[travs]

I'm guessing from this that you're pretty tall then Andy? There's no way I could leave my left foot in the break, you should try my footless move. Also on advanced training I don't think I could use your sequence as I can only just reach the slot with my left hand, I am at full stretch, just how tall are you?

[Andy B]

I was talking about the break by your hand, near the lip of the roof.

5'10" with a 5'8" span (-2" ape index).

On A T it's a shorter or at least similar reach cos you go to the bottom of the slot rather than the crimp above.

[travs]

Fair enough Andy, I'll have a look at your new sequence on AT, still 7c+ or easier / harder? Also you're pretty brave putting your foot up high on the roof problem as those holds in the roof are pretty explosive! Do I know you, do you climb at the Works?

[Andy B]

I'm not so hot on grades (unless I'm refuting one of Johnny Brown's ludicrous claims), but I'd say it was harder than Neil's Wall SS but easier than Recreational Violence LH.

I only go to the works very occasionally, usually during prolonged rainy spells in the winter, but I don't think we've met.

I can tell you that you have made dave's day by saying I must be tall. He's astounded by how much deeper I can lock off than him, so thinks I must be secretly tall in some way, when actually he's just incredibly weak.

[travs]

 

Well Dave will just have to train a bit harder I guess.

[dave]

I like to think what i lack in strength i make up for in reach. Works for me.

[n_man]

I was at beginners wall last night and met n-man. He told me about a 7a problem through a roof in a small bay up near Sean's roof. Basically walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. Start at the back on the obvious large hold and follow hand holds straight out in the crack to a really hard footless move to get round the lip with feet circling round right on the wall of the roof as far as the footless move. It's no way 7a it's more like 7b+/7c so I don't know if holds have come off, I know I pulled off a nice sharp 3 finger hold near the lip which made things a grade harder. Anybody know anything about this problem name grade etc? It's actually quite a good problem and just about worth the bash through the nettles.

Are my posts invisible to you travs? 

Looked at your 7a prob in roof near Seans Sunday. Appeared two good holds on lip. Showed Travs on Tues. One good hold gone, he pulled the other off (fat bas***d) and then proceeded to campus through the roof after two moves. Done several 7c's recently couldn't touch it.

Awesome effort finding the roof as it a proper nettle bash even after trail blazers have gone through.

[Jaspersharpe]

Are the Neil's Wall problems likely to be dry or at least dryable today after the showers of the past few days? Not been before but was thinking of having a look this pm as the forecast is for it to be HOT. Also, are the landings ok as I've yet to purchase a new pad so am still only protected by lagers' ancient S7 pancake? 

[dave]

i would have thought they'd be Ok - you could get some seepage in isolated spots but you can generally climb around it there. neil's wall itself will probably be the last thing to seep anyway, which is good cos its the main event really.

[Bonjoy]

Looking at the rainguage on www.buxtonweather.co.uk it seems that Sheffield has been getting more rain than the limestone side of the peak recently.

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice one, ta. 

[travs]

Landings are perfect Jasper, but if you've only one mat don't push it too far in as the probs are deceptively steep and you come off further back than expected - assuming you fall off of course.

[Jaspersharpe]

Cheers Neil, thought they looked ok from the pics I've seen but you can never be sure. I would imagine that I will certainly be falling off, a lot.

[Andy B]

I did the steep prow that forms the left edge of Sean's Roof today. From a low sit start on the horizontal rail (No cheeky crouching starts) work directly up the prow on crozzley crimps to the slopey break, then use undercuts in the crack to reach over the capping roof to a finishing hold on the edge (dug out) of the grass at the top. Really good moves, and felt comparitively long, but slow drying. I'm not sure of the grade cos I have dodgy fingers at the mo, but maybe in the 7b+/c range?

[dave]

word, effort etc. is this the thing with some obvious cleaned holds (welford proj?) or are we talking to the left of that?

[Andy B]

The prow to the left of the obvious cleaned and wierdly polished incut crimps that are on the left sidewall of the roof.

[r-man]

Blimey, it's actually dry! Good stuff, remember thinking that might be worthwhile.

What's the general state of that cave at the moment? I've looked at bits and pieces in there but it's always been wet in the past.

[Andy B]

Blimey, it's actually dry! Good stuff, remember thinking that might be worthwhile.

What's the general state of that cave at the moment? I've looked at bits and pieces in there but it's always been wet in the past.

Yeah, I've been waiting literally months for it to dry out. Even today there were still a few damp holds, particularly at the start, requiring regular rags, chalk and brushing. The rest of the cave was probably still too wet to do anything else at the moment I would guess, but I'm sure I've seen the right hand side dry before.

[r-man]

Where does it all come from? Seepage or drainage? Just wondering if it might be possible to divert the water somehow. That cave does seem to be eternally soggy, but it must have stayed dry for reasonable periods in the past. Perhaps it will dry out in the next few weeks...

[Andy B]

I think it's just regular seepage. The only way to reduce it would be to dig up the tons of foliage and soil from on top. Sean's Roof has always been very slow to dry and rarely in condition as far as I know. The prow is more compact than the rest of the rock in the cave, and will hopefully dry faster now I've scrubbed some of the limestone gunk off it. I'll probably go back soon and clean it more to try and encourage that.

[r-man]

Sounds like you've put a fair bit of work into tidying and digging. Good work, man! Does the prow have a name? Any photos?

[Andy B]

Didn't dig too much. I just brushed enough soil away to reveal a decent finishing hold. I'll try and think off a decent name tomorrow. I got it on video, but you may have to bear with me for a little while before you see it, cos I'm trying to gather footage for a Blackwell Dale Short.

[cofe]

if anyone's interested, most of the beginner's wall stuff was v dry today, including the often wet holds nr the start of swing time etc.

[Andy B]

I'm also trying the wall just right, inbetween this and Neil's wall. Basically pull on with the shitiest crimps in the world and lurch for the big spike on Swing Time. Do you know of anybody else who might have tried this? I'm getting closer to this but I'm still a few months of being able to do it I think.

Standing start, pull on with the crappy crimps and lurch for the Swing Time spike. I really don't know hard this will be, I can only just pull on at the moment.

I did this tonight. Nice stiff pull.

[travs]

That is a mighty fine effort Mr B Those crimps really are very very small. You will of course have to stick your neck out and offer the obligatory grade!