[Johnny Brown]

Of course. I'd say 7b+ for anyone shorter than 5'7" or so, as they have to do an extra move. Its right on the boundary that's for sure. Spare Rib is a good one to compare it to at 7b - not so hard once you know what to do.

[Fiend]

English 6c still, tho?

Nice photo of it.

[Somebody's Fool]

I think we should take Johnny Brown's WSS comparisons with a pinch of salt.  He has climbed it as many times as there are grains in a bag of salt and his engrams are not going to associate it with top end 7b+.  White Hat Wearing should stay at 7b+.  It's harder than Spare Rib and at least as scary.

Nice photo. Probably as good as mine.

[Johnny Brown]

Its never as scary as Spare Rib, though slightly more technical. Heady comparisons though, could this be a contender for the best highball at Curbar?

[Bonjoy]

I dare say. What's the competition?
 Ben's Wall with full topout
 Life Seeker
 Fidget
 Blue Hawaii
 Unreachable Star
 Black Nix Wall
 
 

[Somebody's Fool]

May be not quite as scary then.  I was a bolder climber when I did Spare Rib.  It has better, more involving climbing than all those on your list.  Probably comes in a close second to the slightly overhanging wall to it's right.  I forget what it's called...

[El Mocho]

Funny all this talk of Mr T and Somebodys fool, cos he was round my house the other day (we are pretty pally as we share the same initials - B.A.B. - look pretty similar and are both very cool)

He has been wanting to try The Art of White Hat Wearing and was pleased to hear about the improvements to the landing as he felt it was a bit unjustifiable before "I pity the poor fool who falls off that" as he used to say. Hearing that the Somebodys fool problem was near by he got well excited.

I have the links to some photos I took:

Reading up about the highballs at Curbar



And looking fly:



(if anyone knows how to edit the pics so you can see them go ahead and do it, also can you tell me what I am doing wrong with the photos)

The best thing about my model Mr T is if you pull the string on his back he comes out with some quality phrases "pity the poor fool" etc

[dave]

thats well plastic.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, well brown too

[Monolith]

That's well no way.

[Johnny Brown]

You've got too much time on your hands

[Idol eyes]

Was playing with my Godson recently and said "lets set them up", it brought back childhood memorys, then did this super cool thing, you get a star wars figure, put it in a stance, get the child to do the same but far away enough to be in porportion with the figure within the view finder on a phone camera, take some shots and the kids are blown away, "hey, he is really big"
El Mo, you are a big kid... try this and post it... like you could be Murdoch.

[Percy B]

Glanced in at the landscaping today - nice work! I'm not sure which arete Be Somebody.... climbs - thought it would be the one nearest the corner. I did the blunt rib to the right (gained from the obvious diagonally slanting edges in the middle of the wall) a few years ago and it is pretty good (even if I do say so myself, and even with the nasty landing.... try shifting that block - its a biggun!) High with a spicy topout as I recall. The big Septic Tank (Brian Chase) was super psyched for the problem but repeatedly bottled the top, allowing for somebody with far less imagination to step in for the glory. No name and no grade but remember that it is a good problem, and another to do if you've made the effort to walk in that far. There's a load of other stuff around there that would make nice boulder problems for those who are keen and prepared to bushwhach a bit. Worth taking a rope and a good brush to clean stuff though.

[Johnny Brown]

Be Somebody climb the 2nd wall right of the corner, there is nothing on the first one (don't get excited, it doesn't look like anything worthwhile will be established either). It sounds like your arete is just right of Be somebody, possibly sharing start holds though they must be independent as it doesn't use the arete at all.

[(woz)]

I also checked out TAOWHW today - top marks for the landing! Was ultra keen for a go but the wet streak was a little too persistant.
Had quite a good day in general. Went to have a look at Bruno Mindhorn, but that was soaked. Had a play around TAOWHW and then finished off by dispatching one of my nemesis, Jet Pack (Found that I had been holding one of the holds wrong all this time )
Few questions:

1. On Bruno do you use the right lip of the overhang to get out to the arete and crack? Or is it ultra direct through the roof using the minuscule crimps?

2.
Today I did the left hand line (direct without either arete or crack), and then the right hand line (a bit eliminate due to not using the edge of the block. How do these relate to "Be Somebody" ? Felt quite a bit harder than the 6c mentioned.  Quality and scary though.

3. In a climber news report it says "Simon Wilson climbed a superb new v7 on the narrow wall right of TAOWHW". How does this relate to the other problems? Is this the flake line just right, or on one of the walls at right angles to TAOWHW?

[Johnny Brown]

http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10150/Somebody2.jpg

The red line you did is Be somebody..., first climbed by Simon 'fool' Wilson at V7 and reported in Climber. The blue line I'm guessing is Percy's blunt rib mentioned above.

[cofe]

surely there is only room for one line up the wall. anything else would have to use the arete on the right, or the crack on the left.

[(woz)]

Thanks for clearing that up for me

surely there is only room for one line up the wall. anything else would have to use the arete on the right, or the crack on the left.

Yep. The right hand thing I did was very eliminate, just messing around.

[Bonjoy]

Bruno goes out to the RH lip then into the crack.
Had a look at Jetpack on Saturday. Sad to see that something has broke making an extra hold. The original way used the LH layaway and crap sloper sidepull at the same level, then dynoed straight to the jug. The good edge thing about a foot higher than the sidepulls is the new hold. Did you manage to remove that huge half fallen branch that was blocking the exit?

 Another addition was made to the area on Sat. A bit eliminatey but a good move or two on great rock. The Arse Of Japan (unless JB has a prefered name) is a direct/LH version of The Art Of Japan at 7a+ ish. My daft idea, but Johnny Brown beat me to the ascent. Undercuts and smears and a dynamic bowl for slopers.

[(woz)]

Bruno goes out to the RH lip then into the crack.

Cheers, will be back for a go soon no doubt.

Had a look at Jetpack on Saturday. Sad to see that something has broke making an extra hold. The original way used the LH layaway and crap sloper sidepull at the same level, then dynoed straight to the jug. The good edge thing about a foot higher than the sidepulls is the new hold. Did you manage to remove that huge half fallen branch that was blocking the exit?

Don't worry, I went straight from the low two sidepulls. Tis a shame that the new hold has appeared; I can't tell you whether it would make it easier as I didn't try. There was a branch covering the first few lip holds Pea Crab Shuffle, but the jug on JP was fine for the mantle.
Dan

[Percy B]

Red line is the problem I did - it was when Big Brian was at uni is Sheff so must have been 3 years ago. 6c though? You rotten bastards! Highball with the crux at the top and a bad landing...... its taller than TAOWHW! This might be a little uncharitable JB - bearing in mind when you are climbing a lot harder its easy to give problems you can do easily a low grade. Certainly Mr Chase didn't like it much and would probably argue the toss with your grade. How about 7a?

[dave]

me and scouse tried the red line problem (crimps, lurching into poor undercut on overlap etc) shortly before Somebody's Gooseberry Fool did it and thought it would be like 7a+/b, but then i ripped one of the crimps off and we sacked it.

The fact that we ripped a hold off made us think it must not have been climbed before, or at least not by anyone as strong/heavy.

[Bonjoy]

Good stuff (woz). Go try the Arse if you are in the area to do Bruno. Very satisfying move I thought. Paste feet high and slap for the sloper off the diagonal undercut about 1m left of my knee.

[Johnny Brown]

6c though? You rotten bastards! Highball with the crux at the top and a bad landing...... its taller than TAOWHW! This might be a little uncharitable JB -

I don't remember grading it 6c. Did I?

I pity the poor fool though, that is a real retro-claim bombshell.

[(woz)]

For what it's worth, I would say that Somebody's Fool was right on the money with 7a+. Partly for scare-factor though.