[nash1]

Here's a question...but first a bit of background.

I work 3 weeks on/off. When off I am in Paris (there is a bit of bouldering quite close-by actually, which I partake in... )
When on, I only have access to a regular gym.
I have now put up a fingerboard and a 3 rung campus set up in the gym here. I am doing a routine now which seems to be ok. I put it together using all the articles I found on't web. I goes like this... (after 20 min warm-up)

3 sets of 4 fingertip pull-ups
2 sets of 6 fingertip pull-ups
1 set of 8 fingertip pull-ups

3 reps of an 8 move problem on the fingerboard (I can just manage 9 moves on the first go, the last two goes are less than 8 moves)

Deadhanging. Here I do 2 handed x 5 reps on the minute, I have a hold which I can hang for about 8 secs on the first go and less on the other goes.
I also have a pulley/weight thing attatched to the campus, and I sling 7kg on this, put my foot through the handle and do a double armed hang, then drop one off, touch me arse and back up, then the other hand off and so on. So far I have managed to take each hand off 4 times before dropping off, feels like very good finger training. 3 reps, 2 mins rest between 'em.

I then do undercling reps with rockrings on the multigym machine, 90kg, 3x8 reps which is prolly about 90% effort, but I have no more weights.

Finish off with 2x3 reps weighted pull-ups at full max.

Warm down is triceps work (press-ups) and bench press (light weights) and 20 mins in the pool.

3 times a week.

When I write it down it sounds like a lot, but I always feel like I should do more finger work, and struggle to adhere to the 'quit before you get knackered' philososphy.

The biggest problem is blisters from the campus and fingerboard holds, I look like a drummer I have so much tape on, but I did get 3 blisters 2nd time round this trip, so I have to tape...


Now for the question...

Is this gonna be too much over a longer period? I have said to myself I will not increase the intensity until I complete all the reps of all the excercises. This is the 2nd rotation I am doing it and have noticed gains for sure. But will I be buggered up when it gets crispy this autumn?

I know you shouldn't do endless fingerboard training, but I am thinking 3 weeks on 3 weeks off may be ok.
Any suggestions??

[Paul B]

I think with this kind of thing its very difficult to tell what is "too much", everyone's body reacts differently to training ,I think the main thing is to listen to your body and be very very careful, if your fingers feel rubbish at the start of a session consider leaving it or at least making it less intense. It does sound like an awful lot of quite intense excercises.

[(woz)]

Like Paul said, it depends on what you find works for you. If it were me I would say do a bit less, but more often than 3 days per week.
I also would reccomend doing the deadhangs straight after your warm up - as for bouldering (i assume) it is maximum finger strength you want to train the most.
As for the blisters: Are your campus rungs rounded enough? What fingerboard do you use? I campus and use a fingerboard quite a bit and never have any problems with blisters.

[Nibile]

are the pullups max?
i mean, you have to do 4 because of failing to do the 5th?
i mean, do you use weights?
if yes, its quite a hard routine.

seems funny though.