IFSC 2015 Thread (Read 122439 times)

GraemeA · June 06, 2015, 05:32:19 am

Quote from: Duma on June 05, 2015, 10:15:38 pm

Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.

Pooch got injured in iso, done her ACL, 3-6 months out.

Jule was 12th in her group, beaten by everyone's favourite 'she is not a real climber' climber, SBC.

Leah 11th in her group, just beaten by a Bonus, agonising to watch Leah and the rest of the Brits watching Claire Claire Buhrfiend on P5, fell 3 or 4 times before the Bonus (which would have meant Leah through) only for Claire to quite easily get the Bonus on 4th or 5th attempt.

Durbs · June 06, 2015, 06:48:29 am

Quote from: Duma on June 05, 2015, 10:15:38 pm

Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.

Broken ACL do out of the season, not just this round

Hope she has a speedy recovery

Pako · June 06, 2015, 08:39:15 am

So Jule is not in Semis? Shit luck for Puccio, she must be crushed after all her talk of winning overalls this year. Poor woman. Coleman is a beast, insane that this is only his 3rd WC.

Oldmanmatt · June 06, 2015, 08:46:18 am

Quote from: GraemeA on June 06, 2015, 05:32:19 am

Quote from: Duma on June 05, 2015, 10:15:38 pm
Onbouldering say pooch got injured warming up, won't compete.

Pooch got injured in iso, done her ACL, 3-6 months out.

Jule was 12th in her group, beaten by everyone's favourite 'she is not a real climber' climber, SBC.

Leah 11th in her group, just beaten by a Bonus, agonising to watch Leah and the rest of the Brits watching Claire Claire Buhrfiend on P5, fell 3 or 4 times before the Bonus (which would have meant Leah through) only for Claire to quite easily get the Bonus on 4th or 5th attempt.

1: Massive bummer!

2: Massive bummer (Jule) / Yes! Knew that girl was more than a "Barbie" (SBC)

3: Massive bummer!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Duma · June 06, 2015, 08:53:25 am

Tough for Barrans too, he was even closer I belive (one less attempt for his bonus' would have seen him through)

Richie Crouch · June 06, 2015, 09:19:34 am

Good to see a couple of young Americans through as well as Coleman, I.e. Shawn Rabatou and especially Megan Mascarenhas, she looked to be crushing in the last few ABS nationals I saw.

Hopefully the semis will be good an there will be another few surprise finalists.

Doylo · June 06, 2015, 11:01:26 am

Feel sorry for Pooch. ACL is nasty and painful (my sister did her's). So shit to train so hard for something then it's all over in a split second.

a dense loner · June 06, 2015, 11:25:59 am

Ffs pls don't let her commentate!!!

Baldy · June 06, 2015, 01:43:00 pm

https://instagram.com/p/3kTKBcyrg_/

Pako · June 06, 2015, 01:45:09 pm

Why can't Pooch commentate?

Moo · June 06, 2015, 01:48:48 pm

She doesn't speak english very well

a dense loner · June 06, 2015, 02:08:15 pm

it's a strange world when 216 people like the fact that she's injured and on crutches!

petejh · June 06, 2015, 02:52:46 pm

Not that into the comps but feel well sorry for Puccio after listening to her being interviewed on the trainingbeta podcast. She sounded really focused and dedicated to giving it everything for the comp season. Shitty misfortune.

tomtom · June 06, 2015, 03:10:36 pm

Quote from: petejh on June 06, 2015, 02:52:46 pm

Not that into the comps but feel well sorry for Puccio after listening to her being interviewed on the trainingbeta podcast. She sounded really focused and dedicated to giving it everything for the comp season. Shitty misfortune.

+1 like button etc..

Fiend · June 06, 2015, 09:20:56 pm

Yeah poor Pooch, harsh thing to happen after all the effort she's put in. I reckon she will come back stronger though. The 261 likes thing is obviously just a way to express sympathy/respect without needing to say anything. Maybe these sites need a "I'm with you" solidarity button or something.

Fiend · June 06, 2015, 09:24:51 pm

Finals seem to be 11:30 our time:

For those who need the hype, finalists look a bit like this:

Birds:

Megan Mascarenas
Margo Hayes
Anna Stöhr
Shauna Coxsey
Miho NONAKA
Akiyo Noguchi

Blokes:

Jason Holowach
Nathaniel Coleman
Kokoro FUJII
Jan Hojer
Adam Ondra
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov
Sean McColl

Duma · June 06, 2015, 09:35:16 pm

Good problems so far this time, splitting the field nicely unlike the too hard stuff in Toronto. Camera work good too except camera 2 being a bit unreliable. Shame the scores so slow and inaccurate to update, and the fuck up with angie Payne putting the labelling out.

a dense loner · June 06, 2015, 10:23:05 pm

That was a painful watch, poor commentary, poor camera work, poor sound, poor. Luckily the finals are always better.

Duma · June 07, 2015, 01:44:39 am

USA! USA! (stops to casually do up shoe mid problem) USA!
Shame Jan spoilt the party a bit by being so casual on M4, but still, great result for the home team.

Pako · June 07, 2015, 02:48:00 am

Those were some great problems. On a related topic, from vail, Puccio, Guigui, and Anna Stohr have gotten injured, with Puccio and Guigui out for the season. Not sure how long Ann Stohr will be gone for.

Duma · June 07, 2015, 08:34:18 am

Also levier injured.

ghisino · June 07, 2015, 09:02:21 am

Is this a record for most climbers injuried on the same wc round?

standard · June 07, 2015, 09:23:28 am

thought m4 was poor and "obvious" setting. let's set a campus 360 on pockets because... AMERICA.
In reality it was easy for the beasts and not entertaining, at least to me.

Shame Ondra couldn't do the m3 after cruising m2, which no one else got close on.

Pako · June 07, 2015, 09:27:55 am

I liked m4. If all the problems were like m2 I wouldn't find it as interesting. The whole point of the wc is to test all the strengths and weaknesses.

Danny · June 07, 2015, 09:34:34 am

It was entering to see Jan grinning away before M4; he knew he was going to crush it.

Also, spat my tea into my cup when less shouty man said 'sick'. Being in North America for a few weeks must be rubbing off on him.

Good event, good problems, even BIFF style M4.