Elbow (golfers?) injury recovery advice please.

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

Booked to see Ozzy at the end of this week and Paul @ SCC after the weekend. Will see what they have to say about exercises and stuff.

I'm wondering with this eccentric business, whether light climbing training and then downclimbing everything you go up could be useful for tendon-strengthening on the same basis??
 
i.munro said:
I'm afraid you lost me with 'Lady in the water' ???

Its a film and it has a guy in it who only works out one side of his body, needless to say one side of his is bigger than the other. Shit film.
 
Paul B said:
Its a film and it has a guy in it who only works out one side of his body, needless to say one side of his is bigger than the other. Shit film.

Ah ok thanks (shouldn't it be called crabman returns or something?). I seem to remember reading somewhere that training the uninjured side is a way of reducing atrophy in the injured limb but I've no idea if or how this applies to sports performance.
 
Fiend said:
Booked to see Ozzy at the end of this week and Paul @ SCC after the weekend. Will see what they have to say about exercises and stuff.

So what's the word?? I'm just about pain-free now & wondering where to go from here.
 
Ozzy dealt with it pretty much as before. He confirmed the excercises had good reasoning behind them and that I should keep doing them. He also suggested a way of taping directly around the elbow and said that after 6 weeks pretty much total rest, more rest would be counter-productive - gentle climbing and continuing with the exercises would be good.
 
Fiend said:
Ozzy dealt with it pretty much as before. He confirmed the excercises had good reasoning behind them and that I should keep doing them. He also suggested a way of taping directly around the elbow and said that after 6 weeks pretty much total rest, more rest would be counter-productive - gentle climbing and continuing with the exercises would be good.

Thanks. Looks like we're at almost exactly the same stage. Guess I've been lucky as I first posted to this thread before current problems started.
Were you given any thoughts on how/when to combine gentle climbing & rehab? How many time a week rest days etc?
 
No, I'm not at the pain-free stage. Have mild pain upon pressure at any time, and more noticable pain after any climbing / similar usage.

I wasn't given any specific advice on rehab. Just keep doing massage, ice water, dumbell exercises, and light climbing, and don't go anywhere near my physical limit.
 
Thanks again.

I'm trying to work out whether to do the dumbell stuff on the same day as gentle climbing or not & how much I need to rest. Back to the physio I guess.
 
fatdoc said:
- see someone else? Dont get me wrong Ozzy is top.... you might need a more whole arm & shoulder & neck massage / freeing up (read hideous screaming)... Paul wilson at sheffield chiro clinic is the man for this. I see both Paul and ozzy, I recommend both...

Well it wasn't quite that bad as he worked on my forearm only. But it was plenty painful enough. He scared me at first. I don't like military people - they are trained killers. And I'm not.

Anyway he did a lot of friction massage and loosening stuff around the muscle and tendon. Says this is very important (I had mostly been massaging the tendon area). Muscle feels noticably softer afterwards.

Recommended to keep doing the eccentric dumbell exercises (and the antangonistic muscles), keep doing the ice water and my own massage. Recommended a specific strap around the elbow during exercise that puts pressure on the tendon before the injury site to give it more chance to heal.. Recommended as much rest as possible but if I am doing anything that puts strain on it, that I must ice it after usage.

Errr so there we go. Still injured. Still pissed off.
 
Quick question: Eccentric exercises, should I do low weights / high reps, medium / medium, or high weights low reps? At the moment doing 3 sets x 10 reps x 14kg daily, or the same with 16kg if I go to the gym. I can feel a very slight stress on the injury (right arm, different injury this year) but overall this feels pretty comfortable... :weakbench:
 
Assuming a common flexor tendonosis and not one of the other reasons for medial elbow pain, the general view is to keep the reps. fairly low and gradually increase the force through the tendon. You can increase the force by increasing the weight or increasing the rate of deceleration. If you are getting elbow pain after dynoing/snatching then making the deceleration phase of the roll short and sharp might be an idea.

You could also try a more climbing-related finger flexor eccentric exercise by holding a half-crimp position and lowering yourself into an open-handed grip. Probably best if you start this is partially loaded not full body-weight - stand on scales. This would have the usual advantages and disadvantages of more specific exercises: more likely to carry-over to the real thing, harder to quantify, easier to do wrongly and possibly riskier. Usual caveats about random advice apply.

Discomfort at the painful spot whist exercising is certainly acceptable and probably desirable. If you get a constant ache the following day you need to ease-back slightly.
 
Just read the Athlon dodgy elbow article and started following it religiously, it does say that the exercises will aggregate the injury. But they also aggregate The brachoradialis. Is this normal? Should i see a physio to check I am doing them right. Keep getting the feeling I'll make it all worse some how! Cheers
 
Do the Dodgy Elbows exercises 3 sets of 10 for both eccentric wrist curl and the hammer exercises. The ten reps should be at a weight that is tiring but not causing failure. Two days on, one off, or every other days works. The very important detail is to consistently play with the angle of your elbow while doing the exercises and to do them at the angle which is most irritating to the injury - aggravation during the exercise is a good thing. I know of people who have done the exercises for two months with no benefit and then went from injured elbow to fine elbow within 3 weeks of doing the hammer exercises with an almost completely straight arm. You could ice in a bowl of water and ice cubes for 10 minutes after your exercises for a few weeks, this will help settle any inflammation issues that you may currently have along with the epicondylosis.
 
masonwoods101 said:
in the 'dodgy elbow' article its the exercise where you have weight on one end of a dumbell bar... i think...

Is that a twist exercise? Like the wrist curls but instead you rotate the wrist..
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top