[Andy F]

Worth ensuring that you've worked the moves back left at the top because it can feel quite awkward and tiring after you've done everything else (though maybe you could traverse further right to get a better rest before)

Hmmm. The way we were doing it was to rock onto the triangular ledgey bit and get a good hold on the rib out right (about 1m right of the top bolt). Use some edges to get a good higher jug with the right (just left of Supercrack), then span back left to holds and up to lower-off. Is that legit? There's almost a hands off rest on the little triangular ledge, it didn't feel too concerning.
[/quote]

IIRC Ian and I both went diagonally left from the ledge, to some big slopey holds above the final bolt, before the big final break, them belay. Even taking a really good rest before the last moves I nearly contrived to blow it.
Make sure that you've got the top 100% sorted as when you go back left it is fluffable. You can go from fine to boxed in seconds when your tired.

[belperpete]

You'll notice a change to Squealer after today. The original method crimp (spanning out left from the 1/3rd jug) has now gone
to the crag foot, leaving the right hand crimp/right foot up/span left for good holds thingy variation as, seemingly, the best way.
Would seem no change to grade??

[Scouse D]

I'm the one who pulled the hold off...sorry bout that, it was a massive Jug I pulled off though not a crimp.
I found the best method now is to go left to a decent sidepull then left again to a jug (wide span). I can't see that the loss of this hold will make any difference.
Andy also pulled the crux hold off the 8a+ Right of supercrack (next to 2nd bolt). This will probably still go without this hold(still a small edge there)
We also tried the route Left of Squealer which we found a bit disappointing really. It seemed to have very poor rock on the lower wall and a seemingly chipped crux hold.
The Routes on the Right side of the crag look to be on much better rock and I'll be back to try them.

[JC]

We also tried the route Left of Squealer which we found a bit disappointing really. It seemed to have very poor rock on the lower wall and a seemingly chipped crux hold.

Yeah well a few weeks ago i turned up at the crag to find that some idiot had very poorly glued a massive finger jug over where the crux crimp used to be!  So rather than glue something else on i just re-created the original hold. Its exactly the same as it was now.   The route is less than a year old and has only seen 2 ascents so the rock will settle down.

You must be pulling pretty hard   

[Andy F]

We also tried the route Left of Squealer which we found a bit disappointing really. It seemed to have very poor rock on the lower wall and a seemingly chipped crux hold.

When I gave this a go I thought the bottom wall was very dusty and dirty, but the climbing itself was fine and would clean up nicely with a few ascents. That crux crimp did seem a bit 'manufactured', but then again the whole wall is manufactured. The top section, and the finish in particular, I thought were excellent.

[Fiend]

Aaaaah Scouse you fat cunt, which hold did you pull off??  Someone explain it to me 

[Andy B]

Andy also pulled the crux hold off the 8a+ Right of supercrack (next to 2nd bolt). This will probably still go without this hold(still a small edge there)

It will still go, but it will be a fair bit harder as the remaining edge is poorer than the original, and you can't pinch it like you could.

[Scouse D]

Aaaaah Scouse you fat cunt, which hold did you pull off??  Someone explain it to me 

Once you get to the Jug after the crux you make hardish moves out Left to reach good holds. The hold I pulled off was a jug in the groove which wasnt really needed anyway (i.e on easy ground between the move left and the rest ledge)
I'm sure it won't affect anyone's sequence drastically.

[JC]

Andy also pulled the crux hold off the 8a+ Right of supercrack (next to 2nd bolt). This will probably still go without this hold(still a small edge there)

It will still go, but it will be a fair bit harder as the remaining edge is poorer than the original, and you can't pinch it like you could.

Do you reckon it would notch up the grade? The start was pretty desperate before it came off,  is the remaining edge solid now?? if so i will probably leave it as it is.

Cheers

[Fiend]

Once you get to the Jug after the crux you make hardish moves out Left to reach good holds. The hold I pulled off was a jug in the groove which wasnt really needed anyway (i.e on easy ground between the move left and the rest ledge)
I'm sure it won't affect anyone's sequence drastically.

Oh phew, I think I know the one you mean. Rest jug > angled thing out left (via span off jug or crossover into RH sidepull) > jug in groove > big ledge > break?

All is forgiven 

[ChrisC]

Once you get to the Jug after the crux you make hardish moves out Left to reach good holds. The hold I pulled off was a jug in the groove which wasnt really needed anyway (i.e on easy ground between the move left and the rest ledge)
I'm sure it won't affect anyone's sequence drastically.

Oh phew, I think I know the one you mean. Rest jug > angled thing out left (via span off jug or crossover into RH sidepull) > jug in groove > big ledge > break?

All is forgiven 

If its the one I think then it is a tooth shaped shield of rock half way between the end of the lower crux and the resting ledges.  It was properly wobbly and looked to have been glued in the dim and distant pas as there was loads of decayed glue like stuff around its rim.  I was going to stick it back down next visit to try and prevent it landing on a rope or someones head.  Guess there's no need anymore. 

You would have spanned out to the small 2 finger pocket from if doing the RH finish to the squealer.  If it is this one then it won't make the squealer any harder - not sure about the direct though.

[JC]

Sounds like it will have affected the direct version, i think i used that hold with my left hand to get the two finger pocket! lol   i will have to re-climb it again now 

[Scouse D]

Sounds like it will have affected the direct version, i think i used that hold with my left hand to get the two finger pocket! lol   i will have to re-climb it again now 

You'll have to re-climb your 8a+ too, as this is now significantly harder.

[Andy B]

Andy also pulled the crux hold off the 8a+ Right of supercrack (next to 2nd bolt). This will probably still go without this hold(still a small edge there)

It will still go, but it will be a fair bit harder as the remaining edge is poorer than the original, and you can't pinch it like you could.

Do you reckon it would notch up the grade? The start was pretty desperate before it came off,  is the remaining edge solid now?? if so i will probably leave it as it is.

Cheers

I think that this is an appealing line with nice moves, but unfortunately I'm not convinced it will ever stablise. I snapped off at least one foothold every time I pulled on, and the handhold that exploded seemed as solid as anything on the wall. The rock on this section [and the route left of Squeeler] seemed to be mainly quartz crystals held together by mud. Grade wise, I probably don't do enough routes to be able to accurately say, but if it was a boulder problem up to the juggy pockets then the snappage would definitely have altered the grade. It has changed from a steady, aggresive lock off, to an on-off deadpoint, and if you couldn't lock off the move before, then slapping the remaining edge will be hard to snag.

[Jerry Morefat]

This thread has been quiet for a while, so I thought I'd resurrect it by mentioning that blessed are the weak  (7a+/7b) and hallowed by thy name (7c) at Willersley are both well worth doing if you're in the south peak area. They're certainly as good as anything else in the area, both stay dry in showers and neither seem to seep which is useful in this 'barbeque summer' we are experiencing. There you go, there is no excuse now, get to it!

[JC]

      Glad to hear they're getting a few ascents. I thought Hallowed Be Thy Name was v. good,  the crux moves over the bulge are excellent.