[r-man]

In recent weeks I've been playing on various bits of esoteric limestone with Polish Dave. Here are a couple of the best problems we've done. And they are both very good indeed.

Vinsensoz - 7a+ / Zosnesniv - 7b

Park under Sean's Roof. Directly opposite is an attractive wall, which would have some excellent highballs if it weren't for the dodgy landing. However, the traverse is really enjoyable - slightly overhanging, pumpy, on smooth comfy holds, and with a nice crossover crux. This piece of rock seems to stay as dry as the Tor, and though there are sometimes wet patches, the traverse holds generally remain dry.

Vinsensoz is the left to right version. Sitstart left of the corner on obvious holds and work rightwards. Finish at the slanting jug on the far right, slightly higher than the traverse line.

Zosnesniv is the harder (and even better) right to left version - start on the right arete and traverse left to finish dropping down on the start holds of Vinsensoz.





_________


Hall of the Mountain King - 7a+

This marvelous problem resides in the roadside cave down and left of Beginner's wall. Park as for Beginner's Wall and walk down the road. Though at first glance it may appear too small, the opening of the cave yields a fantastic roof problem.

Start on the left wall at a mono and jug. Easy moves lead to jugs in the roof, then big undercuts. Next follows a perfect handjam and double toe-hooks, a reach to crimps, then a slap to a jug up and left, with another tricky move holding the swing (toe-hook) to match, and then slap the final jug. Brilliant.

Unfortunately this cave will be soaking after all the rain, but it's well worth seeking out after a dry spell. Also fun exploring the cave, which turns into a low-ceilinged tunnel that you can wander along. Never got to the end of this. Problem name was inspired by the tale of a tramp who used to live in this cave. Any limestone vets remember him?

[dave]

you guys and percy should have a crap-problem-name battle.

[r-man]

Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man.

[Andy Harris]

Afraid the traverses opposite Sean's roof were done by Jerry yonks ago as his warm up for Seans Roof. You're right though a nice quality piece of rock.

[r-man]

Fair enough.

[dobbin]

I could do with being able to take a jumper off mid sequence - could you share the knowledge? 

[r-man]

Just you wait. I'll get a video...

[Doylo]

does Dave know he's being stalked?

[Falling Down]

does Dave know he's being stalked?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7602.0.html 

[dave]

maybe r-man actually is polish dave. a bit like tony simpson and tony simpson.

[a dense loner]

you guys and percy should have a crap-problem-name battle.

how come you put "name" in there

[Ru]

Park under Sean's Roof. Directly opposite is an attractive wall, which would have some excellent highballs if it weren't for the dodgy landing.

We used to call them solos. I've done a couple of lines on here, I wouldn't be suprised if someone like Paul Mitchell has done some too (there's definitely a line of his through Sean's Roof).

[chappers]

does Dave know he's being stalked?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7602.0.html 

there was even a poem.

[Tommy]

Thanks for the pics and bits r-man. Always nice to read something new about little esoteric things, even if they might have been done before. 

[r-man]

Cheers. That's what this site is for - sharing the love. 

[Andy B]

While searching for dry rock Scouse and myself came accross a couple of good problems in Blackwell Dale today. They are about 20 metres left of the roadside traverses, opposite Sean's Roof, above a very low cave entrance, and like the traverses are on very good, compact rock.

The best of the two is a sit start from a sloping ledge, up and right to slots then straight up on small crimps to the obvious break.

The other is a standing start immediately to the left, using good comfortable crimps, (and the starting ledge of the other problem for your feet) to reach a crozzley kudos style crimp, then a slopey pocket, and finish with a jump to the break.

Not too sure about grades because they were both a bit damp, and required repeated wiping, chalking and brushing, but I would guess at 7b/7b+ and 7a+ respectively.

[r-man]

Good stuff! Keen check these out - we played on this wall briefly, but the slopey ledge was wet so we didn't do anything using that. We tried a sitter just to the right, but it ended up being a little eliminate. Your problems sound good though - the rock is all very nice this in area.

[Andy B]

Good stuff! Keen check these out - we played on this wall briefly, but the slopey ledge was wet so we didn't do anything using that. We tried a sitter just to the right, but it ended up being a little eliminate. Your problems sound good though - the rock is all very nice this in area.

Yeah the ledge was pretty damp yesterday, which made it precarious to hang. One of those holds where you can see your handprint when you let go. We saw the cleaned slot to the right of the slots on this problem, but like you say it seemed like just one pull to the broken ground on the right, or a tight eliminate. the rock on these problems and your traverse is some of the most compact and good quality limestone I've seen in the peak. I think the left hand problem is your sort of bouncy thing. We went to check out your roof in the cave as well but it was very wet in there.

It's nice to have names:

the 7a+: Free Range Abattoir      (in honour of Stone, via Dave)

the 7b/7b+ Red or Dead      (in your face dave and cofe)

[cofe]

the 7b/7b+ Red or Dead      (in your face dave and cofe)

eat my shorts.

[Andy B]

Went back again tonight, and they were certainly a bit easier in the dry, but still good.
We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps, and makes for a more complete problem: 7a+/ 7b (unless you can miss out the crux jump at the end like Man Mountain Shaq Parry  ).
We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.

[dave]

I would like to ass that these problems are very good, the right hand one is my favourite because of the comfy rock. Theres a good evening out to be had in blackwell dale at 7a+/b - both these new things, the jerry traverse in either direction (7a/+?), swing time and man of steel at beginners, and theres a few more things tucked away too, like a bonza 7a+ highball wall. good venues.

[Andy B]

For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.

[Stubbs]

New problem at the Tube from (woz)  looks good! 

[moose]

Exactly where is Beginner's Wall? Last time I went to Raven Torr I think I managed to find the traverses opposite the big cave / layby (Sean's Roof?).  Is Beginner's Wall closer to the A6 end of the B6049 than these or is it back towards the Angler's Rest / Raven Tor?  Which side of the road is the crag on it on and how far from the relevant layby? 

Any advice / help / beta much appreciated.  Sorry for the probably unnecessary questions but ft7ish limestone sounds like my kind of thing (and I despair of Weedkiller ever being dry - I'd swear someone gives it a soaking everytime I venture south of Doncaster)

[(woz)]

Its the layby about 200m downhill from seans roof (on the same side of the road) You can see it above you when you are parked in the layby.