Unrepeated?

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

I'm sure Magic in the Air has been soloed. Don't know who, Nick might. Again on sandstone, my own Time Regained (Helsby) is worthwile. On Moors, not only MaDMAn but also Pegg's Possessed (?) maybe.
 
GCW said:
Is Screaming Dream still considered E7, or is a boulder problem nowadays? Not quite had an onsight though and Ben proved it would be possible.

The Power Of Climbing lists Moon and Myles as repeaters of this, and that was back in 1991 or whatever. also photos of malc taylor on it so he could well have done it after the book. its not a boulder problem.
 
andy popp said:
I'm sure Magic in the Air has been soloed. Don't know who, Nick might. Again on sandstone, my own Time Regained (Helsby) is worthwile. On Moors, not only MaDMAn but also Pegg's Possessed (?) maybe.

apparently tony marr soloed a direct start shortly after the crag was reopened following foot and mouth.must be the only e6 soloed by someone claiming their old age pension.
 
Jordan soloed Boldness through Ignorance, which I think Gaz used a peg on. Reckoned E8 as I recall.
 
possessed has had at least a few repeats, by the enigma and westie amongst others, remember them thinking it was soft. fagus sylvatica was repeated by toby benham, i have a feeling he also did happy hart but could be wrong on this
 
Toby did Lonely Heart at Froggatt, don't think he did Happy Hart.

Elsewhere in Staffordshire, has Shining Path on the Fourth Cloud been repeated?
 
Katzs' The Young Pretender has been climbed. V8.

Nodder did Agua Caliente years back, though it was well rehearsed. Caff? Too?
 
Grimer mentioned it had been climbed, here, different thread, some time ago. Great line - fucking atrocious name, even by Marks' standards.
 
No. What I heard was what Nik had said, that Tom dG was about to do it when Dan cracked himself on llel Lines. But Tom has seen all this, can't remember what he said.

And years ago before I met Mark, one of the Staffs crew was dissing The Young Pretender by saying Mark hadn't actually climbed it, and I thought, Hmmm, I wonder is that what the name means, whereby Gary was the Old Pretender?
 
One of the Staffs crew is a fool. Can you seriously imagine katz even needing to lie about what he's scratched up?


Glitter?
 
Oh, that's obvious, I know that. And this was absolutely years ago. I can't remember, I think it was Dougie. It wasn't intended to besmirch his reputation, just the funny thought I had whan I thought about his name for the route.
 
I remember walking up for a look at YP after Mark sent me the description with it's big (for the time, and for Mark) numbers.

I hadn't been to that buttress before, and frankly I was a bit underwhelmed by the line, because it was so small and I had imagined when I first read Mark's letter that he had dispatched the arete of the huge slipped buttress up above. (I now realise this will be much harder than E8!!).

But the YP was certainly clean, and chalked, and when I tried (failed) to pull on, it was also quite obviously nails.

I had, and have, no reason whatsoever to doubt that Mark did this.

Neil
 
oh dear. I just want to point out that in no way was I trying to suggest he hadn't. I think, as Neil mentions, there was confusion over which overhanging arete it was. My post was probably ill-considered as it could be seen like that, and I apologise if that's how it came across. The point of the post was my amusement at the name and reading too much into it.
 
Oh dear, what a pickle.

Houdini said:
One of the Staffs crew is a fool. Can you seriously imagine katz even needing to lie about what he's scratched up?

Houdini said:
Katzs' The Young Pretender has been climbed. V8.

An unrepeated E8 downgraded to V8? That's a foolish thing to say, when you haven't done it or indeed appear to know anyone who's done it.

There was confusion for a long time over which arete had been climbed. Critchlow, not renowned for his memory, had said that Mark Katz had explained to him that his route was the one on the fallen block, some time later it appeared that the story had changed and the route was indeed on the lower section up a much smaller prow. Indeed if you check the Grit List, to this day the mistaken identity is still outlined. I always doubted the fallen block claim, I have no reason to doubt the real line, although it is desperate, indeed from an ab, I couldn't hold a position on the arete, let alone make movement up it.
 
Yeah I'm confused too. It's gone all "Katz hasn't done this or that" which is rubbish. I thought it had been bouldered-out @ V8. If it hasn't - fuck it.
 


Write your reply...

Latest posts

Back
Top