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Burbage S boulders (Read 1899 times)

Andy Harris

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Burbage S boulders
July 30, 2007, 11:41:30 am
On what seemed to be our 1st day on Grit in a decade a team headed out to Burbage S boulders for the solace of a bit of shade and wind. We were rewarded with a great day out and no midges.

I managed to do The Pig which I’d heard of but not seen before. A great little problem but we were a little puzzled by the start. Started RH-3 finger pocket, LH-2 finger edge below this, throw to slopey edge with LH, slap to mono with RH, heel hook out left and slap to slopes. A brilliant little sequence and quite firey. Is it 7c or 7b+? There were some low undercuts down and left but this seemed improbable.

Has anyone done Talk to me Martin? This always got 7b in old guide then all sorts of big foot pebbles started to fall off. Tricky 1st move to poor sloper then awkward flick to small edge with right. Feels more like 7c to me?

Ru

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#1 Re: Burbage S boulders
July 30, 2007, 11:57:07 am
I've done both of these. Little Pig starts as you say, the undercuts are bogus. I thought 7c.

Talk to me Martin feels ok when it's cold and your skin doesn't roll, I thought 7b+, but could be 7c.

nic mullin

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#2 Re: Burbage S boulders
July 30, 2007, 12:43:21 pm

RE: Talk to me Martin - the (anciently chipped) right hand crimp that you start from has had bits fall off it since the guide came out. This used to be sharp and positive across its whole width, but now the index finger side of it is a bit more slopey. Don't know if this affects the grade, only that I did it once when the edge was still sharp and can't do it now, though that could just be me being fat and weak.

Also, I don't recall using any pebbles for feet, I went from RH crimp and LH slopey/crozzly crystal thumb catch thing up to slopey dishy thing with my left with left foot in big, low pocket. Then right foot into higher big pocket on the right (blind) and right hand onto gash sloper just above the dishy thing (crux) and go again with right to finish. This sequence could be wack, as I've never seen anyone else on this problem.

Dunno about the grade, only done a handful of other 7b+'s and no 7c's so don't really have a frame of reference.

Andy Harris

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#3 Re: Burbage S boulders
July 30, 2007, 01:48:45 pm
cheers guys,

glad that the pig goes from there as it's the obvious way and great moves if only 7 foot high.

think one of the probs with talk to me martin is that all the slopey stuff is covered in lichen and would be impossible to hang so maybe i just need to give it a clean and wait for a colder day.

ferret

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#4 Re: Burbage S boulders
July 30, 2007, 09:59:03 pm
it goes from the undercut RH and an improbable sloper LH from a proper sit, RL footlock in offwidth to the left. pull on and go to good slopey edge LH, RH out to 2 finger pocket, release footlock ( cruxy for me ) RH mono, LH top.
Felt 7c for me with this sequence, dont know if this is the approved sequence but climbs very well in a kinda font stylee  :)

 

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