Couldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy.
That's quite interesting. Cheers, I'll sleep well tonight.
Quote from: Murph on November 28, 2016, 11:00:50 pmCouldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy. I find this astounding, bearing in mind how strong you are. Were the conditions that bad?
The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bwa V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%
Quote from: Murph on November 29, 2016, 11:17:48 amThe full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bwa V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110% Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??
Quote from: Duma on November 29, 2016, 11:27:00 amQuote from: Murph on November 29, 2016, 11:17:48 amThe full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bwa V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110% Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??It was in the context of an interview where a number of things were discussed. USA grades were used so I've guessed what the font grade equivalent is.
Murph, don't you pull 7C on the lime? But you can't do the Green Traverse? WTF? You are an absolute anomaly. I don't believe anybody can have such poor technique that they cannot transform that raw power into a 7A tick. It's not even a technical 7A! It's quite campussy! I think you need to try harder, and for God's sake, sack off whatever strength training you're doing and get out on technical grit problems. It sounds like there's lots more to be gained from improving your technique (which will translate to lime also) than making marginal improvements in strength.
Yeah, but its still a boulder grade (V5) then a route grade (5.13b), then a boulder grade (V11/12)
2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that.
If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!
Quote from: Murph on November 28, 2016, 11:00:50 pm2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that. 2k middle hold = 25mm.1k outer holds = 20mm.sorry.
Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.
guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?how deep is the flat bit?
Anyway that doesn't matter anymore because I've just ordered a brand new custom made single 20mm flat edge.