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YYFY!!! (Read 2103081 times)

SA Chris

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#575 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 04:56:41 am
the file is pretty handsize dependant, mine were borderline and i didn't find it easy. the guy seconding me had even thinner hands and could hardly move on it.

i agree I had to layback that fucker, and crimp on the wall, I couldnt get a single jam in

probably because your meathooks are the size of my feet.

Andy F

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#576 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 04:56:02 pm
Awesome Andy. Nice to see you getting hard stuff done regularly at last! I'll maybe come along with you someday when I get strong enough  ;)

I'd say you were more than strong enough, just get some routes mileage in and you'll soon be pulling the crag down.

ajh

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#577 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 06:55:54 pm
I still don't get this Pebble Wall issue. If you can do DWR but not PW you are simply a technical punter. End of the matter  :P


I think you'd find yourself a technical punter too if you didn't just lank it! FWIW I tried it your way (just stand up and grab the jug - HAH!!) and I was still a crucial inch away from the finishing jug.

The undercut is the most obvious hold going - that isn't the knack people refer to on this problem. The bit people struggle with is the combination of moves to get the right foot in the correct position (which is body shape/strength dependent), position of the foot in the scoop (heel/toe, no heel/toe, point foot downwards, rock onto toe), then the point of spragging the pebble (rather than pulling on it), avoiding the temptation to look up while you're going for the top etc. I've seen it shut down more people than I've seen nail it so there must be something about it that's tricky.

In a way it's your loss - you get your tick but by reaching past the issue you kind of miss out on what makes it a great problem. Then again, maybe I'm just sore 'cos this was one problem where I couldn't just reach past the hard bit!

Fiend

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#578 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 08:42:42 pm
This is a VS you fucking Punters...   :lol: Thin hands??? Jesus H Christ
There are not enough wad points in existence to give you for that  :thumbsup:

Thin hands thin hands lol. Just cup the thumb in a bit more and twist them a bit. Unless the 7c massive have all got some weirdo retarded thumb muscle issue too :P

neil h

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#579 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 08:54:20 pm
This is a VS you fucking Punters...   :lol: Thin hands??? Jesus H Christ
There are not enough wad points in existence to give you for that  :thumbsup:

Thin hands thin hands lol. Just cup the thumb in a bit more and twist them a bit. Unless the 7c massive have all got some weirdo retarded thumb muscle issue too :P

I got thumb issues, and jammiong issues, jamming was only invented for punters who cant climb properly,  :P

Jaspersharpe

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#580 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2009, 12:43:52 pm
I recall once in the dim and distant past there was a comp at The Foundry and someone had the bright idea of putting a jamming crack in the mens final. I remember being most pleased that I hadn't bothered entering when I heard about the fiasco. Someone (cofe you can ask him) might like to correct me on this but I think Jon Barton won or came second as there was only him and Vickers who could jam. How we laughed.

cofe

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#581 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2009, 07:20:34 pm
i hope he doesn't see this anecdote. he'll be unbearable.  ;)

Ru

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#582 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2009, 08:33:37 pm
Jon is well aware of this anecdote. I'd go as far as saying it's one of his favourites. I'm suprised he's not told you Cofe. I can only think it's becuase he must think you already know. In Jon's version I think he also turns round whilst jamming and waves to the audience. Legend.

Andy Harris

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#583 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2009, 09:17:09 pm
he did turn around and wave at the audience!

everybody else struggled like hell.

cofe

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#584 Re: YYFY!!!
April 10, 2009, 10:40:34 pm
I can only think it's becuase he must think you already know.

let's try and keep it that way. i'm counting on you guys. yeah?

Falling Down

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#585 Re: YYFY!!!
April 11, 2009, 07:53:55 am
Plantpot set the route I think.

cowboyhat

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#586 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 12:56:24 am
he did turn around and wave at the audience!

everybody else struggled like hell.

moose

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#587 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 07:22:09 pm
Happy Easter everybody!  Another longish term project realised: Crimpy Roof at Brimham (only 3-4 sessions spread over a year or so, a mere dalliance compared to Underhand).  A lovely problem with a fantastic recumbant start that somehow doesn't feel contrived.  Very pleased as big, lock-offy slaps are definitely not my forte, and it was pretty hot and sunny today.  I do sometimes wonder whether I'd have a more impressive ticklist if I could climb in temperatures below 10-15 Centrigrade without Reynauds kicking in.  Hey ho, so it goes.

Think I'll celebrate with some Belgian ale and a big piece of curd tart, it's what Jesus would have wanted.


neil h

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#588 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 07:37:18 pm
good effort on goal, but easter has nothing to do with jesus

moose

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#589 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 08:03:08 pm
you go tell the Pope that.... (besides I figured that the already weak comic-effect might be diluted by an explanatory paragraph about Germanic goddesses and folk customs).

GCW

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#590 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 08:05:53 pm
Moose, are you the same Moose from YorkshireGrit?  The one that always waits for me to tick a problem I find tough, then votes it about 3 grades lower?  :lol:

Just wondered  :P

neil h

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#591 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 08:31:25 pm
you go tell the Pope that....


I will , we had a big argument last night about easter, its a pagan holiday not a christian

moose

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#592 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 09:17:16 pm
Moose, are you the same Moose from YorkshireGrit?  The one that always waits for me to tick a problem I find tough, then votes it about 3 grades lower?  :lol:

Aye that's me... sorry if I'm contributing to any tick-list deflation!  Mind you, I've lately refrained from grade-voting as my sense of difficulty has gone absolutely haywire.  It was bad enough when I was merely freakishly tall and spindly, but I've lately been getting bizarrely strong in some respects whilst remaining pitiful at others.  Having more days than ever now where I find 7b/7b+'s that are easier than 6b's?! 

a dense loner

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#593 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 10:48:47 pm
you go tell the Pope that....


I will , we had a big argument last night about easter, its a pagan holiday not a christian

so when jesus got crucified on good friday and rose again on easter sunday and christians celebrate this and we live in a christian country, this is nothing to do with christianity? eggs aside, have you been reading too much da vinci code and you also believe that francis bacon was shakespeare?  :-*

edit : it probably is a pagan holiday as well but it is also a christian one, they do share a lot of shit

Fiend

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#594 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 10:56:12 pm
I think jesus would have been bearing down at Brimham today. After stuffing himself with easter eggs for breakfast.

philo

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#595 Re: YYFY!!!
April 12, 2009, 11:03:29 pm
had one of those amazing days when you have the whole crag to yourself in the sunshine.  went with my bro to shaftoe and pottered around doing easy stuff and did slapper 3rd go.

SA Chris

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#596 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 08:01:50 am

edit : it probably is a pagan holiday as well but it is also a christian one, they do share a lot of shit

Like Xmas. It didn't originate as a christian celebration, but it certainly is in modern times. Why else would I have been dragged off to church twice a year in my youth.

Jaspersharpe

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#597 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 08:30:46 am

Like Xmas. It didn't originate as a christian celebration, they just half inched it and then burned anyone who complained.

 
 :agree:  ;)

Houdini

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#598 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 09:04:09 am
Amusingly, the banner at the bottom on the page as I type reads:  Crucifiction*  Did Jesus beat Death?   :lol:

[*haha nice typo]
« Last Edit: April 13, 2009, 09:09:25 am by Houdini »

Nibile

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#599 Re: YYFY!!!
April 13, 2009, 09:31:57 am

 

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