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Bouldering Comps (Read 15917 times)

Percy B

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Bouldering Comps
October 22, 2002, 04:23:28 pm
Sorry to use this forum to remind people of the date for the PowerBar bouldering league at The Edge in Sheffield, but our website is busted, and more people who want to know when the comps are will look at this site!
Round 1 - Friday 8th November, with 20 problems set by me and guest route setter, Sir Ronald of Fawcett! You can ring me at The Edge on 0114 2758899 if you want info or abuse - I'm happy to provide either. Obviously the problems will be of the usual standard, and for the first round competitors will have the added bonus of Rob Gawthorpe being in Egypt, so he won't be able to set his usual wierd creations. My groin strain
has only just healed from last years infamous bridging enigma :? ! Its a 'skin diver' (£5) to enter, which is cheaper than the cost in petrol to travel to you're favourite bouldering areas, and it won't be dark or wet when you arrive! Can't say fairer than that.

By the way, Mike has already put on a bit about the Lost Arrow Masters Comp. which will take place next year. Just to keep you posted, 30% of the places are already filled (!), with some scarily strong teams entered. Look at the relevant thread if you want to get a team together. You'll be cranking alongside some of the best boulderers in the world, including the likes of Moon, Dunne, Smith, Earl, Parry, Creamer, the list goes on and on..........

dave

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#1 Bouldering Comps
October 22, 2002, 04:37:57 pm
Nice one Perc! Last time i entered one of these was 2000, is there still 2 sessions going? also how busy do they get, cos i remember people falling ontop of other people etc etc it was pretty hairy. I guess you've got the woody to spread em out now though....

Yo Mike, what about getting a strong ukb team entered in the team comp? Get some fly company to sponsor the entrance fee, and hey presto. I'll volunteer my bouldering services if thats any consolation.

percy B

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#2 Bouldering Comps
October 22, 2002, 05:22:52 pm
Still two sessions, one starting at 1630, and the later one starting at 1900. You get 2 hours to dispatch as many of the 20 problems as you can. As far as congestion goes, some of the problems are set in the Woodie so its far less busy than it used to be. Nobody got squashed last year, so hopefully this trend will continue! Grades range from V0 to V10. As we all know, 'its impossible to set anything harder than V10 indoors' (Old route-setters proverb)! :twisted:

Bubba

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#3 Re: Bouldering Comps
October 22, 2002, 07:14:37 pm
Quote from: "Percy B"
Sorry to use this forum to remind people of the date for the PowerBar bouldering league at The Edge in Sheffield, but our website is busted, and more people who want to know when the comps are will look at this site!


That's ok Percy - no bother at all  :)

Bubba

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#4 Bouldering Comps
October 22, 2002, 07:33:31 pm
Quote from: "dave"

Yo Mike, what about getting a strong ukb team entered in the team comp? Get some fly company to sponsor the entrance fee, and hey presto. I'll volunteer my bouldering services if thats any consolation.


Not a bad idea there Dave - Now I'm not really good enough for comps but you and James, fatboyslimfast, and ??? How many form a team?

I'm quite happy to video proceedings - will there be some choons needed spinning like last time I wonder?

underground

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#5 Bouldering Comps
October 22, 2002, 08:57:36 pm
Hey Percy, this is the Friday evening league I presume? Maybe you can drop me an email through the forum about the Lost Arrow, and in particular the finest funk DJ's setting fire to the dancefloor at the after comp party...... It would be wicked to do it again....

You know who i am dude  :wink:

dave

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#6 Bouldering Comps
October 23, 2002, 08:48:29 am
Quote from: "Bubba"

Not a bad idea there Dave - Now I'm not really good enough for comps but you and James, fatboyslimfast, and ??? How many form a team


6, 2 of which have to be honeyz. I;m afrain ukb will have to supply the climbing hos.

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#7 Bouldering Comps
October 23, 2002, 09:05:39 am
I'll sort me bitch out tonight.... she's never really climbed before like, but she'll sure look damn good in that thong she'll have to wear.

oh shit, if she ever reads this I'm dead!

Percy

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#8 Bouldering Comps
October 23, 2002, 12:53:24 pm
Can't get the email thingy to work, due to my technical incompetance (commonly on display when climbing too!) Of course you can come an play some of your records, young James. It wouldn't be the same without you. The party is on the evening of Saturday 1st March, and is a sponsored event! I will attempt to pay you as we did last time - a pint a track until comatose! Obviously, for everybody else, you can only come to the party if you've let me abuse you with horrific problems during the day or you bribe me with beer.  :D

dobbin

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#9 Bouldering Comps
October 28, 2002, 01:00:17 pm
I really liked your problems at the Edge Percy, good style and dope moves. Almost makes up for having a dodgy barnet  :lol: I jest of course!

dave

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#10 Bouldering Comps
November 07, 2002, 10:59:04 am
:!: Bump :!:

So who's doing the comp tomorrow nite? I thought I'd give it a go, with a couple of mates - should be a good laugh. :lol:  Anyone else going???

Also does the evening session start at 1900 or 1930?? :?:  I've heard differing reports.....

Percy B

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#11 Bouldering Comps
November 07, 2002, 07:25:26 pm
Evening session starts at 1900. I've already set a few of the problems and I'm prepared to bet a jam tart that nobody will flash them all, so come on down and bring you're strongest set of shoulders - you'll need them! :twisted:

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#12 Bouldering Comps
November 08, 2002, 10:58:21 am
I'm coming - what are the standard of the problems? I mean, will i be able to do any of them? I want that Jam Tart!

dave

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#13 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 11:14:34 am
Nice on Perc - problems were pretty good, some nice slopey stuff there. I'm now looking forward to the rest of the rounds.

So didn't anyone else here go? what did you recon? I found as usual i could either flash a problem, or not do it at all, not really much middle ground!

Did anyone get up #20 Perc? and are the results appearing on t'internet anywhere?

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#14 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 12:23:03 pm
I did! it was class! the problems where brilliant! the usual formula for bouldering comps is that if you can crimp, or better still hang a crimp on one arm then you'll clean up - not so! well set, good climbing - excellent.

Re Problem 20, i got to the bonus hold on the flash and couldn't improve on that in any subsequent goes. That other one to its left the one where you got the slopey nose thing and had to mantle it for the slug - that was hard n'all.

My only criticism (and its more of an excuse) is that i didn't know there were any problems in the woodie and ended up doing them last and I think i could have ticked them had I done them fresh. But still, only really went to have a buzz and see who turned up - a good night had by all.

I got 140. Like you Dave, I flashed 14 and didn't do anything I didn't flash.

dave

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#15 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 12:45:39 pm
I didn't think there was anything in the steep-power-crimp-yanking style that i favour (which was a shame!), thus i only got a measly 126. There were a couple of problems which i had one abortive go at, failed, then later on after the time limit i got it easily. I recon i can improve on 126 in the next rounds, as i'm out of practice at comps.

#19 was a strange one - piss but tiring up to 2 moves from the end, then it got silly. Still i got a bonus on the flash there..... can't complain.

The next round is a week after i return from Font, so I should be shit-hot on slopers by then!

dobbin

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#16 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 01:00:19 pm
which one was 19 fella? and what do you look like???

dave

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#17 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 01:22:46 pm
#19 was the red taped one at the far end of the woody, lip traverse hands for feet, then up. Saw some truly abysmal footwork exhibited by some quite notable climbers!

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#18 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 02:13:43 pm
Right, I did that one post humously (after the time was up and after about 4 goes) and as you say you were yarding off jugs until the last bit then I think I used a figure of four to gain a good hold before the top. Hurrah.

Its Leeds this Friday if anyone fancies it???

dave

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#19 Bouldering Comps
November 11, 2002, 02:29:30 pm
Figure of 4???? Mentle.

Bubba

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#20 Bouldering Comps
November 14, 2002, 04:21:43 pm
Percy has just posted me the results of the comp, so I've put them up here.

Good to see some woman's results halfway up the scale...

dave

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#21 Bouldering Comps
November 14, 2002, 04:30:10 pm
One of those "women" isn't. I'll say no more. :wink:

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#22 Bouldering Comps
November 15, 2002, 06:04:40 am
Have they got very long hair? Sporting a nice set of man-breasts?

Ok, my guess is either Kym Leyland or Toni Morgan - all the others have got to be 'airy blerks  :?:

dave

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#23 Bouldering Comps
November 15, 2002, 08:48:16 am
Yeah its Kim, but keep it under your hat cos if he get a bit stronger he stands a chance of placing in the girls comp!!!

dobbin

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#24 CompTastic
December 02, 2002, 09:47:54 am
Morning all! this Friday is the next round of Percy's marvellous La Sportiva bouldering comp, guess there are two sessions again - quality problems last time - looking forwards to these and then a week Saturday its the Foundry leg of the BBC. Entries are first come first served and you have to get the form off the BMC website or click this:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/indoor/comps/Entry%20form%20BBC02-03.pdf

Gaz Paz won Preston btw.

 

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