i.munro
Well-Known Member
duncan said:
Seems to me that this (changing the length of the finger flexors while they are under tension) is close to the action of climbing where the angle of the wrist changes as you move past a hold??
Elbow (golfers?) injury recovery advice please.
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Seems to me that this (changing the length of the finger flexors while they are under tension) is close to the action of climbing where the angle of the wrist changes as you move past a hold??
when i've had golfers elbow in the past and was told to wear a brace and not climb for 3 months.i just wore the brace,did various exercises and generally carried on as normal and it stopped hurting after a few months.
cider nut
Monkeying around
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Deny, according to this:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2007/04/layoff-vs-slow-return-to-activity.html
Although I'd be wary of taking the timings too literally - I expect three weeks is if you stop immediately on being injured, rather than stopping after months of climbing on an injury and aggravating it
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2007/04/layoff-vs-slow-return-to-activity.html
Although I'd be wary of taking the timings too literally - I expect three weeks is if you stop immediately on being injured, rather than stopping after months of climbing on an injury and aggravating it
Fiend said:
In general, 12-18 months complete rest for tendon problems is now an unusual view. That poster's suggestions regarding NSAIDs are also about 15 years behind current knowledge and best practice. Tendon problems of a few months standing have little or no inflammation, so anti-inflammatory drugs have little or no role in their management.
Speaking generally again, people tend to under-rest when problems are recent but over-rest when they have been going on for some time.
It is inappropriate to give very specific advice over the 'net, even when (as you have fiend) the problem is described very clearly.
Fiend said:
As said before, I didn't stop climbing at all. While I was trying to find a cure I needed to take days off to let the pain subside though. Have you read and tried the exercises in that pdf I linked to?
I have exactly the same injury as described Fiend. Reading the article suggests it to be tendonosis. It goes when I warm up and hurts when I do actions like washing my face.
If I try the exercises though, it makes my wrist hurt and almost kind of click, is this normal or just a result of the injury, or am I using too much weight. If I use less weight, then it doesn't tire the arm, so I could do millions of reps.
If I try the exercises though, it makes my wrist hurt and almost kind of click, is this normal or just a result of the injury, or am I using too much weight. If I use less weight, then it doesn't tire the arm, so I could do millions of reps.
Fiend
Whut
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I've started the exercises, on 10-12kg, about in the middle of the range suggested. Like yourself it makes my wrist ache a bit and occasionally click, it feels like a lot of strain is going through it. I do get a bit fatigued in the arm as required but not a lot.
Alan Hulbert said:
no absolutes in medicine. i think he's talking shit. i had tendonitis, it was fucking rubbish, generally related to my my posture and campusing. i stopped doing this and stood up straight, had a lay off of 3 weeks and went swimming, running and did heaps of press ups.
I've adapted the wrist curls thing with a theraband, and it gives my wrist aload less gip. I sit down and stand on the ends of the band and lay my forearm along my thigh, and then stretch the band upwards. No wrist pain this way, and more arm fatigue.
i.munro
Well-Known Member
New suggestion from my physio, in case anyone is interested, is to wrap something (towel or I'm trying handlebar tape) around the dumbbell to make a fat grip when doing the eccentric half of wrist curls so that the fingers are gripping as when climbing.
Also what do the commitee think about doing one arm/hand training with the good arm(after two weeks out I'm getting a bit twitchy).
I suspect this is jsust a good way to get matching injuries?
Also what do the commitee think about doing one arm/hand training with the good arm(after two weeks out I'm getting a bit twitchy).
I suspect this is jsust a good way to get matching injuries?
milksnake
Well-Known Member
I had a similar injury from doing too many thuggy overhangs (same place but on the tricep tendon). I didn't stop climbing i just did loads of slabby technical routes till it went away, the sort of stuff where the holds are too poor to crank on. the added bonus is that my footwork is pretty good now. I took ibuprofen whilst i was climbing but i think it did more harm than good, it wouldn't hurt when I climbed but I really felt it the next day! So basically, try and climb like a girl.
i.munro
Well-Known Member
Ok I'm doing the palms up eccentric stuff as advised by my physio & discussed on here but it only felt uncomfortable for the first day or so.
If it doesn't hurt the injury (even a ickle bit) does that mean I'm trying to strengthen the wrong bit?
Getting really frustrated now!!
If it doesn't hurt the injury (even a ickle bit) does that mean I'm trying to strengthen the wrong bit?
Getting really frustrated now!!
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i.munro said:
Supposedly Gresham was once found working out with one arm whilst the other was broken or something, people scoffed at this until he produced some book or paper or something on neuromuscular symmetry however i'm not sure if its actually a load of tripe after watching lady in the water.
i.munro
Well-Known Member
I'm afraid you lost me with 'Lady in the water' ???
