[Jim]

after JB fell off it twice, I stepped in for the flash, and glory.  It turned out to be a nice V1 (5c).

Thats fucking dynamite

[Jacqusie]

I wouldn't recommend a visit. The whole crag offers two moves harder than 5c

Its good for a punt for the punters tho JB. Don't do the place down until its been guideward and remeber a dog died in finding that crag!!

 

Well done on the mopping up chaps - it was wet last time we went to do that wall and it must be ard if JB fell off it twice (boots or no)

Don't think the trav has been done & the creaking nature of that boss of rock adds to the fun I spose!!

si

[Johnny Brown]

Can I repeat, I slipped off due to muddy trainers first then dry skin on lichen second. At no point was I struggling with the technicalities. Had I got out my boots and chalk sledgehammer like The Fool I think there might have been a different outcome to this particular walnut. It was sufficiently easy that I doubt Si's was the first ascent.

Sorry Si, I was a punter too once and I would have been sorely disappointed had a guide led me to this crag. It is of interest only to the mid-grade boulderer with a yen for esoterica but stuck in Beeley without transport.

[Jacqusie]

 It is of interest only to the mid-grade boulderer with a yen for esoterica but stuck in Beeley without transport.

...whats the saying? "Publish it and they will come..."

 

...maybe they will JB, maybe they will... (its bastard better than White Edge anyhoo!!)

Whats the score with Dobbs BTW - any advances on the 2nd & 3rd bays for owt?

si

[Johnny Brown]

As Grimer said elsewhere, don't describe stuff and folk will be pleasantly surprised when they stumble on it. Put it in a guide and they'll turn up with expecting something and be sorely disappointed. I think its worth encouraging the former with a mention of location and access but no route descriptions.

But then I wouldn't have put White edge in either...

Not been back to Dob.

[Jacqusie]

The Reuben has the gig now on Beeley aka The Wabbit Warren - so see how the lankman goes with it...

Its got its charm and I'm sure that those people residing in Yeovill or Milton Keynes would die for such a craglett!

 

Si

[Fj]

I also did a good lip traverse.  It takes the overhanging lip to the left of the climber in this photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/1990793812/

Without using the block behind his feet, it felt about 7b.  Assuming it's not been done before, I propose the name Hot Tub.  Care should be taken as the apex of the prow is prone to flexing when weighted.  Might be worth one of Bonjoy's (!)s.

I think we did this in 2003/04, after seeing the crag mentioned in a mag. Was about the only decent thing on the crag, but didnt feel like was 7b although the holds were very fragile so may be smaller now.

[dave]

Went to chitsworth last night, can recomend Desperot, it is a great problem with a comitting dive for the break so you'll want a couple of mats and a spotter. Although I'd warm up elswhere since this problem is probably the only thing worth doing there, and certainly the only thing clean. luckily its not too fingery.

Looking out from the pinnacle, there’s a small quarried bay down and left.  Here lies an obvious tall arête bounding a gully/chimney, again well worth a star and V2ish.  It’s obviously been done before as some serious digging had occurred to facilitate topping out.

There is also a fingery traverse line across the buttress, about V4 and a strong natural line.  We started sitting on the arête and went rightwards.  This may well have been done before as well.  Anyone know anything of these?

The centre of the wall, christened Dobbin’s Blog assuming it’s new, is brilliant.  E4 6c or V7/8 with a mean rockover to gain a distant ‘micro-hyphen.’ Johnny Brown nipped in for the first ascent. 

We had a look at this V8 wall which looks good though not entirely obvious at first when not chalked, the small hold is indeed very small, not great if you value your skin. the rockover to it ain't very far at all but moving off it is the crux, although scouse looked close to flashing it. At first we thought it was a bit close to the juggy ledges on the right, but once you're on it they're not in the equation.

I would say the most obvious line on this wall is the thing which is about E1 5cish 2m right of the arete, i.e. between the arete and the aforementioned V8. Plesant positive crimping etc. topping out on the arete probably best unless you're alan titchmarsh.

[Johnny Brown]

What a relief. I thought your 'middle of the wall' must not have been.

[dave]

our thing is the middle of the brown clean tall obvious bit, yours is the middle if you're also counting the green mucky ledged bit sloping away on the right. i'm surprised the thing we did doesn't seem to be in the existing 96 guide though cos its blindingly obvious and not hard.

[dave]

update: this might be useful info to someone - on saturday when seemingly all the eastern grit was drenched we went to chatsworth and found not only desperot but also dobbin's blog to be dry.

[Johnny Brown]

Good arrows. I believe the the Dobbin's blog integrale awaits an ascent.

[dave]

Dobbin's blog[i integrale [/i]

help a brother out here If you mean traversing in then it'll have a wait a bit longer cos the line of the HVS up the middle was drenched with runoff.

[Johnny Brown]

No, I mean the man who did the sit balked at the top out.