UKBouldering.com

Lizard King - Llanberis Pass (Read 5127 times)

MAndy

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 3
  • Karma: +0/-0
Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 03, 2007, 06:27:44 pm
Can anybody let me know where the variations of the Lizard King go and what they get. Cheers.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 03, 2007, 06:53:19 pm
I think theres basically two versions, the original with a scary last move to get the letterbox hold and a leftwards exit which drops down into the juggy ramp. I'm sure Pantontino will have some more information.

dave

  • Guest
#2 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 03, 2007, 08:02:12 pm
we tried this recently. looks like they share the same first move, the hard one then breaks up right for a pinch, but the easier one breaks left for a ramp. (not dropping down, the one that drops down is a mark evans problem traversing off left).

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#3 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 03, 2007, 10:37:16 pm
Dave has hit the nail right on top of the top bit where you're supposed to hit it with the hammer thingy.

3 possible lines - low and shite, mid and tasty, high and wild.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
#4 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 03, 2007, 11:19:49 pm
you don't get much (any) change from V8 for the middle one. V9? very good. will be going back at some point.


BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#5 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 08:14:21 am
3 possible lines - low and shite, mid and tasty, high and wild.

 :lol:
That is a near perfect summary of the lines, particularly the low version which really shouldn't be called Lizard anything.  Or maybe Lizard Avoidance at most.

On the vague theme (ie whilst we're talking about this block of rock), there is an almost worthwhile little problem on the left arete (ie a sitting start that pulls round the left arete to the side of the easy problem with the horn).  It's tricky to avoid the smaller block to the left but quite nice climbing on edges.  As I said, almost worthwhile.  Or at least worth doing if you're up there and are the kind of person that needs to try and climb everything that stays more or less in one piece when you pull on it.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#6 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 11:20:25 am
Going to wales this weekend and quite want to do the V10 version of this as seen in amature hardcore (thought it looked quality), is it obvious what the hard version does? Will have the guide with us too!

Cheers

dave

  • Guest
#7 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 12:25:36 pm
its really obvious.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#8 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 12:26:08 pm
Is it obvious what the hard version does?

The guide describes it well, but it basically blasts straight up from the sitter, avoiding moves out to the left.  Actually I think it does finish slightly to the left of the start, but not far.  Take some pads and spotters.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#9 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 01:27:56 pm
Thanks guys hopefully will have some success!

dave

  • Guest
#10 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 01:34:06 pm
couple of points to bear in mind:

1. we didn't find the holds on LK very comfy, infact they were pretty painful/skin damaging. you'll know if this is an issue for you.

2. and also, when it says the direct is V10, they mean real no-shitting V10, not yorkshire "the keel" V10. i don't know how hard you climb, but i wouldn't trek up there if you're after an easy life. we didn't even bag the V8 version, despite then going down the pass when pretty busted and knocking off stuff like ultimate retro and sleep dep in short order.

good luck, cos the V10 does look well weapon.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
#11 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 02:06:38 pm
the landing might be well weapon too if you fluff the last move on the V10. like a weapon of ass destruction.

Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease is on the last move of the V8/9 in this tasty photo from Keith Shrapnel:



you can keep your foot on for the last move though, and we were going for a sloper rather than the letterbox cos easier to hit etc.

Stubbs

  • Guest
#12 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 03:12:42 pm
Monkey Boy certainly has the necessary necessities for the climbing, although the walk might be an issue  ;D

dave

  • Guest
#13 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 03:40:05 pm
this be the church of england busting a move on liz-hurley king-clancy .



don't expect to be basking in sunshine up there like Ceejay Dizzle unless you get up reet early.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#14 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 03:45:42 pm
this be the church of england busting a move on liz-hurley king-clancy .
don't expect to be basking in sunshine up there like Ceejay Dizzle unless you get up reet early.
Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease is on the last move of the V8/9 in this tasty photo from Keith Shrapnel:
Word to that- I just wish I understood it!!!   :lol:

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
#15 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 04, 2007, 04:42:59 pm
That's a great photo dave! Shame about the burnt out background, but still excellent

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#16 Re: Lizard King - Llanberis Pass
May 05, 2007, 12:18:29 am
bla bla bla with faux cool sunglasses on (like with bells on, but noisier)
Word to that- I just wish I understood it!!!   :lol:

It's white man's jive. And ting.


« Last Edit: May 05, 2007, 12:26:28 am by r-man »

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal