New problem at the Tube from (woz) looks good!
We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps, We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.
For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.
Quote from: Andy B on July 27, 2007, 11:23:57 pmWe reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps, We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.Quote from: Andy B on April 28, 2008, 06:00:20 pmFor those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go. Had a great session on these on Sunday. Did the two ups, think the consensus in our group was that both were 7b. Did one of the extensions into ROD, following the low line of pockets (seemed like the most obvious line). Good moves. Also did this line into FRA, which seemed a little less pumpy, but still the same grade. 7b+ seems fair for both.Also did a fun dyno. Another nice bit of movement to add to the entertainment on this wall. 7a+ - Jump the Dead Donkey - From the good holds in the centre, bounce for the top of FRA.This really is a great mini-crag. Here's a clip of Andy S on Red or Dead:
Glad you enjoyed them Robin. I've already done various eliminates on here including FRA as a dyno, which is how i originally did it, and a line straight up the centre using the pockets (which can be used as intermediates on the natural lines), but I think that eliminates on here are better left as things for
I haven't done The right hand start into FRA, but i'd be surprised if it was 7B+, as since Ray worked out you can rock over the last move, rather than jumping, the first dyno is the crux, which you would miss out on the right hand start. Meaning once you get to the good crimps you have comparitively easier climbing left than on Red or Dead. If that makes sense? I'll probably try this tomorrow.
The highest version of the right hand start into Red or Dead is worth doing as it doesn't share any moves with Red or Dead, but flows very nicely, with some good crimpy locks.
Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?
Quote from: Andy B on June 08, 2008, 11:17:34 pmHave been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?Did you go from the low break, to the big slopey ledge (via the small crimps), and then up - or directly up to the twin pockets?I did the first one, and then climbed straight up. Don't know which problem (FRA/ROD) I finished up. I just climb like a free spirit, man. Hurry up with the topo Robin.
2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)4a. 7b+ - FRA sitstart. From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)
Quote from: r-man on June 11, 2008, 06:07:05 pm2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)4a. 7b+ - FRA sitstart. From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)As Free Range Abattoir is already a sit start 4a is is more of a low/ lie down start.(woz), did you drop down to the start of FRA or pull up and left from the slots?