[nathan wind]

Visiting a mate in Newcastle next week for a couple of days.. they dont climb but I'm keen to use the opportunity to check out some of the bouldering.. never climbed up there but am psyched to check out kyloe-in-the-woods, (amongst other places), just wondered if anyone knew of an online guide? (I'm skint!), whether it'll be in decent condition and what the must do probs are?

[shaun-H]

check the search for "Northumberland blues" lots of info there!!! or check out www.northumberlandbouldering.co.UK ,or www.climbonline.co.UK some OK guides and picture on there!!!

kyloe must do :
-Monty pythons
-bad finger
-bad company
-hitchhikers
-jocks and Gordie's

Also visit shafto top notch middle grade bouldering Imo

shafto problems!!!!!

Timmy tip toes
Neb's roof
broken hearts are for.... shafto problems!!!!!

                     

[Paul B]

Shaftoe is a second rate venue compared to Bowden, Kyloe In and Back Bowden. If it's your first time in the county these have far too many good problems to even warrent thinking about going to any of the smaller venues.

[shaun-H]

i don't agree with shafto being second rate many people have reccomend it to me and i have had to complaints, but bowden i always find very sandy never had a good day there !!!!

yes, kyleo is a must for anyone visiting northumberland tho!!

[dave]

i always found that the rock architecture of bowden always looks amazing, and its a beautiful place to be, but the bouldering never lives up to it, let down a bit by rock quality. the best features seem to be on the routes. i prefer back bowden or kyloe in.

[saltbeef]

what dave said. bowden is worth going, but yeah there are some mega route/solo/HIGHballs, but not as good as kyloe/back bowden. but then I like climbing on a board. I went to shaftoe, I won't go back. there are about 5 problems to do there of any worth.

[richdraws]

I am jumping on the Shaftoe bandwagon too Shaun- the quality of the problems is high, though spread out more than kyloe. Bowden is overrated, Back bowden is fun though. For a flying visit stick with kyloe, its better documented and the problems are ace on toast.

However the main problem with the entire county for anyone without 'the knowledge' is the shit arse guide. Written it seems grudgingly with an attitude to keep people away. Why Oh Why etc... grumble...

[dobbin]

I'm quite for it keeping people away to be honest. One of the best things about the County is the lack of people, shame that it should become busy.

[Johnny Brown]

I'd far rather go to Bowden than Kyloe-in. I realise I'm bucking the trend here, but its to do with aesthetics, variety and setting. Having said that, I get more out of Northumberland generally concentrating on highballs and short solos. Call me old-fashioned, but I don't get a lot out of the match-and-drop-off school of top outs.

[Pantontino]

JB you are clearly a mountaineer at heart; you should carry some little flags in your pocket to plant on the summits of of the boulders/crags.

I suppose Kyloe-in would be better if you could press out a mantel at the top of a problem (and stroll around in the sun admiring the view), but the climbing is so brilliant that it matters little.

Whenever I go to Bowden I always end up, at least once, in some Oh-my-god-why-have-I-soloed-up-here-to-this-hideous-sandy-top-out type scenario. Happens every time, I just don't learn.

[Paul B]

I am jumping on the Shaftoe bandwagon too Shaun....

Shaftoe isn't great at all, especially compared to Bowden, Back Bowden and Kyloe In. Bowden is certainly not overrated, it has loads of high quality problems.

Call me old-fashioned, but I don't get a lot out of the match-and-drop-off school of top outs.

I know people originally topped out on things like poverty and working class but how many people still do this on the actual problems rather than on things that are clearly routes?

[grimer]

Yeah, when I went to Shafoe I couldn't find any climbing, just bits of sandy rock. Then I realised that the little bits of sandy rock was the climbing. Perhaps I messed it, but it seemed that in an area as amazing as Northumberland where there is great, proper quality, Shaftoe was indeed seem to me to be pretty poor. It was like something you'd climb on in Bedfordshire.

I thought it was one of those places that are in vogue for a bit, because they get developed at a late date compared to 'good' areas, so the generate some excitement. A bit like Stanton Moor, for example.

[dave]

to be fair to shaftoe i went once and did a few good things on excellent rock. the best bit of rock by far seemed to be this big turtle-head prow type thing, there was a photo of sean myles on a then-project in OTE years ago which looked brilliant, and we did a good V4 type thing just next to it. have since seen photos of some toss looking stuff though. probably a great crag if you're local and have got the time to explore and find the best stuff, but its not great on a nanional scale, for a flying visit stick with the mainstream crags.

[Bonjoy]

To be fair to Stanton, Andle Stone Wall, Spare Rib and Brad's Wall are exceedingly good problems and most of the other probs are pretty good too, especially if you include so-called Naughty Crag Y and the mighty Urban Culture Dispatj, it's just a bit spread out. I'd be happy to go to Shaftoe if it's as good as Stanton

 I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Queen's Crag or Callerhues as good county venues

[Paul B]

Queens Crag is good but definately not in line with the likes of Kyloe in, wordline is one of the best roof/prow problems I've ever done and queen kong although it kicked my ass was awesome (Bonjoy - I reckon it'd suit you down to the ground...)

[Pantontino]

There are a lot of 'local's problems' at Shaftoe, but it has got some very cool sections. If you go to Arete Land, the Font Boulder, and the Turtle/Neb Roof area you'll see the best of it. It's definitely worth a visit for these areas.

Also, if you're pushed for time, it's a lot nearer to Newcastle than the northern crags.

[richdraws]

I cant wait to get back to Queens crag, I have only been the once. That big narrow boulder with red dragon on is fun. The v4 problem on it feels scary for some reason.
Worldline is awesome, possibly overgraded  (toby, shaun)
Need to get to Callerhues.
Chris Graham kindly put up some info about Edlingham not too long ago, but unless you have done everything in the county I wouldnt bother....

I stand by my position on shaftoe,top outs add a lot of quality. Even vegetation assisted ones.....
Although if you climb at 7c+ or above I think you will tick it and fuck off.   

As simon says it is only half an hour away from newhassle

[Paul B]

Worldline is awesome, possibly overgraded  (toby, shaun)
[/quote]

 

I stand by my position on shaftoe,top outs add a lot of quality. Even vegetation assisted ones.....

I stand by mine - Its barely worth bothering with, maybe if your working up in Newcastle and only have an hour or so before it gets dark, but thats still a maybe...

[sjw]

I'm jumping on the 'avoid bowden' bandwagon. although the crag is beautiful and there are some decent problems, i find it really hard to get physced for anything there because it's turning into such a sandy mess which is a shame. I vote Kyloe-In, amazing!!! Nothing wrong with shaftoe at all, some class problems on good rock but I think you need to know where to look.

Visited Rothley for the first time today, well worth a visit there (about 10mins past shaftoe). Definately more of an 'easy-day' crag but there are some total classics.

I'm desperate to get to Callerhues like....is the walk in as bad as i've heard rumours about...??

[Somebody's Fool]

Depends what your definition of bad is.  It's certainly quite long (40mins) but after the initial field it's not steep.  Although it can be boggy.

Take a spare pair of socks would be my advice.  Well worth the effort if immaculate sandstone highballs are your bag.

[SA Chris]

If anyone is planning on heading to Northumberland for the weekend, and does any surfing, take a board. It's set to be good.

[yoda]

I really rate Shaftoe but suppose im biased as its my Local venue,I can see how people visiting for the first time may not be impressed as the rock quality is varied and the decent problems are pretty spread out,but Ive had some great sessions there and am still discovering gems here and there,I agree with Richdraws that part of the problem is the local guide which seriously needs revamping.

[nathan wind]

Cheers for all the info guys..

Looking at a map Shaftoe looks ideal for a nearby fix and Kyloe awesome, but probably one for when I've more time.. need to buy the guide and check it all out I 'spose.. Some of the pics I've seen of Shaftoe seem to show some good probs so I'm psyched!  ..I guess 'cos I rate places like west vale and woodhouse (my nearest bouldering) and know how good they can be despite their limitations and bad rep I'm into checking it out.. 

[Paul B]

really?
I will once again urge you to reconsider and go to one of the major venues...

[nathan wind]

really?

yeah, but only because of time restrictions! if I get the chance I' am gonna try and make it to Kyloe-In next weekend (ie the one after easter!!)... looks as though I could be spending quite a bit of time up there soon so will have plenty of opportunity to check out the major crags.. never climbed at Kyloe and Bowden but have heard and seen good things so I'm psyched.. what are these places like in the summer with regards to friction?