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YYFY!!! (Read 2102848 times)

Baldy

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#3275 Re: YYFY!!!
August 26, 2012, 09:16:23 pm
YYFY,

After a 3 hour drive, walking in and finding it sopping wet, drying the problem for about an hour, nursing my split tip, borrowing mats from some nice japanese people that didnt speak any english and warming up...

I finally did Caroline! :bounce:

6 or 7 sessions, wrote it off after the second, then got drawn back to it.

My hardest climb to date by a long way (the other 7C here aren't even remotely close)

Unfortunately, I split open my tip again when I tried to get some photos, so the following days in Cape town will be interesting.

4 days left for the trip.

WOOT  :dance1:

Andy F

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#3276 Re: YYFY!!!
August 27, 2012, 03:09:00 am
First 7C. Or maybe 7B+. Who cares, it's harder than my previous best efforts on the blocs. YYFY indeed  :2thumbsup:

andy_e

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#3277 Re: YYFY!!!
August 27, 2012, 07:07:59 pm
Underhand Extension? If so, you've been hanging around with Caleb too much. Effort beast!

slackline

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#3278 Re: YYFY!!!
August 27, 2012, 11:01:07 pm
Off to Hatun Machay tomorrow for a days sport-climbing and bouldering. Can't wait, should be nicely acclimitised for climbing at 4200m now.  :bounce:

Looks great....


SA Chris

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#3279 Re: YYFY!!!
August 28, 2012, 08:19:43 am
Cool. Looks like casle Hill on steroids. But I guess with a bit less polish.

Andy F

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#3280 Re: YYFY!!!
August 28, 2012, 10:40:53 am
Underhand Extension? If so, you've been hanging around with Caleb too much. Effort beast!

How dare you accuse me of pulling on that mucky brown stuff  :spank:. I'll have you know it was a slightly pointless eliminate on some featureless limestone. Which has now been downgraded from 7C to 7B+. Officially, by the Guru of the Orme himself. Which still makes it my hardest bloc, and one of the goals for the year achieved  :dance1:. Oh it was the Jack Daniels/Ain't no Party link.

GCW

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#3281 Re: YYFY!!!
August 28, 2012, 10:48:15 am
First 7C. Or maybe 7B+. Who cares, it's harder than my previous best efforts on the blocs. YYFY indeed  :2thumbsup:

About time, old man!

Fiend

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#3282 Re: YYFY!!!
August 28, 2012, 11:25:25 am
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!

Andy F

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#3283 Re: YYFY!!!
August 28, 2012, 09:50:39 pm
First 7C. Or maybe 7B+. Who cares, it's harder than my previous best efforts on the blocs. YYFY indeed  :2thumbsup:

About time, old man!

You're not bloody wrong. 7C before the end of the year  :punk:

slackline

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#3284 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2012, 05:28:48 am
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!

Stunning place, I'll write it up in the wiki, but had a fucking brilliant day there today.  Only regret was I didn't over-night in the refugio and have two days there.

Only did five routes 6a+ to 6b (I'm generally a shit climber  :-[ ), but was pleased to get up all of them without falling off given the altitude and they were all really good quality.  Rock is a sandy limestone (although this may in part be attributable to the large amount of dry lichen as even the routes in the "warm-up" area weren't heavily climbed), heavily featured-pocketed and was a delight to climb on.



One thing though (which isn't really relevant for the wiki) is that you should probably get your circulation sorted prior to visiting as otherwise just pulling on to the rock will kill you.

No slight intended, and I know you're working hard on that front, but it is at 4200m alt. and despite having spent most of the past four weeks >4000m and therefore pretty well acclimiatised I was still breathless and had to climb slowly to get my breath back (and was gasping for air coming out of the wide chimney with off-widthing/laybacking).
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 06:00:11 am by slack---line »

Grubes

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#3285 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2012, 07:33:55 am
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!
Stunning place,
Nice one mate get any pictures?

Fiend

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#3286 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2012, 12:53:02 pm
Cheers slackers, looking forward to reading more.

Unless there are any major medical breakthroughs soon, I won't ever be getting my circulation sorted, but as previously discussed it's not likely to be a specific problem: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13504.msg242738.html#msg242738

slackline

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#3287 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2012, 01:39:25 pm
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!
Stunning place,
Nice one mate get any pictures?

Yep lots, but only posting those taken with the phone so far as the rest are shot in RAW (and despite my inane postings in the mornings/evenings as I'm currently solo in Huaraz I'm not spending all day sorting them on spanish M$ computers)....


Hatun Machay by slack---line, on Flickr


Hatun Machay by slack---line, on Flickr

Close-ups of some of the buttresses were taken with other cameras.  With only a day I barely scratched the surface.  A must for anyone who is ever in Peru and near Huaraz (Wiki now has details)

Jaspersharpe

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#3288 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2012, 01:52:06 pm
Looks amazing. Interesting history of the city too having been basically wiped out twice in 1941 and 1970.

slackline

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#3289 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2012, 02:02:14 pm
Looks amazing. Interesting history of the city too having been basically wiped out twice in 1941 and 1970.

Yeah its a nice place, feels safew wandering around on your own at night (at least near the centre).

Bonus is theres the Inkafest VIII mountain film festival started yesterday.  One of the films they are showing is about a guy who survived the 1970 earthquake further down the road in/near the village of Ancash which was completely wiped out by a landslide from Huscaran.  A few others I wouldn't mind seeing either including Moonflower and Flight of the Frenchies  :2thumbsup:

Anyway getting a bit  :off:

slackline

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#3290 Re: YYFY!!!
August 30, 2012, 06:22:38 am
Quote from: slackline
Stunning place, I'll write it up in the wiki, but had a fucking brilliant day there today.  Only regret was I didn't over-night in the refugio and have two days there.

going back again tomorrow :-)

tomtom

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#3291 Re: YYFY!!!
August 30, 2012, 09:08:41 am
Superb! Nice one ---slackers---

Never heard of the place, but it looks amazing...

boulderingbacon

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#3292 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2012, 10:00:06 pm
sport climbed 7b today which is good for me considering i cant do more than five moves without getting pumped.

Nibile

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#3293 Re: YYFY!!!
September 02, 2012, 05:39:45 pm
Fantastic board session today.
Climbed one project and nearly climbed two others, feeling very strong.
And all I needed was a simple...

22 degrees by Nibile, on Flickr
15 degrees drop in the temps...
Meh.

Jim

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#3294 Re: YYFY!!!
September 02, 2012, 09:45:53 pm
I knes something was missing in my life, an alarm clock with the temperature on it!

SA Chris

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#3295 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2012, 08:35:30 am
No no, it's the fish stencil that did it. Fish stencils were discovered to be a source of unimaginable power by the Romans, and the secret has been passed on via a select few ever since.

tomtom

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#3296 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2012, 09:23:05 am
Note the flask of power elixir next to the alarm clock ;)

andy_e

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#3297 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2012, 09:56:13 am
Note the flask of power elixir red wine next to the alarm clock ;)

Nibile

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#3298 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2012, 10:04:49 am
 ;D

SA Chris

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#3299 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2012, 10:23:14 am
Note the flask of power elixir next to the alarm clock ;)

That's the lamp with the genie of power in it.

 

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