[slackline]

Ah, my mistake, I thought you were trying to put your leg into the heel/toe. 

[r-man]

nice one - i tried that Shades Of Grey a couple of years ago but thought i was going to snap my leg in the heeltoe.

Dave and I have different methods for the top section, but we both take the heel/toe out after doing the bottom bit. Heel/toes are scary.

[dave]

i'm guessing you're doing something like getting the flat RH hold thing then slapping big over up and left to that big flatty on chimes etc?

[r-man]

Yup. Dave just slaps away (though he uses a pinch to the left rather than the flatty). I get a heel on the hold to the right of the flatty. There's an intermediate slopey crimp you can hit before making the final blind slap to the jug.

[Kingy]

Also, I linked the cave problem ss into Basher's problem, via Perverse Reverse. Has anyone done this before? It's a brilliant set of moves, especially as it turns out you can do Basher's without the nasty crimp. If no-one's done this before, I think it deserves a name - Tumbleweed, 7c+.

I did Tumbleweed on sun and reckon it is 8a, as did the second ascentionist. Its a lot harder than Ben's Roof and although there are no desparate moves, there are a lot of 'ard ones! Nice and dry at the moment, get it while you can!

[r-man]

Nice one! As I'm sure you gathered yesterday, I was made up that people were trying it. I called it Tumbleweed partly because I thought no one else would be interested.

reckon it is 8a, as did the second ascentionist.

 

[dave]

I was made up that people were trying it. I called it Tumbleweed partly because I thought no one else would be interested.

I'd be keen for this, its something I'd eyed up in previous years but never tried cos I always had something else on the burn. I went towards the end of the summer but some holds were wet every time. Probably have to wait till next year now.

[Kingy]

More (possibly) new stuff at the Tor. Dave climbed a direct finish to the cave problem – sitstart as for that, then instead of heading to the Weedkiller jug, finish straight up at a jug next to the bolt - Shades of Grey, 7c+.

I linked Weedkiller into the finish of this – Wee Dimension, 7b+

I did the 2nd ascent of Shades of Grey today, I reckon its 7c although I have got the Cave Problem wired. its a good problem and independant of Chimes once you are on the holds.

I didn't manage to do Wee Dimension though, maybe that is the same grade, its certainly a lot more endurancy - feels a bit of a sandbag at 7b+!

[r-man]

Nice one. I thought SoG would be 7c with the heel beta. Dave did it with a huge throw, definitely much harder than using the heel.

Wee Dimension grade was a complete guess - I've got Weedkiller so wired, it felt ok to me. I don't think it's as hard as Killerweed though.

[Kingy]

I did Wee Dimension yesterday, I reckon 7b+, a nice pumpy link - just a touch easier than Shades of Grey although its longer.

[dawid]

As for Tor, anyone has tried Hook yet ?

[Kingy]

I tried it last week briefly with another Tor regular, it seems like a cool problem, hard though! You really have to bone down on the first sharp crimp for the RH. A tiny piece of the crimp broke under my first finger when I was pulling on it but I don't think this affects the problem at all. I touched the high crimp for the LH but not with enough power to hold it. Look forward to trying it again soon.

[dobbin]

A tiny piece of the crimp broke under my first finger when I was pulling on it

You fat bastard Ted!

[Kingy]

Maybe I should stick to the established lines!

Hook is a cool problem, you do need at least 4 pads tho as the landing is a bit sloping. Makes a change from Ben's Roof anyhow!

[dave]

someone remind me what the fuck hook is.

[slackline]

someone remind me what the fuck hook is.

[img]http://revivingrights.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/captain-hook-disney1.jpg[/url]

The baddie from Peter Pan 

[Kingy]

Its the crimps going up above the flat hold on the lip of Keen Roof

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Yo,
is there a definitive list for RavenTor problems? Got Ru's guide but guessing there is a lot more Local knowledge, on the eliminates/ rules etc.


Cheers
Tim

[r-man]

Here's a pic of Dave on Hook




Tim - your best bet is to corner a local at the crag.

[slackline]

someone remind me what the fuck hook is.

The baddie from Peter Pan 

Damn my typing and lack of attention 

[dave]

i was thinking more dustin hoffman.

[slackline]

i was thinking more dustin hoffman.

  Was going to go with one of Hoffman, but all those on the first page of Google Images were a bit wank so went with the more traditional cartoon image.

[abarro81]

Broke a foothold on the cave problem/tumbleweed etc today - the little one in the roof that you can use to put the heel on the jug. There's still a small edge there, just a bit worse, and the move is the same just a little harder.. I've still got the hold (in 2 pieces) if anyone wants to stick it back on, not that I think it'd really be worth it.

[Kingy]

Is the broken foothold the sharp little spike that looked quite fragile that is below your hands when they are in the starting slot/jug of the standup start? If so, probably not worth gluing it although please hang onto the piece and i will inspect it when I am next down.

[abarro81]

Don't think it's the one you're talking about if I've understood right.. It's the one Robin uses here to switch from toe on the Weedkiller jug to heel-toe:
Clearly too many flapjacks for me...