I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."
Is this really news?
Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.
I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me. ;)
Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13)
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.
I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me. ;)
One wonders why... :-\ ;)
Its defo news. The worlds best climber comes to malham and tries our joint hardest route! Best thing i ve read for ages.
Can't believe we are all still writing on this thread and theres not even a confirmed send or route being projected yet! We need facts (routes/grades/onsight/flash/redpoint). Anyone got any? :shrug:
(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)
Shit, and they say Ron has big hands.
0:32
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)
0:32
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)
ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)
0:32
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)
ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)
yep it was.. classic. I love the peter kay one as well,
aye cows i meant. :)
Is he off to Kilnsey, PenTrywn or the Tor?
then he sat around for a bit and then he went home.
But how TENACIOUS is he? Is Sharples there to assess?as in tenacious being an ascent practised over a minor geological age?
... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
I only follow you on twitter because someone told me you climbed 8B
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.
Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...
QuoteMaybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...
What? and end up being chased in my knackered Berlingo by the paparazzi?
I don't want to end up like Princess Di.
I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
If so I'm going to pitch Hello Magazine vertical edition to the insect overlords...
an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people.
A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.
No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.
No one's forcing Serpico to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist :whistle:
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.
Isn't it like RD's in that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???
Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.
He's here till Tuesday.
it's circus folk - they have little tiny hands.
No one's forcing Serpico to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist :whistle:
Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.
I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............
Details.......Cheers Rich - major crushage as expected ;D
All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.Wouldn't you put it on the ceiling so when you wake up you see ur hero :great:
But what about the Brandenburg (sp?) gate project at the tor?
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:
What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.
I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:
Next I'm going to get Doyle and Sausage on here claiming Margalef is hard because they didn't prepare for a sport climbing trip and got spanked... :yawn:
not saying what I did and doing nothing are a little different wouldn't you say?
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:
What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.
I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:
Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.
more to the point did you try/crush/enjoy any of the rec's away from Laboratori?
Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.It's funny; I remember you banging on about how soft Tarn was
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:
What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.
I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:
and unlike Paul, I ticked everything there. Which just goes to show how futile arguing about grades is.
I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.
Soft First r/p. Very very soft. Prob 7c+ (8a in day)
I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.
It's a different Adam Lincoln who wrote this on 8a.nu then?QuoteSoft First r/p. Very very soft. Prob 7c+ (8a in day)
Sorry to be a :wank:, end of the week and I'm feeling a bit prickly! No harm done I hope...
Now I love the tor, but this is really log. One of the reasons it hasnt been done is the sharp snappy holds, and the lack of aesthetic loveliness.
I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a.
As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.
I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denial.
Paul i can handle doing nothing on a two week trip. If it had been 6 months i may have been a little more sacked. Although very different oyster on the orme is the biggest sandbag in britain never mind zoolook! f7c+,its more like font 7c halfway up the crag.ridic!
I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a.
As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.
Agreed. At the risk of sounding like JB, I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denali. Failed on Subculture the following day (i.e. considered soft, but requires power).
So: so far he's onsighted: Zoolook, Overnite, Magnetic, The Oak and The Groove / Free n Easy / Breach link. And would probably have onsighted Predator and Energy Vampire if the finishes were better defined either by chains or guide descriptions.
Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if ANY of those routes (other than The Groove and Free n Slimy obviously) had previously had onsights?
I think Zoolook is a steady 8a redpoint, but as an onsight I'm not surprised he thought it 8a+.
He wasted no time adding to his score-card (check it out here www.8a.nu (http://www.8a.nu)) with on-sights of Zoolook (F8a) and Overnite Sensation (F8a+). Next up was Overshadow (F9a+), Steve McClure’s 2007 mega route.
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...
That's the thing about UKC; no matter how much you try to parody them, the parody always falls short of the reality.
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."
Yep, that'd put him in his place...
Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that.
uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.
mermaids are hot.
Content, delivery and timing....
mermaids are so hot right now.
Content, delivery and timing....
Apologies. I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? ;)
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? ;)
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? ;)
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? ;)
He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...
Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...
Content, delivery and timing....
Apologies. I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.
Doesnt sound like any tips are required :-*
Neil Conway was a visionary.
.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...
Mmm :-\ VNB world class or a pile of :wank:
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...
As for VNB – To be fair, unlikemosta small proportion of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.
:spank:As for VNB – To be fair, unlikemosta small proportionall but 2 or 3 of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.
Who the fuck's advising this guy?
QuoteWho the fuck's advising this guy?
Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.
The worlds best climber
Its great that he’s managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!
Let's not go down that:whistle:routeovergraded and overhyped highball anyway.
Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes? Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy. He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry
Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't ;)
Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.
At least I think that's what Stu meant. :-\
3. that a guy who works and has a young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve :bow:
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.
Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though
Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...
absolute shit, spray and hearsay. :)
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.
Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how :-\ :whistle:
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:
It would have been impressive if he had - there is no chain on EV.
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?
Looks like he also did the coming in from the left beta?
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.
QuoteWitnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.
That's what I thought too
witnesses say he didnt even remove his climbing shoes between "fuck the police" and tekken
There's only one emoticon can do justice to this:
:badger:
QuoteWitnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.
That's what I thought too
i dont hate the guy he's just too good, he needs to come try big bang and get the 2nd ascent
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.
Ondra has added an extension to an exisiting Dani Andrada 8c+ (Obrint pas extension) to give a proposed 9a+ (Obrint el sistema) from Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/news_escalade~74660.adam-ondra-espagne-nouvelle-voie-montagne-escalade-extreme-liberee-santa-ana.html?#n74660).
Took him 5 go's :o
We should probably just change the thread title to 'Ondrawad' and set an RSS the rate he churns out newsworthy ascents/repeats!
Good to see even andrada is shocked!
Good to see even andrada is shocked!
There is a brilliant Spanish climbing DVD (name escapes me - but its always on loop in the Siurana bar on wet days!) which has footage of Ondra literally Running up La Rambla, while Andrada, Ojeda and Marin look on in amazement!
Got to say, that is my favourite tantrum so far :lol:
I dont blame him though, he looked so solid for the finish!
Well, it's circa 40m high with the crux after the second bolt, a difficult section which would be about Fb8B+ boulder. This is then followed by circa 9a/9a+ climbing, with some good rests.
:agree:
Which, from some points of view, risks being made banal by its mind-blowing numbers and above all the frequency with which Ondra himself manages to send. But this certainly is anything but banal, on the contrary! And there can be no doubt that what Ondra has shown us during these last fortnight is the start of the future.
Your going to upset the Gaskinites!
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back ;)
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back ;)
Keith said he's planning to come back in a few weeks
"Ondrawad" "Ondrawatch" "Ondrawadtch" :thumbsup::goodidea:
Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?:clap2: that's priceless! Cheered me up :thumbsup:
Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?
There was a pic in climber of ondra standing under VNB with a cheeky smile.I wouldn't try this route if i was ondra.why if you can climb amazing 50 metre routes with font 8b+ on them would you want to pull on a two move route on razors that the first ascentionist (font 8c climber)had to spend 100 days on
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back ;)
Yep tis unreal!With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back ;)
Was thinking about this. It's pretty amazing that Ondra is so far ahead of the game that he's acting as a onemanboy grade calibrator for the World. Finally we're able to see where routes really stand in history (Open Air being the perfect example) as he also seems pretty good at realising what is hard because it's hard and what just isn't his style. From what he's said already, Steve's routes stand the test and Overshadow may actually be 9b. Which is interesting.
It's also interesting that people are talking about "the next level" as if it's a movement in standards created by a general shift in ability rather than one kid being so much better than everyone else. I realise there are other very talented youngsters coming through (Enzo Oddo, Geoffrey Flanburglaries etc) but Ondra is so far ahead at the moment, I don't think climbing has ever witnessed anything like it. Knocking over 9b projects in a few days and warming down with an 8c+ onsight is incomprehensible. When he does eventually spend some time on something you can see it standing unrepeated for decades.
Uh? how come there are two "thumbsup" emoticons in the list but both use the same bbcode? I prefer http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
to
http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
I wonder why I bother.
> Given that Adam Ondra spends most the time with his shirt off, how come he's so pasty?
A) he climbs everything so quickly that the amount of time he spends topless is minimal.
B) All the routes he climbs are so overhanging the sun doesn't hit them.
C) He's a ghost... he doesn't actually climb the routes, he flies up them screaming as he goes.
Is this not the route that had bolt on holds on one section? Does anyone know if Ondra used these?
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.If you want to become a donor go here:
Ondra is good at climbing.
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.If you want to become a donor go here:
http://www.anthonynolan.org/ (http://www.anthonynolan.org/)
Do it, it's pretty unlikely you'll be a match for someone and this selfless shit is a definite gusset moistener for the ladies (oh and you might save someones life blah-de-blah-whatever...)
Ondra is good at climbing.
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out, or was by the time he left.
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out,
Maybe though if he had not refused one of my biscuits he would have done it......
“Are there any routes he has admitted defeat to?” – mark sNo (AFAIK). And there aren’t likely to be any either. But obviously as said above, there’s loads of routes he’s had brief plays on but not finished off – obvious examples being Demencia Senil, Pachamama, Neanderthal etc etc etc…
“Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot” – DoyloNot in general IMO (yet at least) – although Confessions is arguably the hardest flash. The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems. And it’s power endurance (and quick recovery ability) that wins bouldering world cups (route climbers often do very well in bouldering comps). But IMO, he isn’t quite at the top level yet in terms of short power problems. Again, it largely comes down to lack of arm strength – until recently he couldn’t do a one armer (not sure if that’s still the case) and has done very little dynamic campussy type stuff. On longer problems this kind of thing doesn’t make the slightest difference, but on short stuff that kind of oomph in the arms is often very important. He’s done very few really hard short problems and those that he has done he’s found (relatively of course) difficult.
“VNB. Would be nice for him to have a play if nothing else.” - FiendIt wouldn’t particularly surprise me if he does have a quick play on it either on this or a future trip just to see what the score is. (In the long run I suspect he pretty much aims to climb all the hard sport routes out there…) But for me at least, if I had to rank the 9’s in the UK in order of quality this would be near the bottom – it’s not that it’s a bad route – it actually looks pretty good. But Overshadow, Rainshadow etc really are up there with stuff like La Rambla and Realization as some of the very best hard sport routes in the world and those – not VNB or Parisella’s Cave - are what has drawn Ondra to the UK. Having said that, VNB along with a few of Roughling’s routes are pretty much the last big “unknowns” in hard sport climbing – so it would be interesting if he had a play on it at some point.
Quote“Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot” – DoyloNot in general IMO (yet at least) – although Confessions is arguably the hardest flash. The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems. And it’s power endurance (and quick recovery ability) that wins bouldering world cups (route climbers often do very well in bouldering comps). But IMO, he isn’t quite at the top level yet in terms of short power problems. Again, it largely comes down to lack of arm strength – until recently he couldn’t do a one armer (not sure if that’s still the case) and has done very little dynamic campussy type stuff. On longer problems this kind of thing doesn’t make the slightest difference, but on short stuff that kind of oomph in the arms is often very important. He’s done very few really hard short problems and those that he has done he’s found (relatively of course) difficult.
Anyway, what’s the latest? Or is everyone avoiding Malham for fear of looking like a groupie?
:popcorn:
i agree with doyle. bear in mind some of these 9bs. you do an 8b boulder problem then instead of dropping off you rumble off up a 9a route! it is unthinkable
"He only goes bouldering twice a year, has probably the hardest flash ever and does stuff like Dirt and Big Paw as quick as the top boulderers. They might not be one move problems but if we're talking bouldering ability he's up there. He might not be as strong but he can climb most of the same stuff they can despite concentrating on 40m+ routes for 95 % of the year." - Doylo
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lotand
he was so far ahead of the field at the Sheff WC last year I dare say he would piss their projects within a few sessions.are a little wide of the mark...
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot
are a little wide of the mark...
Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago?
The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems.
Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago?
How long? Am I in with a chance? :bounce:
Dunno...this looks pretty strong to me...
Stix SD_8B+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edrqt5Sajos&feature=related#ws)
Finally did Overshadow today.
Is that 6 days (3 last year, 3 this)? Its got to come in at 9b surely?
Great news anyway.
Finally did Overshadow today.
Nice one Ethan. How did you find it?
A well named route. Rainshadow also falls to Ondra despite torrential downpours. The Malham window is closing but stayed open just enough.
And hesoffbeen to the Tor today!
http://www.steve-mcclure.com (http://www.steve-mcclure.com)
He hit Malham during the best conditions in 2010 and 2011, can't be a fluke!
I think the Total Eclipse ascent the most interesting, must be terrifying to go up there, those bolts must be pretty old.
Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."Coming over here, climbing our routes....
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"
So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?
Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?
The first seems unlikely?
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"
Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"
So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?
Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?
The first seems unlikely?
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.
There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"
Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?
Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.
There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.
An older looking japanese guy?
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.
It is. Interesting he rated Bat Route as 'soft' as most brits who get on it seem to think it isn't. Pinch of salt with that one maybe
Maybe not. Most of us aren't endurance beasts, Steve had a duff sequence and Mawson crushed it. Maybe it is soft. I'm telling myself it is anyway, in the hope that it will actually make it easier.
Caff has been on BR recently and said it was one of the hardest routes he's tried.
Ok, me climbing a lot of stairs!
There are also rumors you won’t compete in the World Cup this year. True? Well, my main target is the World Championship in summer. I might compete on some World Cup stages, but I won’t compete in the whole circuit, neither in lead nor in bouldering.
Why? I’m just motivated for rock climbing! After the last year full of competitions, I feel like I had enough and deserve some time without them.
Too much rock climbing, makes you weak. fact
He might have bailed out of the competition scene,
but then another 5.14c onsight to soothe everyones nerves...
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight) :smirk:
sharma is the king!
sharma is the king!
Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.
Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent. (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/)
http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf)
After winning overall Gold at the 2011 World Championships in Arco Adam Ondra commented that he was going to spend the rest of the year focusing on bouldering
“still beaten by first round first minute” - DuckoYou must have high expectations for him if you think he’s been “beaten” after a couple of quick plays at the end of a week trip in August. Did you expect him to onsight it? I'm quite sure he'll be back on this at some point.
“when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world” - BaldyMonkey Wedding took him 4 days – longer than Chilam Balam… Then again it took Paul Robinson 10 days so it’s a flippin great effort. Livin Large or some of the “big move” problems like Sky may be more challenging – or maybe not? As you say – will be interesting to see how he gets on. If everything does go easily, then I’m sure there’s still lots of great projects to get on.
“bouldering does seem a bit pointless *gasp* for him” - BaldyFar from it. As he’s said himself, arm strength and big campussy moves on sloping holds are his biggest weakness. Think he’s probably avoided doing stuff like this until recently because it can cause problems and injuries for teenagers still growing. But now he clearly knows it’s a relatively weak point. He’s been training to improve it. And some time spent focussing on bouldering could lead to massive rapid gains - whereas gains in things you are already great at are much harder to come by. If he can combine Sharma or Woods’ arm and dynamic strength with his own ridiculous finger strength, technique, endurance and all round climbing ability – then I think 9c routes will be just around the corner. And ridiculous as it sounds, if he stays psyched, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see 10a within the decade.
Back Diamond : Adam Ondra Reports from the boulders of Rocklands South Africa (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa)
oops..the link helps
What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.
Probably compared to how he feels he could be.
As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.
Scary if you think about it.
Scary if you think about it.
But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?
Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.
Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.
He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.
bouldering...he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.
I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city.
Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):
http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752 (http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752)
(http://www.czechclimbing.com/fotos/fil10324.jpg)
I don't see the family resemblence myself.
So possibly the hardest problem in the world is an unispiring looking, shitty, polished limestonetraverseLakeland/ Lancastrian Roof?
Bravo!!
Apparently he's super close to doing Goia. Resting today. More attempts tomorrow.
15 mins, possibly 8A+ as Chris thought, sit is another level, 8C+ for sure
any news?
Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..
What's next?
Well, first I'm off to do some bouldering in Fontainebleau
Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..
Some good pics here http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+ (http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+)
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."
no comment.
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."
no comment.
Willackers fb'd he'd done la Merveille a couple of days ago, wonder if he bumped into him (waddage to Will - lankster) ;)
His tick list from his first day in the forest is mental! :jaw: :bow:
Adam Ondra flashes Gecko Assis (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/adam-ondra-flashes-gecko-assis-8b)
awesome effort from Gore :bow:
the article is shocking.
we are witnessing something historical with Ondra.
I got that impression, but my French is virtually non existant.
I got 8B+ FLASH of gecko assis!!
Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)
My favourite line from the translation:
"As any climber obtuse, I think back to the previous day where I could free myself. The balls."
Compelling stuff ;)
I am excited for when Ondra runs out of hard stuff to repeat
He's proposed 8B for Gecko Assis on 8a.nu........ :worms:
« L’insoutenable légèreté de l’être » failed flash Les conditions sont atrocement humides. Le réta, très sale, est infaisable. Il abandonnera peu de temps après. Il commence à faire un temps pas génial.
The conditions are atrociously damp. The ??, very dirty and infeasible. He gave up soon afterwards as the weather was beginning to become very unpleasant.
So, The Wizard's Apprentice. Soon.
yeh nice one, tall guy with gangly arms thinks a long moves easy.
back to ondrawad :chair:
I didn't do one move, a match of the underclings where Scottish climber Malcolm Smith could even chalk up for the camera of Heinz Zak! A year later, early one morning on the last day of my England trip, I tried hard and could indeed feel a significant difference thanks to some time spent on the campus board, but despite being close I failed. Strong Britons!
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:
http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)
Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD :-\
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:
http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)
Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD :-\
I get a malware detection going through to pay using Opera-11.60.1185 , but it does redirect to a 'PayPal .com' site:-\
The film in one sentence: "We follow young Adam Ondra as he is trying to break in to the 9b grade".
stalking allopathy up to scratch
Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?
Am I missing something? That R+I review is hilarious!
:wall:
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?
Showing your age there...... ;)
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?
Showing your age there...... ;)
As Short Round said it's because of his resemblence toSu Pollard(http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386) Harry Potter.
wish i could get Ondras screeching as a ring tone!
Not everyone has phones that feature apps though. :slap:
I have a phone with a numeric keypad :D. I use it to phone people and sent texts.
01001001 01100110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011 01100101 01100100 00100000 01101111 01110101 01110100 00100000 01110111 01101000 01100001 01110100 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01111001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 01101110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100111 01110010 01100101 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01100100 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01101101 01100101 00100001 00100000 00111010 00101001
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.
The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.QuoteAfter restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.
The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice... ;)
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.Yeah! The Skype interviews were really nice, to see someone who despite all the big numbers is just excited about doing good bouldering. I like that almost as much as your double quote, but not quite.
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice... ;)
I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?
I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.:) nope, but theres a market ;)Quote from: JaspersharpeOndra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice... ;)
Don't be ridiculous, it's easy.
Video #3: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35330426)
What is so nice about climbing is that you don't have to be necessarily the strongest to climb the best. You can always find tons of climbers who are physically able to climb really hard, but don't climb efficiently.
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x)
on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).
a cheat stone... really?!?!
On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ... :w00t:
I believe the initial small bolt has to be placed 100% on lead without skyhooks etc
Nice. Had to google that.
On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ... :w00t:
Were they Ruby Red?
And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
We're not in Kalymnos anymore, Toto
I also recall that there are some bizarre and scary additional rules: first bolt has to be at 10m, bolts have to be spaced 4m ... something like that (I forget the exact detail).
This one shows the successful redpoint.At 6 minutes....after a load of edit-out-able attempts! Pity they didn't have a cameraman in the tree as the climbing you can see looks cool.
Adam Ondra climb, To tu ještě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí.
exactly it gave him psyche, he didnt say what would ondra do.I'd imagine thast's why finbarr clarified, for the hard of thinking: PARAPHRASED the SUBTEXT
9a+ apparently (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39649)
(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/12405.jpg)
When's he going for the realization flash??
That's Orgon.
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.
That report is from 9am!!! http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a)
I demand answers! :furious:
timestamp is wrong
He fell at last crux.
Gabri Moroni has just commented, "Ondra is a punter" (on Crackbook). Do I take this to mean that Potter has dropped it?yes
See Adam's post. No live stream, but live FB updates.
whos this ali guy he looks pretty good at climbing ::)
God effort anyway.
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.
bear in mind the effort he will have put in for the flash will have left him spannered for the rest of the day, then again he does do multiple hard shit in a day quite regularly
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.
God effort anyway.
Devine!
Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.He's not exploring, he's only trying to find sometthing he hasn't already climbed.
Needs to get back to The Tor then.
Certainly getting some practice in....
Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)
Sounds like he's done his project
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Can't wait to see the video.
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.
Is everyone too :o to type?
Nice r-man
Nice r-man
Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?
You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?
Nice r-man
Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?
You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?
I hope not, the first one took forever.I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Not much to add! the ascent speaks for itself!Can't wait to see the video.
Ditto, might have to wait for the next adam ondra film....
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Suffice to say this is an astonishing achievement and I too would like to see the ascent. Is this the route there was a vid of him doing most of recently?
Requiem in 83 and Punks in the Gym in 84?Good points! Though was Requiem the first at its grade ... what is its accepted grade?
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.
First one on granite since then though?
Beth's new route; The Meltdown is reportedly "significantly harder than the Optimist" and could be 5.14c/F8c+. This would make it one of the very hardest traditional routes in the world, alongside Rhapsody and Cobra Crack and confirms Rodden's status as one of the worlds top traditional climbers.
I have astonishment fatigue
Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?
Waffle over. The future looks exciting.
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.
First one on granite since then though?
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.
It was granite before Ondra crushed it! *rubbish geologist joke*
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.
It was granite before Ondra crushed it! *rubbish geologist joke*
I thought it was pretty schist...Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.
It was granite before Ondra crushed it! *rubbish geologist joke*
Gneiss pun!
Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?
Waffle over. The future looks exciting.
What I want to know is who is going to confirm the grade!
"Sharma took a similarly long time to do his first big route Realization" - r-manNot sure about that - Ondra's done this in one season in around 20 days over 2 trips. Think Realization was an epic project for Sharma – tried it for ages over many years before finally doing it. Ondra has still never really had a properly long siege on anything.
"what I find interesting is how and if someone so far ahead of the rest can keep progressing." - r-manIn terms of redpointing Sharma’s still providing competition, which has got to help with the motivation for now at least. To me the big questions are how close to his limits and to the limits of the sport is he getting. My guess is that there's still a very long way to go with both, considering that he’s 19, and this is his first year of full time climbing, but who knows? It doesn’t seem unreasonable though that he could make massive progress in the next decade and climb 10a ish if he can find the right routes. But of course, a lot of that depends on how wide Ondra himself chooses to make 9b+, 9c etc.
"it will be great to see the younger kids race through Ondra's testpieces." - r-manMaybe. But to me, this is the other interesting question - How much of a one off is Ondra? Is he just the first of a long line of people who started climbing at a very young age with lots of talent. Or are we unlikely to see another Ondra for 50 years. To me the jury's still out on this... Clearly the likes of Enzo Oddo etc are very good climbers, but I don't really see anyone else doing quite what Ondra has done from the younger generation just yet? A combination of his talent, height, finger strength, sheer determination etc etc may be a pretty rare thing even in the long term. It may be that if Ondra stays psyched and fulfils his potential in the next decade that some of his testpieces aren't repeated for a very, very long time.
“Andrada has done lots of hard link up things in his cave, including at least one thing graded 9b+” – r-manMight be wrong on this, but think the potential 9b+ which gets mentioned in that cave (Picachu?) is still a project? Think the hardest two lines which Andrada has actually done in there, he’s given 9b? And don’t want to be harsh, but to be fair to Sharma / Ondra it’s perhaps worth pointing out that if you don’t count link up’s in caves, I think Dani’s hardest routes are around the 9a/9a+ mark (stuff like Definicion De Resistencia…)? Think same is true of Magnus Midtbo? Cave link ups / traverses always seem to be graded very optimistically – they’re so much easier to work, no fear factor, no / little rope drag, no / few clips, that for the same physical difficulty of moves, they are often much easier to actually climb.
“Historic” - DoyloIndeed. To me at least, I think it makes things clearer to separate out the traverses / long boulders / cave link ups etc (ie: Akira and the Ali Baba Cave etc). And when you do this, the history of sport climbing actually follows a vaguely sensible timeline… (Similar list to r-mans but different perspective):
Maybe. But to me, this is the other interesting question - How much of a one off is Ondra? Is he just the first of a long line of people who started climbing at a very young age with lots of talent. Or are we unlikely to see another Ondra for 50 years. To me the jury's still out on this... Clearly the likes of Enzo Oddo etc are very good climbers, but I don't really see anyone else doing quite what Ondra has done from the younger generation just yet? A combination of his talent, height, finger strength, sheer determination etc etc may be a pretty rare thing even in the long term.
I can't believe it – was, if my memory is right, the first words I said after clipping the anchor of this route. It is definitely the most rewarding feeling I have ever had after sending the route. I can't stop smiling, even now, typing these words. Despite the tough process of working the route, this can't be any sweeter. Not only because it is 9b+, a number which looks so strange typed on the screen.
The route can be divided into two pitches – 9a+/b (20m), nohand-rest and 9a (25m). The first pitch is bouldery – first twelve meters can be described as 8b route into 8B+ (some of the most crazy moves I have ever done) into 7B+. Above this, there is a bad kneebar, where I pull the rope down and the belayer starts belaying again. The rest of the first pitch is pretty easy. At the chains, there is a nohands rest, where you stand on good footholds in the vertical wall leaning with your head on the roof above (I did not find rest in summer).
The second pitch has a long power-endurance sequence of about 6 meters just above the first anchor, long moves, compression style and heelhooks including hard crimping as well. From here on, it is not more than 8b+, but tiring and neverending pumpfest, which offers numerous jugs to rest, but one is not able to recover there any more...
It is the route I've put the most effort into. It took me three weeks of trying in summer, two weeks in autumn. But I must say that sometimes it was a lot about waiting for the conditions to arrive, sometimes I went up the route only to find out it is was too damp and especially in autumn, when the temperature was excellent, but two holds were seeping in the upper part as it had been raining for three weeks straight prior to arrival.
Just the day of the send they finally got almost dry. I could do the single moves despite wetness, but it would be extremely difficult on the link. I have never got that high before sending it, but during the send I realized that I would definitely fall off if got in the previous conditions.
Regarding to grade, it has been a long dilemma. After sending the first pitch for a first time (after about 5 or 6 days), I thought that the first is merely 9a+ and the second pitch felt close as I could recover at the first chains pretty well. The ascent felt in grasp, but the more I tried it, the more I realized how hard the first pitch is on itself and how pumpy the second pitch is. The more I tried, the more the idea of 9b+ was buzzing in my head. The final decision was made two days before my ascent. My self-confidence was low down, the ascent a million miles way and I was playing with the idea that chances of doing this trip are dashed. As I though about it, it felt so much harder than any 9b's I have done so far, I put so much time into it, additionally it fits my style quite well, I told myself that it was going to be too hard for a 9b...
I realize right now how extremely lucky I was to find a line that turned out to be exactly on my limit. No waste of bolts only to find something impossible, just long hours of looking at the endless sea of Flatanger granite and good decision. I must say, in the end I did not choose the first line that struck my eyes at first glance, the most impressive one. This one is still in my mind, I'll probably give a look at it next year. But Change turned out to be exactly as I anticipated. Challenging with good movements, various styles of climbing. The only thing that spoils the route is the nohand-rest and the fact that it doesn't go to the top of the cave, or at least to the lip. I had an idea of trying a line to the top in one push, but in the end I found out that it is impossible due to rope drag and climbing with two ropes and having one rope already hanging in the wall is just too artificial. And climbing another pitch only to go to the top – that would be nice for the feeling, but a lot of work and no one would ever really climb, even though it could be world class 8c, as it is too complicated to jug up there. I really focused on finding a good spot to set the anchor, not in the middle of blank wall on bad crimp, but good ledge on the top of the obvious square-shaped feature.
The recent times and the route itself definitely changed myself a lot. I live a totally different life as I am not going to school anymore. The trying of it was an ever changing process. In the meantime, I learnt a lot, but I suppose that once I will start something new, I will make the same mistakes. The fight with your mind is the one you can win only temporarily. But one thing the route did not change – my desire for opening new routes. First ascents turned out to be as enjoyable and satisfying I had thought.
Whereas in bouldering, I think the potential for future progress is much more limited, and that limit is mainly imposed by the rock. There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t out there… Without hard bouldering just focussing on eliminates, I suspect the period of rapid improvements is nearly over. But in sport climbing, the properly hard routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain and elsewhere.
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.
I have no idea about relative difficulty of LA vs Hubble (and almost certainly never will, I'd back myself a lot more on Realisation than Hubble!) but regarding the LA grade I saw this Jerry quote the other day: "It's a tough route - nowadays it would undoubtedly be graded 8c+, no question about that."
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a
If LA was the UK's first 8c+ instead of the first 8c, what was the first 8c?
Apparently (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-514a) Ondra is flying out to Red River Gorge today. :popcorn:
All hard routes are currently in a state of DEFCON 1 meaning that absolute annihilation is imminent.
Ondra flashes Southern Smoke Direct (9a+/5.15a) with beta from Daniel Woods and John Cardwell.
Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".
:bow::strongbench::bow:
it was only a matter of time but still wow!!!!
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a)
Daniel Woods and Jon Cardwell have both been working the route
Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.
Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.
Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)
How young you talking ?
I have done much except this, first two days I was warming up, then I tried 24 Carats, 8c+, and came quite close to onsighting, whereas on Lucifer, 8c+, I was miles away and sent it 4th go. I hadn't thought I was in a good shape, unsure about what to do and whether to save the flashes and onsights for the next year, but luckily I didn't save at least that flash. The grade is definitely 9a (5.14d), I do think that all the guys who gave me the beta (Cedric, Daniel, Jon) agree with that.
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"
Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"
:yawn:Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"
I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.
Who does 9a putting the clips in!
The guy who onsights indian face.
Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states. ;)
Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states. ;)
Not all areas and let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades
YES. Very stoked for Adam. This is super impressive, and while he may be too strong to really know (probably), I think a little grade correction is long overdue in the Red - even if it is one of my routes getting downgraded... Nice work man.
let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades
DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.
I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.
I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.
If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).
At age 18 or so, Ondra's list of achievements is already so long that this thread goes to 35 pages.
But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.
Cool! Let me start the speculations.
1) If Change really is 9b+, a 9a o/s will surely follow. Is there any easy-to-read long 9a Ondra hasn't climbed yet?
2) Ondra will soon stop this cragging nonsense and move into alpinism. Only in the mountains will there be challenges left.
But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.
If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).
let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades
:yawn: That's about as relevant as Indian Face.
Exactly.
Also, absolutely no relevance to sport climbing grades and my shit joke which was about American sport grades being taken with a pinch of salt for over 20 years (anyone remember Boone Speed's Blackout?).
Someone take shark's spade off him. :P
If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).
with you on this
Is it a cliche??
otherwise we'd all be believing the spurious shite andi_e is mistakenly spouting as a counter-argument (are people really so wrapped up in their grade-chasing they can't perceive climbing otherwise?).
they'd be travelling around the world climbing stunning VDiffs.
one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.Congratulations, we have a winner.
It must be boring being that good at climbing!
..... he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game :P
Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be.
Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.
doublefail.
Adam is regarding it as a "lifetime project." Sources state that the new line has approximately four V14 boulder problems on it.
Comes across as a nice and increasingly eloquent guy.Yeah, let's hope he stays off the weed and doesn't end up a babbling/ vocabulary-constrained stoner like the entire late 90's/ 00's generation of hard US climbers.
And when exactly did he find time to nail English anyway?
cutlurewad
The transformation will be complete when he drops the term 'smashed it in' into his next interview.
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:
http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:
http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)
Bloody great, shows just how ace onsighting is and just how ace Ondra is (and the route for that matter). I love his committment to some of the bad holds moves. Also shows how utterly important not being scared of falling is - whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??
whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??
Today, Adam Ondra fell on the last move on the last crux half way up on the 50 m La Dura Dura. "He screamed as usual but you could here he was pleased, excited and very confident. Today was kind of shitty conditions. He dominated Oliana today and for sure he will send it this weekend with better conditions. It was so cool...", says a very impressed fan.
But he needs to do it fast as Chris Sharma who bolted it has also made nice progress passing the first part... "The bottom is like a series of really specific moves and really fucked up climbing on bullshit holds....", continues the fan. Ondra has said that possibly it is even harder than The Change, 9b+ and this is his fifth trip only dedicated to it.
Is it only I who fail to see how "climbers attempting to get up a route" is of general interest?
(I have a hard time understanding the general interest around the Dawn Wall project as well)
Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.
4 trips now this 'Dura Dura' has held off what is unquestionably the two strongest climbers of this generation and the next. :bounce:
I dont understand how you can possibly not be interested in this if you claim to have any interest in climbing...
Even if these things arent happening to me, it is enjoyable to live through them vicariously.
Stop being a party pooper. :spank:
And that sort of stuff is precisely what turns a lot of people off of those sports and perhaps towards climbing. There is a lot of bullshit talked around a lot of sports, e.g. football, title matches in boxing. What does it serve purpose for? To increase interest and get people to pay to watch it.
Nonce Sense, you've no idea what the next generation will bring. Plus I'd imagine Sharma, who lives out in Spain and bolted the line, has spent more than 4 trips on it.
Some people climb for themselves rather than vicariously and have no interest in what others are up to.
Its not shitting on your party to ask a question.
Ondra is 19 years old, and at present is continuing to improve. While I agree that other younglings are tearing up the rule books on what was perceived to be possible in the non too distant past, I dont think it is remotely unreasonable to suggest that he (provided he doesnt give up/burnout) will continue to be one of the sports strongest climbers for many years to come.
I am suggesting that if jwi is going to the pub with some mates, I would consider him a bit of a dick -Nay! a 'party pooper'- if he tried to pull that sort of attitude while everyone is talking about how in awe they are.
Surely most climbers are interested in the process, not just the resulting name and grade?+1
Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.
cringe worthy, half hearted shout of 'psyche' at 1:50.
That looks amazing.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr
:bow: :bow: :bow:
i don't know how anyone with an interest in the progress of our sport can fail to be be interested in the progress being made on this route.
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this firsthe is not going to though is he? Ondra is clearly miles ahead no?
Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
It is/was a decent vid (with 720p and 1080p options for playback on YouTube) and was using a tripod so probably not that.
Clearly, because amateurs never take HD camcorders or tripods to the crag these days, and easyclimbing.cz has high-profile partnerships with both climbers.
Not that I'm saying this is certainly an amateur job, it just looks like it probably is.
In any case, none of this should concern you, because it is distasteful, needless hype-building and no one has actually climbed anything yet.
I didn't say I wasn't interested in the process.
Just playing the Devil's Avocado again?
Cliff Burton was an amazing bass player....until the tour bus he was travelling in crashed throwing him out the window and crushing him when it toppled onto him.
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this firsthe is not going to though is he? Ondra is clearly miles ahead no?
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.
Fantastic display of controlled aggression for the leap at 4:25 or so...
Impressive trip! 9b+ and 9b...!
Two 8cs onsight in Cuenca
:agree:
Someone needs to stop him.
He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?
:agree:
Someone needs to stop him.
He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?
And pushing merightleft out the bottom.
The fucking Indian Face :wall:
Its like the climbing version of Godwin's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin's_law) isn't it.
nothing happened except clipping the chains of my hardest route up to date, and possibly the hardest in the world!
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)
Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)
Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.
Post take:
Now, I am 2/3 the way through the climb. I have already climbed 20 meters of overhanging 9a/+; however, from here to the chain is 8 meters of 9a. In all, it could be 9+. perhaps this means 9b+? I think it needs even more work to send, but it's motivating. It's a good line with good movement - it motivates me to train and to return. It's difficult to compare with La Dura Dura because they are completely different styles. This is much more of an endurance climb because you have to do a very hard sequence at the top of the climb. While the crux of Dura Dura was harder, it was down low, while this one is at the top
Commence climbing
It's a big lateral movement to a sloper. You have a bunch of feet, but they're all terrible. After, there is a big move to a crimp with a thumbcatch. It's very difficult when you're tired to grab it perfectly, and if you don't grab it perfectly, you can't do anything off it. The crimp is very bad.
Voice-over stops, then he falls
The most difficult single movement is down low - because I'm fesh, it feels much easier then when I'm up here, super pumped. Here is the key section to the route. You get here super pumped and even though here there are two crimps that are good enough, you can't rest much. I think it's better to run it to the top. Here is a flat sidepull and here there are many feet to choose from, but now I don't know which are the best. Down low, there are good feet to make a move to pinch this crimp, but it's very hard to catch it perfectly. If I use the low feet, it's really hard to move them up - alternatively, if I start with the high feet, it's way harder to catch the pinch/crimp, but it's much easier to move my feet up aferwords. After, there are two dynmaic movements where you can definitely fall. All this to get yourself to the anchor not sure about the lest sentence. It sounds like he says "A un presento al fin" ... I dunno
Makes the moves and clips the chains
Resting, it's easy. After climbing the whole route... I don't know whn the next [estancia] is. Perhaps when his next trip is? Hopefully in two weeks. I don't know if I will be able to send, but I'm excited and hopeful
Incredible.
Some mad Quarryman-esque action around 6:00
If these were outtakes from The Wizard's Apprentice then somebody's editing judgement is really called into question.
From Montura's Facebook page:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004058_581445771907129_2024218066_n.jpg)
“It was my challenge for more than two years”, with these words Adam Ondra has announced his first 9a onsight. The route is called “Cabane au Canada” on the cliff of Rawyl, Switzerland. Another great achievement made by the Montura athlete, who once again amazes us with his talent, diligence and determination.
:bow:
I thought he might run out of onsightable 9as to try. Glad he got oneme too, fantastic :clap2:
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)
I saw it for the first time last night, in the last rays of sun it looked absolutely amazing and I knew I just had to climb it. I was so excited I couldn't fall asleep, even though I knew I had to wake up early.Good lad :)
Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't that worried because I then found out that it wasn't even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.
that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad
Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263)
Tough crowd!
Adam Ondra attempting the upper crux on the new project at Flatanger in Norway. Photo by Seb Bouin
Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.
Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.
In the cave there is basically around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s, soft 9bs etcHTH. Sounds really nice, good report.
Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.
For the lazy among us, have you got any links?
Whats the area like for walks/MTB/Fishing etc?
I do not have the technical ability to link to a facebook page sorry.[/url]
At the top of your browser is an address bar that starts with 'http://', copy this when looking at the relevant page (whether its Farcebook or anything else). Click on the line, then press Ctrl + A to select it all followed by Ctrl + C to copy it.
Then paste it into a forum message (Ctrl + V to paste).
Hit submit and the link will appear in your post.
Tried that and it didnt work only the links came up. Tried something else and got this. Think it works but you have to click to open.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1175549_430908887023728_301845164_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/972336_430908763690407_1751973782_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/561536_430908670357083_1734809742_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002494_430908547023762_979018419_n.jpg
9b or 9b+ FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger
On his last day in Flatanger, Adam Ondra made the FA of Move and it will be either 9b or 9b+. Now Adam is going to start his University studies
If he bulked up a bit and got stronger in the body, Ondra could climb harder.
The route can be divided into two sections; 35m of pumpy 9a, and then 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad...
In total, the 20 year old has now done 82 9a's and harder, which is more than double than the runner up, Chris Sharma, on this list. The number of 9a+ and harder is 28, out of which 19 is FAs.
Since you asked...since 2008 he's held pretty steadily at around 12.5 grade 9s per year. Assuming he doesnt go on a binge and start doing 30 9as in a year he'll have done about 330 9s by the time he's 40 (guessing a fair chunk of those will have to be FAs!)
I cant see him coming back soon unless Steve does his thing at Malham. He loved malaham and Kilnsey but generally thought that Ravens tor was "a pile of shit" or something along those lines.
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just on crack.
I wanted to write a response revolving around the fact that one can't kneebar his way up Hubble, but being a gentleman, I won't.Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just on crack.
Couple of years old I think.
god supernova looks rubbish...
god supernova looks rubbish...
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).
Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.
I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour
Any other confirmed 8C+ problems in the world?Splitting hairs here, but are people classing Gioia as confirmed 8C+? Core originally suggested 8C (http://www.climbing.com/news/possible-v15-in-italy/), Ondra suggested 8C+ (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D8161).
Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.Would have been better if he'd done the voice...
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).
You sure he wasn't referring to Terranova?
Would have been better if he'd done the voice...Uncle Ben's "With Great Power comes Great Responsibility" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o308cW0hKI#ws)
"With great power comes great responsibility"
"With great power comes great responsibility"I'm pretty sure Yoda never said this. Spiderman's uncle on the other hand.
I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...
:jab:That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...
Seem I remember he didn't have anything good to say about Livin Large either...
I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though :ras:
Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock.
Adam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)
No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).
he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.
Nah, it's classic Yank ego. Sharma was the first to do9a+,5.15 a so therefore the others don't exist. ;D
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.
Which is sort of ironic.
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.
Which is sort of ironic.
It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.
I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)
Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.
I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond
Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?
Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 9b+, a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic.
According to his 8a-scorecard, it's a short route which starts with a 7 meter burly 8b section the leads straight into an 8B+ boulder section. It's more or less a "one move route" as the key move is at least 8B in its own right.
Adam also says it's by no means a great line, but rather painful and short, and in a dirty place "but it was there... and I couldn't leave it unclimbed".
This was Adam's third 9b+ first ascent, after Change andLa Dura Dura.
Is that a path?
The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.
9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...
Is that apathy?
damn you ukc
''It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" ''ha would love to see him on the ormes thou
Love this attitude, he should visit the cave.
someone send him a picture of Brandenburg gate. So if he will come for that then he can finally tick hubble as a warm up
He's already said he can't do the crux of Hubble. I'd prefer him not to attempt it again so I can still say I've burnt off the best climber in the world in a really random, obscure and basically incorrect way.
Before his evening lecture Ondra ended the day by attempting Effetti Colaterali but he fell, twice. It's worth noting that this is a tough 8c, that it was already dark and that Ondra was climbing with a headtorch...
Before his evening lecture Ondra ended the day by attempting Effetti Colaterali but he fell, twice. It's worth noting that this is a tough 8c, that it was already dark and that Ondra was climbing with a headtorch...
*awesome photo of Ondra on La Dura Dura*
I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to-do list for a much less impressive version of the same contrived reason.
Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.
Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.
9b+ climber redpoints 9b shock ;)
I'd just like to confirm that I also didn't do Hubble today.
:smart:
Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.
J
:smart:
Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.
J
Not much of a drama when you climb 9b+
Neil Gresham's Facebook status -
"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."
Neil Gresham's Facebook status -
"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."
Hyperbolic twaddle anyone?
Is this not describing "getting in a quick session before work?"
In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."
Stop hating on the G. :clown:
Love to all the G's :-*
The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly
The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly
I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.
is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?
I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.
Yes absolutely, is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble? That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble? That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.
Yes and yes
Has everyone missed the bombshell in that write-up or am i grossly out of touch and it is old news?
AFAIK it is the first time that it gets 'confirmed' that Hubble is 9a. I know, he hasn't done it yet, it was humid and hot, etc. but... :worms:
All right. I thought last time he said it was 'likely' 9a. All i can find is The world's first 8c+, which could be easily even 9a in my opinion
Oh well, back under my bridge
Or E10 7b actually.
Nobody ever questioned the 8B+ grade. Or E10 7b actually.
can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?
No surprise as he's got a sense of history.
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble? That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.
Yes and yes
As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?
Onsighting is gooooood :2thumbsup:
Should it be encased in liquid amber? Or woven into a beanie?
As much chance as (allegedly) weaving platinum group metals into it. I can imagine the Ondrafibretm being able to extert enough force that even the most "heavily built" climber is compressed so their mass is reduced to that of the flyweight master himself.
like me onsighting a VS slab
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.
Jas, next time you're up Yorkshire way give me a shout - I seem to remember this being pretty slabby...happy to hold your ropes and you can even borrow my size 4 and 5 cams!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158)
Look forward to videoing the ascent (and ensuing colourful language) - I don't have any thrash metal to soundtrack the video with, so we'll have to make do with Fleetwood Mac or Phil Collins.
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.
95 grade 9's
95 grade 9's
Several of which are 9b's or 9b+'s, of which Megos has done none (I think?)
95 grade 9's
For all his 9a onsights and 9b red points he still hasn't done Hubble circa 1990 Benjamin "the daddy" moon
95 grade 9's
Make that 96.
That's 4 9's in 4 consecutive days. :blink:
Tangential thought: despite being the 'best climber in the world' for quite a while, Sharma didn't give us the first of any grade (probably, possibly?). Not that that really matters.
the best of the rest put together probably don't seem to match this frequency of hard ascents. I exaggerate, but not that much.
Wasn't Realization the first 9a+? At least the first without a whiff of controversy
Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).
Controversies aside.
At the time I had a subscription to Desnivel, and despite the fact that they ran the news about Fernandez's routes, they also ran interviews to other climbers, and basically no one believed him. We were still far from the days of "it's either on video or it did not happen" but still, he gave few details of the ascents.
Andrada thought he never actually climbed Chilam. He went there and tried it, and despite the fact that Fernandez had affirmed having tried the route for more than a year, he could not find neither chalk nor rubber marks in any place.
This is what I read.
Bit like j.dunne, maybe you could only climb hard if your were part of the in-crowd?
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?
First claimed 9a+: Orujo, Archidona, Spain. Climbed as 9a in 1998 by Bernabé Fernández, reclimbed after removing 3 of its four artificial holds the grade went up to 9a+. Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).
+1. I've never been good on routes; I thought all the moves on Austrian Oak as an example were pretty easy, but never got close to linking it as only ever trained to boulder and train on a board, ran out of steam way before the topOnce you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?
Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
+1. I've never been good on routes; I thought all the moves on Austrian Oak as an example were pretty easy, but never got close to linking it as only ever trained to boulder and train on a board, ran out of steam way before the topOnce you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?
Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
Twitter rumours or disinformation hint at the great long necked one being back on Hubble... So I may be either breaking news or breaking bullshit :)
http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight)
Onsight of Il Dominia.
:popcorn:
you lot have no morals,he blatantly touched that tree
Ondra not so wad appears to have failed to qualify for the semis in Chamonix. According to the scores on iSFC twitter feed he fell of the 3rd move of the 1st route.
Must have the footwork of Mark Leach.
Since he got a coach he seems to be going down hill in the comps.
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=4196 :popcorn:6)
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=4196 :popcorn:6)
Now that is pretty cool! Old school! Who goes to Volx these days?!
"no one has ever onsighted a route of this difficulty dates back to before 2000." When asked for further explanation, Ondra pointed out "Well, it's always seemed to me that all the routes I've done that date back to the 90's are really tough for the grade, that's why I really wasn't expecting to onsight it. "
Somebody sent "Biographie" in Ceuse today!
For your viewing (dis)pleasure, the mistake which got him disqualified from the cham wc:
https://vimeo.com/102146282
There's going to be a lot of climbers that can now say that they beat Ondra in competition.
Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105151286)
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.
not heavy for my height, of course; losing weight would not be wise in my case
He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to himI bet it's not Patxi, it's the :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:
Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:
My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.
Thoughts?
I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions
fuck.
It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".
New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently
I better warn my pants!
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.
Which films are these? Would love to give them a watch
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.
With sixty-eight 9a, twenty 9a+, nine 9b and three 9b+ already in the bag 9c cannot be too far off?
Sharma must be close. The only other climber with a substantial number of 9bs100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.
Incredible achievement, would be interesting to know who is in second place for ticking grade 9's? Ramon has done 38 according to 8a
The runner up on this exclusive list are Ramonet and Dani Andrada with around 40 and Chris Sharma with some 35.
Hubble ... Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)QuoteHubble ... Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)Once again I as impressed by his eloquence, positivity, and love for climbing, as all the big numbers.
Not quite as bad as Mcclure downplaying his finger strength.
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer..
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer..
Why do you think that? A quick google search shows Ondra worked it for 11 days. Nalle was apparently close in the first week, then had to wait for rain before doing it the next week.
Ondra isn't the only beast training hard!
Ondra has made a point of repeating lots of older routes and Nalle seems to be doing the same on the boulders with Gioia, Bugeleisen, Emotional Landscapes etc.
Then there's Woods, with 19 8C's! Possibly even more impressive than Ondra's 100 - it's a huge quantity of ascents at pretty much the top grade in bouldering, whereas Ondra has only done 12 9b/+.
There's no real debate though here is there, Ondra has done all of the very hardest routes and all of the very hardest boulder problems.
Where there are 8c boulders he hasn't done it's because he hasn't tried them rather than failing on them. He has the hardest flash to date and has proven that he's no slouch on multi pitch routes etc.
And of course I've failed on many more boulder problems, since in bouldering it's easier to come across certain one-movers that dk!on't suit my style, or perhaps the line doesn't inspire me enough to keep trying. But one day I might be back!
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?
routes, that is
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?
I must be the strongest boulderer out there then as Ionsightedflashed that side of L'angle Allain...... :tease:
8c - 67%
I consider myself being a little bastard in a certain way, because I just climb and get paid for it but I don’t give anything to society, I don’t produce anything or offer a service.:lol:
in my opinion, it is impossible to train more than 4 hours a day, because your skin doesn’t allow you to do more.... thinking 24/7 about climbing is harmful and doesn’t make you climb harder
Boom. Gypsy Blood, 8c+ in Santa Linya.On sight, of course
Son #2 and I arrived in time to witness his second try. Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.Was JuniorHabrich firing foam darts at Ondra by any chance?
Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.
Dreamcatcher starts from the "room" between boulders where the Singularity is located, so Ondra must at least have looked at it.Yeah thats why I asked.
Update: apparently he did try it.:o
I wonder why he keeps using Speedsters.
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)
:spam:Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)
Quite possibly the most anticlimactic video ever.
Great interview with Ondra just posted today:
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838 (https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838)
I'd say hell yeah! Links? Story?
Edit (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69764)
A few details on 8a.nu
A few details on 8a.nu
How helpful of you to link to them. ;)
Ondra has together with many of the Boulder World Cup guys spent a day in RMNP where he needed just some few attempts to do White noise 8C, flashed Bear toss 8B and made a 8B+ FA. © Chad Greedy (Instagram) (copied from 8a.nu)
8B, 8B+ and 8C all in the same day is flippin' ridiculous. One could be extremely proud of this as a lifetime's achievement at the almost cutting edge. That guy is another level of beast.One could be proud of each one of those feats as a single lifetime achievement...
"One of us on the holds/Oh Johnny G"......
He's flashed Jade.
Congrats to Adam Ondra on flashing Jade (V14) today ... the world cup stuff is kinda cool, but this is what makes Adam a legend (https://twitter.com/EveningSends/status/607757361999015936)
He's flashed Jade.:jaw: Class of his own on rock.
He's flashed Jade.
video on the island website (apologises for lack of embedding)
https://www.island.io/island/adam-ondra-flashes-in-rmnp
Ondra power scream (it scared the cat..);D
After seeing him flailing on those stupid comp problems this puts it in perspective. THAT'S what's it's all about!!
Amazing. Its great to see someone as good as Graham feeling the same as us normal folks do when someone better than you pisses up your test piece.
Is someone going to
flash your proj?
|
|
|
are you Alex Megos?——-yes--->Nobody is not going to flash your proj
| (but stop Adam from trying)
|
|
no
|
|
\/
are you Adam Ondra?——-yes--->Nobody is not going to flash your proj
|
|
no
|
|
\/
Somebody will flash
your proj.
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.
When is he ever not psyched?
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.
When is he ever not psyched?
Does anybody know if Martin is OK?
Crazy DG hasn't done JadeI thought dave finally did it last year or year before?
It makes it much better with Graham being there. There's footage of him trying it in 2001.
Love DG trying to hide a spliff after the ascent :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3_YVu5B44&feature=youtu.be
terrible, incomplete vid...
In the absence of any 3degs footage here's a video of OndraAlways nice to watch him, on almost anything.climbingshaking out a lot to 80s pr0n music, made even better by the commentator at 3:08:
For a moment there i didn't think we were even going to get a power scream.Yeh, it was all a bit casual for the first 2/3rds.
Why do I find it hard to get my head around the fact he's only 23!! He seems to have been around for decades...
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.
Yes, frightening :o
As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.
Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.
Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?
Thanks for posting that one up Slackers ;D
Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.
- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.
Anyone know what crag that is?I think it's just down the valley from St Leger - called Mollans maybe?
Another 9a+ FA to add to the list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70536
Ondra did the FA of a new 9b in Alternativna stena, in Slovakia today. Named it "Robin Ud".
Then onsighted an 8c+ in the same day...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLMaVL3h_wO/?taken-by=adam.ondra
Vid of him trying some moves:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLKFn66As_W/?taken-by=adam.ondra
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
slightly weird video
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..Doubt it. Sharma's project innit. And he sounds heavily invested so unlikely to be giving it away. If the narrative from the dura dura movies is to be believed (no reason not to), sharma had pretty much abandoned the route and then only got inspired to get back on it after (presumably) 'letting' ondra give it a spin.
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.
Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..Doubt it. Sharma's project innit. And he sounds heavily invested so unlikely to be giving it away. If the narrative from the dura dura movies is to be believed (no reason not to), sharma had pretty much abandoned the route and then only got inspired to get back on it after (presumably) 'letting' ondra give it a spin.
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.
Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!
Ye but what's he ever done at Pot Hole Quarry.
the Czech Republic is just next door, so he should be OK.
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..
Bjorn Pohl reckoned Ondra had done 17 9b or harder after he did that FA the other day, so 18 after Lapsus. That also means he's done 45 routes 9a+ or harder... Has anyone else even done half that?
WTF? Where's Ondra? I can watch people climbing seven-zeez in the gym seven days a week.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI)It's on now
Will Adam be able to do it?
Will find out in a bit.
Breaking in some new boots back at the ranch, his solutions look incredibly tight.
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.
Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487
Great but unsurprising. 9b+ rp = 9a+ flash. :whistle:what a slacker, if that's the science he should be flashing 9b by now
I’ve been thinking about trying to flash a 9a+ for quite a long time but the problem is to find the perfect route because there are not so many 9a+ routes in the world. And at the same time there are not so many 9a+ routes that I had not tried before and that are good routes to flash - meaning that are not super complicated and super tricky.
I saw this route two years ago and it seemed like a perfect candidate to me so I had it in my mind and waited for the right moment. This year we went for a long trip to St. Leger here in France and I thought this was the time.
Nevertheless, I had a lot of doubts whether I should or shouldn’t go for it. I wasn’t very confident because I thought that the route is so resistant, and I did so much climbing without any rest, and I was wondering if I was really fit enough to do it. And there were moments during this trip when I was sure that I would not try it because I felt like it would be a waste. Because, you know, - on a flash you have only one go. Once you try it, it’s not possible to try the same route again as it would always be a second go.
In the end, I decided to call Bernardo, he came here to film, so at that point I could not really back away from it. I just had to give it a try. I took two rest days which definitely helped. As I was warming up, I started to feel more confident that it could actually work out.
Then I started climbing according to the perfect beta of Quentin Chastagnier who gave me all the beta. He bolted the route so it was very very important. The first half of the route, I was just flying up the route. It was like I was feeling cosmically strong and that boosted my confidence a lot. Only towards the second half of the route were there a couple of moments where I felt like I was losing my confidence a bit because there were two pockets where my fingers were just too fat to dig deeper but I still somehow made it and then I had just enough energy to do the last hard move on the very top.
Getting to the anchor was really emotional and I see this 9a+ definitely as one of the best accomplishments that I have ever done. This was really hard especially mentally due to the reasons I explained before - there are very few routes that are good candidates to be flashed and you always have only one go.
Good interview on planetmountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-interview-after-worlds-first-9a-plus-flash-at-st-leger-in-france.html). €0.01 for Megos' thoughts.
How does Ondra sustain this output? Just incredible.
As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way.
As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way.
I've never felt more ashamed to not be a spaceman.
Not a bad day to finish off a trip.
Back home from France, the last day in St Leger was just pure fun.
- Panique au poulailler 8a onsight
- Ousama 8b+ failed onsight in the last meter
- La Hyene 8b+ onsight
- Les Abdominables 8b 2nd go (slipped from wet pocket on my onsight try)
- Les Intermutans du Spectacle 8b+ onsight
- Chipolatas et Jacuzzi 8b+ onsight
- Diagonal du Duboc 8b/b+ 1st go (shares the finish with previous one, so no onsight)
- Foetus trou du cus 8b/b+ onsight
I'd pay good money to watch a Moonboard death match between Ondra and Megos.
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.
Re the crack climbing specialist point. I find it amazing that people think this. He spent 4 years on this, specific training, numerous trips and even a speciaist physio to work on aspects of climbing that are pretty unique. Do you not think that if it was possible to jam it at an easier grade he would have just spent a load of time learning how to.
I can't be the only one who felt, on seeing the end of the route being a heel-hook shake out and then one hard move to an arbitrary clip on a vertical bit of the cave, that it was a bit of an anti-climax to the world's hardest route.
I wasn’t replying to your comment, which I had read, I was responding to a number of comments on here and also that I have heard elsewhere. If you could jam this route he would have done so.
Having watched that video, I am renewing my membership in the Church Of Ondra (not that I really intended to let it lapse either). Great stuff. His professional support network is impressive too, the guy is not fucking around there either. And as GME said, the amount of rock above Silence Pitch 1 is shocking :)
Like Duncan I was surprised when I realised I was watching the successful attempt. I'd say that's a very good thing though...
I can't be the only one who felt, on seeing the end of the route being a heel-hook shake out and then one hard move to an arbitrary clip on a vertical bit of the cave, that it was a bit of an anti-climax to the world's hardest route.
That should be read for what it is - my honest feeling on watching. Not any sort of armchair criticism. Ondra's one of the few heroes in climbing.
It might actually be cooler that it's some minging non-line to a completely arbitrary finish.
All of the routes in the cave just stop in the middle of nowhere due to there length. This thing is already 50m long which surely is long enough for a single pitch. If you want to extend it do it as another pitch which would be at least another 80m.
Also the flat bit of rock it finishes at is the caves version of a ledge.
Shame all of steve mcs routes all have stupid finishes on a flat bit of rock. Someone should tell him to go and finish them off. Biography has also just been used for reference yet this doesn't top out either just stops at a random big flat bit.
I thought the whole film was superb. The only thing i was disappointed in was not seeing it from the start.
Its the not topping out comments i dont get, thought i had strayed onto UKC.
Your reference to "best climber" is such a general claim - which I'm not trying to dispute - but there will be those climbers, better than Ondra at certain things.
Baffles me that people are looking at a video of the undisputed best climber in the world (and I mean best, not strongest), on the hardest route in the world, and basically saying "he'd find that way easier if he could jam"
GME, while I agree with most of what you said...I'm pretty sure I read somewhere (or was it not a short part in the video) where the physio actually did offer movement advice?
Small point....
If however i see someone at the crag with a physio lying on the ground squirming through a visualization technique for any route lass than 9b i will humiliate them mercilessly.
Ondra on his plans for 2018, 2019 and 2020 (the World championships, Yosemite and Tokyo).
https://livellozero.net/en/adam-ondra-salathe-on-sight-attempt-and-training-for-the-olympics-2020/
as well as 'second go flashing' a 9a+, which he downgraded to 9a.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlEDlC_hYcU/?taken-by=adam.ondra
I think the "flashed" in quotes is pretty clear - not really a flash, but fell off at 4th bolt (on 45m 9a+) lower back down and then did the route clean with out having been on the rest of the route (assume . Not a bad effort(!!) - just retaining the psyche to try to do it after failure low down is pretty impressive.
Honour and Glory. Amazing 45m line up in Collosseum, scenic crag high above the town of Canmore was one of the reasons why I went to Canada. One of the few 9a+ (5.15a) that looked flashable and I still had not tried it.
Put up by @hauonearth last year, really tremendous effort to open and clean this line into this gem.
Yesterday was a special day. @hauonearth and @miles_adamson was there to share the beta with me (thank you so much!), @bigupclimbing @bernartwood and @sonnietrotter were there to film this for @reelrock . I felt ready. I set off and I felt awesome, just flowing up the route. Yet very soon, at 4th bolt it was all over. I did not want to waste my energy drying up my hand after touching a wet hold, as a good hold was getting closer, and this hand slipped. I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go.
As for the grade though, my opinion is that it fits more into 9a (5.14d) range.
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.
We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+... :no:
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.
We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+... :no:
:P nah will never happen. He thought Overshadow was hard 9a+.
Hes been trying the Megos 9b and failing
Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.
Megos has probably put him off anyway with the talk of climbing on sea creatures!
Awww poor lad!
Ondra: Statement to warm up, LA second warm up, Big Bang 3rd go ;D
Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.
Normal service is resumed.
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.
fell on the headwall
He can’t have fallen I trusted him, me
It’s like he personally gave me the knee
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.
“It’s called The Dominator not the fuckin Dominatrix” - Jerry Moffatt.
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.
“It’s called The Dominator not the fuckin Dominatrix” - Jerry Moffatt.
Jerry could have had a proper tea the night before if he'd just thought to use some technique. ;)
I presume Meltdown is still unrepeated?
Assume he got straight on TBONTB and did a quick redpoint?
Amazingly intricate type of route to onsight at this, or any, grade
Then it gets ruckus
Too young to remember this (https://youtu.be/5-AkweXwoDs?t=21)?Then it gets ruckus
?
Too young to remember this (https://youtu.be/5-AkweXwoDs?t=21)?Then it gets ruckus
?
Too young to remember this (https://youtu.be/5-AkweXwoDs?t=21)?
https://www.mall.tv/jediny-pokus-1 first little vid from his trip, mainly driving/flying to the crag footage + Midnight Lightning. Looks promising for some good climbing footage to come in the future though.
The notion that somehow, those climbers who aren't quite operating at the same level as Ondra, are less deserving of sponsorship through the promotion of brand/product sales etc, or that somehow Ondra's "status" should provide him with a protective bubble from the sort of observation I've tried to make, is in my mind, a non-starter.
Just did it. (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/9vywfl/adam_ondra_onsighting_just_do_it_14c_at_smith/?st=JOC4LXR3&sh=647cccd2)
First day in Indian Creek.The uncensored quote is: "Feels like a different sport, at which I excel anyway."
"feels like a different sport"
Onsights Air Swedin.
This is why I love Ondra. In that video where he explains to the bloke that he hasn't got any gear and the guy he's talking to invites him to climb with them, he doesn't even blink, just exclaims "hell yeah". I know the route suggested is a classic, but still he's just psyched. He's a climber's climber.
the “hard” part is face climbing, so a 5.12- crack followed by some trivial hiking for Ondra.
the “hard” part is face climbing, so a 5.12- crack followed by some trivial hiking for Ondra.
It's not exactly face climbing, it's slightly weird compression with an arete for one hand and a rubbish crack for the other, with sandy smears. Hardly romping up a juggy 8a.
Speaking of, I also doubt that there are any routes in The Creek that cannot be laybacked by someone of Ondra's abilities. Some horrendous tips fingercrack that is sufficently splitter maybe?
belly full of bad berries second go (https://www.instagram.com/p/BqON8BzB2f_/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ghh9rmv5ba39)Well at least this confirms one thing, he's an avid reader of UKB! What else shall we get him do?
belly full of bad berries second go (https://www.instagram.com/p/BqON8BzB2f_/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ghh9rmv5ba39)Well at least this confirms one thing, he's an avid reader of UKB! What else shall we get him do?
That headwall! What a place! Am I right in thinking that when they say they're going to do the Salathe route, they actually mean Freerider, which is the free version of the Salathe? Or does Freerider avoid the headwall pitch? I don't remember seeing 8a+ mooted for Freerider.
I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web
I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web
I've just watched the vid again, and what's most inspiring is what it means to Ondra.
For me, that's what matters. I find the numbers irrelevant.
I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind
I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind
Ben Cossey on Groove Train is another classic of the genre.
https://youtu.be/H-PsXKda6JU
Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.
Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!
Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14E1o_F51Ew
9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.
Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.
Not a bad day ...
https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/
Not a bad day ...
https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/
I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!
And the moves on that vert project, jeez, had me wincing. :o
My thoughts exactly - is that the least likely 9b in the world to get a repeat? Looked horrendous, impressive determination.
Damn... Last night I saved those video links for later viewing. They have now been taken down for copyright reasons :/
They are on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company website
So good, love the post credits explaining of dabbing to his grandma too!
Who doesn't like lime chossfests anyway?!
:tumble:
It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.
It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.
Nought wrong with raping dogs.It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.
The one time I posted something with EXACTLY the same fucking message about the breadth of food experiences, all the fucking knobends on here jumped down my throat like I'd raped their dogs in front of them.
In fact I'd almost punter you for the fact you'll inevitably get away with it, but it's not your fault they're morons.
Grotty limestone caves are still shit tho. More like microwaved building site rubble than microwave lasagne.
Grotty limestone caves are still too hard for me though.
Maybe I should give failing in grotty caves a go, then I can get stronger.
all the fucking knobends on here jumped down my throat li
On the men's side, I think the current elite climbers are not fundamentally much stronger than the Jerry Moffatt or Ben Moon of the 90s. In terms of strength on a campus board, we don't really do any better. But you need a lot more than pure strength, and fortunately, today we don't have to train on the shitty walls of those days!
Such is the life of the professional athlete, it's always going to look a bit petty to people with "normal" lives/responsibilities. Especially so during a pandemic. That's hardly their fault, although sometimes there does seem an alarming lack of self-awareness.
As another example, I see Nalle Hukkataival has spent the last few weeks in Peru developing a new bouldering area, despite Peru having one of the worst coronavirus crises in South America. I mean, he's literally just doing his job, but is it a good idea?
Going back to the debate we were having before about Ondra's film crew etc., you can now read about the team.....
https://adamondra.com/updates/wolf-pack?fbclid=IwAR0R7xrvo8LCI9wQzT9A43uX-q1h-B5Wg4c_fvBfwD1Vg4LXZQV5dNPSK5o
Having gone down the blog style video series route, I suspect the pressure on him must be immense. All credit to for him for trying to show us an insight into the process of climbing at the absolute cutting edge, but I don't envy him. I manage to put enough pressure on myself and (almost) nobody cares what I do and don't climb. I thought the 'hell' comment was quite tongue in cheek anyway. I don't think he was being that serious.
This 3 video a week regime that Ondra’s on will eventually suck all the life and joy out of it for him. The sad but inevitable conclusion will come after 50 days on Bibliographie - after 6 weeks of vlogs about being tired from the walk and Ceuse being 10 degrees warmer than usual due to global warming he’ll be so riddled with anxiety and stress he’ll throw the cameras down the hill and fly around the hill on his drone wailing like a banshee.
Ondra complaining about 78% humidity, I’d settle for a couple of days under 90% right now!
...
Ondra complaining about 78% humidity
For a more accurate measure of how condensed the rock will be I think you need to look at; air temperature, relative humidity, air pressure (these three are what determine the dew point), rock temperature, wind speed and direction.
Put all this together and you can understand phenomena like limestone caves condensing the day after a temperature spike. You can also imagine creating a mathematical model that is a relatively robust predictor for conditions on any given day, but it's going to be a lot more complex than a toy hygrometer, and no more reliable than going by feel on your warm up.
Put all this together and you can understand phenomena like limestone caves condensing the day after a temperature spike. You can also imagine creating a mathematical model that is a relatively robust predictor for conditions on any given day, but it's going to be a lot more complex than a toy hygrometer, and no more reliable than going by feel on your warm up.
I've been contemplating a project where you'd build little remote sensing stations that'd gather data from key crags around the peak. You'd then use that data to predict conditions at the crag on a given day, work out when's the optimal time to go for your last burn of the day, predict seepage etc.
The average YouTuber with a million subscribers makes about $5000 a month.
I dunno, I can feel when it is sticky or not. Don't really think a measuring device other than the skin is necessary..
What with climbing being in the olympics and all that I’m sure we can swing some extra ££.
Anyway - in Ondranews I see from his IG that he now has 250k YouTube subscribers... plucked from google I found this:QuoteThe average YouTuber with a million subscribers makes about $5000 a month.
So that might explain a bit of the funding model...
If his numbers are anything like lattice he'll be making a lot more than £1k/month with 250k subscribers.
What with climbing being in the olympics and all that I’m sure we can swing some extra ££.
Anyway - in Ondranews I see from his IG that he now has 250k YouTube subscribers... plucked from google I found this:QuoteThe average YouTuber with a million subscribers makes about $5000 a month.
So that might explain a bit of the funding model...
Why bother for about a £1000 a month? Hardly seems worth the effort and stress?
Having someone follow you on a boulder problem with a fan is so passé, looks like the new cool is to have a lackey on a rope following you up the route with a fanWe could be getting very close to an imaginary line that should not be crossed.
I hear the tiniest violin on Earth playing for Ondra, who had only515 actual days on the route on 44 spent climbing in Spain
Yes he's pretty whiny at times but part of the reason he's the world's best climber is that he cares so much and every little thing matters.
Yes he's pretty whiny at times but part of the reason he's the world's best climber is that he cares so much and every little thing matters.
This. Elite athletes do not get to elite status with a happy go lucky attitude.
He looks like he’s fighting, not flowing. Interesting to watch. Not sure the excuses are doing him any favours at this point as he just doesn’t look like he’s strong enough on that mono. Even when he makes it through the move he’s knackered!:agree:
It's been interesting to see him fail here. Perfecto seems to be a straight fight with few opportunities for tricks. Ondra is so good at so many aspects of rock climbing it's somehow strange to realise that he's probably not the best in this specific style, even though he was quite open about his weaknesses at the beginning of this series. Good to see really.
...and the conditions did seem pretty poor (unless he was fibbing)...
It's amazing to me how poor he climbs up to the crux on a few of the goes. It's as though the moves are "so easy" he's trying to go faster, but ending up doing it so inefficiently. Very strange.
It's all a ruse. He's just hamming up being shit to have his opponents drop their guard prior to the Olympics. He's going to thrash and they'll be wondering how he made such a comeback. Cheeky Ondra.
Maybe schubert had mint conditions (although schubert must be up there in terms of the best in the world), maybe megos had terrible conditions and his ascent even more impressive. Who knows unless you were there?
I pass on the characteristically blunt comment from my better half: “anyone trying to climb a hard route in Spain in December is an idiot”.
Much of Spain north of Valencia is often plagued by condensation in December. Short days as well, with lots of crags having dew until midday and then getting more dew at around 4-5 o'clock. And most sectors north of Lleida are plagued by the infamous Lleida fog. January is better and February is much better. Just as cold and much dryer. December is for climbing in the sun.
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV
I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV
I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.
You chasing shade, now that is bullshit :lol:
There are salons for that nowadaysmmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV
I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.
You chasing shade, now that is bullshit :lol:
Good point well made
That area of margalef can be a real swamp, its sat within the valley, burried amongst the trees, it can feel like a sauna sometimes over there compared to say espadelles which is high up and overlooks everything, so yeah, can probably cut him a bit of slack on this one. He should have given up and come to try Bon Combat, reckon he'd piss it.
I live in BCN, weather wise its been warm / wet / warm / wet, was good in october then again in late december but Ondra left already.
When he arrived here there were covid restrictions - but legally he was ok (as per my understanding), though perhaps a 10 man film crew, non of which were wearing masks - which is the law here - wasn't necessary nor a great look..
That said, whilst he is taking some heat for that - after he left the rules then became very strict, people here can't travel between comarcas, so even if you live an hour away from Margalef - you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.
I wholeheartedly agree - even on the very rare occasions that the opinion is well-considered, thoughtful and cogent, I'm still not interested...you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.
Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.
I wholeheartedly agree - even on the very rare occasions that the opinion is well-considered, thoughtful and cogent, I'm still not interested...you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.
Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.
I like the videos on Adam’s Instagram story at the moment. Speed climbing an indoor 8a.
Something like 46s with clipping and 36s on top rope (though looks like he unclipped two draws on the way up).
So about 6x slower than the speed route at the olympics, but also 8a vs.6b5+!
Here's a thought on that theme.
One way of incorporating speed into the Olympic discipline, could be a fastest ascent of the lead route - after the on-sight attempt. Maybe with a practice session thrown in.
Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....
between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.
Yep its a good and interesting interview, both Ondra and Mitbo come across well and appear to be enjoying themselves. Never really got the hate for Mitbo, yes he does some 'wacky' stuff on his videos but that's how he earns a living. On the more climbing related ones which I've watched the come across well, has a decent screen presence, is a good interviewer and can still cut it pretty well climbing wise (definitely doesn't embarrass himself climbing in Ondra's gym)Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....
I share your suspicions. I gave it a try because it had had the jwi imprimatur but watched it to the end, enjoyed it, and think you might too. It's a genial chat and MM gets Adam to open up a bit between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.
3 and a half 8B's on the minute :o
3 and a half 8B's on the minute :o
I guess cos climbing is a discipline/pastime/activity which is occasionally done as a sport. Whereas those things are purely sports.
I class Ondra as the best rock climber too but I don't really know why. He's probably the best sport climber, but I think i'd place 3 before him in boudering (1. Woods, 2. Nalle, 3. Webb, then Ondra, Cameroni, Raboutou, Albert etc?). That makes him well rounded, but less so than Dave Mac? :worms:
but less so than Dave Mac? :worms:
I guess cos climbing is a discipline/pastime/activity which is occasionally done as a sport. Whereas those things are purely sports.
I lift weights as a pastime.
Yours pedantically.
I class Ondra as the best rock climber too but I don't really know why. He's probably the best sport climber, but I think i'd place 3 before him in boudering (1. Woods, 2. Nalle, 3. Webb, then Ondra, Cameroni, Raboutou, Albert etc?). That makes him well rounded, but less so than Dave Mac? :worms:
3 and a half 8B's on the minute :o
This bit got me thinking whether I could do this on something a couple of grades below my max at a crag I had wired. 🤔
For me, headpointing sits somewhere between trad and sport. The real test of being a trad climber is reading a description, racking up, and setting off into the unknown
Slightly off-topic but how many people have flashed/o/s-ed 9a?
Ondra, Megos, ? Or are they the only ones? Seems like there must be more?
and 8A is approaching a rest.
and 8A is approaching a rest.
no, but I would think that anyone who can onsight 9a can run laps on a well-rehearsed medium length 8b without getting pumped. So almost any part of an 8b route is a shake out.
Only those two. Not that many who has onsighted or flashed 8c+ either. I can only think of Paxi Usoibaga, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Magnus Midtbø and Piotr Schab. Maybe someone else. Magnus and Piotr have only done one respectively afaik (even if they both done lots of 8cs onsight).
Only those two. Not that many who has onsighted or flashed 8c+ either. I can only think of Paxi Usoibaga, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Magnus Midtbø and Piotr Schab. Maybe someone else. Magnus and Piotr have only done one respectively afaik (even if they both done lots of 8cs onsight).
I think it might be even more selective than that as it doesn't look like Piotr has logged any 8c+ onsights on 8a.nu (despite logging plenty of other stuff).
8c/+ my hardest onsight so far. Such a fight in the lower & middle section and then quite controlled everything till the chain. Amazing route.
I suppose my thoughts re Dave Mac is just like, who else is ever going to do Echo Wall? I don't think any of those guys is doing a trad route MacLeod can't do, but I don't think any of them are doing that.
But I don't really know trad that well so I'll accept could well be talking guff.
I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.
Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails :wall:
I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.
I’m sure Dave is the best headpointer in Scotland, and one of the most impressive all rounders in the UK, as well as one of the fittest. I thought his “all the 8s” day was truly inspirational.
But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…? Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails :wall:
Strong posts Duncan Campbell.
Also can people please stick to capitalised Font 8B grades and lower case sport 8b grades, preferably F8b for that matter, it makes posts like cowboyhat's above much easier to parse.
But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…? Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails :wall:
I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.
But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…? Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails :wall:
I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.
Everyone knows the best trad climber in Scotland is Iain Small.
I think when MM is nearing 2 million subscribers, we make a concerted effort to get him to make a celebratory video with Fiend.
Didn't Alex Honnold visit Cheddar and describe it as "disgusting" :lol:
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).
I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this [...]
Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.I’m always impressed at your vocabulary Moose - had to look this one up.
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).
I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this but you're not wrong, peak UKC :wall:.
I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?
I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?
Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?
I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?
Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?
As the owner of a very long pair of arms, I can attest to this. Long levers are often a massive hindrance, contrary to popular belief (although to be fair, they do help on some things so it's swings and roundabouts to a certain extent).
Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.
Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.
Potentially a new challenger on the horizon soon, maybe the Kwisatz Haderach https://www.instagram.com/p/CX5mhdvvUeo/?utm_medium=copy_link
There’s only one way to settle this. Remus… get the spreadsheet.
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/
Very good :lol: From both you and Andy...Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/
Thank goodness for that. I thought I’d stumbled into OK! magazine for a moment.
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/
I like that he confirmed our consensus rule-of-thumb that a boulder problem to a piss-easy top out should be graded one-and-a half grade harder than the boulder problem as a route. 7B+ boulder > hiking = 8a route, 8C+ boulder > hiking = 9b route, etc.
(And for the children of athletes, they revert to the mean ability unless you fix desirable genetic traits [what even are the genetic traits determining climbing ability?] through linebreeding. Even so, success is not guaranteed)
There are idiots on 8a? Well I never!:o
In between swatting critics on 8a.nu looks like he nipped in for a quick repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's Lonely Mountain, suggesting hard 9b. Psyched that we're back to the good old days of Ondra demolishing the hardest routes in the world in record time.
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.Nothing, but nothing pushes the grade more than impending fatherhood
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.Nothing, but nothing pushes the grade more than impending fatherhood
Worth it for the comedic value at the belay:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsWNzOKL6-Y&t=9s
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.
Which ascent are we calling bull shit on?
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.Surely in his car there was a guy named Chris. I wonder if he said something.
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.Surely in his car there was a guy named Chris. I wonder if he said something.
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪
Love this live action :popcorn:
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪
Love this live action :popcorn:
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪
Love this live action :popcorn:
Any chance of a live stream from the crag tomorrow? News as it's happening!
Pretty outrageous you'd prioritise your own climbing over the requests of ukb :furious:
Wait for the obscure knee bar that brings it down two grades. :lol:
As in gone home?
Strong reportage, cheers Adam.
On the grade of Furia, Will said 9b, Jakob said 9a+ and Megos said the easiest of Kong capella and la capella. I can imagine it settling at 9a+.
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?
https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?
https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link
:-\
Ondra has onsighted Solitary souls 8c+, in Arco. His ≈25th onsight of a route 8c+ or harder.
Full list on https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-alcanza-las-25-vias-de-8c-o-mas-a-vista/
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.Jibe Tribout's comment was
Ondra est le meilleur grimpeur du monde car il a fait super plafond à-vue
I can see why Jibe would want that to be the case but is it true? Is SP first amongst equals on the list, I can’t imagine even Ondra chilling out halfway up scoping out the sequence, on the other hand it might be a bit more obvious what do from the ground than some of the others.
[/quotesk]
Slapping up those slippy slopers at the top looks droppable though.
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.
Nothing better than an Ondra running commentary: "Here I was quite pumped, but it was OK."
Zvěřinec (Menagerie) 9b+ (hard) FA❗His second hardest route, but not 9c. It's all getting pretty bunched around those grades!
Today I completed surely the second hardest route of my life (after Silence) ✌️ In 2011, I made my first ascent of Perlorodka (Pearloyster) after quite a few days of effort. Striking line in possibly the best rock that we have at our homecrag (Moravian Karst, Czechia 🇨🇿) Very improbable crux at solid 8B+ difficulty with reachy moves and desperate slapping of the completely rounded lip of the overhang. Back then, I gave it 9a+, but I think it deserves more 9b 🤔 Zveřinec climbs the same crux and has a different start that could be 9a+ on its own, with good rest in between.
After struggling the last two weeks with conditions, today it was just perfect 👌 0 degrees of Celsius, overcast, no wind, absolutely dry rock. With perfect warmup at my homewall, I could fight the cold temperature of the air and the advantage of the best friction!
His second hardest route, but not 9c. It's all getting pretty bunched around those grades!
The original mega wad.
For those keeping count at home that's 4x 9a onsights, 1x 9a flash and 1x 9a+ flash.
And 8B+ flash!
Shatner's bassoon.
Easy to forget he nipped up Dawn Wall on his holidays.This ^
If specialised maybe he could be pretty decent!
Obviously he's coming for the Burden of Dreams cellar replica.
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.
Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.
Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?
Obviously he's coming for the Burden of Dreams cellar replica.
I mean, apart from that why on earth would he bother now?!
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.
Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?
As correct and depressing as this is, the outdoor climbing programming (i'm trying my hardest not to use the word 'content') on YouTube is in a good place. Wedge, Mellow, Ondra, Stefano, Jakob, Raboutou, Macleod, Bouin, and even Emil Abrahamsson are all putting out good stuff regularly.
Mag lime is dry too ;D
Protect the brand! Crack is rad! Need to have content of star feigning interest in a short, 45 year old off width route otherwise consumers might remember that crack climbing is a niche activity that no one is really arsed about.
Ondra is always psyched for any type of climbingexcept speed climbing.
consumers might remember that crack climbing is a niche activity that no one is really arsed about.
I guess this is what a ‘work’ trip for some pro climbers looks like these days!
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?
Goodness sake they've even had him doing chossy 80s limestone routes at Stoney!
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?
I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?
I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.
Paul Robinson maybe?
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?
I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.
Paul Robinson maybe?
Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+
Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+
Potential grade compression due to Silence actually being 9c+? It seemed like Excalibur was going to be 9c, but how could Stefano have given it that grade after recently trying Silence?
Also it looks quite long and quite good; I thought it was going to be another Vasil Vasil scene.
Probs been discussed before, but has ondra repeated many 9b+s other than his own? Just curious as my routes knowledge is sparce! (I checked his website and it seemed that they're all FAs). And my partner asked me the other day and I didn't know the answer.
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route
I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.
Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.
I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route
I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.
Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.
I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.
This new one looks pretty different in style to silence though doesn't it?
I don't think so. He came close on Perfecto Mundo a couple of years ago but no cigar. That's the only one he's seriously tried AFAIK. Recently rewatched the Ondra videos of him trying it which were a good insight into his process
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xe8PeQgbvEsProper wholesome seeing how hyped Adam gets when he does stuff - you'd think he'd be used to it now being the "best climber in the world", nice to see he still genuinely loves it
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.
That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.
That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.
At 8:06 he says "...Il Domani that I onsighted back in 2014, so I had to wait 8 years before I finally climbed a 9a onsight again"
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).
I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).
I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.
There’s a video on YouTube of Ben going back on it a few years ago and he talks about it a different sequence in use. Not clear how different but the video is worth checking, not least to watch BM nearly retro flash La Rose
I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c.
I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c.
If you need to stand on a sling to get up it, it doesn't sound much like a bog-standard middle-of-the-grade 6c to me.
In the comments of Ondra’s post a few people are saying that he still has to catch up with Dani Andrada’s numbers. I don’t follow top climbers in any detail and I’ve never really taken Andrada seriously because he looks like Keith Richards so can anyone shed any light on what his “numbers” are like?
2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.
I really love his way to approach climbing away from modern day BS.
2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.
That is just ridiculous. That's equivalent to doing an 8th grade route every day for 13 years!
from some other thread
When I was in Rodellar Andrada was cleaning and bolting a new route in the Piscineta. It had fixed ropes on. Dani was using a grigri and ascender to jug up the ropes but everytime he bounced up he would snap his head back violently. It took us a while to work out that he was pulling the slack through the grigri with his teeth! That and the fact the fixed ropes were rubbing in about 20 places without a rope protector in sight made us question his sanity :o
The route i was trying was adjacent to his new route and after i fell off I dogged to the top. I was halfway through lowering off when it dawned on me that the big ramp I was going to alight onto was also where the massive chunks of rock that Dani was levering off with a hammer were exploding. After frantically getting Al to stop lowering me we both shouted at Dani trying to get his attention. He was completely engrossed in the cleaning work and deaf to the world. Eventually he looked up. The conversation went something like this:
Dani!
Que?
...la roca...uno momento?
Ah...perdon, eh?
As soon as i was clear the rocks started coming down again!
I think Ste told me Andrada was aiming to get to 6k this year? Or maybe it was 5k?
The other crazy thing is that so many of these routes are his - he's not just done thousands but has bolted and cleaned thousands too!
I knew it was short, but I did not know that it was that short! 9A boulder to a 6a+ free solo?
... The next day, I could make the first ascent of “Fantazija” 9a+ 👌 To finish the day off, I onsighted two 8c’s - Kingslayer and Inferno do vrha.Double 8c onsight in a day, after a new 9a+, and this isn't even particularly newsworthy for Ondra. Incredible.
I'd love to see a pan-European grade comparison chart at different levels. [...]
Give the top end is, by my hypothesis, fairly consistent, it would be interesting to see at which level there is some grade compression....? [...]
He's gonna get retroactive credit for the world's first 9A soon too
Would seem fitting that both the world's first 9a route (Hubble) and world's first 9A boulder are both grotty limestone problems.
Get gold in Paris OndraHe still has to qualify first....
what sport routes follow truly amazing lines? I feel a list coming on....
...the big 8c arete in Costa Blanca that's name I can't remember...
This thing?That's the one
Ceuse and Taipan WallIf we're including "good lines on stunning walls" the list gets very very big (Groove Train, Serpentine, Biographie, le cadre, most stuff in the bowl at Ramirole, etc...)
Well that Slovenian crag has got a nice waterfall at least :)
I wonder what Font grade he'd give the boulder problem start....
8B in to soft 8c is some chunky grade maths! No wonder he was happy with the flash.
More first go waddage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1xVqqF61zA
Bon Voyage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji4At78H5Ys
Bon Voyage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji4At78H5Ys
Egypt, c2600BC
Khufu - So this is the Great Pyramid! They’re going to entomb me in it when I die. What do you reckon? Pretty fucking spectacular, eh?
Fiend - Pretty bollox actually. You stuck it right between the mighty Sahara and the magnificent Nile. I mean, if you haven’t got anything else to do then I suppose popping along to have a look might salvage an otherwise unexceptional Saturday afternoon, but other than that, meh…
Is that a Genius on his right foot?
As I non-Czech speaker I feel I'm missing out on the full range of expletives when he slips off after the crux!