[Doylo]

jeepers creepers

[metal arms]

Apparently he's crushed Magic Wood into Neutrinos...

Practice of the wild - 8C
Dark matter - 8B+/C
Remembrance Of Things Past - 8B+

And some easy stuff - Four 8A+s and an 8A!

From the other channel - http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64366

[SA Chris]

Neutrinos? No wonder the news travelled fast.

[Doylo]

i think its safe to call him one of the world's best boulderers now. He matched Woods 3 days on Practice and halved Robinson's time on Monkey Wedding

[Rocksteady]

What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.

[rehab21]

What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.

Orangutans. He reckons that orangutans are the perfect climbing animal, with a power to weight ratio that compares favourably with that of a Caterham 7 and a predictably massive ape index.

In the pub last week he was speculating that if orangutans weren't ginger or threatened with extinction that they would always be a far greater force in world bouldering than he is. Under current conditions he predicted he could overtake them within 3 - 4 seasons.

[Jaspersharpe]

Probably compared to how he feels he could be.

As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.

Scary if you think about it.

[joeisidle]

Probably compared to how he feels he could be.

As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.

Scary if you think about it.

Good point Jasper, and also it's worth bearing in mind that when he said that I don't think he'd climbed harder than 9a+ and 8B+. Now he's done multiple 9bs and is consistently doing 8Cs as quickly as anyone in the world, so maybe he'd be forced to admit that he's not quite as 'weak' as he used to be. (!)

Who knows, he might even be able to do a one armer now.....

[Rocksteady]

Scary if you think about it.

I wish I was as weak as he is.

[Muenchener]

But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?

[lukeyboy]

But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?

Ondra climbing a crack implies the holds on the face aren't good enough for him to pull on.

[boulderingbacon]

when he says hes weak he just means he cant do one armers and stuff like that but his technique, height and finger strength all make up for that lack of pure brute strength

[remus]

Not really news but thought this was a good vid of him bouldering with a few punters.

[Seb]

It really looked like nothing there challenged him much at all. Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

[r-man]

Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.

[ferret]

yeah woods looke beasty on that last problem, very malcolm smith.. would have been nice to see the worlds strongest fight it out on some narly steep stuff not balls on string and sideways double dynos

[ducko]

ondra's technique with wood's strength, cool video all strong as hell!

[tomtom]

Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.

They were given two hours the day before to work all the problems... No quarantine etc.. So quite different from normal comps.. An interesting format.. The competitors said they preferred it to regular format...

[r-man]

I know. Hence my comments.

[rehab21]

Most impressive thing for me is that he was competing against specialists who've been training almost solely for bouldering, while he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.

What's he going to be capable of this time next year after a bit of ?   
Jim

[r-man]

bouldering...he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.

Why do you say that? Ondra has been bouldering hard for years, both outdoors and in training.

I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city.

http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm

[Jaspersharpe]

Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):

http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752



I don't see the family resemblence myself.

[rehab21]

 

I'll check my vague rememberings next time...

[simes]

Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):

http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752



I don't see the family resemblence myself.

He got the climbing talent AND the looks!

[douglas]

Did 8C+ last week:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987