[AndiT]

It`s probably harder for tallies though.

Always the case 

It certainly feels a hell of a lot harder than Wrights to me!

Cheers.

[Mark Lloyd]

You'll have to get the sequence wired before you do the photo sequence for Climb Mag.
I'm quite short and found the last bit awkward and bunched, as Mirf says there are some decent footholds
and some half decent undercut layaways and a cluster of pebbles before the mono hold.

[David S]

 Oooh Don't get me started Andi

[nickreyner]

Please could some tell me the name and grade of the problem left ( of starting jug of simple simon out left to sloper and then crimp out right , finish self out left) of simple simon?

[BenF]

"Sam sam tam" or something similar.  For confirmation, I shall just text someone who knows for sure.

Edit:  Name confirmed as "Sam sam tam".  Grade is around 7b but I haven't done it so I can't vouch for the grade and it is one of Mick Adams' grades so it could be anywhere between 7a and 7c.

[cofe]

sam tan?

[BenF]

Correct.  My spelling mistake I guess, given that it was a Welsh speaker who thought up the name.

[mini]

Please could some tell me the name and grade of the problem left ... of simple simon?

Did this earlier this year and thought it similar if not slightly easier to Simon, which has has always been on the + side of 7b.

Great problem, slighlt mared by the fact it shares some holds from Simon - can always try going direct as first intended!

[dave k]

Was trying Out there and Back 7b+ today (problem 1) on Mirf`s topo. Does this start standing and avoids the pocket out left? i.e. a big pull to the top, or has it been done as a hanging/sitting start?

The hanging start felt desperate, but the standing start avoids all the climbing and seemed just an eliminate finish to the 7a+ traverse.

Anyone clarify things for me?

[dave]

me and scouse had a look at this a while back. i think it starts hanging on a crack/pocket and a crimp. to be honest i found the rock there to be fucking awful - really painful, crystally and looked like it would fall apart (particularly the footholds). coupled with the crouching start it wasn't reeking of quality so we sacked it. bit of a locals problem maybe. the top section above the break (big slap?) looked better. i dare day it would be a better problem at a lower grade by just forgetting about the low start entirely.

[AndiT]

The hanging start felt desperate, but the standing start avoids all the climbing and seemed just an eliminate finish to the 7a+ traverse.

Anyone clarify things for me?

Yeah, it's a sit start on those little pockets and a kind of finger lock pocket, to finish using all above. Should be an issue for a 50 pence problem man! I thing it's nails and painful, Welford made it look 4c, but I suppose that's his job.

[mini]

Often thought of having a pull, but the first pocket/finger jam just looks henious with virtually no footholds. Just looks Higginson to me!

[dave k]

Thought it was from sitting. But the topo off Mirf said it was only 7a+ to start up problem 1 and finish as for 2 (i.e. using the pocket), no way is that first move from hanging start 7a+.

Andy as you know. FPP is only MAX 7a+, where as that is 7b+ so clearly out of my league!   

I removed an old birds nest from the finishing jug on fifty pence problem today. Seriously! The first two holds were damp, as was the de-nested final jug. Using a tee-shirt to keep my hands dryish I managed to get the pocket from the pebble- my fingers still fit! Got set quite comfortably for the final move.  Didn`t repeat it though. Could be 7b+ I guess.  Pretty fingery and harsh on the tips- but I onsighted the last move when doing the 1st ascent so that could also explain my conservative grade estimate.

   

[mini]

I removed an old birds nest from the finishing jug on fifty pence problem today. Seriously!
   

I hope you checked the nest was finished with, as I saw some little birdies using it only a couple of weeks ago. Lets hope the fledglings had left the nest never to return.

[AndiT]

The wrens were still there last Wednesday too...

[Bubba]

After being alerted to this topic by another user I would like to say that firstly I think it's a very bad idea to remove nests at all, and secondly it's a bad idea to advertise that fact. I don't want thousands of enraged twitchers logging on to give you hell.

[SA Chris]

I think it's a very bad idea to remove nests at all,

Unless it's a lice infested shitehawk nest.

[AndiT]

Unless it's a lice infested shitehawk nest.

Yeah, just a chuck a match in then.

[rainbow]

me and scouse had a look at this a while back. i think it starts hanging on a crack/pocket and a crimp. to be honest i found the rock there to be fucking awful - really painful, crystally and looked like it would fall apart (particularly the footholds). coupled with the crouching start it wasn't reeking of quality so we sacked it. bit of a locals problem maybe. the top section above the break (big slap?) looked better. i dare day it would be a better problem at a lower grade by just forgetting about the low start entirely.

It starts sit/hang off finger lock with left,  pocket with right, right foot quite high on small nubbin. Throw for the crimp with left, place feet back on. then throw for break with right. In cool conditions these moves feel quite easy. The move directly to ledge above break is another matter. The cop out version ie finishing up Instant funk makes a better problem.

If you like you probs steep and powerful I thought it quite a classy number, maybe its just me liking duff moves.

Anyway, Ginger Dave managed to pull a big flake off prob 13 (little groove) on Mirf's topo. I've kept it incase anyone wants it glueing back on!!!!

[rainbow]

It starts sit/hang off finger lock with left,  pocket with right,

Doh, meant to say start with finger lock with right, pocket with left.

[Mirf]

Hey I think this is a good problem, though I can't do it. Ok it`s a bit painful
if you have fat fingers, who said climbing was meant to be comfortable anyway?

[dave k]

  Didn`t realise it was a birds nest until i had removed it. From the ground it just looked like a bit of moss, but I guess with hindsight I should have realised it was a nest. Didnt notice any birds, so hopefully all is well.

[rainbow]

Just uploaded some old crappy movies of all things Churnet.

The Eliminate Problem


Superstring


Follow Through


High Speed Imp Act

[mini]

Anyone got any details on the Welford problem at the left hand end of Cottage Rocks that traverses into and up the undercut arete? Name and grade would be useful.

[AndiT]

Probably 7b