[Bonjoy]

I'd wager they're all bone dry at the mo. Long Tor is shady all the time, Lorry Park gets shade in the morning (I think), New Bridge is south facing but tree shaded, High Tor is very sunny, Willersley shady and Turkey Dip shady.

[belperpete]

They're all in great condition, as Jon predicted.
I will make a topo of Newbridge Buttress available soon. Since the re-equippping, it has had some attention and
positive comments about the quality have been heard.

[Dolly]

Reckon LTQ will be warm enough on Sunday ?

[Bonjoy]

Aye

[belperpete]

Reckon LTQ will be warm enough on Sunday?

Hello Dolly. Aye. Aye. The weekend weather isn't going to cause many problems, I (predict) hope!
Which of our quality route/s are you hoping to get on?
Have you got all the info on other sport routes in the South Lime area?
Have a good day!

[Dolly]

OK cheers.
Hello Pete - haven't seen you for ages mate. In fact I had a look in my diary and it says the last time we climbed together was in June 98 where we went for a pint in the Angler's Rest before going down the Dale.
I think we'll see how we feel, but I think we'll have a look at the Boltest at some stage tomorrow.
I've got the info from http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Long%20Tor%20Quarry%20Topo.htm and other bits and pieces from Gary's site. Is that where all the info is ?
Cheers

[belperpete]

You'll not be disappointed with the route (it's bone dry, I called in tonight)
and one of the best of the grade, without doubt!!
Warm up on Orcadian Donkey's... and/or/as well as something on the right and go for it.
Bolt positions pretty good (maybe an extended, higher up?).
Yep, Long Tor, Turkey Dip info on Gary's site.
Lorry Park (which is, incidentally, getting more and more used) topo on a UKB link.
High Tor/Willersley sport detailed via links on UKB.
Newbridge Buttress topo to be posted via link on UKB soon!
Have you been to Masson Lees yet, or any of the other sport crags in the area?
Enjoy your climbing.

[belperpete]

Although I copped it for work all bank holiday weekend, JC tells me that
there were quite a few ropes at Lorry Park on Sunday. Edge of Darkness,
Thunder Road, Supercrack, Ground Zero, The Squealer, Dark Matter etc.
Yes, it's a shitty location, but the climbing IS fantastic, by any measure and
it's good to see them getting the attention they deserve. Still some 2nd ascents to bag, too!
I've just noticed Andy F has posted positive comments - well done, that man.

[IanP]

We were down on Sunday, had an excellent day.  Good looking wall with some very worthwhile routes, and not actually an unpleasant a place to climb as long as you don't look behind you!  Good effort on cleaning and equipping the routes.

As well as a few teams climbing there was some surreal business with a group of polish guys / women who turned up looking for easy routes, messed around on JC's fixed rope on the left of the crag and then proceeded to have a barbecue 

[Andy F]

Yes, it's a shitty location, but the climbing IS fantastic, by any measure and
it's good to see them getting the attention they deserve. 

IMHO The Squealer is a good a 7c as I've done in a long while. The moves were continuously interesting, varied and testing. So good infact, it'd be 3* in Yorkshire, and there's not much higher praise I can give 

[Jerry Morefat]

Does anyone know what Lorry park is like/likely to be like after all of this rain?

[Falling Down]

A couple of mates were there Sunday and the steeper sections of the routes were staying dry but the tops were wet.

[Bonjoy]

Long Tor is generally a better bet in the rain, but will eventually get wet at the top if the rain is very heavy/prolonged

[Jerry Morefat]

cool, cheers guys. I take it there are no seepage problems at either long tor or lorry park at the moment then?

[belperpete]

Had a look round last night, after work and Lorry Park does have some annoying seepage areas.
There's still plenty OK there, but Bonjoy got it spot on with Long Tor. It was actually still bone dry and a couple of guys
were 'warming up' on Mrs Jackson.. Despite a heavy shower setting in soon after, I don't think there'll be any difference now.
Good time to get on Boltest etc.
Don't forget Newbrige Buttress, which is just about always dry and the High Tor/Willersley (although not as much of it) sport.
Not sure about Masson Lees, but Slaley Brook is fine, where Too Monsterosity (which is vying with Supercrack as "The best 7a in the Peak, easily",
according to comments made earlier this month on Rockfax/UKC) truly IS brilliant.

[Neil F]

...a couple of guys were 'warming up' on Mrs Jackson.. Despite a heavy shower setting in soon after, I don't think there'll be any difference now.

That'll be us then!

Desperately frustrating evening.  Andy got the (non) warm up, but as soon as I set off, the heavens opened and the run-off soon drenched the finish.  So instead I clipped up Tatanka Yotanka, which I last did on nuts and pegs, about 15 years ago.

At that time the whole ambience of the place was completely different, with a huge sycamore tree encroaching on the rock.  JP really must be congratulated for including sawing in his training regime a few years back, and those that followed (including me!) have ensured that LTQ has been transformed from a shady, dank hole to something much more open and attractive, and more importantly, quick drying.

The clearing off of the rake leading up right was also a great job.  Was that you and Jon, Pete?  If so, your sterling efforts are much appreciated.

The only think LTQ is missing is some easier warm-ups.  Have you thought about continuing the clearance round the corner to the next wall?  It has an old Ian Parsons E5 on it, which I suspect is still awaiting its 3rd ascent (I did the second, back in the day), but that whole wall would now be better equipped in line with the rest of the quarry.  I'll run this by Ian if you like....?

Cheers

Neil

[Bonjoy]

I did the initial clearing of the rake and some removal of smaller trees at ground level. Rigging a traverse line accross the top of the crag was fairly hairy, then quite a few hours hanging on an ab rope hacking at brambles. I even went as far as sweeping off as much soil as I could from the ledges to prevent re-growth. Jon and Pete did some more work the following year particularly on the top bit where some more routes were added. I also stripped a huge swath of ivy off the RH butress which has two good routes Human Capital 6c+ and Scum Manifesto 7a+, but I dare say they'll still need a tidy up before being properly climbable.

[shark]

 It has an old Ian Parsons E5 on it,

 

[Neil F]

I did the initial clearing of the rake and some removal of smaller trees at ground level....

Nice one, Jon.  I'm grateful to everyone who has contributed to the transformation here, as well as at LPQ.

I also stripped a huge swath of ivy off the RH butress which has two good routes Human Capital 6c+ and Scum Manifesto 7a+, but I dare say they'll still need a tidy up before being properly climbable.

Could be worth a rebolt and further clean.  I remember enjoying both these routes when I climbed them back in the dark ages.

Neil

[belperpete]

Sorry Neil, I didn't realise it was you, otherwise I would have been more sociable!
Yeah, it had been a pretty good day, weatherwise, but crapped out later.
That's been pretty much the pattern recently, so the lesson is to get out asap.
Yes, there aren't any proper warm up routes at LTQ but the right side will eventually get some attention and should provide quite a few more routes.
Apart from Mrs Jackson's, Crystalline and Sac du Sable offer the best hope (and are not bad routes!).
LPQ could serve as a 'warm up' crag (Edge of..., Thunder Road...), as it couldn't be much closer!!
Good on Bonjoy for starting the 'new wave' at LTQ. Will do some more ledge clearing higher up sometime (think I've still got a shovel up there).
Regarding Lorry Park, I DO accept that simply 'popularising' a selection of trad routes on a mixed style crag, is not a wholly justifiable argument for retro-bolting said routes.
However, comparing the neglect of the place (as with a few others) over many years, of both sport AND trad routes, with the relative popularity evident now, I do feel OK with the change.
I would like to complete the switch to wholly sport, by retroing On The Road, Shattered Air and Desolation Angels. Thus, with the future addition of one or two new routes,
the crag will provide the best part of 30, mostly top class sport routes, of an excellent range of difficulty.
In particular, I have fond memories of the first - it's an absolute classic line - and climbed it several times during the 80/90's. However, in over a quarter of a century!!, it has
had relatively few ascents and has not been climbed for a long time. Although I cleaned it last year, predictably, it has had no takers since.
Now, some people may well feel that there's a 'thin end of the wedge' plot involved, but I really don't feel that this absent minority should dictate in this case.
Sorry to bang on so - life's really too short, isn't it?





 

[belperpete]

 :goodidea:Of possible interest, in the hot weather, may be that, having called in at Turkey Dip, Lorry Park, Long Tor and Newbridge Buttress today, in boiling weather down here,
all these brilliant crags were displaying great climbing conditions! All were bone dry, shaded from the sun and catching a soothingly cool breeze.
Turkey Dip is great for those wanting to top up/test out on mainly juggy power moves and in a beautifully quiet setting.
Lorry Park has the crimpy, quality selection, covering a great range of grades. Don't expect to be alone there.
Long Tor is a surprising oasis, right by the A6. Seemingly, from the road, a dismal place to climb, a walk-in comparable to Raven Tor gets you to the base of a shaded, but open face,
with climbing of a vertical and crimpy nature.
Newbridge, the smallest venue, is the only unquarried face and offers a great session or two. I will soon get a topo onto UKC.
Most of these crags have significant 2nd ascents awaiting for the history book, but don't expect them to be easily won! 
Disappointingly, apart from the almost predictable (these days) and justifiable ropes on lorry Park, nobody else was around, apart from a few on the trad at High Tor and Wild Cat.
Now, today, I know it was FA cup final day (by the way, did anybody catch the Rugby League after, between HKR/Warrington - a zillion times better!!), but there's more hot weather
in store, so, if you're looking for sport venues to suit, you won't do much better than the Matlock area.
 

[Mark Lloyd]

 It has an old Ian Parsons E5 on it,

Would that be the Simon Lee E5 new boots and panties ?

[Bonjoy]

 It has an old Ian Parsons E5 on it,

Would that be the Simon Lee E5 new boots and panties ?

No it's called Matt the Hoople. NB&P is on House of Common's Buttress

[abarro81]

Maybe its just me (actually, it's not, my mate thought this too) but I found turky dip way too painful to be fun.. Those cracks just hurt like hell. Long tor, however, I thought was great, and lorry park seemed good though I didn't do much there.
It's not matlock area but is southern peak - anyone know if thormen's moth is dry?

[T_B]

anyone know if thormen's moth is dry?

I heard second hand that it was.. and would imagine it is so from last night's foray on the slime.