, as was the lack of dynoing to a hand-fist stack in M4. I thought it was interesting to see Ondra try to work a way to static M4, must be the route climber in him. The two fairly symmetrical problems were not as fun to watch as I hoped.
As for the bowl of water, FFS, I'd climb at least half a grade harder if I had skin that needed fucking dampening!!
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Onbouldering.com write up http://onbouldering.com/european-bouldering-championships-2015-aftermath/
Bjorn's notes
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69731
[Dmitry] wasn't too happy with the setting. "It's only, jumps, jumps, jumps. This is bad for me."
...
He wasn't very optimistic about his chances in the semi final though. "More jumps. I know it.".
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Popcorn at the ready :D
I can't wait to see how Pooch does - see if the training pays off... Likewise Sean seems to have been training a LOT this year (though not specifically bouldering).
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If I'm reading the results right, seems Jan Hojer is out at the qualifying stage. Jorg Verhoven, James Kassay and Dave barrans also look to be out.
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Can anyone get the girls results? Website and app seem to be down amd nothing posted on fb
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The qualifiers results on the IFSC page seem to only show the results from group 1. Sean McColl said he is in finals on his fb, and he doesn't appear at all in group 1, so I assume they just haven't put up results for the other qualifier groups.
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Mens qualification probs
https://youtu.be/xrH1v8wZ8Ks
Pako, I can see mens results on the app, Sean is through.
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The IFSC server crashed not long after the women started climbing so only a few results were showing. It is now working again so the 2 IFSC Judges are now inputting all of the women's scores so the Start Lists will be ready in the morning. (11.20pm here in Canadialand)
I sent Iain Mackenzie photos of the female results (or at least the top half of each group) earlier, they are on his Facebook https://www.facebook.com/iain.mckenzie.315
We had to go old skool and use an old Excel results sheet.
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Cheers Graeme, think you can only see the pics if you're friends on fb though.
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App seems to be updating now though, looks like leah only just missed out on semis. SBC out. Usual suspects all through.
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Also, looks like all ten of the French team made semis!
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Apparently Jan is not in semis?
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that's how it goes
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Really happy to see Elsa Ponzo (who occassionally drop in down my wall for a session) get into the semi in only her 2nd adult competition.
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live from 16:00 UK time here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwovjNhSVro
start lists
Women:
Le Neve Melissa FRA
Noguchi Akiyo JPN
Puccio Alex USA
Wurm Juliane GER
Gibert Fanny FRA
NONAKA Miho JPN
Stöhr Anna AUT
Johnson Alex USA
Coxsey Shauna GBR
Sa Sol KOR
Hayes Margo USA
Saurwein Katharina AUT
Durif Charlotte FRA
ONOE Aya JPN
Klingler Petra SUI
Payne Angela USA
Kruder Julija SLO
Sandoz Mélanie FRA
MartinMeagan USA
PONZO Elsa FRA
Men:
CHON Jongwon KOR
Schubert Jakob AUT
FUJII Kokoro JPN
SUGIMOTO Rei JPN
Bonder Jeremy FRA
MAWEM MICKAEL FRA
LEVIER Alban FRA
OGATA Yoshiyuki JPN
Kruder Jernej SLO
McColl Sean CAN
Dornauer Alfons AUT
Ondra Adam CZE
Holowach Jason CAN
Mecherzynski- Wiktor Andrzej POL
Scarperi Stefan ITA
Skofic Domen SLO
Cornu Manuel FRA
Glairon Mondet Guillaume FRA
Blaser Benjamin SUI
Coleman Nathaniel USA
Conrad Mathias GER
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:(
shauna out
and sean
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and akiyo
and GG
and jernej
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Nope, server froze again, we have the on-line results system working here but IFSC website and the app are not reading correctly
Finalists are
Melissa
Anna
Katha
Akiyo
Jule
Pooch
Manuel Cornu (FRA)
Nathaniel Coleman (USA)
Kokoro Fuji (JPN)
Jongwon Chon (KOR)
Adam Ondra
Alban Levier (FRA)
Jeremy Bonder (FRA)
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Bit of a shake-up with the men there eh!
Nice to see Pooch in.
F1 and M3 were a bit harsh it seems. F1 seemed neat in theory but just too minimal, one top due to lanking it, ugh. Could have been a good F4 though. M3 could have had one extra hold stolen from M4 (token fun problem) and it would have seemed a more balanced set.
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Good semis I thought, only hope Alex doesn't come third like she seems to do if she qualifies first! No Jan, that's shocking. The guys that got through that we don't see a lot looked really strong!
Graham tell Eddie to get that thing off his top lip!
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Apparently Nathaniel Coleman has been training by doing V9 boulders on the minute for 30 minutes!! Not bad
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Tape of doom! That's a bit shit really.
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I hope the route-setters faces are the colour of those pink holds on F1....
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:agree:
That thing with the tape whilst matching the last hold on F1 is some fuckin' shit setting.
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what the fuck is that haha, surely they realised it would happen when they put it literally an inch away from final foothold
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shouty man has so far got 3 peoples names wrong. impressive
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what the fuck is that haha, surely they realised it would happen when they put it literally an inch away from final foothold
i hope they did it purposely, even though i find it's a bad choice.
apart from that, all problems looked very good.
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Well, I am quite sure no one could have predicted those male results... Nathaniel Coleman was a champ. Amazing that Anna Stohr can still win comps, what a beast. I hope that Puccio wins a comp this year, that would be great to see.
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Also, the fact that only Ondra (of the top boulderers) got into the finals in this competition probably means that he has a large advantage in winning the overall titles.
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:agree:
That thing with the tape whilst matching the last hold on F1 is some fuckin' shit setting.
+1. Shocking
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i wonder how nobody talks about the winner.
first ever wc win aged 21, flashed the slab problem where many lost time with shit beta for the first move (despite obvious rubber marks on the holds pointed out how the forerunners climbed it...), looked ridiculously strong whenever it was just a matter of cranking the arm (last move of the 1st problem...)
And still he was far from "perfect". Looked intimidated by the big dyno on m1, could have topped m4 had he opted to jump instead of trying to go static, etc...
I was also quite impressed by the other young frenchman, manu cornu, who works as routesetter in one of paris' gyms. Quite the opposite from his teammmate, he looked physically weak compared to the rest of the pack, and clearly trashed pn m4, but solid mentally, giving a true 100% effort and not intimidated by the big double dynos...
Wonder if he could have done better on the slab with softer/less agressive shoes...
anyway if this comp isn't an outlier for some reason (such as a familiar routesetting?), things look good for the french team
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Agreed ghisino, the french look great, even if GG seems a bit off form the last two comps.
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anyway if this comp isn't an outlier for some reason (such as a familiar routesetting?), things look good for the french team
Indeed, the French team got everyone male as well as female through to the semis as well. That's very impressive (yeah, the comp was in NA, but still!).
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Also, looks like all ten of the French team made semis!
like I said :P
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Also, looks like all ten of the French team made semis!
like I said :P
It's easier to write than read.
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Great setting otherwise. Two well deserved winners.
Puccio looked like she needs to allow matching hands when training. And someone needs to tell Le Neve to rest between attempts
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Problems generally very good apart from the aforementioned F1 tapegate.
I felt like F3 was a bit of a shame for Jule as it seemed reach dependent at the end.
Other points. I liked Sean as a commentator: frank, insightful and on the ball. Shouty man was pretty subdued (although maybe that was on account of mic sharing).
In general I wish they'd ditch the music at these events, I reckon it'd be much better to just hear the crowd and/or Ondra screaming. Bit like a tennis match. The whole loud music / MC thing feels like an awkward attempt to shoehorn climbing into the umbra of 'extreme sport events' I don't think it sits well here.
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Conversely, I like having music, and wanted the music/crowd louder on the feed.
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I felt like F3 was a bit of a shame for Jule as it seemed reach dependent at the end.
:icon_welcome:
Maybe if someone had thought "Now I wonder why they have put that massive sloper over the bonus" I mean it is not as if it meant it was harder to use the bonus. Maybe it could have been useful for the last move. Just a thought.
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Danny where were you watching from? This morning a few of us were discussing how there was absolutely no soul to the finals, no music or anything. Just shoutyman repeating ad infinitum "you will be banned from YouTube for ever, this is our house". Wtf? The climbing looked great but like I said no noise at all. Don't get me wrong thank god you couldn't hear the mc's but a bit of the eagles in the background would have been nice.
In a moment of weakness I also congratulated the french guy at the wall since the team looked so impressive. He told me he was Spanish and I said whatever just do me a latte.
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Problems generally very good apart from the aforementioned F1 tapegate.
talking to Shauna and Leah at breakfast in the hotel this morning they were both of the opinion that the experienced climbers should have been able to cope with the tape (as Jule proved).
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Conversely, I like having music, and wanted the music/crowd louder on the feed.
I suspect I'm probably in the minority on this. Good problems trump bad music though. I agree re: lack of nice vibes with respect to the atmosphere though, but I mostly had this down to inane shouty man soundbytes, and the feedback buzz.
As for Jule, well, it wasn't obvious to me what the alternative method was. Clearly missed something - but then so did three world class comp climbers, so what was the official method?
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I was also quite impressed by the other young frenchman, manu cornu, who works as routesetter in one of paris' gyms.
Pretty surprised to see my wall's receptionist/ setter turn up in the final. I didn't even know he was in the French team!
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Problems generally very good apart from the aforementioned F1 tapegate.
talking to Shauna and Leah at breakfast in the hotel this morning they were both of the opinion that the experienced climbers should have been able to cope with the tape (as Jule proved).
Perhaps - but having to keep stable via some odd knee scum instead of a nice natural flag is pretty whack, IMO. Not to be unduly critical though, setting is hard enough at the best of times, let alone I imagine, for WC finals. Rest of the probs were excellent from my armchair, so 7 out of 8 ain't bad.
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I'm sure experienced climbers should have been able to cope, like experienced climbers cope with problems where the crux is not dabbing the floor or starting in some absurd and contrived position. In either case, however, it makes for a worse problem and worse viewing. Other problems looked good though.
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I'm not sure it did make for worse viewing. I thought it was pretty nail biting waiting to see where everyone would put their foot...
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Thought shouty-man's commentary was pretty rubbish. The amount of factual errors he made, like getting who had topped which problem wrong, seemed atrocious.
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Whatever happened to the last guy who did it for a while, Daniel Finn was it? He was quite good.
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I must admit I thought the atmosphere was poor as well. I have not watched many but this was the least exciting. There didn't seem to be many people watching in a big venue which is never a good thing.
Ondra looks a bit uninterested. I was hoping that he made the men's competition more interesting but not so far.
Once again the women's comp exceeds the men's in terms of excitement.
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just do me a latte.
A latte?
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I enjoyed the music watching live in Munich last year - very good DJing I thought, and great atmosphere - but I don't miss it when I'm watching on youtube.
What does piss me off is the IFSC's comic inability to maintain and display up to date scores
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Hmmmm.
Overall I thought it was a good comp, interesting routes, last problem deciders for men and women. Tapegate is a non-issue, they all saw it in observation, and again before setting off, the comp isn't just about physical skill.
Anna looks back on form, and France representing!
Are bonuses officially called zones now?
But as a viewing experience, left a lot to be desired imho:
- Not enough ambient noise, so the whole thing felt a bit dead, especially when the commentators stopped talking whilst fiddling with tech stuff. Think they mentioned an in house crowd of 1000+? Sounded like 20...
- On that note, I'd have preferred inane chatter with buzz, rather than no chatter when combined with no ambient noise. "The show must go on" to coin a phrase.
- The search continues for a commentator who knows their stuff but doesn't annoy everyone by resorting to cliches and constant inane filler. This chap was better than the last, but still not as good as Dan. (I've said it before, Pete Ward who did the ABS finals was great)
- Not IFSC's fault but even details like dull, flat lighting made it all a bit bland.
Lots of positives to take away though! No streaming issues and good camera work (except one instance of missing the crux on m3).
Technical question for Graeme; last year it was 6 comps and you discounted your worst score. As this year there are only 5 comps, do you still drop your worst, or is it just best of five? Or is there still hope for a last minute grindlewald replacement?
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just want to give an honourable mention to Shaun McColl, for his commentary and scorekeeping.
the usual host is runs at it, and makes it impossible for people to know what's going on.
surely some techie can build an app for the ifsc that calculates , and shows on screen, who needs what to win?
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Do they not have the results displayed in real time on a screen at the comp, like at the CWIF? If so, they could just point a camera at that and put the image in the corner of the screen.
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just do me a latte.
A latte?
That's what I thought. FFS that's not going to keep dense grumpy enough.
What Barrows said about the tape, everyone pissed it 2nd time after they'd been told off, it's obviously a non-issue as far as climbing ability goes but it does make for an artificially shit problem.
The camera perspectives and split screen view worked very well for this one.
I don't mind shouty man (eh wot he's not that shouty) as a commentator, it's good to have some actual enthusiasm going on, BUT he really needs to get his accuracy sorted. Also both Shaun Coxsey and Shauna McColl made great co-commentators and should have got a bit more air-time if possible.
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Also both Shaun Coxsey and Shauna McColl made great co-commentators and should have got a bit more air-time if possible.
Shauna C had said she couldn't co-commentate as she had no voice due to a bad cold.
Shirley there must be some retired climbers who would be able to do some co-commentary - Kililan?
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I did notice that shouty man was a a bit less shouty this time, but he did occasionally revert to his old ways. When the commentary went silent it was a bit weird though, especially with the very lackluster crowd.
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Technical question for Graeme; last year it was 6 comps and you discounted your worst score. As this year there are only 5 comps, do you still drop your worst, or is it just best of five?
As Graeme hasn't answered yet, the official rules state:
"11.7.4 The maximum number of results counting toward the World Cup Ranking shall be:
a) When five (5) or less competitions are organised, all results shall count;
b) When six (6) or more competitions are organised, the number of counting results will be the number of competitions less one (1). If a competitor has competed in more competitions that the number of counting results, the competitors’ ‘worst’ result shall be discarded in calculating their World Cup Ranking."
So unless there's a last minute sixth WC added (any prospects Graeme?), Shauna has to make up 63 points to get level with Anna (for context a 3rd place earns 65 points).
At this early stage it looks like the gap between the 'Fantastic Five' and the rest has reduced this year and the likelihood of athletes such as Saurwein, Le Neve, Nonaka, Gibert, Kruder, Crane etc making up more than just sixth place is even higher; which could shake up the overall points score.
I like that the Women's field is so consistently tight fought over and the Men's is more open. The Men's feels like one off comps and the Women's is a complete series. Nothing more boring that a sport where one person has total domination, unless they're a Brit.
As for the last WC, I agree that it lacked feeling without any crowd noise. The technical hitches from IFSC website and app not updating properly and the buzzing during commentary were annoying, but I'd take all that if it it means being able to watch it live with decent camera work.
I also prefer Dan Finn over shouty man, who said Jule was the current "world and Olympic champion". Shauna and Sean have been brilliant co-commentators, but Dan and Jon Partridge at Innsbruck last year gave the best commentary I've heard so far.
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I thought the whole thing seemed pretty amateurish.
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As has been already mentioned, the commentator was not the same bloke as the one in the last comp which people referred to as "the shouty man". For the purpose of accuracy, this one should be called "the less shouty man".
Tape was daft, but entertaining for its silliness. I'm sure the route-setters won't want to replicate that entertainment anytime soon. It didn't have a major influence on the results, so just an oddity.
Great to see Nathaniel do so well. Second WC and he gets silver! Bet he's chuffed. Just looking through the list of US team members lined up for Vail - it's a shame none of the big name outdoors boulderers are booked in (Woods/Webb/Graham/Traversi) but should be interesting to see what Nathaniel and other young guns can do.
Shauna mentioned on Twitter that she was ill on the day of the semis, which explains a sub par performance. No mention of finger injury holding her back, so good news for Vail. I don't see much evidence that the chasing pack has caught up - Stohr, Noguchi, Wurm, Puccio. 1,2,3,4. And Shauna ill, so places 5 and 6 were open to the field.
As someone else mentioned, lighting was an issue. The big spotlights used in most finals do add a lot of drama. Do the IFSC issue guidelines to hosts? A basic practical ticklist like - use spotlights, keep judges from blocking cameras, etc.? Seems like if they don't, they should. It's a shame that while each comp often does a few things right (this time the camera work was better than usual) they often fail on things which were done well in previous rounds. Obviously there are various teams at work - Comp hosts, Route setters, Camera team, Tech guys etc. so I wonder if there is someone in the IFSC making sure that lessons are learned and written down, without relying on the various teams to figure it out from scratch each time?
Looking forward to Vail. The high altitude always adds a bit of interest. And I see Tyler's going to be there.
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...it's a shame none of the big name outdoors boulderers are booked in (Woods/Webb/Graham/Traversi)
Purely speculation, but er... might all fail a doping test?
As Graeme hasn't answered yet, the official rules state:
"11.7.4 The maximum number of results counting toward the World Cup Ranking shall be:
a) When five (5) or less competitions are organised, all results shall count;
b) When six (6) or more competitions are organised, the number of counting results will be the number of competitions less one (1). If a competitor has competed in more competitions that the number of counting results, the competitors’ ‘worst’ result shall be discarded in calculating their World Cup Ranking."
So unless there's a last minute sixth WC added (any prospects Graeme?), Shauna has to make up 63 points to get level with Anna (for context a 3rd place earns 65 points).
If that's the case, assuming no sixth round is added - that's pretty devastating, for both Shauna and the Russians in terms of points to make up.
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...it's a shame none of the big name outdoors boulderers are booked in (Woods/Webb/Graham/Traversi)
Purely speculation, but er... might all fail a doping test?
performance enhancing or recreational?
I wouldn't imagine there is a very strict out of competition testing programme so I doubt any organised performance enhancing doping / edit: anyone with half a brain would be caught.
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I wouldn't imagine there is a very strict out of competition testing programme so I doubt any organised performance enhancing doping / edit: anyone with half a brain would be caught.
Dunno. Pooch in her interview on Training Beta mentioned receiving a surprise early morning dope check visit at a place where she was staying in Switzerland.
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Oh, recreational - not PEDs...
http://newsletter.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/anti-doping
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Do the IFSC issue guidelines to hosts? A basic practical ticklist like - use spotlights, keep judges from blocking cameras, etc.? Seems like if they don't, they should. It's a shame that while each comp often does a few things right (this time the camera work was better than usual) they often fail on things which were done well in previous rounds. Obviously there are various teams at work - Comp hosts, Route setters, Camera team, Tech guys etc. so I wonder if there is someone in the IFSC making sure that lessons are learned and written down, without relying on the various teams to figure it out from scratch each time?
:agree:
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surely more important to keep cameras out of the way of judges - if they are to do their job?
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Think you are getting the wrong end of the stick. They both have to do a job, and the comp should be set up so neither interferes with the other. That particular problem has only occasionally been an issue. My point was that getting these small practical details right should be on the checklist of things to make sure of each time round. From where I'm sitting (ie. audience of live feed) there doesn't seem to be such a checklist, and every comp we seem to say X went well, Y was messed up, why did they do Z?
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I would guess that a lot of the logistics are down to the venue themselves, rather than IFSC.
Venues offer to host the comps, and I doubt they're really money-spinners, so things like cool lighting which would cost the venue aren't obligatory. Given Grindlewald was cancelled due to lack of money, I don't think IFSC are in a position to say "you must have X, Y & Z", or they risk the venues turning round and saying "well, we can't host it then".
IFSC could (and indeed might) supply a list of things they would like to see (rather than expect to see), but it's down to each venue to make it their own. Look at Azerbaijan last year, where the camera crew fucked off, the roof blew away and the matting turned up the day of the comp...
This is all supposition, but would explain why WC comps vary so much venue-to-venue. Note sometimes they're part of a larger event (Vail is part of the GoPro Mountain Games), other times standalone. For larger events, which presumably are profit making, you also have the economies of scale to absorb the costs of better tech, more staff etc etc.
I'm quite surprised a large sponsor, in particular over-caffeinated sugary drink company, haven't sponsored the entire World Cup series... They sponsor a few climbers, and think they sponsored Munich World Champs last year? (Or something similar). With some guaranteed funding, I think you'd then start seeing a coherent "feel" to all the World Cup events.
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Oh, recreational - not PEDs...
http://newsletter.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/anti-doping
I may be N=1 on this, but the specification and test for recreational (non-stimulant or PED) drugs pisses me off.
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I may be N=1 on this, but the specification and test for recreational (non-stimulant or PED) drugs pisses me off.
:agree:
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I may be N=1 on this, but the specification and test for recreational (non-stimulant or PED) drugs pisses me off.
:agree:
Seems a bit bizarre (especially when you consider that a sport as potentially lethal as boxing basically has no out of competition testing at all, and bugger all "within competition").
Incidentally, this was the first climbing competition of any description that I have watched. I was surprised by how sustainedly interesting it was (more action and less lengthy waiting than I expected). If this was in fact a pretty poor show, and others should be better, I'll definitely try to watch more. That said, I agree about "tape-gate"; okay, the tape was there for all to see but it would have been a shame if it had proved to be deciding - like a crappy trick question deciding an exam.
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Good to see Ty will be at Vail...
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better watch the qualliys though, I don't think he has made semis before..
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With regards to PED or recreational drugs, the fact is that for some people, even recreational drugs could have a performance enhancing effect: think about someone who suffers heavily from competition pressure, who is anxious and can't express his best due to mind games. Cannabis could have a very positive effect for him, to the point of enhancing his perf.
Mind games are a very crucial part of competing and top athletes must be prepared also in this field.
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better watch the qualliys though, I don't think he has made semis before..
Ahem
http://www.icc-info.org/pstambl.php?person=6724&cat=16 (http://www.icc-info.org/pstambl.php?person=6724&cat=16)
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
Frankly I don't believe that's the main motivation for the ban on e.g. cannabis. Sure, if you a priori want to ban cannabis then you can make Nibs' argument for the mental "performance enhancing effect", but surely nobody seriously believes that's the primary reason?
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
The idea of PEDs at all, strikes me as nebulous and I'd have to say it seems such a sliding scale that starts in a very "off white" (what about a cup of Camomile tea and a few puffs of O2 during warm up and IF Meditation is effective, how about that?).
The scale then bumps a squiggles it's way through several murky and indistinct hues to the darker shades of anabolic steroids et al.
Once again we slam down a human construct, an arbitrary line in the sand and bleach some of the greys and tint others.
I've always felt the real objective of such rules should be protection of athletes from themselves and unscrupulous coaches/agents/parents etc etc, from those "drugs" that might cause harm.
I honestly don't view a puff of dope prior to competition as any more "unfair" than a protein shake after training.
Or, come to that, why is transfusion doping any more unfair than protracted high altitude training?
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
The idea of PEDs at all, strikes me as nebulous and I'd have to say it seems such a sliding scale that starts in a very "off white" (what about a cup of Camomile tea and a few puffs of O2 during warm up and IF Meditation is effective, how about that?).
The scale then bumps a squiggles it's way through several murky and indistinct hues to the darker shades of anabolic steroids et al.
Once again we slam down a human construct, an arbitrary line in the sand and bleach some of the greys and tint others.
I've always felt the real objective of such rules should be protection of athletes from themselves and unscrupulous coaches/agents/parents etc etc, from those "drugs" that might cause harm.
I honestly don't view a puff of dope prior to competition as any more "unfair" than a protein shake after training.
Or, come to that, why is transfusion doping any more unfair than protracted high altitude training?
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http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3654312/
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
The scale then bumps a squiggles it's way through several murky and indistinct hues to the darker shades of anabolic steroids et al.
Once again we slam down a human construct, an arbitrary line in the sand and bleach some of the greys and tint others.
I've always felt the real objective of such rules should be protection of athletes from themselves and unscrupulous coaches/agents/parents etc etc, from those "drugs" that might cause harm.
I honestly don't view a puff of dope prior to competition as any more "unfair" than a protein shake after training.
Or, come to that, why is transfusion doping any more unfair than protracted high altitude training?
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I totally agree, the focus should be protection of athletes especially young impressionable ones, I suppose that draws into question the dangers of cannabis.
I suppose the altitude vs transfusion, you could argue that altitude just exploits your natural physiology but it is very grey line especially when people sleep in altitude chambers.
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Ahem
http://www.icc-info.org/pstambl.php?person=6724&cat=16
I am wrong.
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I suppose the altitude vs transfusion, you could argue that altitude just exploits your natural physiology but it is very grey line especially when people sleep in altitude chambers.
bagsie the top-bunk before the next comp ;D
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
The idea of PEDs at all, strikes me as nebulous and I'd have to say it seems such a sliding scale that starts in a very "off white" (what about a cup of Camomile tea and a few puffs of O2 during warm up and IF Meditation is effective, how about that?).
The scale then bumps a squiggles it's way through several murky and indistinct hues to the darker shades of anabolic steroids et al.
Once again we slam down a human construct, an arbitrary line in the sand and bleach some of the greys and tint others.
I've always felt the real objective of such rules should be protection of athletes from themselves and unscrupulous coaches/agents/parents etc etc, from those "drugs" that might cause harm.
I honestly don't view a puff of dope prior to competition as any more "unfair" than a protein shake after training.
Or, come to that, why is transfusion doping any more unfair than protracted high altitude training?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Soz, this is abject bollocks.
The things on the list (http://newsletter.ifsc-climbing.org/images/about-ifsc/anti-doping/wada-2015-prohibited-list-en.pdf) are banned because they are performance enhancing. Because they are viewed by most people as cheating.
You talk about arbitrary lines. Life is full of arbitrary lines. Life isn't black and white - it's shades of grey and judgement etc. but sport is an attempt to simplify things. In the modern world, we view it as a fair, equal, competition, based on the rules - the codification - and the spirit of the game.
Doping rules are part and parcel of that sport. Just like not being able to use your hands in football, if you don't like the rules, if you don't want to play the game, fuck off and play on your own or find your own game.
What if you don't want to smoke dope, but all the other competitors are doing it to win and so you end up having to smoke dope or find another sport? Sound fair? Not to me it doesn't. Unless you entered it knowing that it was all about spliffs.
That's without even getting into the health aspects of it.
Transfusions - you bring them up. I love the way these always get brought up. Usually with argument about how it's totally fine to have someone take your blood out, centrifuge it, stick it in a fridge, then re-inject it into you just when you need it because the other guy has the funding to live on mount fuji for a month and the other bloke is on argon anyway and yeah it's totally fine and undetectable anyway and you're on my team too, so by hell you'd best shut the fuck up and get out or open up your veins in the same way because by God I'm not going to lose because you aren't man enough to commit to this team and have transfusions.
For fuck's sake.
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So what sort of PEDs would be good for climbing? I mean good as in making you better at climbing. It'd be interesting to know.
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Transfusions - you bring them up. I love the way these always get brought up. Usually with argument about how it's totally fine to have someone take your blood out, centrifuge it, stick it in a fridge, then re-inject it into you just when you need it because the other guy has the funding to live on mount fuji for a month and the other bloke is on argon anyway and yeah it's totally fine and undetectable anyway and you're on my team too, so by hell you'd best shut the fuck up and get out or open up your veins in the same way because by God I'm not going to lose because you aren't man enough to commit to this team and have transfusions.
For fuck's sake.
Blood transfusions are certainly not without severe health risks. And unnaturally high red blood cell count have nice side effects like cerebral embolism, stroke, etc.
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Neither is prolonged exposure to altitude
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So what sort of PEDs would be good for climbing? I mean good as in making you better at climbing. It'd be interesting to know.
You're missing the point. There's no drug that can make you better at climbing, just like there's no drug to make you better at playing tennis, or skiing. Drugs can only improve your physical abilities, but can do nothing about technique.
So, if by "better" you mean "better", there are no drugs. If you mean "stronger" there could be many, from anorexizants, to ansiolytics, to cocaine, to steroids, each one with its pros and cons, and each one that's been probably already tested by someone.
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Has Johnny Brown hacked Nibile's computer?
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I want some of the EPO lark.
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I want some of the EPO lark.
So you should it's the fucking bomb.
http://www.outsideonline.com/1924306/drug-test
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Has Johnny Brown hacked Nibile's computer?
No.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7738/18394322016_f6ee12a92a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/u2rH63)image (https://flic.kr/p/u2rH63) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
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;D
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
The idea of PEDs at all, strikes me as nebulous and I'd have to say it seems such a sliding scale that starts in a very "off white" (what about a cup of Camomile tea and a few puffs of O2 during warm up and IF Meditation is effective, how about that?).
The scale then bumps a squiggles it's way through several murky and indistinct hues to the darker shades of anabolic steroids et al.
Once again we slam down a human construct, an arbitrary line in the sand and bleach some of the greys and tint others.
I've always felt the real objective of such rules should be protection of athletes from themselves and unscrupulous coaches/agents/parents etc etc, from those "drugs" that might cause harm.
I honestly don't view a puff of dope prior to competition as any more "unfair" than a protein shake after training.
Or, come to that, why is transfusion doping any more unfair than protracted high altitude training?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Soz, this is abject bollocks.
The things on the list (http://newsletter.ifsc-climbing.org/images/about-ifsc/anti-doping/wada-2015-prohibited-list-en.pdf) are banned because they are performance enhancing. Because they are viewed by most people as cheating.
You talk about arbitrary lines. Life is full of arbitrary lines. Life isn't black and white - it's shades of grey and judgement etc. but sport is an attempt to simplify things. In the modern world, we view it as a fair, equal, competition, based on the rules - the codification - and the spirit of the game.
Doping rules are part and parcel of that sport. Just like not being able to use your hands in football, if you don't like the rules, if you don't want to play the game, fuck off and play on your own or find your own game.
What if you don't want to smoke dope, but all the other competitors are doing it to win and so you end up having to smoke dope or find another sport? Sound fair? Not to me it doesn't. Unless you entered it knowing that it was all about spliffs.
That's without even getting into the health aspects of it.
Transfusions - you bring them up. I love the way these always get brought up. Usually with argument about how it's totally fine to have someone take your blood out, centrifuge it, stick it in a fridge, then re-inject it into you just when you need it because the other guy has the funding to live on mount fuji for a month and the other bloke is on argon anyway and yeah it's totally fine and undetectable anyway and you're on my team too, so by hell you'd best shut the fuck up and get out or open up your veins in the same way because by God I'm not going to lose because you aren't man enough to commit to this team and have transfusions.
For fuck's sake.
No.
What you have written is though, as you have missed my point by a nautical mile.
Come down off the high horse and note my objection is to the specification of certain recreational drugs and not others; whilst other activities and practices which achieve similar effect with similarly high health risks are viewed so differently.
I'm not advocating any of them.
Other recreational drugs,such as alcohol are not proscribed. You are quite at liberty to knock back a calming shot of vodka, if such is your want, prior to competing.
The negative health aspects of alcohol consumption are well known and I've met several people around Torquay on a Friday night who swear it makes them immortal supermen...
Your conjuring an image of the entire IFSC World Cup squad, stoned, giggling and chomping munchies at the next comp; is slightly amusing though.
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Other recreational drugs,such as alcohol are not proscribed. You are quite at liberty to knock back a calming shot of vodka, if such is your want, prior to competing.
Not in general.
In cases where alcohol is dangerous - e.g. motorsports - it's banned in competition. In cases where it's a performance-enhancer - e.g. rifle sports - it's banned. In others, the negative effects mean that there's no need to ban it.
You can drink booze before you go climbing. But you'd be foolish, so goes the theory.
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Yeah, climbing with a hangover sucks.
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You can drink booze before you go climbing. But you'd be foolish, so goes the theory.
Seems like you'd be foolish to smoke a joint before a bouldering comp according to this passage from the link that was posted earlier...
smoked cannabis affects cognition and performance, causes memory loss, executive function, and motor impairment, among other undesirable effects
Perhaps these downsides would be less of a factor in the route comps where problem solving and dynamic coordination aren't needed at quite the same level?
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I think a minority of athlètes could benefit from the anxiety and inhibition reduction of a light smoke.
Person all speaking I've often smoked before or during a bouldering session without significant performance reduction, as long as it was a very moderate quantity.
It did affect my psyche in 2 ways:
-lazier, more inclined to take long rests in between attempts
-more playful and less affected by "good attempt anxiety".
I would go as far as saying that on some occasions it has helped.
I wouldn't do it on the occasional friendly bouldering comp as I normally have a good,level of arousal for that exercise (doing 25 problems over 2hrs on a very crowded wall)
So it could be a performance enhancer for those who always overshoot their arousal level???
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So, are any other children-of-the-eighties getting flash-backs to legendary "sportsman" Bill Werbeniuck - the snooker player who had to drink to offset his shaky hands (and supposedly lived in a Winnebago with plumbed-in beer).
His finest achievements, to cite Wiki:
"Some of Werbeniuk's most famous feats of drinking include: 76 cans of lager during a game with John Spencer in Australia in the 1970s;[2] 43 pints of lager in a snooker match/drinking contest against Scotsman Eddie Sinclair in which, after Sinclair had passed out following his 42nd pint, Werbeniuk was reported to say "I'm away to the bar now for a proper drink";[7] 28 pints of lager and 16 whiskies over the course of 11 frames during a match against Nigel Bond, in January 1990 – after which Werbeniuk then consumed an entire bottle of Scotch to "drown his sorrows" after losing the match.[2]"
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Slightly off the off topic discussion but I found this vid from Udini of the Euros particularly interesting for the following reasons;
https://youtu.be/D3bURXwT4kw
1. The camera angles are really insightful. Several times it took me a few minutes to realise the climbers were on problems I'd already seen from poorer angles! Point for future comps?
2. Obviously it's interesting to compare styles etc. Seems Udo does this regularly after comps and the other ones from last year are well worth a watch. One of the women's ones from last year showed very clearly why Jule is number one - quicker, cleaner (if that makes sense) and reads problems sooo well...
3. Stefan Scarperis send of mens 3 was fucking awesome!
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Yeah, climbing with a hangover sucks.
:wall:
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I enjoyed the article linked to above. If I could afford HGH i'd be all over that shit. In fact, if I were Simon (ie. old/loaded/unlikely to do the Oak) i'd take HGH/testosterone, as it might well make it possible.
Personally i don't give a shit if other people thought it was cheating. I take benzos to sleep and relax, maybe that's cheating but i'm so crap i need to cheat.
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Also in that udo vid, at 0.55 Ondra puts his hands in a tuppaware. What's the deal with that?
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It's got water in so he can cool his fingers down, or whatever the water does for him.
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Oh right, i'd have thought that'd make your skin all horrible and soft
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Ondra "suffers" from very dry skin, which, on plastic, is a problem.
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better watch the qualliys though, I don't think he has made semis before..
Quals aren't webcast, so it is lucky that you are totally wrong about Ty. he made the final in 2008, semis a couple of years ago and semis last year in Toronto. So overall he has over 50% success in getting to semis.
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Oh, recreational - not PEDs...
http://newsletter.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/anti-doping
I may be N=1 on this, but the specification and test for recreational (non-stimulant or PED) drugs pisses me off.
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Care to elaborate?
Edit: you already have so ignore this post
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Wada doesn't ban drugs without evidence that they are performance enhancing in certain doses/situations etc.
WADA does however ban drugs that might have safety implications, ie you can't be pissed when competing and similarly you can't be off your face on E while competing
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A bit off topic, but it appears that Dmitrii will be competing in Vail. Hopefully he will have his usual climbing back. This will be great to watch, too bad that it is at ungodly hours in Aus.
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Also, ABS surprise winner Mohammad Jafari Mahmoudabadi :D
Unsurprisingly, large number of Team USA, plus Rustum & Dmitrii. Should be a good'un
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ok folks,I'm sorry for being thick/incompetent/techy shite but i can't seem to find the start time for the final :-[
i've googled and looked at the IFSC site but no joy Could someone point me in the right direction?
And wot no Pooch?
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And wot no Pooch?
oooo - good spot, can't see anything on social media as to why not either? her crowdfunders might be a bit narked...
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Why do you say no Pooch? She's on the start list for qualification set 2.
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ok folks,I'm sorry for being thick/incompetent/techy shite but i can't seem to find the start time for the final :-[
i've googled and looked at the IFSC site but no joy Could someone point me in the right direction?
And wot no Pooch?
It's not very well designed, confusing layout.
Pooch is there, (and Ondra, Hojer for the men,) click on Qualification 2 for the other qualy. General Results and Qualy 1 are the same.
Time is here:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1586 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1586)
got to by clicking on the Vail scrolling picture with Pooch.
which I think means semis will be around UK 1700 tomorrow and finals 0030 Sunday morning. (someone correct me if I've screwed that up)
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Ah yes - good spot/bad website.
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Thanks Iain! Slightly relieved that it's not just me that finds the website confusing.....
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Ever since its release about 3 or 4 years ago it has been one of the worst excuses for a web site that I've ever seen and has had no improvement to it since.
It used to be that you could go to the old site at http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/ which worked way better. But that stopped working this year.
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So apparently no live stream of the qualis? Pity, looks like I'll be spending a lot of time sitting around this weekend
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I'm completely confused. The semis start tomorrow at 10am (in Paris), the qualification for men according to the Vail website was at 9am this morning, womens at 3pm. How come the results are just starting to come up for the mens qualification? Does this mean the womens qualification will finish in the early hours of the morning.
I have a serious problem with time differences.
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I just checked, Vail is eight hours behind CET. So men's qualis started a little under an hour ago
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So the womens will be on from about 10pm - 1am in Vail. Seems like a pretty late finish, don't imagine it'd be easy to get any sleep after that (not with weed and beer being banned).
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Er ... no?
3 o'clock according to the timetable on the Mountain Games page (http://www.mountaingames.com/summer)
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group 1 http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1586&cat=6&route=0 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1586&cat=6&route=0)
group 2 http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1586&cat=6&route=1 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1586&cat=6&route=1)
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The Youtube link is showing the semis starting at 10am (CET), i.e starting in 15h 52m which makes no sense. Seems much more logical if it starts at 5pm (CET) in 23h ish.
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Aah, someone's just changed the Youtube timer thanks to me :jab:
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Well done :clap2:
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Barrans currently 20th, but all yhe big guns already done...
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Humph, spoke too soon.
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Ok, I have probably cocked up the timings - but going from THIS (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2015/i15_WC_VA.pdf)
Then Semis start AT THIS TIME (http://www.timeanddate.com/countdown/to?iso=20150606T17&p0=1323&msg=IFSC+Semis)
And Finals start AT THIS TIME (http://www.timeanddate.com/countdown/to?iso=20150606T2330&p0=1323&msg=IFSC+Finals)
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Why can't we just have one time zone in the world?
GMT obviously
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Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.
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Looks like Wurm might not have qualified for semi's ?
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Why can't we just have one time zone in the world?
GMT obviously
If you work in the airline industry then there is one time zone, Zulu time, which is of course GMT ;D
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Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.
Pooch got injured in iso, done her ACL, 3-6 months out.
Jule was 12th in her group, beaten by everyone's favourite 'she is not a real climber' climber, SBC.
Leah 11th in her group, just beaten by a Bonus, agonising to watch Leah and the rest of the Brits watching Claire Claire Buhrfiend on P5, fell 3 or 4 times before the Bonus (which would have meant Leah through) only for Claire to quite easily get the Bonus on 4th or 5th attempt.
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Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.
Broken ACL do out of the season, not just this round :wavecry:
Hope she has a speedy recovery
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So Jule is not in Semis? Shit luck for Puccio, she must be crushed after all her talk of winning overalls this year. Poor woman. Coleman is a beast, insane that this is only his 3rd WC.
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Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.
Pooch got injured in iso, done her ACL, 3-6 months out.
Jule was 12th in her group, beaten by everyone's favourite 'she is not a real climber' climber, SBC.
Leah 11th in her group, just beaten by a Bonus, agonising to watch Leah and the rest of the Brits watching Claire Claire Buhrfiend on P5, fell 3 or 4 times before the Bonus (which would have meant Leah through) only for Claire to quite easily get the Bonus on 4th or 5th attempt.
1: Massive bummer!
2: Massive bummer (Jule) / Yes! Knew that girl was more than a "Barbie" (SBC)
3: Massive bummer!
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Tough for Barrans too, he was even closer I belive (one less attempt for his bonus' would have seen him through)
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Good to see a couple of young Americans through as well as Coleman, I.e. Shawn Rabatou and especially Megan Mascarenhas, she looked to be crushing in the last few ABS nationals I saw.
Hopefully the semis will be good an there will be another few surprise finalists.
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Feel sorry for Pooch. ACL is nasty and painful (my sister did her's). So shit to train so hard for something then it's all over in a split second.
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Ffs pls don't let her commentate!!!
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https://instagram.com/p/3kTKBcyrg_/
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Why can't Pooch commentate?
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She doesn't speak english very well
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it's a strange world when 216 people like the fact that she's injured and on crutches!
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Not that into the comps but feel well sorry for Puccio after listening to her being interviewed on the trainingbeta podcast. She sounded really focused and dedicated to giving it everything for the comp season. Shitty misfortune.
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Not that into the comps but feel well sorry for Puccio after listening to her being interviewed on the trainingbeta podcast. She sounded really focused and dedicated to giving it everything for the comp season. Shitty misfortune.
+1 like button etc..
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Yeah poor Pooch, harsh thing to happen after all the effort she's put in. I reckon she will come back stronger though. The 261 likes thing is obviously just a way to express sympathy/respect without needing to say anything. Maybe these sites need a "I'm with you" solidarity button or something.
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Finals seem to be 11:30 our time:
For those who need the hype, finalists look a bit like this:
Birds:
Megan Mascarenas
Margo Hayes
Anna Stöhr
Shauna Coxsey
Miho NONAKA
Akiyo Noguchi
Blokes:
Jason Holowach
Nathaniel Coleman
Kokoro FUJII
Jan Hojer
Adam Ondra
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov
Sean McColl
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Good problems so far this time, splitting the field nicely unlike the too hard stuff in Toronto. Camera work good too except camera 2 being a bit unreliable. Shame the scores so slow and inaccurate to update, and the fuck up with angie Payne putting the labelling out.
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That was a painful watch, poor commentary, poor camera work, poor sound, poor. Luckily the finals are always better.
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USA! USA! (stops to casually do up shoe mid problem) USA!
Shame Jan spoilt the party a bit by being so casual on M4, but still, great result for the home team.
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Those were some great problems. On a related topic, from vail, Puccio, Guigui, and Anna Stohr have gotten injured, with Puccio and Guigui out for the season. Not sure how long Ann Stohr will be gone for.
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Also levier injured.
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Is this a record for most climbers injuried on the same wc round?
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thought m4 was poor and "obvious" setting. let's set a campus 360 on pockets because... AMERICA.
In reality it was easy for the beasts and not entertaining, at least to me.
Shame Ondra couldn't do the m3 after cruising m2, which no one else got close on.
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I liked m4. If all the problems were like m2 I wouldn't find it as interesting. The whole point of the wc is to test all the strengths and weaknesses.
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It was entering to see Jan grinning away before M4; he knew he was going to crush it.
Also, spat my tea into my cup when less shouty man said 'sick'. Being in North America for a few weeks must be rubbing off on him.
Good event, good problems, even BIFF style M4.
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I don't understand standard? M4 had no pockets on it at all, nor did anyone campus 360?
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Dense, it did, check the video if it is still up.
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Eh? Sorry I must be losing it! I thought it went to a big half ball volume with another above this then out to black triangular volume to match long crimp to little volume tag into crimp then top :shrug:
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Eh? Sorry I must be losing it! I thought it went to a big half ball volume with another above this then out to black triangular volume to match long crimp to little volume tag into crimp then top :shrug:
That was m4 in the semi. We're talking about the final.
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I noticed the commentator made reference to shouty and less shouty man! Coverage was OK, the stream cutting out a couple of times was annoying though.
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problems didnt look great, shame about puccio and anna, good to see shauna getting back into the swing of things.
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Slight tangent... but...
Looking at televised sport - some of the most successful 'franchises' are those that have very tight control over the TV/Media output. For example, the Premier League -at every ground the TV feed (they are ALL televised) is generated by the same company at all grounds, given the same branding and same (high) production values. The same occurs with F1 too... (and I believe the World Cup now, dare I mention FIFA..). In both sports in earlier times, the TV was run by the host country/club etc.. and you got a much more 'variable' product quality.
In the same way - it would seem to make sense for the organisation that runs these things (god knows what its called) to use the same camera operators, lighting crew, sound people, commentators (it seems to do this shouty man!) - graphics, streaming company etc. etc. etc... They may even generate a decent enough (consistent enough) product to sell to some late night TV channel ;)
Of course they may well be doing the above - but I've just not realised! (in which case do it better!).
I think the format of the semi's and finals works pretty well as a TV experience btw... just that its a bit shonkily done at times...
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I watched a bit of the start. Alex Johnson basically said Puccio's injury was a consequence of starving herself!
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Stayed up to watch the final.
Absolutely sick climbing. Dimitry just trying to static EVERYTHING is a must-watch as always. Coxsey did well and is looking on form, she should have a good season.
Amazed Alex Johnson pretty much accused Puccio of starving herself (nutrition problems = torn acl) when in fact it seems she had a really awkward fall on less than adequate warm-up mats. :worms:
The americans seem to be doing really well this year, the Nathaniel guy is a bit of a wad, and Mascaranas(sp) went into beast-mode in the final.
Highlight of the night: the look on Hojers face when he came out to do M4. That was some super-saiyan shit right there! :strongbench:
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Just because something is likely to be true, it doesn't always bear saying
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Pooch's update on her injury: https://instagram.com/p/3nhVKNGV6A/ (https://instagram.com/p/3nhVKNGV6A/)
She said last night that she basically landed in the splits. Imagine getting this wrong:
(http://media-2.web.britannica.com/eb-media/35/101935-004-4BE0B0B6.jpg)
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Perhaps someone can enlighten me on this topic, but can malnutrition really increase the chance of injuring your acl when you fall in a bad position? I really can't see how, and thought the fact that Johnson brought it up to be pretty pointless and just dickish. On another note I was very sad when Dmitry fell on m3, otherwise he climbed like a beast. His beta on m2 was quite fun to watch. Was anyone else not able to watch his top of m4? It cuts out just as he starts and holds the swing on a 2 finger pocket with one arm, and comes back just as he walks off. Bloody depressing. I really hope the guy gets back in his swing with competing, or starts beasting outside, that would be a sight to see. His style is just so sick.
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Yeah was pretty shocked when she brought up pooches weight.
Anyway, good comp overall I thought, only downsides score updating and the stream dropping out a few times. (plus the injuries, but that's hardly the ifsc's fault) setting spot on, good looking problems with multiple solutions, split field well at all stages, and all got done I think bar F4 in the final?
Shame Akiyo just has to not fuck up to take the overall now, though I do think the gap between the best girls and the pack has narrowed.
Now why isn't there a Japan round?
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Perhaps someone can enlighten me on this topic, but can malnutrition really increase the chance of injuring your acl when you fall in a bad position?
Yes, being in a catabolic state increases risk of injuries. This has been well known for, oh, a few hundred years at least. There is no way to know if someone is in a catabolic state without monitoring them closely so that's one reason it's tasteless to speculate.
Of course injuries can happen to anyone, sometimes shit just happens: there is a tendency among some to believe that “life is fair” and that (other) people are somehow to be blamed for their misfortunes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Just-world_hypothesis
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Do the lack of nutrients weaken the ligaments or something, making it more likely for a bad fall to go wrong? Interesting stuff.
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As far as I recall the main problem with being in a catabolic state (which can happen due to overtraining or calorie deficiency etc) is that tendon, muscle, and ligaments heal slower after overload and get progressively weaker.
Malnutrition in the sense of not getting enough minerals and vitamins is probably quite rare for athletes.
And of course, severe malnutrition leads to osteoporosis. That's happened to a climber I know. Broke her leg in several places from a one metre fall...
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Apologies Standard and Pako! Someone said the final was at 11.30 gmt so I presumed it was at 11.30 gmt and not bloody 23.30!!! I realised the final must have already happened when going past pets r us on the way to the station about 5 mins after posting! Obviously I didn't want to look at the thread again til I watched it in case someone gave away the winners.
Final was good, they really need to sort the semi's out in terms of camera angles and room to film the whole problem tho. Johnson is actually growing on me as a commentator since she was quite informed and didn't mention her dog every few sentences like on previous occasions.
I also think she had a point re malnutrition, obviously pot and kettle but a point nonetheless.
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Anyone know what happened to Anna?
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I don't know whether the American young guns are attending the remaining WC events (suspect not), but I reckon Puccio should consider donating her crowd funded cash to get them to some more events - if possible.
As for the injury thing - malnourishment speculation on air was well below the belt, IMO.
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I don't know how Alex giving away her crowd funding would sit legally? Personally if I donated money to her I'd want her to use it, say maybe nx yr, and would want my money back if she donated it to others. I don't know how that would sit either?
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Having said that, she's probably spending it all on the op/rehab. If I were in her shoes I'd poll my funders and give in proportion to those wishing to see it donated. I'm guessing most of her funders are Septics, and thus are beside themselves with the future (and current) prospects of their new wads. Actually, if I were Alex I'd probably spend it all on high quality drugs, and treat myself to a footless 8A in a month or two.
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I thought the setting was pretty spot on all the way through, especially in the semis.
Finals was good fun, but as usual the semis are incomprehensible, I don't know if it's even possible to find a format for them that works as a TV spectator sport.
Good to see Mascarenas do well, she looked good last year and I tipped her for a podium place in Vail.
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The semis are difficult, but having accurate real time scores up should be simple enough and would make things loads easier to follow, sadly it doesn't seem to be that easy judging from the last two comps...
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/c5480776b7d9ca8873c57db76d7eb077.jpg)
Shauna showing Adam who's boss...
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Nathaniel Coleman said that he would definitely compete at the World Championships in Munich, and is considering buying tickets for Asia. The guy doesn't have any sponsorships yet, hopefully that will change soon.
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The semis are difficult, but having accurate real time scores up should be simple enough and would make things loads easier to follow, sadly it doesn't seem to be that easy judging from the last two comps...
Quite. As a climber I find competition bouldering great to watch, but if the IFSC can't get its act together to the minimal degree of being able to display up to date scores and rankings on the live feed, then they have no chance of ever being anything other than a tiny niche sport watched by people who are already enthusiasts.
IFSC rules are actually possible to comprehend, unlike the ABS Nationals. So how hard can it be?
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Ha, that's an awesome pic of Shauna and Ondra :lol:
Ondra seems on intermittent form at the moment, making daft mistakes and not reading problems well. Hope he manages to sort it out as he's looking slick when he sorts it out.
I'd also love to see a replay of the Dmitry machine doing M4
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Hopefully OnBouldering or Udini will have the footage.
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Nathaniel Coleman said that he would definitely compete at the World Championships in Munich, and is considering buying tickets for Asia. The guy doesn't have any sponsorships yet, hopefully that will change soon.
I hope so he has a good style strong!
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Internet connection issues aside - good comp overall I thought.
Enjoyed AJ's co-commentary - interesting take on Pooch's injury, whether it was appropriate or not, thought it was worth putting out there.
Less Shouty One was better - still got some basics wrong about the climbing, but was all over any technical AV discussion...
Would've liked to see more of the GoPro shots as they bothered to put them in - but things seemed quite rushed.
Just a shame so many key moments were missed due to the data drop-out (even on the non-live videos) - not IFSC's fault, but still.
Pooch and Anna out, and Jule not qualifying - Shauna's disappointing first round might not be so much of an issue.
Rule question - on F4 where there was such a massive rest point, are there any rules to say how long you can sit there for?
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Which injuries did Anna and GGM suffer?
Alex Johnson's commentary respect Pooch's injury was a bit lame indeed. When you can't say anything good, it's best to say nothing at all.
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From GuiGui's fb - 'Broken something in my finger in the first problem of the semi and so I was not able to try hard... That mean I will not compete at the next stages of the world cups...'
The commentators said that Anna got an unspecified finger injury as well. This wc series will likely be one of new names.
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Alex Johnson's commentary respect Pooch's injury was a bit lame indeed. When you can't say anything good, it's best to say nothing at all.
I've thought about this and disagree. The question is - what was her motivation to speak out? Sour grapes? Or does she see this issue as being increasingly widespread? I always get the impression that AJ is involved in youth coaching, and she comes across as very 'maternal'. Perhaps she's genuinely worried about the message being sent to young climbers by hardcore weight loss? So, whilst her comments were a bit fumbling and perhaps not well thought out (are we talking about simple malnutrition, or anorexia/bulimia?), personally I think she was brave to publicly say something about Pooch's current physical state. I've heard a few second-hand stories in relation to what some of the top comp climbers eat (or don't), with these 16 and 17 year olds now getting into finals and winning, we don't exactly want to cultivate a culture where malnourishment is seen as the norm.
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I had thought about that also, and I understand what you mean.
Simply, one could avoid the name and shame attitude and maybe let at least some time pass by before addressing the issue. This all seemed a very sudden hit. No classy at all.
Bear in mind, I have a terrible opinion on what Pooch's been doing to herself as of late.
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247.TV tweeted yesterday "#ifscwc Just spoke to Anna at Denver Airport and she popped her hand trying to reach the pink hold on F2. She won't do China so Munich next!"
I presume they mean the pink hold on the blue volume that she was dynoing for. Unfortunately the replay doesn't show her sending the problem.
Hopefully Munich will be a thrilling finale with Anna and Megan back in the mix and without the stamina sapping altitude.
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I spoke with Nathaniel yesterday and he is almost certainly going to be in China.
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That's great news! Good to see a new kid on the block, especially since senior US male climbers haven't had much success since Sharma quit competing.
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Christopher says hi Graeme
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Which one?
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Unofficially, Anna has done her A4 pulley.
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Really enjoyed the whole set up and aside from her Pooch comments, I thought Alex dealt with the less shouty one pretty well. I think his problem is, he's been commentating on comps for an while and therefore thinks he knows what he's talking about but has no concept of the fact that climbing in a comp is different to just climbing indoors and then that climbing indoors is completely different to climbing outdoors! I thought this when he was going on about Ondra having weak shoulders or some shit - AJ did well to try and put some context in without making him sound like a tit...
Agree with whoever it was that said they could do with sorting the scoring out.
Also, it's great to have Graeme on here...
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Why is commenting on Pooch's weight not fair comment? We've been talking about climbers' weight for years:
* http://www.grimper.com/news-charlotte-durif-revient-toute-experience-competitrice-debut-circuit-coupe-monde-difficulte-2014
* http://eveningsends.com/climbing/climbers-who-cheat/
For a while, the website 8a.nu took a stand on the issue by supposedly not reporting any ascents done by climbers with a BMI under 17 (a number the site computed using the height and weight the climber himself had entered into his online profile).
I believe the Austrian climbing team has a limit to be on the team of a BMI of 17 too.
So, just restricting ourselves to climbing, and not to anything else - no discussion of body fat percentages and general health, not even bothering to talk about being a role model to young girls, parallels with modelling industry, etc. etc. - the weight of climbers is a valid topic.
Right?
So, given that - why is Puccio's weight - which looks lower than average - NOT a valid topic?
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I don't think anyone was saying that it isn't a valid topic of discussion. It's just that immediately ascribing her injury to being underweight, without anything to back it up and when it's already a sensitive issue, is a bit crass.
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I thought this when he was going on about Ondra having weak shoulders or some shit - AJ did well to try and put some context in without making him sound like a tit...
I don't think he was completely off the mark. Ondra often struggles noticeably on the more board-style problems (eg M4). Clearly, he's not weak by normal standards, but compared to Jan and Dmmitrii those problem don't suit him.
I thought there was a great mix of competitors in male finals, mainly because there were such contrasting superpowers on display. Ondra - brilliant with heels, super flexible and good reach. Dmmitrii - lock off beast. Jan - bouncing giant and volume crusher. Sean - Mr smooth. Nathaniel - new kid on the block, but looks like he's got serious campus power.
Problems looked great in general, bar M4 which was a bit of a let down. Far too easy for those guys. I'm sure it's much harder to find the line between impossible and too easy on basic stuff, where sequence finding and foot slips don't help separate the climbers.
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Maybe the whole underweight factor may have had a hand to play in Pooch's injury - but no one knows and it was a bit cockish to bring it up on the live stream the day the injury happened. Bit too soon.
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I'm assuming the people commenting on the issue of Puccio's weight are aware of the podcast interview in which she discusses in some detail her recent weight loss:
Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it
How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic
What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
Lots more – she’s very honest and open
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/?portfolioID=3838
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Nathaniel - new kid on the block, but looks like he's got serious campus power.
How can you say that when he match at his wrist on the second pocket....
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;D
Because this final move proved too big for some people to do with a foot on...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgKEKM2kdig&t=32m50s
Jan also mentioned in the interview that him and Nathaniel were probably the strongest of the finalists at that type of climbing.
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I'm assuming the people commenting on the issue of Puccio's weight are aware of the podcast interview in which she discusses in some detail her recent weight loss:
Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it
How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic
What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
Lots more – she’s very honest and open
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/?portfolioID=3838
I started to listen to it. I had to stop because I DON'T WANT TO BUY YOUR FUCKING CHALK PRODUCT THAT YOU'RE BANGING ON ABOUT FOR FUCKS SAKE.
But, in order to be civic minded, I listened to it more, just for you.
Minute 55 in the epic tale, that's where it's at. Approximately.
* 12% body fat
* BMI is in the middle
At about 58 minutes, to be fair the interviewer asks a key question - have your periods stopped. She says "yes"-ish. But puts this down to contraception, not weight loss, which is actually a reasonable answer. Later she says she's aiming to get down a bit to 116lbs or so - a bit less than she is now.
This would put her BMI at about 20. BUPA says this is OK. Swimming world says it's underweight. Neither is under the limit of 17, so that puts that to bed.
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I thought this when he was going on about Ondra having weak shoulders or some shit - AJ did well to try and put some context in without making him sound like a tit...
I don't think he was completely off the mark. Ondra often struggles noticeably on the more board-style problems (eg M4). Clearly, he's not weak by normal standards, but compared to Jan and Dmmitrii those problem don't suit him.
I thought there was a great mix of competitors in male finals, mainly because there were such contrasting superpowers on display. Ondra - brilliant with heels, super flexible and good reach. Dmmitrii - lock off beast. Jan - bouncing giant and volume crusher. Sean - Mr smooth. Nathaniel - new kid on the block, but looks like he's got serious campus power.
Problems looked great in general, bar M4 which was a bit of a let down. Far too easy for those guys. I'm sure it's much harder to find the line between impossible and too easy on basic stuff, where sequence finding and foot slips don't help separate the climbers.
I thought he was miles off, since Jan also struggled on the same move of the same problem weak shoulders likely wasn't the reason for failure. More to the point, I can forgive Less Shouty One's lack of nuanced climbing insight, but he should be competent enough to keep us up to date with the scores, and to remember whether such and such had just flashed something, or did it 2nd go. He seems to fail quite a bit with this stuff.
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I thought he was miles off, since Jan also struggled on the same move of the same problem weak shoulders likely wasn't the reason for failure.
Yeah, on that particular problem it was the wrong analysis. I was giving him credit for spotting that Ondra has weaknesses, even if he didn't pick the right moment to talk about it, or understand that it's more to do with foot-off climbing than shoulder strength. But that's where the AJ as the expert climber could have added some detail to the discussion, rather than just saying Ondra's great at everything.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/c5480776b7d9ca8873c57db76d7eb077.jpg)
Shauna showing Adam who's boss...
Revenge for Ondra running running over to shout "I'm the best and you suck!"
He may not have actually said that, but... :lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69YVimEOX3I&t=80m10s
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I agree with pretty much all the positive comments posted above (including understanding why AJ might be raising the nutrition (not just "weight" IIRC) issue), and of course the complaint about the internet connection dropping at annoying moments.
I was a bit surprised that Ondra didn't crush the more techy problems as easily as hoped. Megan was super-impressive.
F2 was great, really cool to see so many different ways. Females seemed to get burlier problems in general aside from that? F4 looked like a good finish for it's sheer difficulty. M3 and M4 maybe should have been swapped for better excitement value, M4 was fun by M3 clearly had more tension.
A good round I thought.
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I was a bit surprised that Ondra didn't crush the more techy problems as easily as hoped. Megan was super-impressive.
"Indoor Bouldering" is to "Outdoor Bouldering" as "Archery club meet" is to " Hunting Grizzly bears with a home-bow"...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I'm assuming the people commenting on the issue of Puccio's weight are aware of the podcast interview in which she discusses in some detail her recent weight loss:
Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it
How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic
What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
Lots more – she’s very honest and open
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/?portfolioID=3838
I started to listen to it. I had to stop because I DON'T WANT TO BUY YOUR FUCKING CHALK PRODUCT THAT YOU'RE BANGING ON ABOUT FOR FUCKS SAKE.
But, in order to be civic minded, I listened to it more, just for you.
Minute 55 in the epic tale, that's where it's at. Approximately.
* 12% body fat
* BMI is in the middle
At about 58 minutes, to be fair the interviewer asks a key question - have your periods stopped. She says "yes"-ish. But puts this down to contraception, not weight loss, which is actually a reasonable answer. Later she says she's aiming to get down a bit to 116lbs or so - a bit less than she is now.
This would put her BMI at about 20. BUPA says this is OK. Swimming world says it's underweight. Neither is under the limit of 17, so that puts that to bed.
There was no need to listen just for me Lund - 'just to be (even) more well-informed than if you hadn't listened' seems like a perfectly good enough reason on its own :)
off topic - and that chalk does sound pretty interesting, Stu L off of Malham was saying it makes a difference. So he should be sending 9a soon..
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The friction labs stuff is a lot better than bog standard chalk Pete. You'll have to pop in the shop and see for yourself! I can sort you out with a thimble full of the test bag as it's a bit pricey! ;)
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Haha bro-deal on a thimble of chalk sample yes! I'll reserve it for the hardest move on Made in Mascun next week ;D
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Back in the day we used to go to the chemist and buy Light Magnesium Carbonate, which I (naively?) assume was what it said on the tin, i.e. pure magnesium carbonate.
So when did people start adulterating it with calcium carbonate and other cheap non-functional crap, such that getting real, pure magnesium carbonate (again?) is a big deal? And what's to stop me just going back to the chemist instead of to the climbing shop?
Slightly less :off:, didn't Pooch say in the podcast that she lost weight by hiking for two and half hours a day to get to & from boulders high up in the mountains, and slightly cutting down on sugary crap? Perhaps I'm naive (again), but it didn't sound to me like she was entirely lying.
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Slightly less :off:, didn't Pooch say in the podcast that she lost weight by hiking for two and half hours a day to get to & from boulders high up in the mountains, and slightly cutting down on sugary crap? Perhaps I'm naive (again), but it didn't sound to me like she was entirely lying.
i don't think weight loss is an issue of "how" but rather of "how much" and "how long".
-what body composition (weight, muscke and fat%) is the healtiest for a climber? (both in terms in terms of general health and of overtraining/injury issues)
-what body composition is the most performance effective for a specific climber and climbing goal?
-do the two above differ? What if they do? Is a temporary compromise possible? When does it become dangerous, ie too much time too far below an healthy weight?
etc...
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I think for me what was tasteless about AJ commenting on Puccio's weight or lack of contributing to the injury was she had no idea what kind of fall led to the injury, and also saying it live on air to an audience of tens or hundreds of thousands. If someone had said that to me right after a major injury to say I would be pissed is a huge understatement.
P.s semis were shit. I got banned from the youtube comment chat for swearing at how unprofessional the camerawork, streaming, commentary was. ha ha
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Hundreds of thousands? You were watching the climbing weren't you and not eastenders?
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P.s semis were shit. I got banned from the youtube comment chat for swearing at how unprofessional the camerawork, streaming, commentary was. ha ha
The commentator wibbling on about moderating the chatroom struck me as a prime example of unprofessionalism. How is that supposed to be interesting or informative for the viewing public?
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P.s semis were shit. I got banned from the youtube comment chat for swearing at how unprofessional the camerawork, streaming, commentary was. ha ha
The commentator wibbling on about moderating the chatroom struck me as a prime example of unprofessionalism. How is that supposed to be interesting or informative for the viewing public?
Yeah it was bloody stupid. The only thing that could be considered rude in the chatroom was complaining that Ondra screamed too much on M3 - not entirely unwarranted in my opinion.
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I think for me what was tasteless about AJ commenting on Puccio's weight or lack of contributing to the injury was she had no idea what kind of fall led to the injury, and also saying it live on air to an audience of tens or hundreds of thousands. If someone had said that to me right after a major injury to say I would be pissed is a huge understatement.
SPOT. ON.
You don't bust your acl because you've been dieting! It may be a contributing factor - but unless you have access to Alex's diet records and probably her blood chemistry you are certainly not in a position to say - or judge.
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Why not? She used to look good now she looks like a ripped bag of bones
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<sarcasm>Ah yes, because the purpose of WORLD CLASS female boulderers is to look good. They should definitely do this at the expense of climbing V14.</sarcasm>
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Alex is a friend, she doesn't look as healthy as she did and she could climb v14 before all the conditioning, she just didn't.
No sarcasm.
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Fair enough. I agree with the health concerns, and also that she was monster strong before she lost weight, but it seems like a lot of the criticism she's taking is based on the way she looks. It justs irks me a bit that she's taking way more abuse than someone like Patxi did when he was a muscular skeleton due only to her gender. Apologies if I took your remark in a way it wasn't intended. :icon_beerchug:
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You don't need to apologise to me I'm a healthy 11 1/2 stone male who's never done anything.
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You don't need to apologise to me I'm a healthy 11 1/2 stone male who's never done anything.
That's ok, we still love you.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Lots of people are prepared to look shit to be the best in the world. Look at the top riders in cycling it's not a good look.
You wouldn't want arms like Wiggins or Froome.
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Being a persistent and confirmed World Clock Fail Bellend, can anyone tell me what time(s) semis and finals are this weekend please? :wave:
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So DYOR (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1581) suggests (http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/china/chongqing) that the semis will be on live at 4.30pm Sunday. Does this sound right?
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No, I think you've got it the wrong way around.
They are 7 hours ahead of us.
So UK time for semis is 02:30 and finals at 10:00 on Sunday.
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Being a persistent and confirmed World Clock Fail Bellend
See?
Thanks :)
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You don't need to apologise to me I'm a healthy 11 1/2 stone male who's never done anything.
That's ok, we still love you.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Speak for yourself!
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According to McColl's facebook he's not going to do the rounds after china due to “scheduling conflicts” (=IFSC is nice and all, but Ninja Warrior brings food to the table?). He's doing the lead comps though....
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Yeah but everyone thinks he's a wanker ............................................... that I know anyway.
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That chinese commentator was quite good. Sad days about Dmitry, but Jan was a champ.
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Finals start in 15mins, link looking like it might be pretty much unwatchable though
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Holy fuck the finals stream is abysmal.
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completely unwatchable :chair:
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Replay it is then, might go climbing
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Quality of the stream absolutely ruined the finals. The semi's were at least watchable.
A real shame as there was some really decent climbing. Unfortunately the actual stream itself was shit, often heavily pixellated, lagging and skipping out whole 10-15 second sections. Judging was pretty poor, I think 2 climbers had to be brought back to climb M1 as they only realised they hadn't 'matched' the start after they had topped the problem and walked off! Likewise some weird problem when Shauna was climbing F2. Camerawork was also pretty dreadful. Multiple times a climber was just about to flash the problem, or have a succesful attempt, and the camera would zoom in to someone on the starting moves of another climb. Sad to say but I think the finals are actually getting worse over time!?! :furious:
Surely there is enough money in climbing for the IFSC to stage a professional event with good camerawork, commentary and tech support!? If I was 'joe public' I would have switched off in the first 5 minutes.
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:agree: :rtfm: :spank: :chair: :wall:
Replay is fucked too. Pity as the problems looked entertaining.
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Replay is fucked too
Balls. Had watched the semis up to the footage of Shauna on F2 not being great but was quite looking forward to seeing the final and wowseanmccallwow winning...
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It's looking like a walk in the park to Noguchi this year. Hope shauna can keep picking it up and make a good challenge for 2nd (especially with stohr and puccio out).
The men's has been well entertaining too and nice to see Hori back crushing again.
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Bit of a mixed bag...
Yays:
The routes looked good, nice split of results
M1/F1 & M2/F2 next to each other so no need for split screen or camera switching. More like this please
Nays:
Streaming (I blame China)
Lack of scoreboard
The commentator, language barriers aside, was ok. A couple of cringe moments ("he looks like a girl!" For Dimitri's hair...).
No Jule? Shame Shauna doesn't seem to be on tip top form. Looks strong but seems to not be reading routes as well as last year. Akiyo has this wrapped up really.
Adam doesn't look to be the threat many thought he would be, Jan had a shocker, his height a disadvantage this round?
Men's is pretty wide open...
I was chatting with the Mrs and we both agreed that this year the comps just aren't quite as compelling to watch. Last season we were glued to the screens, this time we're wandering in and out, reading books, checking Facebook... Not sure why this is though; the comps have been close and we'll set, Shauna's providing some home interest... There were technical issues last year, but they grate more this time round. Might just be the commentary which doesn't quite add to the psyche.
Appreciate this is just criticism, rather than constructive crit but wondered if we were alone in this?
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No it's fuckin shit. If it's not sorted itself out this will be the last yr I watch it
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I was chatting with the Mrs and we both agreed that this year the comps just aren't quite as compelling to watch. Last season we were glued to the screens, this time we're wandering in and out, reading books, checking Facebook... Not sure why this is though; the comps have been close and we'll set, Shauna's providing some home interest... There were technical issues last year, but they grate more this time round. Might just be the commentary which doesn't quite add to the psyche.
Appreciate this is just criticism, rather than constructive crit but wondered if we were alone in this?
Same here! It's weird as the mens comp seems more open this year which should make it more watchable. Also, I appreciate there are internet issues in China but the coverage was just awful and I don't understand why they upload the unwatchable footage rather than record it and put up a watchable version after the event...
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I remember in the pre-streaming days having to wait a couple of days for the IFSC peeps to get back to europe from chinese comps to upload the video. I think the video uploads to youtube for posterity as it streams (?) so any breaks/issues in the stream are reflected by skipping and horrible pixelation in replay later. I'm hoping that when they get back they'll be able to put up a good one, I expect it'd have to wait till after next weekend anyway. I'm assuming that chinas internet is too inconsistent to try and upload 3+ hours of hi(ish) def video.
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On the plus side the routes looked quite nice for all. Semis problems were a bit fucked with about 15 people sending everything, but finals were good. I really hope that the Russian team can regain their past glory :(
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No it's fuckin shit. If it's not sorted itself out this will be the last yr I watch it
+1
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Was just reading on the OnBouldering fb how they aren't allowed by the IFSC to film semis or finals this year. Fucking rubbish. The videos that OnBouldering make are miles ahead of the official ifsc videos, yet the IFSC forces us to watch their shitty official videos? I mean if you can't make the stream good, just be decent and let someone who knows what they are doing do it. pure rubbish
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This is a reuploaded and hopefully watchable replay of the finals, climbing starts at 38 minutes in: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBuvqmuagR4
Fingers crossed that the next comp in Haiyang is better!
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Was just reading on the OnBouldering fb how they aren't allowed by the IFSC to film semis or finals this year.
Whereabouts did you see that? I couldn't find it and am interested in the reasons why.
I don't watch the qualifiers or semis, and find OnBouldering's highlights videos entertaining and complimentary to the whole process. They keep up my interest levels and they provide exposure to climbers who don't make finals that I wouldn't otherwise see. It's not as if they're offering a competing live stream or (as far as I'm aware) using official IFSC footage.
I wonder if the same restrictions apply to Udo Neumann?
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I wonder if the same restrictions apply to Udo Neumann?
They should do really, as the only reason that I think of that makes sense is that they are protecting their media rights, which is what any sporting event promoter should be doing.
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Barring any unexpected lower order crushing, it looks like Leah made semis! Akiyo flashed everything bar F3 and Shauna through in second with SBC qualifying too...
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From those results - Female quali's must've been nails! 2 tops for a spot
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Which just goes to show how much of a beast Akiyo is!
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If you go on the OnBouldering facebook page you can see posts detailing it on the left hand side where people post to the page, you just have to click show more comments on the first post.
Dmitry looks to be going well in qualis, Jan did his classic qualify super low, who knows how he will go this time. Apparently it is humid and hot there, not too nice. Also, if the IFSC did a good job at filming their shit, then it would be perfectly logical to not let others film. It's understandable that it is difficult to get good filming on a low budget, but at least let others get good footage for us until the IFSC gets more funds and can pay for good footage. Or maybe the IFSC could pay OnBouldering to film, I mean the guy travels around the whole world just to film world cups...
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2 wks in china, 2 wks in North America, and one in Europe doesn't sound as impressive as traveling the whole world ;)
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Leah didn't make the semis after all :no: Jan flashed everything :strongbench:
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Fatneck I think you might be watching Chongqing.
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You are indeed correct Pako. :slap: Damn these fat fingers...
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2 wks in china, 2 wks in North America, and one in Europe doesn't sound as impressive as traveling the whole world ;)
Sounds better then sitting at a desk in an office block in Cheadle Heath though....
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Ain't that the truth, also beats woodseats where it either rains or is boiling!
Who won fatneck? McColl was looking strong, and tiny ;)
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Pako - I look at fb on mobile, so there is no left side for me. Perhaps that's why I can't see them.
With regards to filming, I had a look at the IFSC Camera Crew Code of Conduct for accredited media and it states:• ...Web TVs will be allowed to film interviews, press conferences, venues, and to access the mixed zone right after the Award Ceremony. No footage from the competition shall be allowed.
• If TVs and Web TVs want to have footage from the competition, they will negotiate license fees with the IFSC at least 7 days prior to the event.
• If TVs and Web TVs film and/or live broadcast IFSC events without the prior authorization, the IFSC will require license fees and/or claim for the monetization of the content
So perhaps it's simple economics and OnBouldering isn't filming semi's and finals due to cost? I completely understand the IFSC protecting it's product and wanting to make money out of it, but they risk losing an audience or perhaps not gaining an audience from a nicely put together highlights package. The ECB got lots of money after 2005 Ashes by selling the TV rights to Sky but lost exposure.
Eddie Fowke has posted on fb that "there will be no live stream of semi's and finals tomorrow due to ongoing connectivity issues".
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Provided they don't take the piss with what they are asking, it shouldn't be an issue? Or if they start setting up "exclusive rights" deals.
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Here is the post from the OnBouldering fb page http://i.imgur.com/OsWgdsH.png
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Unless the results on the IFSC page haven't properly updated, it looks like the victors at Haiyang were Jongwon Chon for the men, definitely a rising star, and none other than Petra Klinger for the women, who beat Akiyo by one attempt. Her previous best result was 6th in 2011, so definitely interesting. Men's finals must have been nails, only Jongwon and Rustam got 2 tops, even Ondra and Hojer only got 1 top. Setting seems to have been a bit suspect... Good on Rustam for returning to form though, and for Jongwon for improving so much. Miho Nonaka also seems to be doing very well, she is strong as too, I remember in Laval she was just one arming slopers left and right.
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Apparently Minori Nakano, who came 6th in finals, was also the only one to get more than 2 bonuses (3), while still not managing to top anything. bloody fascinating or am I too tired
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVVeBgVJ0VQ
Felt sorry for Nakano who actually did a problem but fckd-up the match something stupid. He also fell on the very last move of one and did well on the rest. The best effort for last place in the final I ever saw. A hair's breadth from the podium.
Nice looking problems, exciting final. Pity about the conditions, but what can you do, climbing is an outdoor sport.
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Problems were quite good, they did a good job at highlighting the various strengths and weaknesses of the climbers, with Rustam being the only one to top M3 being a nice example of that.
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Hugely enjoyed that: Leah did a great job on the commentary, Melissa's bivouac epic on F3 etc.
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Me too! Problems looked good, and I'd prefer them to be on the difficult side. Melissa's try on problrm 3 was one of the highlights for me.
Shows how much having someone commentating who knows the sport improves watchability.
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I enjoyed that final so much!
Total world of difference to the previous comp. Great commentary, it definitely helps having experienced people who know what they are talking about. The problems were really well set and separated the crowd nicely. Very surprised by how poorly Hojer and Ondra did, they aren't having a great run of form recently it seems?. Very nicely climbed by Shauna, any other comp she would have had gold, the women were crushing!
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Great commentary, it definitely helps having experienced people who know what they are talking about.
:agree:
The guy who usually does the MCing and German language live commentary in Munich runs a bouldering wall and has been Bavarian state champion a couple of times, and it does make a difference.
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Phew, a return to form! Much better round; good commentary, with useful observations and some banter too, good problems, good camera work.
Shame it's come so late in the season, but nice to know when things to work, it's still a great sport to watch.
Jan and Adam having a bit of a shocker, Petra Klinger fulfilling dark horse duties - and came down to last problem for ladies.
Really interesting to see the men in particular get stuck on completely different parts of different problems. Rustrum had a 'mare on M2, Alban M3, Jan M4.
Would've been good to see M4 get done to see how it was set.
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Felt sorry for Nakano who actually did a problem but fckd-up the match something stupid.
I found that a bit odd, I've seen matches in the past exactly the same as that where the hold is tapped and the ascent been given.
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It isn't supposed to be though.
You are supposed to hold the hold with 2 hands until the judge holds up the "OK" sign. Anybody that doesn't do this is basically an amateur.
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Really enjoyable, Leah made a great commentator.
Did anyone else notice Rustam and Petra walking out together at one point and how much bigger Petra was :o Brilliant performance.
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Nakano just made an error - given he's been in many qualis, semis and some finals - he knows the rules. Harsh, but possibly fair?
I was trying to work out, when Miho was jamming on F4 whether that counted as the bonus? The top of her hand was on the bonus hold, the bottom not... Irrelevant as she got past it, but was wondering.
More interesting was Akiyo using a volume on a different problem. The fact she was in such a comfortable position she could check mid-move whether it was in was just ridiculous.
It's a shame we have to rely on Brits/Americans not making a Semi or a Final to get good commentary - must be some ex-competitors who would be happy to commentate? Enjoyed Leah's commentary, but would have preferred to have her in the final. What's Killian doing? ;)
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Watching this yesterday and thought it was great, much helped by the commentary. Who was the male commentator, Josh ?
I was surprised to see Ondra struggling, I thought that pop to the crimp on 3 would have been right up his street. It must have been a truly miserable hold. He deserved at least the bonus on 4 as well, he was making much better progress than anyone else.
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Ondra: human after all...? Nah... he'll soon find some 8C to flash
Josh was good as a commentator, but it was slightly irritating that he had no idea how the other comps played out this year.
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Pako – Thanks for that picture and clarifying the whole IFSC licensing and no highlights situation. If I could wad you, I would.
Another good WC this weekend, some fantastic battling on display, and it sets up Munich nicely with the men’s overall title being so open. I would not have predicted Jongwon Chon to be leading the rankings by this point. He looked diamond crushingly strong but I don’t know if he’s also a lot better at coping with heat and humidity.
Akiyo bags a well-deserved fourth overall title, but can Shauna finish above Miho and grab second or will a prolonged purple patch pinch places for Petra?
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Billy Ridal (junior category) finished 6th this weekend in his first EYC event in Langenfeld.
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Exactly what everyone else said about this last one: Good problems, good footage, good thrills and spills, good commentary, even the drama was good and fair. Pity about the sun on slopey problems, more shade and a couple of big fans would have been good. Melissa on F3 was epic, if F4 and F3 had been swapped it would have been the perfect end, although a pity no men came close to M4.
:punk:
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Off topic but I watched the Cham IFSC lead comp and that was very good watching. The young Slovak girl :strongbench: :strongbench:
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slovenian? only 16 but on podium twice in two events.
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I've got that nationality wrong twice in two completely seperate incidents, sorry.
Watching her in Cham was like watching an early Ondra. Sweating with excitement!
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Slovakia or Slovenia, and Sweden or Switzerland, whatever. Countries that share the same 2-3 first letters are obviously the same...
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Greece and Great Britain?
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Nah... but Britain and Brittany are obviously the same place. And by the way: United Kingdom, England, Great Britain and The British Isles are all different names for an amorphous landmass containing 1-4 bigger islands and some smaller somewhere in the Atlantic Sea, obviously. ;)
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Naturally ;D
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Cross-posting this from the BBC thread:
Finished me spreadsheet...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4TP9Sc1Esn8NElyQUY3Ql9WRlU/view?usp=sharing
Not sure if pivot tables work in Google docs (Should be able to download the original) - but you can expand country to view individuals.
I couldn't find a list of all podium places, so this is entrants by country, rather than podiums, but you can apply a filter to show (for example) only top 3 ranks by country.
Possibly of interest, total number of entrants in 2015 for Men (53) and Women (52). Previous years for both have been around 80-90. The double-China trip taking down the numbers?
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I think that Munich will change that last stat, 215 entrants. Also Innsbruck being Euro Champs rather than a WC will have changed things a fair bit.
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I'll update it after that. :)
Other "interesting" observations (If you're a bit sad like I am...) - and obviously this might change after this weekend.
USA Men; previous 3 years; 8,10,8. 2015: 4 (Woods & Traversi doing everything from '09 to '14 which I didn't realise)
Team GB: previous 3 years; 6,5,4. 2015: 1 :(
USA women - consistently high (at least 11 the last 5 years) and apparently the largest regular team despite lack of funding (and arguably success outside of Pooch).
French women - second biggest regular turnout
Taking this down to only count top 3 finishers at end of season
Men - Austria (6), Russia (5) - CZE, FRA & GER all with 2
Women - Japan (8), Austria (6), GBR (3)
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I was wondering why it felt like those numbers didn't add up.
That seems to just be a list of people that scored points.
So the Americans get a good representation because once a season they get to enter 24 competitors (or something like that) into one event and a good number of them get points.
Where as the Brits regularly have a decent sized team and often only a couple of them score points.
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I couldn't find a list of actual entrants, nor a breakdown by competition rather than season.
So yes, the Americans might be benefiting from a bit of a spray-and-pray approach in Colorado (and Vail) getting them up the ranking, whereas Japan seem to put in a consistently good turnout despite no local comps.
I was trying to decipher the IFSC world ranking scores, to see what it takes to get 1 point at the end of a season - I'm not sure if you have to make a semi-final, or just enter the quali's....
Also, just to clarify, my previous post should be Japan women: 8 - I don't just think they're cool 8)
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IFSC scoring goes down to 30th place according to this article:
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/5-ways-nathaniel-coleman-can-win-world-cup-munich
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No British men through :-(
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Have men's qualis finished?
A couple of biggish names missed out,namley Levier & Bonder
Ty out by one bonus
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Qualifications still going, but no brits still to climb. Think Dom Burns has a couple probs to go still.
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Also, 6 Iranian entries! Looks like they'll get a semi finalist too.
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How many ppl can a country enter? Seems odd that we're sending so few (3) to the biggest comp of the year, that's a cheap short flight away, when Iran (6) Argentina (5), Japan (7), France (6), USA (5) etc etc are all packing them in.
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Correction, Billy Ridal is still to climb so still a chance and total 4 entries to the mens
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Country allocation is something like 5 + anybody in the world top 10. Per sex.
Host country gets to enter loads more. It used to be 12 + world top 10.
I have no idea why we don't have a full team.
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Yikes. 117 men and 83 women. Maybe there is a point in holding comps outside Europe after all...
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Thanks J5. Yeah had guessed the host got more. Which Iranian is in the top ten then? I know Ben West is injured atm.
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Just looked it up properly:
11.4.2:
a) Any current Adult/Youth World/Continental Champion (only for the Discipline in which they are champion) at the start of the Calendar Year;
b) Any competitors ranked tenth (10th) or above on the relevant World Ranking at the start of the Calendar Year; and
c) for each Category and Discipline of the competition:
i) Where the member federation is not the host country: up to six (6) further competitors; or
ii) Where the member federation is the host country: up to eighteen (18) further competitors.
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Just quickly, and harking back to the BMC & competition climbing discussions - they've just tweeted:
"Good luck in qualifiers today GB Team members in Munich for 2015 bouldering #IFSCwc "
About 30 minutes after the qualification round has finished and no Brits made it through...
Minor point, but still, hardly finger-on-the-pulse stuff is it?
**Edit**
Oh, they'd already tweeted 5 hours earlier, they just re-posted it, presumably for the ladies.
I shall go eat a shoe/humble pie
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This is quite amusing...
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/5-ways-nathaniel-coleman-can-win-world-cup-munich
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Currently SBC has made the semi's - Melissa La Neve and Monika Retschy haven't. Leah's missed out, still 2487 climbers to go though
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Nice to see Megan Mascarenas back in for the last of the season.
I love the IFSC, I love the choice of locations, the camera work. I have no problems with the feed or the commentators. The route setting is excellent. O.K it'd be nice if up-to-date scores were shown o,n screen but hey..
However, the website is a disgrace, easily the worse site I (grudgingly) use on the net.
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Word. For live results, the app is much better.
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I looked on the app this morning and there was some network failure, don't know if that was local or not.
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I looked on the app this morning and there was some network failure, don't know if that was local or not.
I had that message too, then realised that I hadn't selected the Quali' tab.
I also agree that the IFSC's website is not the most user friendly to navigate; and when are they going to create a comprehensive searchable stats database like Cricinfo's? At the moment there is simply no easy way of knowing how many male competitors have topped at least 3 problems in a European qualifications, but then failed to reach the podium.
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Ah, That works. cheers.
Anyone have any info on the Israeli Valeri Kremer who's knocked Shauna down into 5th place? One of those dark horses?
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Tara Hayes through to semis
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Does anyone know what time the final starts? I can't make head nor tail of that website!
Graeme can you navigate your way around it? It's impossible to know what's going on
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I think 5.30 going off what various people have said on facebook.
Nice one Tara - 16th is a good start.
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Cheers Kelvin :)
The women's final positions are nuts! Who are these people? Good to see new faces.
Don't know who Sergei is either but I believe he's done quite well with the meerkats.
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Cheers Kelvin :)
* starts at 18.30 GMT+2 according to the crappiest site they could have come up with. We're obviously GMT +1 in summer, so yeah, 5.30pm.
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Get the fuck in.
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What a way to finish.
Following on from some of the commentary, I checked out next year's (provisional) bumper calendar:
- 16-17/04/16 - Meiringen (SUI)
- 23-24/04/16 - Kazo (JPN)
- 30/04/-01/05/16 - Chongqing (CHN)
- 13-15/05/16 - Navi Mumbai (IND)
- 20-21/05/16 - Tyrol (AUT)
- 04-05/06/16 - (CAN)
- 09-12/06/16 - Vail (USA)
- 12-13/08/16 - Munich (GER)
Plus the World Championships:
- 14-18/09/16 - Paris (FRA)
Seven WC's in 8 weeks! It really is going to be a battle of the fittest.
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:dance1:
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What a way to finish.
Following on from some of the commentary, I checked out next year's (provisional) bumper calendar:
- 16-17/04/16 - Meiringen (SUI)
- 23-24/04/16 - Kazo (JPN)
- 30/04/-01/05/16 - Chongqing (CHN)
- 13-15/05/16 - Navi Mumbai (IND)
- 20-21/05/16 - Tyrol (AUT)
- 04-05/06/16 - (CAN)
- 09-12/06/16 - Vail (USA)
- 12-13/08/16 - Munich (GER)
Plus the World Championships:
- 14-18/09/16 - Paris (FRA)
Seven WC's in 8 weeks! It really is going to be a battle of the fittest.
Thanks Doug. Seems a bit weird cramming them all in, esp with the big gap between Vail and Munich. Good to see Japan get a round, been needed for a couple of years. Also one less in China is a start. Hope there'll be the interest and local talent to avoid the India round being another waste of carbon and money.
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(http://onbouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/onbBlog-0197.jpg)
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Men's problems where way too hard. Either that, or the finalists where way too weak
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I initially thought that, but only M1 didn't get done. It's just Rubtsov out classed everyone.
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Men's problems where way too hard. Either that, or the finalists where way too weak
Maybe they were a tad hard, but they were nice to watch. At least all the problems but one got tops, too bad about m1 though. M1 wasn't too far from being topped either. Anyway, I thought Rubtsov had a good win, he got all the bonuses and topped two problems that no one else topped. I also thought it was very cool to see Sergei Topishko in finals, he is actually from a city in Ukraine that is under occupation by the Russian rebels.
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Two tops is not satisfying enough for me. But I agree that Rubtsov was a worthy winner
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Didn't realise about Sergii, that's crazy! I liked being able to hear Ondra screaming for stranik from the crowd! And Rubtsov was awesome on the first move of m2 that no-one else managed, doing it twice, and m3 even if he didn't top, his double dyno beta for the crux was great! Loved how many different ways that move got done!
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The mens probs were on the edge of being too hard, but were fine, just as the women's were on the edge of being too easy, but were also fine. If anything the mens was the better final as the result was in the balance right to the end, whereas shauna never looked like she needed to get out of second gear, except perhaps on the second move of F3.
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Didn't realise about Sergii, that's crazy! I liked being able to hear Ondra screaming for stranik from the crowd! And Rubtsov was awesome on the first move of m2 that no-one else managed, doing it twice, and m3 even if he didn't top, his double dyno beta for the crux was great! Loved how many different ways that move got done!
I believe Topishko is living in Kiev at the moment, but he started climbing in Lugansk (under occupation). Quite sad that the camera cut out for his send of the m2 in semis, and for Rubtsov's send of m2 in finals. Rubtsov's double clap beta was great, and the fact that he managed to do it three times was impressive. Jongwon Chon matching the crimp on m1 was also quite impressive, even if he didn't send. Also, Shauna on m4 was a bit mental when she swung out on the crimp on the volume, basically taking a one arm swing on it. great finals really, some really fun moments. on another note, it really appears that Dmitry has given up on comp climbing, several times in the semis he just gave up on problems when he was close to them, and walked away with minutes to spare. Bloody hope he goes outside, he would crush. Not to say that he is a bad comp climber, having won 15 cups, but he really does seem to have the skill set of an outdoor beast, just locking off on crimps and staticing everything seems to be his forte.
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From my armchair I also thought the men's were too hard and the women's too easy. Nobody should be winning World Cup finals with a fucked finger! I thought it was pretty soulless tbh.
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I loved it. Was captivated by both the mens and womens. I though the women's were a bit on the easy side. noy fussed about the winner flashing all 4, but looking at the difference to silver and bronze, it was very very close. It looked to me like Akiyo was going through the motions. The mens was so hard it there was no sure thing until the end. Only complaints were the missing send footage for a couple of the problems as mentioned.
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Nobody should be winning World Cup finals with a fucked finger! I thought it was pretty soulless tbh.
That's the other competitors fault though, not the problems surely? I enjoyed it, esp the mens after the first problem
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Oh yeh, I didn't mean the problems. Nah I didn't enjoy it and I was looking fwd to it :(
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I really enjoyed it! Good end to the series and looking forward to next year. Hopefully Crushtam will have sorted his hair out by then... Great effort by Shauna :2thumbsup:
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I enjoyed it overall – top result from Shauna, think Megan (and hopefully Pooch) will be key challengers next year, and hopefully the more varied venues should encourage greater participation across the board.
Does anyone know if the Mumbai round is going to be inside or outside? Could be a bit of a sweatathon.
Slight grumble about the lack of split screen – they had it for semis, so not sure why they didn’t for finals. Also on M3 & F3, the problems could both be kept in one shot, but they instead went with the close-up, focussing on one climber (or the floor…), so missed Rustram topping 3 and Shauna too, and no replays either. Shame.
In the semi’s the route-setter interview was quite interesting and possibly explains the finals. For the men, they were thinking it would be all 3 potential winners in the final, so set it extra challenging to really push them. Sadly I think they over-cooked by a fraction, though having said that Jan was having an off-day and only just scraped the finals, and other people were topping routes so they were all do-able.
Similarly they said that as the overall winner had already been decided they were going for more “spectacle”, which may be why the routes were slightly easier. This is a shame as the competitions should stand on their own merit, outside of the overall. Not saying they were too easy, but a couple more attempts would’ve been interesting. Not sure if Akiyo was just resting on her laurels or was having an off day – I still think she’d give it her all despite already being #1 – but maybe subconsciously the drive wasn’t quite there?
Overall, the season had had its ups and downs. Technically as discussed at length they’re needs to be better continuity and a set standard of broadcast across the season. I also think the choice of countries (or lack thereof) impacted the competitors who entered and thus the season overall.
The women were plagued by injury and then Jule’s retirement, the men didn’t seem to have much consistency in who made finals so there wasn’t the tight battle we saw last year.
Hopefully 2016 will be all killer no filler. Shauna, Akiyo, Pooch, Megan, Anna (I assume?), Miho and Fanny will be a really tight fight. For the men, I think a lot will come down to who actually enters the rounds. No McColl, not sure what Ondra’s plans are, Jan’s looked a bit wobbly of late, Russians seem to struggle to make it to every comp (or place consistently when they do)… Tough one to call.
Sidenote: Do you think Ondra actually trained for the WC’s? At the start he was probably the favourite, but wasn’t particularly threatening and seemed to struggle either with the setting, his skin, or the style of comp.
Thanks Graeme and the rest of your team for bringing us these comps. For all the grumbling, it’s still a great season to follow and your hard work is really appreciated!
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Mumbai will be indoors, there was a team from Mumbai in Munich checking things out and I had a few natters with them.
Re Akiyo. One of Akiyo's motivations is to always beat Miho, well Miho wasn't in the finals so maybe that dulled Akiyo's edge. Or maybe she didn't have her team mate in the finals to help her. Or maybe a bit of both.
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What a way to finish.
Following on from some of the commentary, I checked out next year's (provisional) bumper calendar:
- 16-17/04/16 - Meiringen (SUI)
- 23-24/04/16 - Kazo (JPN)
- 30/04/-01/05/16 - Chongqing (CHN)
- 13-15/05/16 - Navi Mumbai (IND)
- 20-21/05/16 - Tyrol (AUT)
- 04-05/06/16 - (CAN)
- 09-12/06/16 - Vail (USA)
- 12-13/08/16 - Munich (GER)
Seven WC's in 8 weeks! It really is going to be a battle of the fittest.
sounds a bit of a logistics nightmare.
Just getting visas sorted will be a pain. At least the UK people can ge two passports and don't need visas for europe not sure about over countries
India in may should be fun hotest time of the year and mixed with potentially some dehli belly it might not be the best competitor that wins. Will add spice to the competition
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How many discards next year? If it's not none then with the transfers and two weeks between China and India, I can see a lot of people not turning up at Dehli.
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Fuckin Delhi, you're shittin me?
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New Bombay not New Delhi, c'mon Dense, keep up
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Rules state you discard your worst score if there 6 or more WC's; so next year there's 200 more points up for grabs.
I really hope that with so many WC's, competitors participation is not limited due to funding and visa problems.
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Fuckin Delhi, you're shittin me?
They better not wear those little shorts.
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Duma put the place in my head! Damn
Christ I've got an image of puccio that I don't need in my head!
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I seriously can't see anyone (except possibly the Japanese and Koreans) bothering with the Mumbai round if there's a discard. I suppose possibly as insurance against a duff round later, or cheap points against a reduced field, but otherwise it seems a waste of time, money, and training. You could fly home after China, have three weeks at home to recover and train, come into tyrol fresh against a field that's knackered from over a month in hotels, jetlagged, and jaded. Know what I'd choose. I know I go on about this, but the ifsc really need to stop holding these comps in countries with no competitive athletes, and away from the consumer/fans. I get that the Chinese pay, but that's not a good enough reason to me. Climbing, and especially bouldering is a first world sport with no money in it, stop trying to export it to developing countries. I know it's not this simple, but here's the season I'd like to see:
Call it the world series or league, not cup, sounds too much like one offs.
6 or 7 rounds, plus the world championships.
No summer break, unless it's between the end of the series and the World Champs, which would work well.
1 in Japan, 2 in N. America, 3 in Europe. Plus the Worlds.
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Yeah, and defo one in hathersage