UKBouldering.com

Almscliff (Read 26474 times)

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#25 Re: Almscliff
November 28, 2008, 12:17:19 pm
Who's JB?
I did mean you Mr B. I've only just got hold of stick-it and after watching it thought ms looked like your kinda bag. Have a wad for looking at it in the past anyhow.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#26 Re: Almscliff
November 28, 2008, 01:23:27 pm
I'll be keen to try it, Pistol Whip was always my favourite problem at the 'cliff. I doubt very much I'll be 'walking up it' though.

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#27 Re: Almscliff
November 30, 2008, 05:53:10 pm
I needed a fresh challenge this afternoon so did 'larutan traverse' - about 7b+.
Sitstart on the block at the top of the gully, reverse sloper patrol and natural traverse to top out up the pleasant lower arete.
Undoubtedly climbed by many in the past, I'm only highlighting it since it's fun, and it'll give all those traditionalists a proper finish for sloper patrol.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#28 Re: Almscliff
November 30, 2008, 07:29:55 pm
Making shapes heads directly up the centre of the Pistol whip wall.



You can see failed attempts at the beginning of Through landscape.
Nice vid yoot!

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#29 Re: Almscliff
November 30, 2008, 08:46:36 pm
A little sparkle looks a nice little problem.

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#30 Re: Almscliff
November 30, 2008, 10:49:28 pm
A little sparkle looks a nice little problem.

Don't let Fiend see that!

A few more to represent good old Yorkshire:

If we're going to those lowly grades, then G's gotta be representing...

A Little Sparkle, Guisecliffe

Okay it's not so crimpy but it is brilliant.

It is a great problem, but it probably needs a brush right now.

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#31 Re: Almscliff
November 30, 2008, 11:10:12 pm
Of course. The comprehensive list!

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#32 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 06:11:32 pm
And another one from today - 'Waynes wondeful world' 7b+/c?
It's fieldside, but eliminating the jug and good sidepull in favour of poor undercuts and the sloper wave at the start.
Totally eliminate, yet with simple rules and an opportunity to stick some of the meanest slopers on grit. Friction needs to be your friend on this.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#33 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 06:58:41 pm
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#34 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 07:20:27 pm
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?

Ru was spotted at Boulderuk....

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#35 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 07:52:55 pm
Not that Ru...

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#36 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 09:13:37 pm
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
No. Blamed it on Friday night.
JI was trying MS and doing well when I saw him.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#37 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 09:55:09 pm
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
No. Blamed it on Friday night.
JI was trying MS and doing well when I saw him.


Is that the crux move hitting that crimp and holding it?

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#38 Re: Almscliff
December 14, 2008, 09:59:54 pm
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
No. Blamed it on Friday night.
JI was trying MS and doing well when I saw him.


Is that the crux move hitting that crimp and holding it?

Yep, he's eyeing it up for his righthand in the pic.
I don't know if he did it tonight?

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#39 Re: Almscliff
January 01, 2009, 08:19:42 pm
We can probably archive this thread for now : uptown
7+8's to be published 2009.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#40 Re: Almscliff
January 09, 2009, 01:12:06 pm
Conditions for tomorrow please?
Planning a family trip out.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#41 Re: Almscliff
January 09, 2009, 04:34:48 pm
Cold and dry, most likely. No breeze here, could be one there. could be anywhere from 6/10 to 10/10, breeze dependant. Might be out in the morning, hopefully.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#42 Re: Almscliff
January 09, 2009, 04:42:15 pm
I was there this morning - cold and clammy with a slight breeze.  The rock was dry but not exactly "mint" - thankfully the crag seemed free of the thick fog that's swathing the area to the SE (i.e. along the northbound A1).  Incidentally, the farmer has been letting his cows roam around with predictable results - tread carefully!

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#43 Re: Almscliff
January 09, 2009, 05:20:22 pm
Cheers chaps.
Am I to assume that Demon Wall Roof area is a tad poohy then? please don't tell me that an enterprising cow has curled one out under the Keel block, or even more impressively/improbably under Jess's Roof...

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#44 Re: Almscliff
January 09, 2009, 05:36:34 pm
Cheers chaps.
Am I to assume that Demon Wall Roof area is a tad poohy then? please don't tell me that an enterprising cow has curled one out under the Keel block, or even more impressively/improbably under Jess's Roof...

Thankfully, so far as I could see, there were no "deposits" under any of the major problems - the cows are largely staying in the Black Wall area (where their fodder is).  Just the odd tuft of hair  and pat in the grass.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20288
  • Karma: +642/-11
#45 Re: Almscliff
January 09, 2009, 06:27:38 pm
Cheers chaps.
Am I to assume that Demon Wall Roof area is a tad poohy then? please don't tell me that an enterprising cow has curled one out under the Keel block, or even more impressively/improbably under Jess's Roof...

Thankfully, so far as I could see, there were no "deposits" under any of the major problems - the cows are largely staying in the Black Wall area (where their fodder is).  Just the odd tuft of hair  and pat in the grass.
Most of the cliff - aside from the above mentioned black wall area seems to remain remarkably poo free - though sometimes around flying arete/three swings area theres a good spraying :-)

Might be up there tomorrow myself about 11 ish - if my consumption lets up  :)
Looking forward to it  ;D

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#46 Re: Almscliff
January 14, 2009, 07:18:57 pm
Quote
Quote
Nice vid. Where does making shapes finish Andy? Do you use the pockets at the top of Pistol Whip or go out right?
It's the direct solution where the whip pulls left.The crux is deadpointing the three finger edge with your righthand. You then cross over to the large pocket and the finish.

Had a pop at this today on the way home from an unfriendly Rylstone, twas nice to be back at the 'cliff after so long. Luckily there was a local on hand to show me the sequence, would never have figured it out otherwise, couldn't even remember what went on on pistol whip. I can smugly report I was right and I didn't walk up it. Got through to the right-hand crimp nicely once but left hand blew, then it went dark. Will definitely try it again if I pass by in the near future, good effort. What grade did you reckon?

Is that vid online still, doesn't seem to be working?

Quote
7+8's to be published 2009.

Is this a list or a full guide?

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#47 Re: Almscliff
January 14, 2009, 09:25:49 pm
Had a pop at this today on the way home from an unfriendly Rylstone

did the line that bransby wanted to do get done?

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#48 Re: Almscliff
January 14, 2009, 09:57:27 pm
Not whilst I was there.

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#49 Re: Almscliff
January 14, 2009, 10:39:55 pm
Had a pop at this today on the way home from an unfriendly Rylstone, twas nice to be back at the 'cliff after so long. Luckily there was a local on hand to show me the sequence, would never have figured it out otherwise, couldn't even remember what went on on pistol whip. I can smugly report I was right and I didn't walk up it. Got through to the right-hand crimp nicely once but left hand blew, then it went dark. Will definitely try it again if I pass by in the near future, good effort. What grade did you reckon?

Is that vid online still, doesn't seem to be working?

Quote
7+8's to be published 2009.

Is this a list or a full guide?

Cheers Adam,
Who was your local then? I was free today too - in a busy kinda way...
I think in the 7c/+ ballpark, but we'll have to wait and see if anyone repeats it.
Did you try waynes wonderful world or mindbending whilst you were there or are they too log?
Could be a list or guide...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal