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Itchy Groove-Newstones (Read 2676 times)

Krank

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Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 08, 2007, 12:46:01 pm
Had a go on itchy fingers a couple of weeks ago and found it really nice, so i tried Itchy Groove on sat and couldn't get of the ground. Any help would be good. cheers

AndiT

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#1 Re: Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 08, 2007, 12:58:22 pm
Can you remind where exactly this problem is? I don't have a guide to hand and don't recognise the name...

Krank

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#2 Re: Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 08, 2007, 01:12:33 pm
Its on the Scratch Buttress just before you get to sly stallone area and is set back slightly.

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#3 Re: Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 08, 2007, 05:16:25 pm
As I recall, it's quite a stiff stand up into a gaston with your left hand.  There's a sloper on the wall for your right but it's quite poor.  The footholds round these parts are crumbling so it might be harder than the given grade these days.

This may or may not be useful.  If you want some beta that isn't based on hazy recollections from five years ago, maybe some other kind soul will fill in the details.

Eddies

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#4 Re: Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 08, 2007, 06:26:52 pm
Getting off the ground is the crux. Very balancy to start

I start with R/H on a little sloper and My R/F on the little shelf (very worn so be carefull and avoid if damp)
Then I reach/hop up with L/H and pinch the left side of groove, then get L/F on and reach out right with R/H to a small crimp.
Once you stick this your well away.


Krank

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#5 Re: Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 09, 2007, 09:23:50 am
Cheers all, i was thinking the bottom was the crux as i couldn't get of the floor. I will give a good go this weekend if the weather holds.

al

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#6 Re: Itchy Groove-Newstones
May 09, 2007, 12:45:03 pm
this is a different proposition in the summer (standard i guess for grit) - you have to try pulling on the holds on the right wall, into the groove, while winter means you can drag on all sorts of stuff and get into it early  :)

 

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