[Ally Smith]

Flailed on this last week and keen for a rematch.
Question is, do you get the manky crimp on the lip with your left (and roll over to get right in pockety side pull type thingy) or get it with your right (and go to the lip next-to said side pull thingy with the left)?
Photos of both methods on Yorkshiregrit.co.uk

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=almscliff__jess_roof&n=3

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=almscliff__jess_roof

Failed on both methods? Are there any footwork tricks, or am i just lacking the power needed?

[richdraws]

I've got some beta for you...

KILL THE FUCKING PIKEY BASTARDS THAT KEEP SHITTING IN THERE. KILL THEM SLOWLY. TWICE.

Also there is a video on Moon climbing of someone doing it, its worth it just to hear the pathetic "flipping c'mon!".

http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=80

Rich x

[ned]

Get the crimp with the left, then bring right hand up into the pockety/sidepull. Its best to take this as a mono, then wiggle the second finger in, rather than trying to stuff both in at once.

Or you can get crimp with left, and grab a pinch on the lip with your right (above the pocket/sidepull) and go again with your right to the jug (more dynamic).

Good luck.

[Banana finger]

Think the key for me was to really work/jam my right foot into the prominent finger jug slot in the roof, then crimp left, cross to mono thingy n so on. Probably bad beta for smaller peeps.

[tomtom]

Hello,
Had a few (too many!) tries on this yesterday in between spotting Rob on it.. I seem to get stuck on the move from this - (pic from Yorkshiregrit.com)



to this:



Every time I went for the lh crimp (the 3rd from final hold - the one Katherine is going for above) just as I was getting close the right foot would ping off - dragging the left with it. Is this 'just' a matter of man-ing TFU and sucking it up with the body tension or is there a sneaky cliff type foot placement? I think my feet were the same as the Dal's in the top pic - LF was on the positive ledge and RF on a smaller nubbiny ledge up and to the right of it.

Great problem btw... and I felt surprisingly close for my puntering capabilities
TT

On Katherines video of it, she just seems to lock off on her right arm and reach up for it (!!)

[Stubbs]

I only have the outside of my left foot on for that move and my right foot just flagging out in the roof to the right, it is really body tensiony.

At your size TT you want to come to the first crimp (the one that Dal has her right hand on) with your left hand, get a right foot footlock in the juggy slot, match a sloper just to the right of your crimp and then roll through to the little pocket with your right hand.

[tomtom]

I only have the outside of my left foot on for that move and my right foot just flagging out in the roof to the right, it is really body tensiony.

At your size TT you want to come to the first crimp (the one that Dal has her right hand on) with your left hand, get a right foot footlock in the juggy slot, match a sloper just to the right of your crimp and then roll through to the little pocket with your right hand.

Thanks Tim, so that way it is a real tension job..
How you suggested was how Rob was doing it (though he only had the tension to do it a couple of times).... It felt pretty close doing it the first way I was just loosing my feet on the very last bit of the lunge! a bit like the first (100) times I tried DWR! (I used the outside of my LF and semi egyptianed with my RF in the hold Dal's RF is on).

I'll give method 2 a bash but that sounds a bit tricky - thats a biggg reach to come through with the Lhand then rolling through to the finger pocket sounds tricky - but method 1 is sweet - as I REALLY like the move to get that crip with the RH how Dal has it. RF in the low pocket, drop my right knee and rolling through to reach the crimp was luuurvley! the further you got the more you came onto the RF.. I've still got rather sore skin from the crystals on that crimp!!

[Robl]

Sounds like I just need to MAN it up a bit more then.. sequence is right.... 

[Brolly]

I only have the outside of my left foot on for that move and my right foot just flagging out in the roof to the right, it is really body tensiony.

I'm sure that I used the inside of my left foot (or basically my big toe) and then flagged the right foot to the left, under my left leg and therefore very different to Dal's photo.  Or Tims method which has left me confused as last time I did it was with Tim a couple of weeks ago.

"the 3rd from final hold"

There are a few more moves after this to get over the next section of roof!  Can't have the full Jess tick without topping out on top of the cliff!

Cheers Ol