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Peak Lime additions (Read 55371 times)

Kingy

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#175 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 18, 2009, 07:49:21 pm
Oh right, i know the one, it was really polished and black from all the boot rubber. I guess if its gone and the move is still possible and not massively harder then it should be left just like they are not bothering to fix Dreamtime, although I hesitate to mention this in the same sentence as Tumbleweed!

dave

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#176 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 18, 2009, 08:00:45 pm
there's loads of ways to do that bit of the roof thing, many of which don't use that foothold at all. I suggest leaving it.

r-man

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#177 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 20, 2009, 12:07:17 am
Some limestone esoterica... A few months ago Dawid and I climbed a 15 move roof line in Odin Cave near Castleton. It crosses a completely horizontal groove, with all manner of unlikely techniques and bizarre moves: underclinging grit like slopers, a desperate toehook lunge, a drop-down on a backhand pocket... I had so much fun climbing this! We've been keeping it quiet for ages in the hope that we'd get round to finishing off some of the other lines, but it hasn't happened, so might as well share...

The Dark Room, 8A
Sitstart at the left end of the obvious groove at the back of the cave. Follow this rightwards to finish matched on the jug. You could top out up the slimey chimney if you wanted.

There's also a 7A+ that climbs into the same jug from an obvious sitter at the back. If you are making a visit, probably best to wait for a dry spell. A tarp is always useful to cover the wet bit on the floor. To reach the cave, drive to Winnat's pass and turn right just before the pass. The cave is at the end of the road, on the left.

http://www.deadpointmag.com/dpm-hd/72-dark-room-v11-peak-district-uk

Video was shot at night - you can climb without headtorches during daytime.


Johnny Brown

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#178 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 20, 2009, 08:16:02 am
Quote
drive to Winnat's pass and turn right don't turn left just before the pass

Props on checking out unlikely spots. Been here a few times but never thought of climbing.

The Sausage

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#179 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 20, 2009, 08:29:19 pm
Looks well good that. Shall have to get me-sen down there next summer.
Nice one.

Andy B

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#180 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 20, 2009, 10:18:08 pm
I've just done a sex wee.

slackline

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#181 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 21, 2009, 12:37:09 am
Yeah, that looks well cool, good effort.

El Mocho

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#182 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 23, 2009, 06:40:20 pm
Went and did The Dark Room this morning and the moves are indeed very fun.

As of this morning it was completely dry on the problem and as we have had about 17 consecutive weeks of rain then I am guessing it stays dry a lot of the time. It was quite dark in there (cloudy day) and for me it was a bit easier wearing a head tourch (once I had it tight enough so it didn't fall off mid problem)

Being a bit of a stump I couldn't get the kneebar for the move to the backhand pocket (crux section at the end) so I ended up spining round the other way (with feet towards the back of the cave) but I don't think this will have made much difference to the grade.

The other lines looked a fair bit harder!

(don't get too excited though, at the moment it is a little dank and dark in there - the rain pooring down at the lip of the cave makes it feel like being behind a waterfall, and the only way I could keep Klem in the cave was to tie him up, he prefered sulking in the rain outside and attacking any passing tourists.)

r-man

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#183 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 23, 2009, 09:32:23 pm
Went and did The Dark Room this morning and the moves are indeed very fun.
Great! Pleased you enjoyed.

Quote
As of this morning it was completely dry on the problem and as we have had about 17 consecutive weeks of rain then I am guessing it stays dry a lot of the time.
That's good to know - I haven't been recently, so wasn't sure how it would fare in winter weather. It can suffer from condensation on humid days though.

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The other lines looked a fair bit harder!
Much!

Adam Lincoln

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#184 Re: Peak Lime additions
November 25, 2009, 11:01:45 pm
Couple more ascents for tumbleweed today, El Mocho and John Cooke. Didn't see how Ben did it, but John didn't use the nasty footlock which rags your knee. (Strong!)

 

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