I haven't campused for some time, but my experience was that the biggest gains I made were all in the first couple of weeks.Whatever you train for, even hypertrophy, the gains you make in the first couple of weeks are neural, after that physical adaptations start to take over (depending on load/rep/rest structure). My deadhanging is aimed at promoting hypertrophy, so it has to be done long term - I look at 6-12 weeks to make any lasting changes. But because it's hypertrophy training it doesn't matter if you're not 100% fresh when you train (unlike power), so I do a session after a day at the crag (providing I'm not completely trashed). This way it doesn't interfere with my climbing, and I don't have to worry about a conversion phase.
I haven't campused for some time, but my experience was that the biggest gains I made were all in the first couple of weeks.
I did try measuring overall CSA but gave up after inconsistencies with the measurement details: which part of the arm, flexed or relaxed, pre/post training. In the end I just use 1RM tests as a measure of improvement. My Deadhanging routine is 10x10secs with 5secs rest intervals. Originally it was 4x30s with 1min rests, but I think this is too long without flexing the joints to lubricate them. It's loosely based on studies that have shown greater CSA and strength increases with isometric exercise at longer durations, and increased CSA/strength with exercises done with either tourniquet or intra-muscular pressure (through isometric contraction) induced ischaemia.
I would be interested in reading these studies, can you provide a link or post an attachment?
My Deadhanging routine is 10x10secs with 5secs rest intervals. Originally it was 4x30s with 1min rests, but I think this is too long without flexing the joints to lubricate them. It's loosely based on studies that have shown greater CSA and strength increases with isometric exercise at longer durations, and increased CSA/strength with exercises done with either tourniquet or intra-muscular pressure (through isometric contraction) induced ischaemia.
this is very interesting.campusing seems to be very very complicated in its nature: for some time i have campused regularly, and despite having a few top notch sessions, sometimes i seemed to hit a plateu, in my case this is if i can't do 158 right hand every time i try.two days ago, without much serious campusing during the winter, as i've said in the blog, i went and could campus 158 right hand first try, and then with 5 kilos on. for sure mu overall power has increased alot his winter, but is this enough? facts prove it to be enough because i did it, but maybe something still escapes me: i mean, did i really campused (technically speaking) or did i just do some one armers on the rungs?is this second option spoiling the real gains of campus boarding?
Is your goal to increase MVC (Maximal Voluntary Contraction), CSA (Cross-Sectional Area) or AT (Anaerobic Threshold)? The rest periods seem to be too short to recover from a 'Max Strength' protocol or period. As the paper you provided suggested, they ran their program at 2s on w/3s rest with 40% MVC - suggesting that this is a 'Hypertrophy' protocol instead of 'Max Strength'. Is 10x10sec a specific period or what you are doing year round?
this is very interesting.campusing seems to be very very complicated in its nature: for some time i have campused regularly, and despite having a few top notch sessions, sometimes i seemed to hit a plateu, in my case this is if i can't do 158 right hand every time i try.two days ago, without much serious campusing during the winter, as i've said in the blog, i went and could campus 158 right hand first try, and then with 5 kilos on. for sure mu overall power has increased alot his winter, but is this enough? facts prove it to be enough because i did it, but maybe something still escapes me: i mean, did i really campused (technically speaking) or did i just do some one armers on the rungs?is this second option spoiling the real gains of campus boarding?I think it would be helpful to videorecord two angles of your campussing to determine if you are getting the correct technical movement. In my experience, climbers can ladder to a higher rung 3 ways; 1. use the momentum gained by the pulling of both arms (while outstretched - say, 1-3 or 1-4) and subsequent press out of the lower hand to gain a higher rung. These climbers tend to do the shortest distance. 2. use the momentum from the initial pull with both arms (as in #1), press out with the lower arm and be able to 'lock off' the upper - but still unable to gain vertical height, and advance the lower hand to a higher rung. These climbers, don't get me wrong - while still very advanced, tend to be able to do 1-4-6/1-4-7. Solidly respectable, but not elite. 3. use the momentum from the initial pull with both arms (as in #1), press out with the lower arm until it is fully outstretched and gain vertical height with the upper hand - resembling a 1 arm, to latch the higher/highest rung. These climbers, usually get 1-5-8/1-5-9.In my experience, some of the technical miscues are as follows; 1. lower body not in concert with the pull of the upper body. As one is pulling up, the knees or legs should travel upward. This usually ends sometime during the lower hand passing the upper hand. 2. straightening the upper arm as soon as it latches the upper rung. The climber, unless unusually strong from this position, tends to adduct the shoulder girdle but not bend at the elbow subsequently only being able to reach slightly higher the the upper hand. 3. not pull with both arms while in the outstretched position, say 1-3/1-4. It appears that they try to 'lock off' the upper, outstretched arm, and press out only with the lower hand - usually resulting in matching the same rung or gaining 1 higher. 4. weighting the Center of Gravity (CG) over the lower hand too much after the initial pull. Obviously a mechanical advantage to twist toward the upper rung, however, once latched, I think climbers have a difficult time activating both arms to pull to gain vertical height in this position. It seems they 'lock off; the outstretched arm and, again, try to do everything from the lower hand press out. 5. on crimpers, climbers with less ability seem to pull their CG up and away from the holds creating a horizontal angle with the forearm : crimp. The better climbers seem to pull toward the upper hand, aiming their face toward the higher held rung which keeps the forearm : crimp angle low/somewhat vertical angle - giving a more positive hold.
I think this can be summed up as being the technique element of campusing. If gaining the most height is the goal then you are correct, however this is not that standard a move in climbing (correct me if I'm wrong). I would say that it is very unusual to have to hit a hold dynamically and then move off it immediately without feet. I'm sure that there are examples of problems like this, but I bet there are not many. I can however think of many moves that involve hitting a hold and then moving again footless by a combination of pushing and pulling. What would be interesting to research is the power gains from the 'flick' movement that you describe. I would think that the research would show why there isn't such a direct link between better campusing and better climbers........
How did you come up with a few weeks (I'm assuming that means 3) for your adaptive periods?
. . . I tend to organize my phases very loosely depending on the season, the weather, what I want to be fit for . . .
Are there climbers out there who are campusing without the goal of gaining vertical height? I have personally experienced and witnessed many problems that have some variation of a campus-type move. Maybe the feet get to smear, or the overhang is not the same exact angle as the campus board, but the gross movement pattern is very similar. In addition, the kinetic values of starting strength, explosive strength and general laddering intermuscular coordination are developed by campusing.
One of my crew, just developed a V12 close to home. Scroll down for 'New front Range FA Bambi' on the list. Thomas is a V12/13 boulderer. I have witnessed him campus 1-5-8, 1 arms off 1 pad holds and easily perform muscle ups. None of these activities are to be confused with climbing, however, they are a window into his kinetic ability to adduct and flex at the glenohumoral joint - which happens in climbing on most everything past vertical. Campusing is just one aspect to improving shoulder girdle strength and power, so I include it on a weekly basis, but the volume is very low compared to what I have read from others.http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage
window into his kinetic ability to adduct and flex at the glenohumoral joint
I'll be doing 3-4wks (maybe more) of 10x10s because it was a phase interrupted by injury (I've already done 8wks), the original intention was to do around 12wks. The ~3wks is to ease me back into it before switching to max strength hangs (up to 5 secs). I tend to organize my phases very loosely depending on the season, the weather, what I want to be fit for, but I use a few general rules of thumb that tend to work for me:I need at least 12 wks to make any lasting changes in strength, and at least one session in a 10 day period to maintain those gains. I make my biggest gains in recruitment in 2 - 4wks.Power Endurance I get very quickly and plateaus around 6-8wks, it also seems to stick around for a long time with little maintenance.Bottom end endurance (onsighting endurance) takes a lot of ARCing, takes years to make improvements, and is something I've neglected for a couple of years, consequently I've got the biggest difference between my redpoint and onsight grade I've ever had.
