[galpinos]

Couldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy.

I find this astounding, bearing in mind how strong you are. Were the conditions that bad?

[Murph]

That's quite interesting.
Cheers, I'll sleep well tonight.

Hope you slept better than me!

The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%

Short climbers need to hold a bigger % of bw for a given grade than people who can lank it (not Toms word).

Also, this nugget but not sure exactly what it means "the human forearm is capable of pulling 70kgs". Am sure some people must crush 70kgs though so this one was a bit puzzling.

Anyway, there it all is. Fill yer boots. Maybe we should have a separate thread and folks can post their scores or something. For fun.



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[Murph]

Couldn't do the rail-to-jug move on green traverse which I know I should find easy.

I find this astounding, bearing in mind how strong you are. Were the conditions that bad?

Hahaha

Conditions on Green Traverse were fine.

From the rail, as in starting at the rail, it was no problem. But the first move took just that bit out of me.

I can't stress enough how relatively shit I am as a climber. I absolutely have no ability to "go for it" or use feet well or problem solve. Static hangs though are relatively easy. I love hanging from my board and watching telly.

I need to work on this. It is very obviously a(the!) limiting factor. Even the 6A fun dyno at Minus10 I could not do a fortnight ago, despite being able to hang 2 handed on a 14mm edge for 10s with 45kgs (+70% bw).


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[Duma]

The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%

Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??

[Murph]

The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%

Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??

It was in the context of an interview where a number of things were discussed. USA grades were used so I've guessed what the font grade equivalent is.


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[Will Hunt]

Murph, don't you pull 7C on the lime? But you can't do the Green Traverse? WTF? You are an absolute anomaly. I don't believe anybody can have such poor technique that they cannot transform that raw power into a 7A tick. It's not even a technical 7A! It's quite campussy! I think you need to try harder, and for God's sake, sack off whatever strength training you're doing and get out on technical grit problems. It sounds like there's lots more to be gained from improving your technique (which will translate to lime also) than making marginal improvements in strength.

[Duma]

The full breakdown Tom gave, scattered through the interview, was he would expect:
a V5 (6C+?) climber to hold 80% bw
a 5.13b (7B/+?) climber to hold 95% bw
a V11/12 "elite" climber (8A/+?) to hold 100-110%

Why the random switch to mix of route and Boulder grades in the middle??

It was in the context of an interview where a number of things were discussed. USA grades were used so I've guessed what the font grade equivalent is.

Yeah, but its still a boulder grade (V5) then a route grade (5.13b), then a boulder grade (V11/12)

13b is french 8a, but that could be a stamina monster who barely manages 7A, or a boulderer no endurance who can climb 7C

[Murph]

Murph, don't you pull 7C on the lime? But you can't do the Green Traverse? WTF? You are an absolute anomaly. I don't believe anybody can have such poor technique that they cannot transform that raw power into a 7A tick. It's not even a technical 7A! It's quite campussy! I think you need to try harder, and for God's sake, sack off whatever strength training you're doing and get out on technical grit problems. It sounds like there's lots more to be gained from improving your technique (which will translate to lime also) than making marginal improvements in strength.

Thanks Will. I do really appreciate the encouragement.

I've never ticked 7C. I was getting 7B reasonably quickly though (Bigger Splash Direct in 6 goes probably my most braggable achievement) but then got stuck into a 7C/+ that I really should have ticked either the first, second or even the sixth time I grabbed the top hold but failed to match.

"Try harder". God knows I have tried to try harder.

"It's quite campussy". And therein lies the problem.

Got my standing vertical jump measured earlier this year. Far below average for a human male. That is consistent with a lack of dyno mental ability. I don't have much power at all and am incredibly static.

I know I need to work on it but kids and being slammed for time really aren't helping. If only my weakness was weakness!

-oh and I did tick "Not Green Traverse" earlier this year in literally two goes and thought it felt 6b, but afterwards I found out about all of the rules governing a proper tick (no heel hook, match rail, hands off the top etc) and was trying to do that proper version. I was only on it though cos the easy stuff on business boulder was wet and there were some mats under green. I hadn't gone there with any objectives other than making use of an unexpected pass.





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[Murph]

Yeah, but its still a boulder grade (V5) then a route grade (5.13b), then a boulder grade (V11/12)

That's just the way I wrote them. The order in the interview was V11/12, then a few minutes later V5, then a few minutes later 5.13b was mentioned.

I thought it more helpful to put them in a more consistent order.

The Lattice guys system does draw an equivalence between averages on the bouldering and route grades. Someone with 7C boulders who climbs 8a will, all things equal, be strong for the route grade. Someone with 7A and 8a will have relatively good endurance. Or something.



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[standard]

2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that.

2k middle hold = 25mm.
1k outer holds = 20mm.
sorry.

[tomtom]

If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!

[Murph]

If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!

Difficult to be precise what with the shape but I measured the 1k at 19-20mm and the 2k at 21-22mm. But the 2k is jug-like as well.


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[Murph]

2. According to Tom R on the training beta podcast an 8A/+ climber should be able to hold a 20mm edge for 5s with 100-110% bodyweight. If he is talking about the middle hold on a 2k I can't be far off that.

2k middle hold = 25mm.
1k outer holds = 20mm.
sorry.

Thanks standard. My 2k is just a bit smaller than yours I guess (but you should see it on a warm day)


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[standard]

 

If it's the lower 1k outer holds they're a lot less than 20mm!!

Negative! They are 20mm.

[standard]

Granted it's hard to to measure these golds because of the inner and outer camber, but there's a reason the 2k middle hold feels like a jug compared to the 1k....because it's much bigger.

[dave]

Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.

[abarro81]

Yeah, I find that too. I've only ever been able to hang it 1 armed if I wedge in the corner

[nai]

Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.

I can crimp it, but I'd rather not.

[Nibile]

On my BM the central slot is 20mm, maybe 21, but surely not 25. I think it feels like a jug because it's incut and with a smaller edge radius.
Anyway that doesn't matter anymore because I've just ordered a brand new custom made single 20mm flat edge.
I want to mount it in the garage beam so I'll have plenty of room for my legs and body.
It's time to get strong now. The last 23 years have been my warm up.

[standard]

Can't believe I'm doing this but you lot have made me massively doubt myself. So i had to remeasure.
Nibs, Either you are measuring badly or your 2k is completely non standard.

2000 middle slot is 24mm:
http://i.imgur.com/yyZHdAt.jpg

1000 outer crimps are 19mm:
http://i.imgur.com/FXf9mVj.jpg

Anyway, i'm sure one of you could just phone up dan/ned and ask what their CNC machine is set at.

[Duma]

guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?

[dave]

"Rounding errors".

[the_dom]

Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.

Yes.

[standard]

guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?

I measured from the flat bit.

[Muenchener]

Anyway that doesn't matter anymore because I've just ordered a brand new custom made single 20mm flat edge.

If the quality of finish, look of the grain, satisfaction of owning an artisanal one-off etc float your boat, then congratulations.

I otoh bought a small campus rung (~19mm) for 7 Euros, and fixed it with the non-incut side up.

Am a long way off being able to hang it one-handed though.