[The Sausage]

Howdy Y'all,
Tried this (again) yesterday. How do people hold the first left hand hold? I was crimping the base of it, rather than pinching. Getting the distance is fine, but I think holding the swing without pinching might be tricky. Would be grateful for any beta.
Joe

[i_a_coops]

Are you talking about the one at Bowles Rocks?

If so, I think crimping works better than pinching. Get that crimp, then reach out for a hold in the crack on the lip with your right hand, keeping your feet in the break (heel or toe, doesn't matter). Now take your feet off and get your right heel on above your right leg, this lets you take your left hand off and pull with various limbs for a sloper up and left. Then you have to get your right toe where your right heel is, and go for the crack up and right of the sloper. You can jam it, but I use it as a sidepull. Then go for the top!

Hope that helps, if it is the right climb!

[Paul B]

Are you talking about the one at Bowles Rocks?

If so, I think crimping works better than pinching. Get that crimp, then reach out for a hold in the crack on the lip with your right hand, keeping your feet in the break (heel or toe, doesn't matter). Now take your feet off and get your right heel on above your right leg, this lets you take your left hand off and pull with various limbs for a sloper up and left. Then you have to get your right toe where your right heel is, and go for the crack up and right of the sloper. You can jam it, but I use it as a sidepull. Then go for the top!

Hope that helps, if it is the right climb!

I think he's on about the one at "the place we do not speak of", featured in one summer. I'd say crimp it but thats just me, I crimp on the sloper as well.

[i_a_coops]

 

Should have known by the lack of apology for posting on southern sandstone....

[saltbeef]

Are you talking about the one at Bowles Rocks?

If so, I think crimping works better than pinching. Get that crimp, then reach out for a hold in the crack on the lip with your right hand, keeping your feet in the break (heel or toe, doesn't matter). Now take your feet off and get your right heel on above your right leg, this lets you take your left hand off and pull with various limbs for a sloper up and left. Then you have to get your right toe where your right heel is, and go for the crack up and right of the sloper. You can jam it, but I use it as a sidepull. Then go for the top!

Joe if you use this sequence on the place that is not mentioned i will verily give you a pound.

[The Aaronator]

I don't suppose that anyone has a R - L (or L-R) route list for the place that is not mentioned. I have a list but it is in grade order, which is not much use as it has been so long since I was last there that I can bearly even remember where it is (I have the POI now) never mind which route is which 

[Stubbs]

Joe if you use this sequence on the place that is not mentioned i will verily give you a pounding.

[fiveknuckle21]

I found that half crimping it worked a treat, theres a really solid spot for the middle finger aswell.

[The Sausage]

I found that half crimping it worked a treat, theres a really solid spot for the middle finger aswell.

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks.