UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on November 27, 2016, 07:53:48 pm
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M: ached
T: Reading - meeting...
W: See above...
Th: Thursday club with Dolly and Rob. Potentially minging conditions so chanced Curbar... good session on the bad landing boulder.. retroflashed the 7A, then did parts of Late Junction well - had a hard time working La Muse... then Haydn bounced up the hill and came up with some good high heel beta (after reaming his elbows on Bad Lip) which was promising, but I was out of skin and out of time (Baby jabs..)
Fr: bah
Sa: I HAD A PASS... potentially sketchy conditions - headed up to Blackstone.. did a couple of new problems in the beyond area (a sit and arete at about 7A) and a less fun sit at 6B ish.. retroflashed Ape Hour (which I was well chuffed with as its quite stern for 7A+) then wandered up the other end looking for the Anvil (but couldnt find it) and ended up on the Wedge. Did the 7A+ that didnt involve a heinous mantle experience and trotted off home very happy.
Su: Fly to Switzerland - work stuff. Bern is weird....
I noticed on facebook that Shark is attending a yoga class....
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10.13-11.0 No alcohol
M. AM Crag X Headed out in the filthiest weather Crag still dry! Wet streak stopped 2ins short of the slot. Got to work on top section. Cold. Pervading damp. Heel toe kept popping. Took a 30 min break and nap in car. Tried again. Still not happening. Sacked it off. Headed to the systems board. AnCap session. Crap scores. Eve Yoga
T.
W.
T. Old boys self-help club. Foundry benchmarking with Keith Paul and Ste. 70kg clothed weight. Assisted one arm hangs on Lattice edge 5sec +12kg assistance Left +10kg assistance Right. Max Moves on Lattice =60 taking 2mins44secs (opportunity for another dig TT) Then 20 mins rest then 75% Max = 45movesx1 Rest 94secs 41moves rest 77secs 25moves rest 45secs 17moves rest 34secs 13 moves rest 26secs 11moves Also did Steve's general strength tests - L Sit (5 secs) Assisted one arm with knotted rope 3xLeft 4 x Right, Pullups with shoe balanced on knees to prevent kipping (x11) and pushups x30. Collectively the scores confirmed what I already knew - I was a crap climber and a worthless human being.
F. Aching
S.Still aching. Drove out in mist and went to X for an hour – dry but glassy – hard to tell whetehr it was me or conditions but either way I wasn’t getting anywhere. Feeling glum drove back in mist and emerged in blue skies by Apparent North above once in a lifetime cloud inversion across Hope Valley. Bit warm at Remergence. Got on Blind Date but paced myself for better connies. Kept at it when others left and got lamps out and watched the stars. Did well with best go getting left hand slot and fell going from intermediate pebble to right hand slot which is similar to my previous highpoint with Dolly in February. Must have got but not held the left hand slot 5 other times. Good session felt like I was in with a chance
S. Coaxed Tommy out mid afternoon to Birchens. Bit damp when we got there - apparently it had been raining. Soloed a couple of routes then we both did Kiss Me Softy 6B which was much better than it looked. Had a play on Kiss My Atrse which was hard but suspect I was making it overly hard for myself by not using the foot block
Back and fingers much better. Starting 12 week training programme this week
This should include sessions of 2xWave bouldering, 2xGastons&Throws practice, 2xAnCap, 2xAeroCap, 2xGeneral Strength and 2xFingerboard.Not looking forward to it - I'd much rather fart about on the grit but desperate measures are required
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wandered up the other end looking for the Anvil (but couldnt find it)
Sounds like a good day! Surprised you couldn't find the Anvil though - biggest boulder at Blackstone! If you stand looking at Fridge Hugger and then walk off right, you'll soon spot it. The map on p.290 should help?
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70kg clothed weight
If this is part of a "Train heavy; send light" strategy then can you publish your Malham trip dates in advance so we all know when to avoid the crag.
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STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M:
T:
W: In Nuremberg with work; spent the evening at E4 because it's closer to the railway station than Cafe Kraft for getting home afterwards. It's small, I think I would get bored quickly if it were my regular wall, but perfectly ok for a one-off. Flashed a traverse that was the same colour as the 7A to 7C bloc circuit. I suspect the colour may have been a coincidence, particularly as this happened towards the end of a 25 minute ARC set.
T: Half hour shoulder rehab / mobility
F: ditto
Went to the doc, who reckons my multi week case of General Crapness Syndrome seems more like and allergy than an infection. Tests required to establish allergy to what at this time of year. Meanwhile cortisol spray to alleviate symptoms.
S: Comp with M jnr at Boulderwelt in Regensburg. Not as good as the last couple of rounds - way overcrowded and queues too long. Nevertheless doing comp problems is good because it forces you to try things outside your comfort zone. One of today's few decent tops was a scary no-hands stand up on a slopy volume at top of the comp wall - this was *far* outside my comfort zone and I probably would have backed off had there not been an audience.
S: MTB. Cortisol spray seems to help: first time in weeks I've felt well enough to get out on the bike in the woods for an hour. yyfy.
The Plan: set easier replicas of moonboard "6B+" problems on other steep boards, and train on them all winter.
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M:
T: 50 board. Brilliant session. Climbed one of my small holds "projects" without much hassle. It was suppose to take me a good number of session but the holds and moves actually felt fine. Keen for more.
W:
T: Impromptu one arm max hang/benchmarking session. Very surprised to be able to hang the middle BM2K edge with my RH for 7-8 seconds. Only managed 2 seconds with my LH but I have had a long term finger injury which still isn't 100%.
F: Quick hit at Baslow.
S: Weekend in Peak with non climbing friends. On a day which looked unbelievably good for climbing. Silly amounts of alcohol.
S: Quick session checking out Famous Grouse 7B+ on my way home. With a combination of the fading light and hangover induced abysmal footwork I succeeded in puntering off the top about 4 times in a row :pissed:
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70kg clothed weight
If this is part of a "Train heavy; send light" strategy then can you publish your Malham trip dates in advance so we all know when to avoid the crag.
:lol:
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I'm a crap climber and a worthless human being.
Don't believe everything Paul says.
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70kg clothed weight
If this is part of a "Train heavy; send light" strategy then can you publish your Malham trip dates in advance so we all know when to avoid the crag.
Don't worry - I won't hold it against you
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Had a play on Kiss My Atrse which was hard but suspect I was making it overly hard for myself by not using the foot block.
Foot block to the left?
I was playing on this on Saturday. I could start it with the footblock but was nowhere near without. PB videos show with and without. :shrug:
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STG: Heal elbow, climbs some things
MTG: More 7B/+s
LTG: 8A
M: Last day in Font, everything quite wet. Went to Rocher du Duc and tried the 7A roof above the carvings, would go when dry as not that hard, wet and very slopy top-out wouldn't allow it this time though
T:
W:
T: Arch, took ibuprofen before and rested more in between problems than normal. No real elbow symptoms, a bit of ache afterwards. Good session!
F:
S: Arch, another good session, feeling strong - weird.
S:
Elbow starting to feel better while climbing, hopefully I'll get out this weekend!
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Had a play on Kiss My Atrse which was hard but suspect I was making it overly hard for myself by not using the foot block.
Foot block to the left?
I was playing on this on Saturday. I could start it with the footblock but was nowhere near without. PB videos show with and without. :shrug:
That "footblock" looks suspiciously like the floor to me. Used to be 6C+ so likely now graded for doing it without.
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Had a play on Kiss My Atrse which was hard but suspect I was making it overly hard for myself by not using the foot block.
Foot block to the left?
I was playing on this on Saturday. I could start it with the footblock but was nowhere near without. PB videos show with and without. :shrug:
That "footblock" looks suspiciously like the floor to me. Used to be 6C+ so likely now graded for doing it without.
This was the photo that made me think I was doing it wrong:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=255410
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goals -
Nov - training block focussing on strength.
Dec - Feb training, training, training.
2017 - Powerplant, Raindogs, Nemesis, Anger Management, 7c onsight, E6.
MTW - nowt
Thu - Physio session 3, small improvements, pains in elbows likely referred so told to get back at it.
Fri Mini Works - LI AeroCap 3x10 mins traversing and up and down problems then did the yellow circuit, 19 problems, about 25 attempts, no rests, in 17 minutes.
Sat nowt
Sun - base session 9 - performance similar to session 3 on Nov 4th :o :furious: Never get out of the boat
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Had a play on Kiss My Atrse which was hard but suspect I was making it overly hard for myself by not using the foot block.
Foot block to the left?
I was playing on this on Saturday. I could start it with the footblock but was nowhere near without. PB videos show with and without. :shrug:
That "footblock" looks suspiciously like the floor to me. Used to be 6C+ so likely now graded for doing it without.
This was the photo that made me think I was doing it wrong:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=255410
He's doing a five move sit-start with a chalk bag on, not to be treated as gospel...
It was a long time ago but this didn't feel too bad:
https://vimeo.com/20652286
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Ian's vid look about right, that guy in the photo is stood on the floor.
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Right, after the maudlin being ill for weeks, i'm back on the wagon.
M - bouldering at the wall - OK session seeing I only go there at 8. Should have cut nails, was grinding up everything
T - short weight session
W - bouldered at the wall - fairly good session, managed a couple of new probs, still struggling on 45 deg board though. Skin a bit thin after 2 sessions in a week.
T - v short weights session, like 10 mins
F - nothing
S - short walk with kids
S - 10 K run, felt OK for first run in about 4 weeks. Nice morning, easy social pace.
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M - Off work with pulled back
T - ditto
W -
T - Moving around a bit on the wall
F - Slightly better moving around, you could almost pretend it was AeroCap
S -
S - Works. Warmed up on some Irnbrus, then did 1-4-6 on both arms a few times. Max hangs. Didn't want to put loads of weight on, so just did some unweighted half crimps, then worked up to 5 x middle 2 with 8Kgs on, 2.5 mins rest. 2 x 25Kg r-hand pinches, failed on left hand and sacked it for more shuffling around, completing the Irnbru circuit (37? problems).
Chronic lower back injury rears it's ugly head for (only) the 2nd time this year, but a bad one. Could hardly move Monday. Is slowly easing off, but thinking I might need to get a proper diagnosis of suspected herniated disc.
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M Wave. Did 2 level 3s which is good for me. I had to really try hard on the yellow and black at the far right hand side.
T Knackered from Monday - just a bit of bodyweight HIT
W MTB. Houndkirk moor then down a very wet Blacka. Ace
T TT suggested Curbar bad landing boulder. Did Late Junction which I enjoyed (good beta from TT - Cheers) then after TT had left Robin B and I did Eh Andre. Had a look at the problems at Tegness on the way back but they were wet after all the rain on Monday.
F Kettlebells core
S Loads of pullp ups and lock offs - and a few lat pull downs and some curls.
S
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Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.
Body Audit: Fingers ok, R shoulder still sore despite plenty of rest last week, if anything worse - going to climb tonight and see how it goes.
Sleep: Ok, caught up at weekend.
M: Nothing, rest from previous week. (~7.5hrs)
T: Nothing, see above. (~7hrs)
W: TCA eve, did all the new Reds (5 - 6B), flashed all but one (dyno), then more work on the final Yellow, new sequence feeling good, getting as far as dropping the match on the penultimate hold now. Hopeful it may go tonight, be good to finish this set, esp as they come down this week. (~6.5hrs)
T: Work eve out, ok but bailed fairly early to better pub and better company in Bristol, managed not to drink too much(~5.5hrs)
F: Nothing, picked up daughter in eve for the weekend. (~8hrs)
S: Nothing, shopping then school christmas fair - considerably improved by addition of mulled cider in inappropriate quantity (~7hrs)
S: Nothing, 8yr old birthday party - no mulled cider :( . Did get sloe gin in the eve though :) (~6hrs)
Sod all. Not doing enough. Annoyed shoulder not improved. Got results from the comp Thurs before last though - second and only 5 points behind Yan so pretty happy with that - he looked very strong on the ones I saw him do - not loads of competition though.
69kg
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Power Club
Mon - hill sprints x6; boxing bag. Fantastic.
Tue - rest
Wed - PE low 3'10". Still poor but better. Front lever pulls x10, dumbbell complex x10 all x3. Brutal.
Thu - 20' bag; climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - climbing gym. Hot.
Sun - rest.
Mixed week. Not done much, struggling to find motivation for board projects.
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STG: Bulgarian fingerboarding
MTG: climb again
LTG: deadlift again
M- 1. Max hangs 2-arm BM2k small crimps open crimp: 9 sets up to +45 x 5s
2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 5 sets up to +15x3
3. Assisted 1-arm hangs BM2k central rung open crimp: 5 sets up to -5 x 3s
T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag BM2k right 'eye': 7 sets up to -5 x 5s
2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +50 x 2
3. Dead hangs off pinches on board: 5 sets no added weight
W- 1. Max hangs 2-arm BM2k small crimps open crimp: 9 sets up to +45 x 8s; 50kg feels too dangerous in case of dry firing, so I'm going to shift to 1-arm work now...
2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 5 sets up to +20 x 2
T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag BM2k right 'eye': 7 sets up to 0 x 5s on left, -5 x 5s on right
2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +50 x 3
3. 3 finger drag lock offs on straps: 5 sets
F- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp open crimp: 9 sets up to -10 x 5s
2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 5 sets up to +20 x 3
3. 2-arm hangs BM2k open crimp small crimps: 6 sets mostly +30 x 5s
S- Rest
S- Stoke AW: 3 sets per side single 1-armers; decent quality
Pulled on moonboard - better than last week but essentially climbing one footed as although I can weight-bear through the heel, I can't get force going through my toes.. Fingers do feel fuck-off strong tho :)
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M- rest
Tu - Indoors, working the new '6B' problems, making good progress, feeling stronger every week, started on a black '6C' the previous week, seemed hard at first, but got to the second last move on that too, never climbed a 6C indoors.
W- Rest
Th - A repeat of Tuesday, but feeling a little bit better, good feeling this, didn't finish anything though. It doesn'y bother me anymore, just like trying harder moves.
F - Rest
S - More Rest and booze and duck.
Su - Was planning to go indoors again as the forecast didn't look great, but woke up to blue skies, went to Gorge aux chat, a bit damp in place, but a good choice, and worked my 2 projects Gigi and Travaux forcés, feeling O.K, got my sequences worked on Travaux Forcés but need either perfect conditions or a bit more finger strength to make the move up. Gigi will be tough, all the start moves are so low percentage for me. Watched a guy who'd been trying Travaux Forcé with me snap his ankle on another problem, went home after that. Ate a big pile of caramalised Peking duck skin.
Weight 75.1kg
Good week.
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STG: Bulgarian fingerboarding
....
Fingers do feel fuck-off strong tho :)
Just reading that routine made my fingers throb with jealousy. Solid work Matt. When you can only train one thing it's harder to get distracted.
STG - weight maintenance. keep my hand in. Plan the training.
MTG - mileage. Do the training.
LTG - Rubicon 8A
M- bodyweight stuff
T- works session. Wasps then motherboard. Couldn't even do the easiest problem in the book but didn't expect to. This feels like great training for Rubicon. Overhanging and crap feet - perfect! Also, can confirm, the works campus board large rungs are much easier than the matrix's - that was a relief.
W- podcast by someone called Charles Poliquin who, apparently, has trained 20 medal winning olympians. He must know his stuff surely? Well he disagreed with everything that Pavel said the week before - kettle bells, foam rolling and planks are "moronic" apparently. It's Started reading up on Leto too. My God that's a rabbit hole and a half!
T - one arm finger board max hangs (but still without a pulley rigged up). Was practicing with support lowdown on a door frame. Managed several repetitions of 10s like this but not scientific. A learning experience....here's what I found out:
1. The bottom outside edge holds on a BM1000 are much harder to hang than the middlehold on a BM2000. The middle hold on a BM2k is a jug in comparison. This is crazy.
2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that. Damn my crap technique. Genuinely psyched for making gains here. I know strength is my greatest strength but I pretty much like fingerboard more than actual climbing.
F - kids. But still managed kettlebell swings and some painful stretching.
S - felt stretched. curbar and plantation bouldering. Amazing conditions above the fog but what did I know. Couldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy. Ticked Crescent Arête which I have longtime wanted to do. It wasn't easy by any stretch - found very scary.
S - more stretching. Got an amazon delivery of a trx, a foam roller and some elastic band things. I will become flexible!
Weight - 63-64 the last few days. Feel good. Trying to up the fat and drop the carbs to help with hunger & over eating and it's going ok.
Mood - Psyched for training. Again. Feels good!
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2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight.
That's quite interesting.
Cheers, I'll sleep well tonight.
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Couldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy.
I find this astounding, bearing in mind how strong you are. Were the conditions that bad?
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That's quite interesting.
Cheers, I'll sleep well tonight.
Hope you slept better than me!
The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%
Short climbers need to hold a bigger % of bw for a given grade than people who can lank it (not Toms word).
Also, this nugget but not sure exactly what it means "the human forearm is capable of pulling 70kgs". Am sure some people must crush 70kgs though so this one was a bit puzzling.
Anyway, there it all is. Fill yer boots. Maybe we should have a separate thread and folks can post their scores or something. For fun.
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Couldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy.
I find this astounding, bearing in mind how strong you are. Were the conditions that bad?
Hahaha
Conditions on Green Traverse were fine.
From the rail, as in starting at the rail, it was no problem. But the first move took just that bit out of me.
I can't stress enough how relatively shit I am as a climber. I absolutely have no ability to "go for it" or use feet well or problem solve. Static hangs though are relatively easy. I love hanging from my board and watching telly.
I need to work on this. It is very obviously a(the!) limiting factor. Even the 6A fun dyno at Minus10 I could not do a fortnight ago, despite being able to hang 2 handed on a 14mm edge for 10s with 45kgs (+70% bw).
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The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%
Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??
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The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%
Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??
It was in the context of an interview where a number of things were discussed. USA grades were used so I've guessed what the font grade equivalent is.
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Murph, don't you pull 7C on the lime? But you can't do the Green Traverse? WTF? You are an absolute anomaly. I don't believe anybody can have such poor technique that they cannot transform that raw power into a 7A tick. It's not even a technical 7A! It's quite campussy! I think you need to try harder, and for God's sake, sack off whatever strength training you're doing and get out on technical grit problems. It sounds like there's lots more to be gained from improving your technique (which will translate to lime also) than making marginal improvements in strength.
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The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%
Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??
It was in the context of an interview where a number of things were discussed. USA grades were used so I've guessed what the font grade equivalent is.
Yeah, but its still a boulder grade (V5) then a route grade (5.13b), then a boulder grade (V11/12)
13b is french 8a, but that could be a stamina monster who barely manages 7A, or a boulderer no endurance who can climb 7C
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Murph, don't you pull 7C on the lime? But you can't do the Green Traverse? WTF? You are an absolute anomaly. I don't believe anybody can have such poor technique that they cannot transform that raw power into a 7A tick. It's not even a technical 7A! It's quite campussy! I think you need to try harder, and for God's sake, sack off whatever strength training you're doing and get out on technical grit problems. It sounds like there's lots more to be gained from improving your technique (which will translate to lime also) than making marginal improvements in strength.
Thanks Will. I do really appreciate the encouragement.
I've never ticked 7C. I was getting 7B reasonably quickly though (Bigger Splash Direct in 6 goes probably my most braggable achievement) but then got stuck into a 7C/+ that I really should have ticked either the first, second or even the sixth time I grabbed the top hold but failed to match.
"Try harder". God knows I have tried to try harder.
"It's quite campussy". And therein lies the problem.
Got my standing vertical jump measured earlier this year. Far below average for a human male. That is consistent with a lack of dyno mental ability. I don't have much power at all and am incredibly static.
I know I need to work on it but kids and being slammed for time really aren't helping. If only my weakness was weakness!
-oh and I did tick "Not Green Traverse" earlier this year in literally two goes and thought it felt 6b, but afterwards I found out about all of the rules governing a proper tick (no heel hook, match rail, hands off the top etc) and was trying to do that proper version. I was only on it though cos the easy stuff on business boulder was wet and there were some mats under green. I hadn't gone there with any objectives other than making use of an unexpected pass.
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Yeah, but its still a boulder grade (V5) then a route grade (5.13b), then a boulder grade (V11/12)
That's just the way I wrote them. The order in the interview was V11/12, then a few minutes later V5, then a few minutes later 5.13b was mentioned.
I thought it more helpful to put them in a more consistent order.
The Lattice guys system does draw an equivalence between averages on the bouldering and route grades. Someone with 7C boulders who climbs 8a will, all things equal, be strong for the route grade. Someone with 7A and 8a will have relatively good endurance. Or something.
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2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that.
2k middle hold = 25mm.
1k outer holds = 20mm.
sorry.
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If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!
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If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!
Difficult to be precise what with the shape but I measured the 1k at 19-20mm and the 2k at 21-22mm. But the 2k is jug-like as well.
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2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that.
2k middle hold = 25mm.
1k outer holds = 20mm.
sorry.
Thanks standard. My 2k is just a bit smaller than yours I guess (but you should see it on a warm day)
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:icon_welcome:
If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!
Negative! They are 20mm.
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Granted it's hard to to measure these golds because of the inner and outer camber, but there's a reason the 2k middle hold feels like a jug compared to the 1k....because it's much bigger.
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Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.
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Yeah, I find that too. I've only ever been able to hang it 1 armed if I wedge in the corner
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Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.
I can crimp it, but I'd rather not.
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On my BM the central slot is 20mm, maybe 21, but surely not 25. I think it feels like a jug because it's incut and with a smaller edge radius.
Anyway that doesn't matter anymore because I've just ordered a brand new custom made single 20mm flat edge.
I want to mount it in the garage beam so I'll have plenty of room for my legs and body.
It's time to get strong now. The last 23 years have been my warm up.
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Can't believe I'm doing this but you lot have made me massively doubt myself. So i had to remeasure.
Nibs, Either you are measuring badly or your 2k is completely non standard.
2000 middle slot is 24mm:
http://i.imgur.com/yyZHdAt.jpg
1000 outer crimps are 19mm:
http://i.imgur.com/FXf9mVj.jpg
Anyway, i'm sure one of you could just phone up dan/ned and ask what their CNC machine is set at.
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guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?
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"Rounding errors".
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Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.
Yes.
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guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?
I measured from the flat bit.
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Anyway that doesn't matter anymore because I've just ordered a brand new custom made single 20mm flat edge.
If the quality of finish, look of the grain, satisfaction of owning an artisanal one-off etc float your boat, then congratulations.
I otoh bought a small campus rung (~19mm) for 7 Euros, and fixed it with the non-incut side up.
Am a long way off being able to hang it one-handed though.
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guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?
I measured from the flat bit.
fair enough - looks in the pic like the tape is in the middle of the slot.
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guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?
I measured from the flat bit.
fair enough - looks in the pic like the tape is in the middle of the slot.
it is. sorry. i thought that's what you meant by the flat bit?
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Standard meant the flat but at the back, not the flat bit on the bottom.
Pictures measured along the bottom bit...
2k, measured from the front. 21-22mm:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/a90799cd2d3fdce8ac6baba85fe4d94a.jpg)
And the 1k measured from the front. 18-19mm:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/6b963684455d0062af156c5d318dc932.jpg)
So the 2k is 3mm deeper on the flat bit, but more like 5mm deeper including the bit at the back, and it is also incut about 5-10 degrees (as measured with a child's fork, not with science).
In my world those differences add up to one of them being one armable for about 3 times as long as the other.
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Why's that cute little doggy sniffing your finger?
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Just been training on Pauls home board and that has a 2k and 1k - the 2k is way easier 'on his' to hang from. Pretty much the same depth I'd say but the radius and the edge is way more positive on the 2k. The 1k radius is more like the outer lower 2k 4 finger slot radius, much more rounded.
Whether that's down to individual boards or consistent, I wouldn't know but Paul says the 2k is way easier to hang one armed.
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I otoh bought a small campus rung (~19mm) for 7 Euros, and fixed it with the non-incut side up.
Duh, I bought a set of 3 then realised they were too incut when I fixed them. Hadn't worked out how to resolve that. :slap:
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Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.
I half crimp it a la Chirs Web Parsons' program and find it ideal for that grip.
My BM2K slot measures in at 21-22mm, but I have just realised that since tweaking my frame the board is actually off vertical which may (or may not) explain why I can't touch the 45s.
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Busy week with other stuff
M-S 30 press ups each morning
T - Westway bouldering: Boiling hot and busy but had a good session up to V3.
Early days still.... busy week this week but hope to get to the wall at the weekend. Flights booked for a France trip late Feb.
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Similar for me - busy week sorting out household drain problems, but did manage:
Thurs: Trip to Depot after work, general pottering testing out ongoing elbow issue that seems to have quietened down.
F: Woke up with stiff / sore elbows - hmmmm. Not sure if that's bad or just a sign that they've had a bit of movement.
S: Hosted sleepover with daughter's 4 year old cousin. Took them both to the Climbing Lab on my own. Una still totally not bothered with climbing, her cousin turned out to be very keen / good.
S: After about 2 hours' sleep, took both kids swimming on my own. Quite a mission.
Not so much training for climbing as training for having > 1 child this week.
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Flights booked for a France trip late Feb.
What about the promised Aberdeen trip?
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bit late but hey ho
mon - sat
nothing
sunday
Managed to muster the troops together for a trip to Neath Abbey (hadn't been before) to loosely celebrate my Birthday - well that was my excuse to get people in Bristol to get their arses into gear. It was a really cool day, 5 of us in the end. Ollie and Hugh knew their way around which made it really enjoyable. Climbed loads of problems around 6c - 7a including a flash of a nice 7a traverse. The best thing that happened was me nearly doing a 7b problem called Tectonics (never done one before) falling off the last easyish moves after getting the crux done. Felt like I could get it done with a return visit as we only had a go towards the end of the day. I've not gone up a grade bouldering for a long time so it would be great to get back to do this.
A good week, well day really.
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Nice Sam, Happy Birthday. Always wanted to check it out, but no-one could tell me exactly where it was. Looks cool.
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Happy birthday Sam. Brionified and Techtonics are great aren't they? Did you do Perfect Slab? My favourite problem at Neath.
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Hey thanks Chaps. It was a cool place but, without someone to show the way, would have been hard to find on my own. I thought generally all the problems were great. The rock is brilliant too. A welcome change from the savagery of Dartmoor.
Re: Perfect Slab: I was so keen to get elsewhere that I foolishly declared "I don't give a fuck about this problem". There was laughter but sounds like I missed out.
Keen to get back there. Tried Triassic too which could be doable for me.
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Happy birthday Sam - sounds like a great day out.
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M: pullups. bm weighted hangs
T: work
W: theraband shoulder exercises
T: board pe session. Not bad.
F: nothing
S: isometric weights. emom ring planks, handstands
S: bm weighted hangs. emom ring planks. Tired
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Mon. Railway museum with grandson.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Bike 40.81 miles 2 hrs 36 mins.
Thu. Board did a couple of old problems with screw on feet. Then did some system type problems.
Fri. Bike out with old guys 72 miles 4 hrs 40 mins with a lunch stop.
Sat. Board worked and did a couple of new things and did all the moves on another but couldn't link it.
Sun. Bike 62.48 miles 3 hrs 53 mins.
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M: Rest
T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap
45' Board - 1 hour
5 x 1min on 1min off HI-Aerocap
10 mins LI-Aerocap
W: Rest
T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap
Messed about trying some random dynos with some locals.
30 minutes on the 45' Board.
Messed about upstairs on the roof/cave and the vertical bouldering wall.
Didn't realise the time and the place closed so couldn't warm down. More of a distracted/social session than usual, usually have the place to myself...
F: Rest
S: Manflu/DIY
S: Manflu/DIY
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Wed. Bike 40.81 miles 2 hrs 36 mins.
Fri. Bike out with old guys 72 miles 4 hrs 40 mins with a lunch stop.
Sun. Bike 62.48 miles 3 hrs 53 mins.
Do you record your total annual distance on Strava or anything?
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M 21. Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 22. Turbo early AM. Boulder Bunker PM
W 23. Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 24. Turbo early AM, Gym AM, walk PM
F. 25 Turbo early AM Gym AM
S. 26 Turbo early AM Gym AM walk PM
S. 27 Turbo early AM Gym AM walk PM
Feeling better conditioned and less weirdly boxed by any significant activity, irrespective of intensity. This is a common problem with head injury, but positive that it's improving. An hour's weights in the gym still feels fairly tiring though, but I am guessing that is reasonably normal!
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Wed. Bike 40.81 miles 2 hrs 36 mins.
Fri. Bike out with old guys 72 miles 4 hrs 40 mins with a lunch stop.
Sun. Bike 62.48 miles 3 hrs 53 mins.
Do you record your total annual distance on Strava or anything?
I don't use Strava, I have an old style Sigma computer. I write it down in a diary and occasionally add up what I've done.