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Unrepeated? (Read 34832 times)

AndiT

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#25 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 08:04:41 am
Does anyone know if Dan H repeated Parallel Lines. I heard that he broke his wrist falling off it, but also heard he went back and did it from another person??? Would love to know.

Idol eyes

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#26 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 12:51:29 pm

Did Twid do Hardback Thesarus?


[/quote]

 Yeah, Think JD said it was T/R, or at least inspected...

nik at work

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#27 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 05:53:22 pm
belayed him when he broke his wrist. As far as I know he hasn't gone back and done, but thats not a definitive "he's not done it". Others may know better...

mark s

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#28 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 06:02:33 pm
a little parcular as far as i know not been repeated.dawes has done the mantle but not linked it all together.needs a gymnast to do it.

nash1

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#29 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 08:05:40 pm
Didn't N Bentley do some E7 on Stanage which was supposed to be 8a. 'Groovy' or something. Has that bin repeated? Wasn't it safeish?

AndiT

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#30 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 11:43:40 am
Cheers Nik. Did he try to lead it? Didn't think that gear would be any good, been as it's really poor and really low! I'd heard there was footage of him leading it somewhere, but wasn't sure if it was a successful or pained lead. What do you know about the Young Pretender, the Mark Katz route down the hill, this still hasn't had a repeat...

mark s

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#31 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 07:12:41 pm
 i know what we think ;)

not sure if boom bip had a repeat.
roof left of parologism,but that looked hard as ....
i know i'm a bit west grit biased but thats all i can be arsed to climb on.

nik at work

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#32 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 08:02:51 pm
Yeah he was leading it with low runners. Aliens in a low flared crack? Does that sound right? They were poor because they ripped, hence the wrist.... So without the side runner. I am right in thinking it was originally done with a side runner aren't I? God I get confused...
He may well have gone back and done it, it's been several years since I've been in sheffield.
Strange you should mention Young Pretender because the day Dan did his wrist we were there with Tom DG and Iain F (I think thats who it was anyway) and they were trying YP. I didn't really talk to them about it much as we left early :) but I think the feeling was it was ok boulder problem-ish but nasty landing. I haven't even seen it so I might have competely mis-remembered this. That was my only ever visit to Hen Cloud (unless you count a quick session on the aguille), wonder what would get broken if I went back....

Teaboy

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#33 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 09:10:45 pm
Agua Calinte in the Pass?

Mission Impossible in Ogwen?

Pantontino

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#34 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 10:04:13 pm
Did Twid do Hardback Thesarus?

 Yeah, Think JD said it was T/R, or at least inspected...

I spoke to Twid about this only last week. He did it ground up. First day he took the big whipper, returned a 2nd day and made it to the break.

AndiT

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#35 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 10:08:07 pm
Nik: Yeah cheers for that, what you're saying all seems to fit with what I've already heard. I'd still love to find out if Parallel Lines has been repeated without the side runner.

Pantontino

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#36 Re: Unrepeated?
October 07, 2007, 10:13:12 pm
Mission Impossible in Ogwen?

How about getting rid of all the eyesore rusty pegs, then adding a direct start, now that really would be a super route for the next generation of hotshots! Amazing bit of rock, and well worth the walk over the top just to see it for anybody who hasn't explored the upper tier (so to speak) of Gallt yr Ogof.

Tom de Gay

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#37 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 12:03:59 am
Dan did siderunnerless Parallel Lines 'quietly and without incident' a few years back. The vid is pretty inspiring in that unmistakable 'some climbers' tripod style.

How about these for unrepeated things:

Old (and ancient) school (>10yrs old):
Loaded
Anyone done Reservoir Dogs post-pebble?
Earthboots (Scut fell off the top by treading on his shoelace)
Anyone done - or know anyone who's done - the Kipper (E4) at Earl? Has Jack on Fire (E4) at Almscliffe had a repeat?
Almost grit: has Magic in the Air had a repeat solo?

More recent(>5yrs old):
Charlie Don't Surf
Fagus Sylvatica
Superstition (Dan got pretty close on this before dislocating his shoulder on the mantel)
Some arete in Rivelin Quarry
French Kiss
Notorious BLG
Dozens of lonely E6s up on the moors
Has anyone shown any interest in Buzz Caner, Mentalist Cupboard, Shock of the New, Wilderness Rocks routes?



AndiT

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#38 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 07:39:23 am
Thanks Tom. I'd be interested to know his opinion of the grade now that the side runner has been eliminated and also the 'path' he chose, there seems to be two ways: a kind of right hand way with a mantle and a direct way into the groove with some pretty insecure moves.

Would it be possible to see the footage?

Cheers, Andi.

GCW

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#39 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 08:06:37 am
Anyone ever repeat Gaz Parry's E7 at Cow's Mouth Quarry?  Boldness through Ignorance or something similar.

nik at work

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#40 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 08:21:25 am
I'm fairly confident that cows mouth quarry route has been repeated. Just can't quite think who by right now. But then again I might be wrong, or chinese whispers might have got the better of me...

andy popp

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#41 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 08:41:15 am
I'm sure Magic in the Air has been soloed. Don't know who, Nick might. Again on sandstone, my own Time Regained (Helsby) is worthwile. On Moors, not only MaDMAn but also Pegg's Possessed (?) maybe.

dave

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#42 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 08:43:22 am
Is Screaming Dream still considered E7, or is a boulder problem nowadays?  Not quite had an onsight though and Ben proved it would be possible.

The Power Of Climbing lists Moon and Myles as repeaters of this, and that was back in 1991 or whatever. also photos of malc taylor on it so he could well have done it after the book. its not a boulder problem.

webbo

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#43 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 08:49:07 am
I'm sure Magic in the Air has been soloed. Don't know who, Nick might. Again on sandstone, my own Time Regained (Helsby) is worthwile. On Moors, not only MaDMAn but also Pegg's Possessed (?) maybe.

apparently tony marr soloed a direct start shortly after the crag was reopened following foot and mouth.must be the only e6 soloed by someone claiming their old age pension.

Nigel

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#44 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 08:51:28 am
Jordan soloed Boldness through Ignorance, which I think Gaz used a peg on. Reckoned E8 as I recall.

grimer

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#45 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 09:42:10 am
Hi Tom did you get my message?

a dense loner

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#46 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 10:06:00 am
possessed has had at least a few repeats, by the enigma and westie amongst others, remember them thinking it was soft. fagus sylvatica was repeated by toby benham, i have a feeling he also did happy hart but could be wrong on this

a dense loner

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#47 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 10:07:01 am
MaDMan is insane

Somebody's Fool

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#48 Re: Unrepeated?
October 08, 2007, 10:19:49 am
Toby did Lonely Heart at Froggatt, don't think he did Happy Hart.

Elsewhere in Staffordshire, has Shining Path on the Fourth Cloud been repeated?


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#49 Re: Unrepeated?
October 09, 2007, 07:28:00 am
Katzs' The Young Pretender has been climbed.  V8.

Nodder did Agua Caliente years back, though it was well rehearsed.  Caff?  Too?

 

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