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Almscliff (Read 26472 times)

uptown

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Almscliff
July 22, 2008, 10:13:55 am
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Do you know about the history of Blackhead btw? Can you ask Streaky if not? I think he did it with the bolt hole - I've got Doug Shepherd written down somewhere for an ascent without but he might be a giant? Anyhow - a superb 7b/+ morpho highball which probably deserves inclusion.

Tom did this last Thursday, a quality highball escaping right from the break. A slightly morpho span for a sloper off an undercut. 7b?
He also flashed that lowball thing which is 7a+ in hindsight, though when asked for a grade he just said it was "hard."
Recently I did 'The Wayne Fontana trip' - a there and back version of fieldside. When your lefthand is in the pocket on the arete finish, cross over to the sloper and drop down to the jugs, before reversing fieldside to step off on the wall. 7b+

I'll post a couple of photos and the list at some point.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2008, 10:43:25 am by uptowngirl, Reason: irrelevance »

moose

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#1 Re: Almscliff
July 22, 2008, 11:13:23 am
Where is Blackhead?  Highball 7b is probably a bit rich for my blood... but if it's a bit morpho I'd like to give it a look. 

A heads-up when you post any beta / photo's for Fieldside normal would be much appreciated too - I've long intended to make it a project but can't figure it out (dropping down to the low shelf near the start etc?).  By any chance was Wayne Fontana partially motivated by a desire to avoid any risk of flying off into the tremendous cowshit/bog entity under the arete!

uptown

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#2 Re: Almscliff
July 22, 2008, 02:28:10 pm
Where is Blackhead?  Highball 7b is probably a bit rich for my blood... but if it's a bit morpho I'd like to give it a look.


Blackhead is at the right side of Black wall - good flat landing, not too boggy at this time of year. Two pads are enough imo. It would suit anyone with a good ape index, so might be your kind of cuppa Moose.
Photos of Ru trying it last week:






A heads-up when you post any beta / photo's for Fieldside normal would be much appreciated too - I've long intended to make it a project but can't figure it out (dropping down to the low shelf near the start etc?).  By any chance was Wayne Fontana partially motivated by a desire to avoid any risk of flying off into the tremendous cowshit/bog entity under the arete!

Wayne Fontana was motivated by my need to train on long traverses - I have a dream...
If the Fieldside landing is too boggy, then you can stay low at the end as Streaky did - it's a bit easier but still 7b.
My photos won't help with Beta, but I have a video clip Moose - PM me your email and I'll forward it. If you are struggling on the drop down then try reaching to an undercut rather than sharing the flatty. It's a bit of a cheat but probably the same grade.

Updated 7+8 list is here - comments as ever appreciated.
http://cid-3af88d681771538a.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Yorkshire%207+8/Almscliff%20list1.xls


andy_e

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#3 Re: Almscliff
July 23, 2008, 11:02:31 pm
Looks sweet, has the reprobate got a car yet or is he still scrounging lifts?

uptown

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#4 Re: Almscliff
July 24, 2008, 09:40:47 am
Looks sweet, has the reprobate got a car yet or is he still scrounging lifts?

Still scrounging...when you back from midge heaven?
The Thompson's up your way this week - running the ridge whilst holding his breath - say hello from me ;)

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#5 Re: Almscliff
July 24, 2008, 11:12:37 am
Think I might have done this as a dyno not being able to span between the undercut and the good hold, although my knowledge of black wall is not as good as that of the rest of the cliff, so perhaps the tight crop and odd angle are throwing me off...

uptown

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#6 Re: Almscliff
July 24, 2008, 11:22:07 am
Think I might have done this as a dyno not being able to span between the undercut and the good hold, although my knowledge of black wall is not as good as that of the rest of the cliff, so perhaps the tight crop and odd angle are throwing me off...

I'd be very impressed if you had Stubbs, it's not a lot short of 6', round a bulge, and the hold you go for is a poor sloper with a slight pocket indentation. Tom needed several goes to latch it - I think that proves the difficulty.
There is a good 7a+ dyno further left, off undercuts for the juggy foothold on 'Arries 'ook. That might be what you're thinking of. It's on the list but not on YG or in the present book.
Blackhead made the afterthoughts section of the YG guidebook and is just left of the BWEliminate.

Stubbs

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#7 Re: Almscliff
July 24, 2008, 09:37:37 pm
That's the dyno I was thinking of - will have to give this a go when I get back in country then, although I know Ru and Tom are not the shortest of people, if you managed to reach the hold that leaves me with some hope!

andy_e

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#8 Re: Almscliff
July 26, 2008, 01:00:51 pm
Still scrounging...when you back from midge heaven?

August 9th...

The Thompson's up your way this week - running the ridge whilst holding his breath - say hello from me ;)

Ha- good luck to him. If he can see the ridge, he's lucky- there's blue sky everywhere but for some reason the mountains are covered in cloud...

SA Chris

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#9 Re: Almscliff
July 28, 2008, 08:28:18 am
there's blue sky everywhere but for some reason the mountains are covered in cloud...

Welcome to the mountains. Mix some meteorology with your geology.

BenF

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#10 Re: Almscliff
July 28, 2008, 01:35:13 pm
there's blue sky everywhere but for some reason the mountains are covered in cloud...

 :lol:

Let me guess, for some crazy reason it's colder when you go up the mountains too?  Weird or what?

andy_e

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#11 Re: Almscliff
July 28, 2008, 06:15:38 pm
No, it's hotter, because you're closer to the sun. Duh!

BenF

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#12 Re: Almscliff
July 29, 2008, 08:12:49 am
  :lol: :lol:

Naturally.

uptown

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#13 South cave bounce.
September 18, 2008, 10:56:02 pm
Messing around this evening on the dyno directly up the wall left of the arete. It was pretty dark by the time I snagged it but I guess 6c/7a. I went right handed but I felt left would work too. Undoubtedly climbed 'for fun' since the day dot, it's a worthy exercise in boingability so try it next time you're there.

andy_e

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#14 Re: Almscliff
September 19, 2008, 11:35:04 am
is that the one next to Wall of Horrors? You'll be glad to know Rupert and Matt are crushing lots of things at the moment. They're keen for Play Dead - Power Stamina should be your bag!

uptown

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#15 Re: Almscliff
September 19, 2008, 12:00:54 pm
is that the one next to Wall of Horrors?

No, the clue was in the title Andi...

uptown

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#16 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 02:50:44 pm
Making shapes heads directly up the centre of the Pistol whip wall.



You can see failed attempts at the beginning of Through landscape.

GCW

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#17 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 02:59:19 pm
Nice vid there, Guru.

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#18 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 03:14:37 pm
Nice vid. Where does making shapes finish Andy? Do you use the pockets at the top of Pistol Whip or go out right?

uptown

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#19 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 03:25:15 pm
Nice vid. Where does making shapes finish Andy? Do you use the pockets at the top of Pistol Whip or go out right?
It's the direct solution where the whip pulls left.The crux is deadpointing the three finger edge with your righthand. You then cross over to the large pocket and the finish.

Adam Lincoln

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#20 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 03:27:26 pm
So MS starts as for Pistol whip moves right and gets the pocket in your left? How hard is it?

uptown

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#21 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 03:37:08 pm
So MS starts as for Pistol whip moves right and gets the pocket in your left? How hard is it?
I couldn't figure an alternative to the way I did the crux. The holds take you up and right from where I am in the photo. You share no holds with the whip after the groove. It's hard, yet I'd expect JB to walk up it.

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#22 Re: Almscliff
November 27, 2008, 03:40:32 pm
Nice one utg. Looks really cool.

I can see that in light of recent controversies you've decided against assigning a grade. Probably sensible.  ;)

uptown

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#23 Re: Almscliff
November 28, 2008, 09:39:53 am
Ironically, if you followed the red arrow and description from the tc book, you'd be climbing ms.

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#24 Re: Almscliff
November 28, 2008, 12:10:03 pm
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It's hard, yet I'd expect JB to walk up it.

Who's JB? Not me, remember looking at this years ago and there being no holds.

 

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