[(woz)]

There seems to be a little confusion as to where this starts (for those not 'in the know' at least). I assumed that as a route, it would start from as high as you can reach (glued up hold in pic), but there are several chalky holds further down and right, as well as a bolt.
Could someone hit me up with the knowledge? Oh, and before someone pipes up with "thats shit, damp, choss etc", I don't care. It's an official old(ish) skool peak limestone jerry tick and I want to try it.

[cofe]

i don't where it starts sweet cheeks but you might want to think about p/x your wheels for a white peugot 205 gti before you try it. just so you can stand on the roof and check it out.

is it dry at the mo?

[Bonjoy]

As you suspect it starts on the good hold which is just in reach from the ground (or a rock/pad if you aren't tall).

[Ru]

Sounds about right. I know where it starts to look at it, but can't remember the holds to describe. But the start holds are above (my) head height and down and left of the hole.

[dobbin]

I remember being told that if you can do the first move its pretty much over - that said, that came from the previous poster and he dismissed it as its a full body length between the holds for him.

[Johnny Brown]

Cheat Stones! Then one move and over! FFS it couldn't be much shorter as it is!
Anyone who climbs here needs to take a long hard look at themselves.

[(woz)]

i don't where it starts sweet cheeks but you might want to think about p/x your wheels for a white Peugeot 205 gti before you try it. just so you can stand on the roof and check it out.

is it dry at the mo?

Dry? I think so, but didn't try it so I can't be sure. Might be a bit of moisture in the back of the holds though.

Was going to try and take my dad's old Land Rover down for the full inspection. Doesn't really say Power of Climbing though.

[cofe]

Doesn't really say Power of Climbing though.

exactly.

[dave]

Cheat Stones! Then one move and over! FFS it couldn't be much shorter as it is!
Anyone who climbs here needs to take a long hard look at themselves.

i'd certainly admire myself in the mirror if i did this.

you could do it without a cheat stone, but it'd be another E5 lost.

[r-man]

 

[monkey boy]

Cheat Stones! Then one move and over! FFS it couldn't be much shorter as it is!
Anyone who climbs here needs to take a long hard look at themselves.

One move and then over?! That sounds good to me. Is this the cave just up from Beginners Wall? What kind of grade is it suppose to go at?

[dobbin]

8c route! think it got 8a/+ bloc. Only had 5 ascents?

[Ru]

One move and then over?! That sounds good to me. Is this the cave just up from Beginners WallWhat kind of grade is it suppose to go at?

It's come down a bit since the 8c days - sort of route 8b/+ I think now. It's a bit more than one move, what I meant was that the first move is a big one that I didn't think I could do, whereas the rest I thought I could - so for me to do it basically boiled down to sussing one move. I hasten to add that I spent about 15 minutes 5 years ago trying it - even as a lover of short knarly peak routes I failed to get psyched by spending much time in this cave, but the route does seem to be drier in recent years.

[Bonjoy]

 How has it come down in grade??? Story I heard (from Harris I think) was that a key foothold had broke and it has not been repeated since. T'was also said that it was always more 8c than 8b+ and now it's even harder. How that makes it possibly 8b I don't know.

[Ru]

Well Malc downgraded it to 8b+, and I talked to John Welford about it and he said 8b+ after he did it. Not sure where I got the 8b/+ bit from - talking to someone else but can't honestly remember who. In reality then probably 8b+. That first move would have to be stinking hard for it to be 8c as I went on the top bit and did the moves to the hole, and from the hole to the top in a few tries, the hole was very wet. I then tried the start move and gave up as I thought it was too far for me. I can't comment on the foothold, but it's pretty featured limestone and I'd be suprised if there was nothing that couldn't be used instead. It's always going to be hard to give it a route grade as it's not really like doing a route as the crux is the first move.

[dave]

on a side issue does anyone know what the sit-start problem to the left of seans is?

[Ru]

on a side issue does anyone know what the sit-start problem to the left of seans is?

Various people's project over the years, but no-one's problem. It will be hard.

[monkey boy]

OOO this cave sounds like fun! It looks small from the picture could the route be climbed with just pads or is the route decieving?

[andy popp]

Mark Leach soloed it (without pads) many moons ago

[(woz)]

OOO this cave sounds like fun! It looks small from the picture could the route be climbed with just pads or is the route deceiving?

Chill out Dave, like people have said: the cave is a shithole, and spending more than a few minutes in there would be thoroughly unappetising. Having said that, I'm still keen to have a go, especially in early morning/evening with less traffic.
I wouldn't fancy the top moves without at least trying them on a rope first. I assume thats how Mark Leach did it.

[Fiend]

8c, hardest solo in the world, was radical 

[dave]

in the photo of the solo in OTE he was wearing a baseball cap on backwards. that's well PJ&Duncan.

[andy_e]

Was going to try and take my dad's old Land Rover down for the full inspection. Doesn't really say Power of Climbing though.

I get a real sense of power when I look at a Honda Jazz... 

[Andy Harris]

That 1st move on Seans is brick and the rest is by no means easy and would be so easy to fall off. Jon W spent a long time bouldering out the 1st move and when he finally did it the route went down. The jump to the hole is brilliant and the last bit involves getting in to a massive stretch between toe hooking and 2 crimps. The resultant cut loose is wild and if soloed you'd probably end up in the road.

Some foot holds did fall off and I can't think of anyone who's repeated it. Should suit the modern boulderer though. Relatively good holds but just very steep and dynamic. Shame it's most common use is for fly tipping!

Would say its Font 8a for deffo and harder than most peak boulders of this grade. Not one for the short. If you grade stuff like evolution & bastard 8c it's only 8b+ but if you grade them 8c+ it's 8c.

I'm pretty sure Malc lead it 3 times on the trot without a rest leaving Mr Heap speechless.

[BenF]

I'm pretty sure Malc lead it 3 times on the trot without a rest

Did he keep forgetting to get his clips out on the way back down?