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YYFY!!! (Read 2102926 times)

a dense loner

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#550 Re: YYFY!!!
April 03, 2009, 03:29:03 pm
bloody hell andy, perhaps the gaston on new jerusalem hasn't got bigger after all

old cheese

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#551 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2009, 06:54:07 pm
Get in!

 :great: did Blind Fig today for the first time ever, only been trying it for the last 19 years! :thumbsup:

Sloper

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#552 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2009, 07:07:48 pm
Nice one Neil.  How's the little one?.

tommytwotone

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#553 Re: YYFY!!!
April 06, 2009, 08:12:35 pm
Know this ain't a bouldering achievement but I finally did The File today - I can finally claim to be OK at jamming, though my hands probably tell a different story!

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#554 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 03:55:17 am
Just got back from a week in the Gramps and finally felt like I was climbing properly after such a long time. No huge ticks, just a couple of V6's and a few 5's along with lots of fun times on easier stuff.

I even managed to drag my arse up something in HMC - YYFY,  :great:

Johnny Brown

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#555 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 09:25:19 am
Quote
Know this ain't a bouldering achievement but I finally did The File today

Fine effort. When I was at uni I had a friend on the british lead comp team who failed on that. How we laughed.

dave

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#556 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 09:33:13 am
the file is pretty handsize dependant, mine were borderline and i didn't find it easy. the guy seconding me had even thinner hands and could hardly move on it.

Johnny Brown

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#557 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 10:01:14 am
Thats the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard, you're saying your hands were too thin? You guys need to learn to fucking jam.

dave

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#558 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 10:10:45 am
next time you can't reach the same holds that I can i'll say "you guys need to learn to fucking be 6'1". its called morphology, some jam sizes are easier/better/comfier for certain hand sizes.

Johnny Brown

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#559 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 11:01:49 am
So you're 6'1" but with tiny hands? Or are they just thin? I thought you made that Mamiya look big.

dave

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#560 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 11:17:01 am
my hands are fairly big the flat axis, but thin front-to-back. pretty aerodynamic.

tommytwotone

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#561 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 11:40:59 am
This guy would be shit out of luck on The File...



I did try the 'my hands are too small' argument as my excuse for not being able to to The File in the past, and while I'd love to be able to say it was true I think it was just that I was bobbins at jamming. Now I can does that make me an offical northerner or something? Do I get the keys to Sheffield?




Jaspersharpe

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#562 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 11:43:11 am
I agree with dave. I was always rubbish at jamming cracks which were perfect for most folk due to not having big enough hands. It's a small price to pay mind when "two finger pockets" for the sausage fingered are three finger jugs for me so I'm not complaining. Well done anyway TTT.

Now I can does that make me an offical northerner or something? Do I get the keys to Sheffield?

No it just means you don't have to do it again.  ;)

Oli

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#563 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 11:57:39 am
It's a small price to pay mind when "two finger pockets" for the sausage fingered are three finger jugs for me so I'm not complaining.

Git. I hate it when that happens... :thumbsdown:

(Can you guess where on the sausage spectrum my fingers lie?!)

Stubbs

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#564 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 05:21:14 pm
I even managed to drag my arse up something in HMC - YYFY,  :great:

Good shit - Wheel of Life next  ;D

moose

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#565 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 06:29:23 pm
Quote
Know this ain't a bouldering achievement but I finally did The File today

Good work Mr Twotone: YYFY Old Skool stylee!  I've a similar story, my first trad weekend since last autumn saw me finally muster the gumption to do Goliath's Groove... I've been a long time avoiding that one! 

Fine effort. When I was at uni I had a friend on the british lead comp team who failed on that. How we laughed.

I once saw a lass who claimed to climb at leat F7c repeatedly fail to start Pot Hole Direct at Almscliff (UK 5a), she eventually gave up because she couldn't take the pain!


Andy F

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#566 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 07:38:15 pm
Conehead is crushed YYFY  ;D

Richie Crouch

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#567 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 07:40:29 pm
Awesome Andy. Nice to see you getting hard stuff done regularly at last! I'll maybe come along with you someday when I get strong enough  ;)

neil h

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#568 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 08:13:18 pm
the file is pretty handsize dependant, mine were borderline and i didn't find it easy. the guy seconding me had even thinner hands and could hardly move on it.

i agree I had to layback that fucker, and crimp on the wall, I couldnt get a single jam in

tommytwotone

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#569 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 08:34:55 pm
Blimey - are your hands that small - aren't you like 6 foot plus Neil?

I'm a right shortarse and I jammed it all the way...I must have massive hands for my height... :whistle:

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#570 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 10:12:35 pm
This is a VS you fucking Punters...   :lol: Thin hands??? Jesus H Christ

Falling Down

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#571 Re: YYFY!!!
April 07, 2009, 10:15:55 pm
That directed at our 7c climbing thin hand gang not you TTT - good effort to you.

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#572 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 12:02:56 am
Hello everyone, thought I'd make a little appearance. I thought The File was piss, sweet hand jams with brilliant footholds, on the inside and outside of the crack. No excuse, you just gots to jam, right.... by bending dem fingers, or not.




Will Hunt

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#573 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 12:17:44 am
I still don't get this Pebble Wall issue. If you can do DWR but not PW you are simply a technical punter. End of the matter  :P

I don't even use the heel - toe lock. I must've done it 10 times and haven't fallen off it since I first got it.

Psst. If you're still struggling then think undercut.

Carnage

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#574 Re: YYFY!!!
April 08, 2009, 04:43:46 am
Good shit - Wheel of Life next  ;D

Haha! I wish. After seeing it in the 'flesh' I can say it is an unbelievably impressive bit of climbing even if it is butt-dragging in a few places. The v11/12 gaston of Dead Can't Dance after 50 odd moves looks like a heart-breaker.

 

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