YYFY!!! (Read 2102895 times)

nik at work · February 02, 2009, 09:55:38 am

21 months.
He ticked the big slab that day, then got cold cried and demanded to go home (which is the only reason I didn't do Fight on Black honest guv...)

neil h · February 03, 2009, 03:58:57 pm

Bérézina-Carnage combinaison assis

get in, so chuffed

Jaspersharpe · February 03, 2009, 04:25:58 pm

Nice one Neil.

Which one of these is that? I'm still confused!

andy_e · February 03, 2009, 04:29:26 pm

huit-a? nice. i envy your lifestyle so much

neil's lifestyle >>>> my lifestyle

Strife · February 03, 2009, 04:41:20 pm

yyfy - first ever 7a+ today.

Jim · February 03, 2009, 05:01:55 pm

nice, which one?

moose · February 03, 2009, 05:05:53 pm

Quote from: Strife on February 03, 2009, 04:41:20 pm

yyfy - first ever 7a+ today.

Finding somewhere dry strikes me as being a bigger achievement than the climbing!

Duma · February 03, 2009, 06:02:33 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on February 03, 2009, 04:25:58 pm

Nice one Neil.

Which one of these is that? I'm still confused!

The last one surely? Effort!

neil h · February 03, 2009, 06:38:36 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on February 03, 2009, 04:25:58 pm

Nice one Neil.

Which one of these is that? I'm still confused!

this one

carnage-berezina-carnage linkup 8a? as above but finish as berezina-carnage (this is what jerry does on The Real Thing

Strife · February 03, 2009, 08:10:51 pm

Quote from: Jim on February 03, 2009, 05:01:55 pm

nice, which one?

Nothing special or well known, just the sit-start of the problem 'knuckleduster' on some local esoterica.

Quote from: moose on February 03, 2009, 05:05:53 pm

Finding somewhere dry strikes me as being a bigger achievement than the climbing!

Not only was it dry rock, it was dry sandstone.

Pantontino · February 06, 2009, 05:16:30 pm

Did Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr this morning - absolutely amazing, so psyched! Waited a long time for that.

Fiend · February 06, 2009, 05:20:07 pm

Nice. Different phlavas...

Doylo · February 06, 2009, 05:34:42 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on February 06, 2009, 05:16:30 pm

Did Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr this morning - absolutely amazing, so psyched! Waited a long time for that.

Too ill to train but well enough to go ice climbing!!

Nibile · February 06, 2009, 07:35:24 pm

a very big YYFY for me today as well:
the girls i taught italian to in the last course of the school, today waited for me during the break and gave me a bottle of wine and a letter to thank me for the teaching etc.
i almost cried.
YYFY!!!!!

Teaboy · February 07, 2009, 07:51:41 am

Quote from: Pantontino on February 06, 2009, 05:16:30 pm

Did Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr this morning - absolutely amazing, so psyched! Waited a long time for that.

Was the much coveted enchainement of Cascade and Right Wall feasible?

neil h · February 07, 2009, 08:14:45 am

Quote from: Nibile on February 06, 2009, 07:35:24 pm

a very big YYFY for me today as well:
the girls i taught italian to in the last course of the school, today waited for me during the break and gave me a bottle of wine and a letter to thank me for the teaching etc.
i almost cried.
YYFY!!!!!

and you say i have a good life

dobbin · February 07, 2009, 09:17:09 pm

Been wanting to share some love on this thread for a while, and now is the time.

After reading the gospel according to Moffatt, I learned some important lessons about professionalism, and so last night when you were in the pub quaffing ale, I was narrowly avoiding getting my car stuck in the snow in order to get to the plantation armed with a yard brush and arriving just after 10pm. I risked life and limb and didnt really make any physical difference (but it was pretty), but physical difference wasn't what I needed, it was mental edge. And mental edge I had. Today at 1130, I am delighted to report I repeated Jerry Moffatt's futuristic test piece - The Joker.

Before you ask, there were actually three people there with video cameras - Marcos, dimitrios and Hans. I brushed a spotter on the backswing on the time I actually did it, but I had unlocked the secret and knew I could do it again. So I did, and the second time was the primo go. No dabs, nice and controlled - I was all over it! I think i could do it again actually (but perhaps not now). Anyway, I am very pleased with myself, but unfortunately I owe 75% of this ascent to Jamie cos it was him the night before who cleared the top holds, and 25% to Polish Dave, without whom I would still have been trying the campus way.

Actually, there is a thing. I didnt top out, as its covered in snow. But I dont think this matters. Wait for the video and see what you think. That said, I'm pretty sure I could do it again, and perhaps I will - plus a few moves! eh? !

Percy B · February 07, 2009, 09:38:59 pm

Quote from: dobbin on February 07, 2009, 09:17:09 pm

Actually, there is a thing. I didnt top out, as its covered in snow. But I dont think this matters.

Unlucky..... Next time, eh?!?

richdraws · February 07, 2009, 09:56:17 pm

Nice work, you must be psyched to finish it?

dobbin · February 07, 2009, 10:41:41 pm

I will certainly go back and do it again when the snow is cleared, for sure - after all, I think I will be back with Dave trying the Ace - and for completeness, but I'm happy to take the tick today. I got to the jug in control.

After all, its all about the move, and that is the move - the bit above is a formality. If I'd been out of control I wouldnt take it, but there's a jug six inches back. I pulled up, touched where it would have been and hung out for a minute. Bouldering is all about pushing yourself, doing the hardest moves - I did the hardest moves, and I had beans to spare. I will be back to do the mantel as well, because in the back of my mind I want to for completeness, but in my heart I know I've done the problem.

Its like Brad pit, if you got to the jug and did a chin on it, I would give you the tick. The mantle is about 5a.

richdraws · February 07, 2009, 11:18:52 pm

I hope you enjoyed the bait.
Anyway, I would leave to see footage of you on this, I have only ever seen total beasts like Ty or Moffatt on it totally crushing it. I would like to see someone raising their game and doing it. It is something I aspire to. Well done again.

kingholmesy · February 07, 2009, 11:36:19 pm

I was puntering about about at the Plantation this morning and saw someone destroy the Joker. Twice.

Given that there was hardly anyone on the crag this must have been Dobbin, so bon effort - and independently verified.

Percy B · February 08, 2009, 07:19:59 am

Quote from: richdraws on February 07, 2009, 11:18:52 pm

I hope you enjoyed the bait.

Who said I was joking? No top out, no tick in my book (my book is very old and dog-eared, mind)

Jerry used his broom to clear the snow from the top of the boulders in The Real Thing, so he could top out.

The only time I ever did Brad Pitt I fell off the top out due to snow and ice covering the top of the boulder, and is it ticked in my book - is it fuckaslike.

At least you've got it dialled so you can do it properly when the snows gone, Dobbin. Then you can give it a proper tick in you're book and not feel bad about it. And at least you owned up to not topping out in public (and you've got your videos and independant witnesses).

Modern bouldering sucks

Long live the old school.

J.P · February 08, 2009, 07:59:41 am

Actually, he didn´t. He brushed the top jug of Biceps Mou, but didn´t top it out

Percy B · February 08, 2009, 08:34:22 am

True, but he'd done Biceps Mou before.....