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The Art of White Hat Wearing (Read 28022 times)

Johnny Brown

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The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 06:44:47 pm
Quote

Well myself and somebody's fool did a bit of work here rebuilding the landing today. I'm not a great fan of crag patios but I'm quite pleased with the job we managed to do. The death block has been rolled to the left, a little infilling has left a nice landing. It could be a bit deeper, but I'd be happy to try it on my own with one pad now.
Obviously this has added an extra move, luckily its not impossible and perfectly in keeping with the rest of the problem.



Anyway, this is all gravy. This problem is amazing, very good, very hard and just the right height. I reckon 7b+/V9, very much like a mirror image of West Side Story - layaways with left hand, not very useful crimp for right, variety of crap holds and a crux lunge for the top. We didn't use the foothold out left as in the old pic, its quite close to the arete and hard to get to. The flakes to the right will go, probably at a similar standard, start likely to be shared though. Enjoy.

dave

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#1 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:04:26 pm
nice work - i was put off trying this cos it looked like the landing could leave you quadraspazzed on a life-glug. will be keen to get on it now. word to ya mutha, fucker.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2007, 07:22:12 pm by dave »

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:07:18 pm
Good work. I'm psyched

Somebody's Fool

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#3 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:25:56 pm
It is well good.  I was a bit peeved not to bag it myself but my fear receptors have been overly active during the last couple of days.  It's quite a committing slap to the top.  Although it would have been unjustifiable to boulder this out pre-today.

Nice photo.

Ru

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#4 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:29:06 pm
This looks ace, well keen to have a go. Good effort.

uptown

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#5 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:46:38 pm
fine effort adam, nice to see it getting the attention at long last.

fatdoc

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#6 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:50:14 pm
OK, so i'm thick...

where is it please??

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 07:57:46 pm
Sorry, should have been in the thread title.

Curbar edge, but at the Froggatt end, about 150yds south from the stream/ path that marks the southern end of Froggatt (ie Chequers buttress, Jankers groove etc)
.

Dolly

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#8 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 07, 2007, 11:45:06 pm
Looks great.
What are the 2 aretes to the right BTW ?
Are there any holds ?

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 08:53:35 am
One is the arete of Be Somebody Or Be Somebody's Fool. We climbed it a few months ago. Seem to remember it was 6C-ish, don't think a name was devised. It wasn't as good as it's neighbours.

monkey boy

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#10 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 09:22:50 am
Looks great, nice picture too! Is it best to park as for curbar or frogatt then to get to it?

Houdini

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#11 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 09:42:45 am
Very nice looking problem, unusual name.  White hats rock!  Don't they?  :-[

grimer

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#12 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 09:56:37 am
Yeah that looks great.

Is the Somebody's Fool problem really called Be Somebody or be Somebody's Fool?

Johnny Brown

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#13 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 09:58:58 am
Quote
Is it best to park as for curbar or frogatt then to get to it?

Quickest approach would be from The Chequers, but its more pleasant to walk in from either end, its about halfway so depends on what else you weant to do really.

Quote
Is the Somebody's Fool problem really called Be Somebody or be Somebody's Fool?

Yes. The two events are related, suprisingly.

ned

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#14 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 11:55:54 am
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Is the Somebody's Fool problem really called Be Somebody or be Somebody's Fool?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=eG5DeiZBDgM

Monolith

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#15 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 12:01:19 pm
Ned - that's class! Just what I needed. Nothing like a fresh dose of motivation in the morning. And thanks Mr T for reminding me that I can climb V15 if I really want to.


Somebody's Fool

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#16 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 12:18:53 pm
I should add the boulder problem came before the internet pseudonym.

grimer

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#17 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 12:39:34 pm
Just a minor, personal aesthetic point really.

I don't like really long names for boulder problems.

That's 10 syllables!

Come to think of it, The Art of White hat Wearing is 7.

A Dream of White Horses is only 6, and that still forces people just to call it Dream.

You definitely should be limited to no more than 1 syllable for every couple of metres.



Bonjoy

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#18 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 12:43:03 pm
You must be well chuffed with Bransby's new one then - Sparrow, Forward Slash, My Best Friend The Watermelon. That's 13!

Johnny Brown

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#19 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 12:51:09 pm
I don't mind long names (Clive Coolhead etc is taking it too far) but I do mind crap ones. Hopefully El Mo'll see sense once he's had his fun in the mags and guidebook time comes around.

Somebody's Fool

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#20 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 12:55:34 pm
Beat me to it Bonjoy.  Although the term 'boulder problem' applies quite loosely to that particular feature.

I've not adhered to the BMC Brevity for Bouldering Ratio for Urban Culture Dispatj either.  Seems I'm quite the waffler.

cofe

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#21 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 01:02:54 pm
You must be well chuffed with Bransby's new one then - Sparrow, Forward Slash, My Best Friend The Watermelon. That's 13!

can't find his original post but did el mocho not call it 'Sparrow/My best mate the watermelon'
note the subtle differences kids.
that is seeing sense.


Pantontino

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#22 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 01:12:17 pm
Whatever, it'll just end up as 'Sparrow'.

Pete Robins has just done a new line on the Ormes and he wants to call it 'Bell Cheese'. These wacky kids. ::)

Bonjoy

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#23 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 01:14:58 pm
Cofe - http://bouldr.net/climbs/158/sparrow%20forward%20slash%20my%20bestfriend%20the%20watermelon
You need to keep abreast of the new media. It's all about the facts

Somebody's Fool

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#24 Re: The Art of White Hat Wearing
February 08, 2007, 01:26:12 pm
To be fair to cofe the original post said:

Quote
Can't think of a name yet. Probably call it Sparrow or My Best Mate the Watermelon or something.

Hence the mate correction.  Where the frig he got / from is anyone's guess.

 

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