[Somebody's Fool]

As I have been tasked with the Chatsworth section for the next BMC guide (I won't be long now Grimer) I thought I should find a little out about this out of the way classic.

Has anyone here done it?  Or have an idea about the grade?  Ru?  Andy B?  Johnny Brown?  Jim?

After a couple of visits, in summer I hasten to add, I haven't been able to touch it.

From the previous guides (both involving Chris Craggs coincidentally) it has received 7a in the '96 BMC guide and V9 in the Rockfax one.  I'm thinking of going with Chris, and giving it V9 (7a) in accordance with BMC grading policy.  Any objections? 

[dave]

if anyone knows what V9 is then its chris craggs.

have you tried taxing mr moon for a grade?

[Jim]

never heard of it. would be keen to come and try it. Where is it?

[butters]

Did the Severe to the right of it a couple of years ago but that is a close as I ever got to Desperot!  The one thing I seem to remember apart from being bitten to hell by midges is that there is a substantial slope to fall down if you came off it though the assorted ferns and silver birch would slow your progress somewhat if not stop you completely.

bluebrad

[Andy B]

Sorry, it's new to me too, but I'm also keen for a look now. I pressume the midges will still be bad there at the moment though.

[GCW]

This is the Direct Start to Despot, isn't it.  Brief mention in the Chatsworth guide at E4 7a?
Has it ever had a repeat after Moon did it 15+ years ago?
And did Moon even name it himself?  I seem to remember it got called "Desperot" as a nick-name.

[Ru]

I've not done it. As someone said the landing is a bit slopey.

[unclesomebody]

It is clean and dry at the moment? Does anyone fancy going to try it this evening?

[Somebody's Fool]

It is clean, and will be dry.  However conditions and midges etc will probably be far from ideal. A few spotters certainly wouldn't go amiss if you go.  I'd be keen but I don't have a car at the moment.  I'll try and persuade the Enigma.

I don't think it's been repeated, although that's not to say it hasn't.  Ben himself can't remember any details, and sounded surprised I'd credited him with the problem.

My theory is that Chris Craggs thought of the name and was so pleased with himself he fabricated an ascent so he could get it in the book.  Any thoughts?

[Nigel]

I have scouted Chatsworth for new problems on two separate occasions, both times I have scrutinized this line intensely with my beady little eyes, although I have never tried it. It looks reet good and has quite a few good holds. However higher up it does look like a case of "strong visual line" (straight up - looks hard and highball) vs. "path of least resistance" (detouring left at half height), so if it has been done then you'd still have to clear up the exact line. Also, there is no way its V9/7c, I thought 7b+ max, easy 7b if you go off left.

[butters]

Copied from http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11367

Desperot

6m. The direct start to Despot is well named. In the unlikely event of being successful, escape rightwards from the break. The problem was unnamed, though Desperot has become the norm. In recent years it sees to have dropped off the bouldering hit list and the grade is something of a guess. © ROCKFAX

bluebrad

[Pantontino]

I can remember an extended editorial in High magazine where the editor, Geoff Birtles took Ben Moon along to climb this line. Geoff had tried it and failed (I think?) and found the supposed 6b grade hard to fathom. Ben did it in fine style and suggested 7a. There were some pics published with the piece - I'm sure you could track these down; would be a cool aside to slot in the guide.

[Somebody's Fool]

So it's definitely harder than topping out Right Unconquerable.  I'll try and follow that up.  Cheers.

Nige, when you say the direct finish, do you mean going straight from the big slopey sidepull to the break?

[Johnny Brown]

I can remember an extended editorial in High magazine where the editor, Geoff Birtles took Ben Moon along to climb this line. Geoff had tried it and failed (I think?) and found the supposed 6b grade hard to fathom. Ben did it in fine style and suggested 7a.

Yes, remember it well. I've got a copy somewhere, though it isn't remotely handy. Having heard about this thread on the sheffield garpevine, I assumed it was about jOhnnY's thing right of the start to sentinel crack. Now there's a problem for uncle to repeat.

[Jim]

uncle was talking about campusing blind fig earlier

[Jacqusie]

Ben's forgot he did the direct to Despot? - You don't forget a day out with Geoff!

For the record:

In the Derwent Grit Guide (1985) Despot got "Can be started Direct at 6b"

Geoff decided to see if this was right & took Ben & the High editoriatal at the time had the caption "go on ben its a jug" as the strap to bens solo of the move. Its a hard move - but maybe 6c?

The 1996 guide gave it 7a - and the Craggs dubbed it "Desperot".



hmmmmmmm


si

[Johnny Brown]

Sorted this out today. Old-school 6b seems fair. Prob 7a in new money? (ie french, font to be precise)



The landing is fine, not slopey death at all.
I guess the grade confusion is due to it being a bit of a dyno; as Ben says "they're funny aren't they?"

Also, there is no way its V9/7c, I thought 7b+ max, easy 7b if you go off left.

Full marks to 'beady eyes' there. Its actually harder to go left, but it does indeed merit easy 7b. When will this oracle give us the secrets of his wisdom, in handy book form?

[GCW]

Well done!  Font 7a ain't quite Brit 7a, is it?  Looks good though.

[dobbin]

I've only ever been to chatsworth edge once, and that was with johnny dawes. I was queuing to get in the foundry and he burst in and demanded to know what I was doing going indoors on a day like this (it was foggy and raining), and insisted I join him on a mission. I of course couldn't believe my luck - one of my heroes trying to take me out climbing, I wasn't going to refuse. I hadn't realised that acceptance meant I would be shuttled to the peak in the back of a shit heap car at what felt like light speed, only to spend hours on belay duty.

[saltbeef]

did he cosy up to you in the aforementioned automobile?

[Jim]

Check out the guns on Somebody's Fool!

Nige spotting but who's climbing? Tetler?

[Falling Down]

Who's is the dog? It's cute.  My German Shepard is getting too old (12) to take out climbing and I miss having her around when bouldering...

[andy_e]

Is that the dog that got diahorrea (sp)? Or was that someone elses?

[Somebody's Fool]

Falling Down. The dog belongs to my girlfriend and goes by the name of Marlow.  You're in a tiny minority of people who have a good word to say about him.

Jim.  It is indeed Tetler.  I'm surprised you spotted him, you must have only met the guy a couple of times.  As for my arms, it's down to borrowing Nige's tight clothing.  His secret is out.

[cowboyhat]

That photo is perfect for a 'spot the difference' competition.