[old cheese]

that dreadlocked lothario Dan Bradley from Nottingham managed the joker in under 10 goes on saturday. looked piss

[Somebody's Fool]

Couldn't agree more with those FACTS. The best conditions day EVER was when I pulled onto the Joker for 20 minutes. I couldn't pull on at all on Sunday, which proves the point. Oh my god I was soooo FLAMBOYANT that day!!!!!!!

Care to elaborate?  What does FLAMBOYANT mean etc?

[Jim]

a floating flam? but whats a flam?

[AndiT]

[
fully agree with you there word. too cold and the body doesn't work....

it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.

Definitely, either that or we're getting soft. It seems obvious to me that friction doesn't just get better and better as the air gets colder and colder. At some point in the last twenty years a rumour has started saying that it needs to be freezing and this has perpetuated into what many now believe to be fact. Mind you, it's great for excuses 'it's not cold enough, it's not cold enough, it's not cold enough, it's too cold'

[Eddies]

it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.

I went up the Roaches on sat and saw lots of frosty shits.
Was windy as fook tho, started on't upper tier with 'Drunk enough' and 'Too drunk' then retreated down the steps to 'The Gutter' a logical progression I think?
 

[Johnny Brown]

In my experience, as long as you can get warm and stay warm friction pretty much does improve with decreasing temperature. Obviously humidity is the next most important factor. Wind can give or take, if the air is warm it improves things, if its cold I find it chills you too much to take advantage of the colder conditions.

I honestly believe conditions on sunday were as good as I've ever experienced. I got a new highpoint on the joker and the pocket on Careless felt as good as it ever has. And of course (and the real clincher) deliverance traverse was PISS! I saw you path it too Kershaw.

Every year I get more convinced that 'glassy' is purely a skin issue and not related to the rock condition. The skin issue is related to temps though, so I guess the key is to warm up more than normal and try to keep the tips warm.

[Fiend]

That's what was needed. SCIENCE. 

I found it a bugger to warm-up and balancing out numbness with sweatless tips, but when the fingers felt right it did feel very good, despite the haze and stuff.

it was lovely out though with all the frost n shit.

Word to that. The veins of ice tinkling off the tree branches around the Secret Garden were particularly charming. Proper winter is great 

[AndiT]

Here's my Science behind it:

Boots stick better when they are warmer than the rock. The rubber warms up from your feet inside the boot, hence if your feet are well cold, the rubber won't warm up and the effect is lost. It's all about that difference in temperature that matters.

Glassy skin, yeah, that's down to skin moisture. I need to spit on my hands when it's really cold to moisten them up, if the air is moist though this does the job. There seems to be a certain coldness when i can no longer get my hands properly warm.

With this in mind, there seems to me, personally, to be a sweet point between warm and cold as opposed to just more cold = more better.

 

[Jim]

Glassy skin, yeah, that's down to skin moisture. I need to spit on my hands when it's really cold to moisten them up, if the air is moist though this does the job. There seems to be a certain coldness when i can no longer get my hands properly warm.

Word! I always have to spit on my hands when its cold, gets rid of the glassyness. Its definatley a skin issue. I've been trying to get people to believe me for years now.
At last someone else has seen the light. You have more than made up for your mistakes on the patio thread - have some + karma from me

[Falling Down]

Boots stick better when they are warmer than the rock. The rubber warms up from your feet inside the boot, hence if your feet are well cold, the rubber won't warm up

Word...

My tips for nice toasty sticky boots are:

- Instead of driving to the crag with them in your sack in the boot, take them out and put them on the dashboard so the car heater warms them up. (This can have the nasty side effect of making the car stink mind...)

- Once you get to the crag, stick 'em inside your duvet under your arms on the walk in.

[slackline]

- Instead of driving to the crag with them in your sack in the boot, take them out and put them on the dashboard so the car heater warms them up. (This can have the nasty side effect of making the car stink mind...)

Isn't this tip in the 'purple' Font guide too?

[Falling Down]

No idea as I don't own one ... perhaps they heard it from me 

[Johnny Brown]

don't mess about with all that, just hyperventilate into them before putting them on

[Jim]

I do both

[Percy B]

I walk in with boots inside my coat to warm them up. They get much warmer and less moist than the breathing into them deal, (although this works well to rewarm them mid session). I lick my glassy tips to make the skin stick better when its cold - this freaks a lot of people out, but works for me. As a rule, anything below 4 degrees is too cold for good friction between rock and skin in my experience, and with my dry, thick skin.

[lagerstarfish]

I lick my glassy tips to make the skin stick better when its cold - this freaks a lot of people out, but works for me.

I got laughed at when I first discovered this by accident when squeaking my boots one winter and have done it secretly since then - never quite sure whether I was merely carrying out some superstitious, neurotic ritual. I am so relieved that it is now acceptable to come out about such things.

[Eddies]

Now look what youve gone and done AndiT, their all coming out of the closet now!
Finger licking good 

[lagerstarfish]

Back on topic...
Yes. Burbage South was fuckin' mint. Beautiful active rest day. Lovely sunset. Ahhhh. 

[fatdoc]

gonna be astounding for days...

saw on sight of the knock, and nosfaratu.... i was bouldering... real good... doesnt have to be freezing to be sticky some days!!!

[Fiend]

Absolutely sweltering 

[fatdoc]

should have got out early then 

[Jaspersharpe]

Anyone know what the weather's doing Peakwards today? It's nice where I am North of the city. Quite cold and sunny / patchy cloud.

[lagerstarfish]

Possibility of a shower, but wind should dry it off. I'm keen to get out as early as poss and will hopefully have a charged up lamp to take... where d'ya fancy?

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm still trying to work out if I can justify fucking off from work early which basically I cant but might do anyway. Will let you know.

[Jim]

A little warm to start off with but went cold as it was going dark