UKBouldering.com

carnazinizzle (Read 7069 times)

dave

  • Guest
carnazinizzle
September 15, 2004, 09:37:43 pm
one for the playaz out there

at the end of last font trip i was trying carnazina. repeatedly pissing the move to the berezina sloper, and the next move/s to the carnage crimp and slopers. then i was trying to finish in berezina, which was proving frustrating and nails, given the fading light, and fading strength. scouse told be that was the way cos he'd seen a mate do it (i should have learnt by now about using scouse's beta...). anyway i didn't do it, and was pissed off no end cos i was pathing the start.

anyroad, gets back on tinterweb at home and on bleau.info it says it finishes up carnage, but the 7+8 guizzle sez it finishes in berezina, so whats the flava? i don't wanna go back there, do it and find some locals waving their fingers at me in disdain whilst miming being trapped in an invisble box. hopefully someone can fill me in like craig david.

also, any beta on surprise will be glady memorized and used in evidence.

peace.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#1 carnazinizzle
September 15, 2004, 11:04:13 pm
it finishes up carnage doesn't it n doesn't jerry do it telling us about the power n the subtlety at the right time being very special?

i'm not sayin this with any authority tho dave

dave

  • Guest
#2 carnazinizzle
September 15, 2004, 11:11:16 pm
no what jerry does on real thing is carnage(sitting)-berezina-carnage, which is a different thing to carnazina.

at least you were right about being no authority.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#3 carnazinizzle
September 15, 2004, 11:18:09 pm
yes, but a lot of names used in that vid were wrong. like who's ever heard of malesherbes traverse? it doesn't exist

again i'm not speakin with any authority

dave

  • Guest
#4 carnazinizzle
September 15, 2004, 11:22:59 pm
like "le saux banquet". whats that, a big meal with a footballer called graham?

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#5 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 09:38:36 am
From what I know it finishs up Carnage, the difference being that you have the chipped crimp with your left instead of your right.

Have you done the sitter to Carnage?  Its not that hard at all for the extra grades

dave

  • Guest
#6 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 09:44:29 am
no not tried the sitter, always looked shit. to be honest i don't rate carnage that much (the crimp tends to trash me skin), but hey, i like a soft 7c as much as the next man.....

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#7 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 09:59:06 am
Not that I have done Berzina but from what I'm told if you can do carnage and berzine all the link ups are piss for the grade.  Similar to the hollow mountain shizzle I guess but with more technique :lol:

dave

  • Guest
#8 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:05:09 am
a bit like that "movment perpetual" thing on the charcuterie block. what is is, traverse in, up boucherie, down charcuterie, up aragnee, down charcuterie, up angle incarne or something? Both impressive and very ghey at the same time. photo of a some guy on it with a freddie mercury tash in the gough guide.

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#9 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:06:36 am
Biceps the size of thighs   :lol:

dave

  • Guest
#10 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:10:03 am
this very photo infact:

http://bleau.info/images/faure/pendule.jpg

its a kinda magic.

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
#11 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:40:03 am
All tjhe youths who were there last time I went were of the knowledge that you finish up Berenzina, this being called Carnazina and around 7c.  Malc did berenzina into carnage - no idea what this is.  Anyway, thats me tuppney worth.

dave

  • Guest
#12 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:45:47 am
oh great, that really clears it up!

i suppose its just possible those lads were just going off whats in the guide though, which says finihs in berezina. however carnazina is supposed to be 7b+, so my money is now on finishing in carnage.

i'm sure stu littlefecker would know - come on stu drop me some SCIENCE!

DScuffle

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 127
  • Karma: +0/-0
#13 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:55:48 am
I would imaging Carnage into Berezina is Carnazina.
Whilst Berazina into Carnage would be something like Berazinage.

That would make sense to me, but I guess I would go with how bleau.anfo describe it, as that's the closest thing to an official site.

dave

  • Guest
#14 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 10:58:08 am
berezina into carnage finihs is berezina-carnage. this is what jerry does on real thing, but first he traverses in from carnage, making carnage-barezina-carnage.

thats really a situation where some tourist needs to walk up and shout "theres a easy way up found the side mate".

incidentally just found this page of font video clips:
http://www.videogrimpe.net/videobloc.htm
alas the carnazina one don't work  :cry:

DScuffle

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 127
  • Karma: +0/-0
#15 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 11:11:25 am
Quote from: "dave"
carnage-barezina-carnage.


He could have called it CarnaBareNage  :wink:

Have you got a trip out there arranged then?   Me and the other half are going out on Saturday for the week :D  :rocker:  :clap:

dave

  • Guest
#16 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 11:13:57 am
nice -  have you been since that november 2002?

we should be there last week in october, all being well. try not to cripple myself this time.

DScuffle

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 127
  • Karma: +0/-0
#17 carnazinizzle
September 16, 2004, 11:20:28 am
We were going to go last year, but someone kindly rear ended me :sex: a few weeks before we left leaving me with a nasty dose of whiplash :evil: .  So I haven't been since Nov 2002.  I can't wait :lol:

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#18 Re: carnazinizzle
November 28, 2008, 09:50:11 am
Dragging up this old thread cos I was looking at the stuff on the Carnage block on Bleau.info and trying to tie it up with what I'd heard about the link ups. No consensus was reached on this thread it seems.

Has anyone got a definitive list of what goes where and what the grades are?  :-\

I've never even tried any of the problems on this block and will be attempting to crush a few on my next visit.

Also at Cuvier - I see JB did Infidèle recently. This looks top notch. Any cunning beta?

dave

  • Guest
#19 Re: carnazinizzle
November 28, 2008, 10:15:05 am
as far as I understand:
  • carnage 7b+ (jump starts Ok)
  • Start as for carnage with RH on the berezina rail, both feet on and slap the good berezina hold, then LH onto carnage crimp, finish as for carnage, probably slightly harder 7b+ (sometimes called carnazina)
  • Start as for carnage with RH on the berezina rail, both feet on and slap the good berezina hold, finish up berezina, probably 7c (also sometimes called carnazina)
  • berezina 7c
  • carnage sitter, 7b+or c - this used to be an eliminate where you dind't match up on the bulge but pulled through for the boss jug, but since the chipping incident its probably not necessary to do this to notch the grade up a bit
  • berezina-carnage 7c/+ do berezina but from the slopers go left into carnage (taking the crimp with left ala carnazina)
  • berezina sitter, presumably 7c+, sit start up carnage but immediately bail right into the berezina start
  • carnage-berezina-carnage linkup 8a? as above but finish as berezina-carnage (this is what jerry does on The Real Thing

clear as mud.




Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#20 Re: carnazinizzle
November 28, 2008, 10:21:30 am
Clearer mud than I was looking through before though. Thanks.

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11466
  • Karma: +696/-22
#21 Re: carnazinizzle
November 28, 2008, 02:34:32 pm
Quote
Also at Cuvier - I see JB did Infidèle recently. This looks top notch. Any cunning beta?

Not an amazing problem, a bit short for my tastes, but any ticks in this area are worth doing. Top tips - try when fresh, its mainly a strength issue. Was warmed up well without being tired from half an hour on super prestat, though with what I now know may be a freshly broken wrist...

I pull on with right foot on gratton, left hand on obvious flatty, right on lower pinch. Left heel in pocket, go to higher pinch with right (as per photo http://bleau.info/cuvier/277.html). Pull on heel, go high with left hand to sloper, then again to better hold and top out. Right foot popping is likely to frustrate, as is heel not going in pocket and right hand pinch strength waning just as you suss the moves. Others get starting pinch as an undercut and just use that.

After that I went and failed on Berezina again. Now I can claim it was due to my wrist.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#22 Re: carnazinizzle
November 28, 2008, 02:40:08 pm
Nice one.

Not an amazing problem, a bit short for my tastes

Short is good!

dave

  • Guest
#23 Re: carnazinizzle
November 28, 2008, 02:47:28 pm
i tried infidelle recently (and every time before that) and its always felt nails and i can get nowhere on it. those pinches always feel garbage to me, and i'm generally OK on pinches. nice one JB.

philo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1090
  • Karma: +22/-9
#24 Re: carnazinizzle
November 29, 2008, 02:44:06 am
grrrr the carnage crimp! i still need to do carnage then i can go looking at all the link ups etc. but when i was there in june i watched watson do carnazina, berezena, berezina-carnage very quickly. infact he spent more on that 7a in the middle (abatoir?) i think its down to how well you can hold the berezina sloper(s)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal