Here's a question...but first a bit of background.
I work 3 weeks on/off. When off I am in Paris (there is a bit of bouldering quite close-by actually, which I partake in...
)
When on, I only have access to a regular gym.
I have now put up a fingerboard and a 3 rung campus set up in the gym here. I am doing a routine now which seems to be ok. I put it together using all the articles I found on't web. I goes like this... (after 20 min warm-up)
3 sets of 4 fingertip pull-ups
2 sets of 6 fingertip pull-ups
1 set of 8 fingertip pull-ups
3 reps of an 8 move problem on the fingerboard (I can just manage 9 moves on the first go, the last two goes are less than 8 moves)
Deadhanging. Here I do 2 handed x 5 reps on the minute, I have a hold which I can hang for about 8 secs on the first go and less on the other goes.
I also have a pulley/weight thing attatched to the campus, and I sling 7kg on this, put my foot through the handle and do a double armed hang, then drop one off, touch me arse and back up, then the other hand off and so on. So far I have managed to take each hand off 4 times before dropping off, feels like very good finger training. 3 reps, 2 mins rest between 'em.
I then do undercling reps with rockrings on the multigym machine, 90kg, 3x8 reps which is prolly about 90% effort, but I have no more weights.
Finish off with 2x3 reps weighted pull-ups at full max.
Warm down is triceps work (press-ups) and bench press (light weights) and 20 mins in the pool.
3 times a week.
When I write it down it sounds like a lot, but I always feel like I should do more finger work, and struggle to adhere to the 'quit before you get knackered' philososphy.
The biggest problem is blisters from the campus and fingerboard holds, I look like a drummer I have so much tape on, but I did get 3 blisters 2nd time round this trip, so I have to tape...
Now for the question...
Is this gonna be too much over a longer period? I have said to myself I will not increase the intensity until I complete all the reps of all the excercises. This is the 2nd rotation I am doing it and have noticed gains for sure. But will I be buggered up when it gets crispy this autumn?
I know you shouldn't do endless fingerboard training, but I am thinking 3 weeks on 3 weeks off may be ok.
Any suggestions??