Whilst nowhere near the standard of Dan Kennard's My Chemical Romance I've managed to use the good weather and the bank holiday weekend to put in a few lower grade additions
To add to Backstairs at the neddyfields which I reported on
dorset-climbing.com a couple of weeks ago
(SS directly under Pete's Rib , throw a powerful slap to the break and do the pumpy traverse to the start of what was stairway direct and finish up this problem- V4)
there's four new problems
On the Left hand side of the new cuttings
Phat Slab (Blue) (V3)
A tight line on the slab left of Phats and Bigs. Straight up the slab via a flat hold and 3 undercuts without using the left arête or the ledge and the good crimp above it on the left.
Jonny Sniper (Pink) (V4/5)
The arête left of Phat slab on its left hand side. Nice moves from a sit start (hands on ledge) lead to some technical moves to gain the top break via a gaston on the far left of the small roof. Highball.
Percy Thrower (Green) (V4)
The wall left of Jonny Sniper and sharing some holds with JS. From a sit start gentle climbing (keeping out of the corner- crack line for left hand) leads to the gaston on JS – taken with the right hand as a side pull, a distinctly cruxy move leads to a bowl in the lip above the roof. Highball.
And on the boulderfield
Bend your arms to look like wings (red) (V5/6)
On the tank boulder, sharing the start for crouching start, hidden agenda V4 (shown in blue), gain the crimp and the side pull on the left of the groove of CS,HA then power up left to obvious slot and hence the top – slightly eliminate (not using holds on right of groove) but doesn’t feel it.
if anyone's around try them out......
Ben
