Campusing can also describe different exercises on the campus board, so yes climbers are. I was talking about proper campusing technique, not campusing in general. You gave 3 examples, I said that the 3rd was the perfect technique but probably the least cross over into performance.
I'm not sure why you have told us about this. Is this to do with my research in 'base levels'?
You mean his ability to generate movement from the shoulder. Who are you writing this for?
"steer clear of menstruating women before and after training."Fucking ever
I can be very insensitive at times, please list topics/vocabulary that are off limits.
My reference was laddering. I disagree about the transfer to performance. Too many climbers release the low hand contact and generate movement with remaining points of contact, instead of milking everything out of the low hand.
No, I meant the other. The discourse, at the time, was between you and I - so it was directed toward you. I can be very insensitive at times, please list topics/vocabulary that are off limits.
I did a search for Dawes second generation movement
Refine search w/ unhitching bra/waistcoat and trousers simultaneously, you might get closer . . .
where I can find Dawes' work.
Why should recruitment training only occur in short phases? I agree that the greatest gains are seen in the first couple of weeks, but presumably this is because you are starting from a level of relatively low recruitment. After two or three weeks if you increase the load rather than the length of the hang wouldn't you continue to push recruitment rather than hypertropy? Nibile, you mentioned that the Guru recommended only finger boarding several times a week for two weeks before returning to bouldering. if you;re training recruitment three days a week you'll have to dramatically cut down the amount of bouldering you do (i guess, i would anyway!). Perhaps this is why the Guru recommends recruitment training in such a short phase, to prevent loss of fluid movement, time on a diverse range of holds etc?Would it not be better to train recruitment in a lower volume per week but more steadily over several weeks/months. That way you should keep your recruitment nudging upwards without losing time on the wall? From reading Dave MacLeod's articles i think this is the approach he takes.Speculating now, if you make gains in recruitment over the course of a few weeks then i would have thought that they can be lost just as quickly. By maintaining a level for a longer period it would seem more likely to become a permenant gain. Finally, are static contractions effective at promoting hypertrophy? I remember reading (Bompa's Periodization i think) that there was little evidence to support this. Concentric contractions do clearly bring hypertrophy in other sports, and I know some people have used heavy finger curls for this purpose, but of course this type of movement has little specifically for climbing. It's never occurred to me that strong boulderers have noticeably large fore arms, certainly not out of proportion with the rest of their build. If anything trad climbers and alpinists more so, though I guess this is related to capilliarisation rather than muscle fibre gain.please set me straight if any of the above is B.S.
Interesting, for your all your sport science knowledge, you iz fukt . . .
Finally, are static contractions effective at promoting hypertrophy? I remember reading (Bompa's Periodization i think) that there was little evidence to support this. Concentric contractions do clearly bring hypertrophy in other sports, and I know some people have used heavy finger curls for this purpose, but of course this type of movement has little specifically for climbing. It's never occurred to me that strong boulderers have noticeably large fore arms, certainly not out of proportion with the rest of their build. If anything trad climbers and alpinists more so, though I guess this is related to capilliarisation rather than muscle fibre gain.
I've not experimented with the campus board yet but have been impressed with the results i've had from weighted deadhangs on a finger board. SOme thoughts on recruitment/hypertrophy:Why should recruitment training only occur in short phases? I agree that the greatest gains are seen in the first couple of weeks, but presumably this is because you are starting from a level of relatively low recruitment. After two or three weeks if you increase the load rather than the length of the hang wouldn't you continue to push recruitment rather than hypertropy? Nibile, you mentioned that the Guru recommended only finger boarding several times a week for two weeks before returning to bouldering. if you;re training recruitment three days a week you'll have to dramatically cut down the amount of bouldering you do (i guess, i would anyway!). Perhaps this is why the Guru recommends recruitment training in such a short phase, to prevent loss of fluid movement, time on a diverse range of holds etc?Would it not be better to train recruitment in a lower volume per week but more steadily over several weeks/months. That way you should keep your recruitment nudging upwards without losing time on the wall? From reading Dave MacLeod's articles i think this is the approach he takes.Speculating now, if you make gains in recruitment over the course of a few weeks then i would have thought that they can be lost just as quickly. By maintaining a level for a longer period it would seem more likely to become a permenant gain. Finally, are static contractions effective at promoting hypertrophy? I remember reading (Bompa's Periodization i think) that there was little evidence to support this. Concentric contractions do clearly bring hypertrophy in other sports, and I know some people have used heavy finger curls for this purpose, but of course this type of movement has little specifically for climbing. It's never occurred to me that strong boulderers have noticeably large fore arms, certainly not out of proportion with the rest of their build. If anything trad climbers and alpinists more so, though I guess this is related to capilliarisation rather than muscle fibre gain.please set me straight if any of the above is B.S.
wise words from the guru. there are many cats and many ways to skin them
