[Rice Boy]

Feeling hung-over after being bitten to buggery at Ramshaw last night, wasn’t a knat in site on the sunny (no wind either?) side but down on the crag it was unbearable, the worst I’ve seen it for a w-imberry-hile.

Had a wonder around and a play on a couple of things like . . . .

Night of Lust - I was wondering how all this recent plastic climbing was going to knock my outdoor climbing and was enlightened on this problem. Climbing by numbers, that’s what indoors seems to do, I was going left right left right no style and all brawn. Almost succeeded but ran out of juice after first go  . Anyone have any beta on this? First moves were going fine but after the left hand side pull at head height, going into the grove things went a bit shandy. Brilliant climb though!

California Screaming – would like to know how the moves went, fridge hugging all the way? Didn’t touch it but looked ace.

[dave]

i think i got the big obvious "left hand" sidepull with the other hand via some big crossover,  the head left from there. sorry i don't remember much detail, i just remember doing a few big wronghanded crossovers at the start to be not wronghanded for the end bit.

[Rice Boy]

Thanks. Felt like through some cunning and guile wouldn't need any cross overs. The way I was trying was going again and again and again with my left hand to a small positive crimp (stretched even for 6.2) whilst working up a right heel hook onto the slopey boss near start. This ended up with me guppying the 'left hand' side pull with my right, left pressing like a cider farmer on the left crimp and failing-flailing to get the next side pull in the grove.

Difficult one to explain.

[Andy B]

My memory is even hazier than Daves, but his crossover numbers at the start sound right. Also try to get high to do the top move fairly static, rather than slapping cos I don't think the finishing hold is much of a jug. I think a couple of grades could be taken off Runnel Entry (just to the right) and added onto this problem instead. I would say it's at least 7a.

[Rice Boy]

I think a couple of grades could be taken off Runnel Entry (just to the right) and added onto this problem instead. I would say it's at least 7a.

True, moves are much more straight-forward on Runnel Entry. How's the 7b finger rail climb didn't look too bad from the floor.

[Andy B]

If your 6'2" the left hand start won't be too bad. Just miss out the snapped looking part of the crimp seem with a big span, then the crux will be holding a liitle swing as you let go of the crimp seem (either with your left hand or heel), and come into the sidepulls of the original.

[Rice Boy]

Considering they're missing topouts those few climbs are excellent. Thanks for the info, will head back next week in a one piece to give them a go.

[mini]

Don't think your far wrong with how your doing it. You end up with opposing crimps / layways before going up with the right onto the crimp up in the vague groove.

I remember a long time ago doing this with a weird cross through / egyptian move, but never been able to do it that way since.

Know what ya mean about the local knats - got bitten off from Newstones, who then managed to fly over Baldstones to continue their feed at Gibb Tor. Bleedin blighters!