[dave k]

Visited Breathe block for the first time this morning. Did a sit start to sufforcation- rather than the jump start-still a bit dynoey. Foot holds were a bit slimy mind!  I really liked Breathe- the sit start look like it would add a grade- poss 7b? Might be possible to come in to Breathe from down and left too. I finished reaching up and rightwards on Breathe, with LH in the pocket, rather than finishing using the top of the arete- makes the last move quite tricky, and means you top out directly/differently than other problems on the block.

[rainbow]

Might be possible to come in to Breathe from down and left too. I finished reaching up and rightwards on Breathe, with LH in the pocket, rather than finishing using the top of the arete- makes the last move quite tricky, and means you top out directly/differently than other problems on the block.

Cool, glad you liked Breathe. I've played on the sit start down and left, thought this would make a cracking sit start Finger Print (line left of Breathe)
If you were able to pull down on the sloper in this heat you should get yourself on The Awakening and feel them beauties!

[dave k]

Did have a look at Awakening and was suitably impressed. A return visit with better conditions and some fuel in the engine is in order. The traverse looks good too and no give away at the grade. 

[joel]

not made it to the Breathe block yet, but I looked at Awakening on sun afternoon and thought it was small but perfectly formed, I thought it looks (but doesn't climb much like) a baby La Baleine...

http://bleau.info/petit/741.html

(sorry don't know how to post pics. Will learn soon.)

Couldn't do it at all  - felt desperate. Good conditions would help. I did manage Bizarre in the heat, felt soft for the grade as discussed in another thread I think.

Thanks for the directions and topo for the Chained block earlier.

[Houdini]

Don't apologise it's not possible to hotlink AKA post pix from bleau.oui

When you see a pic you want to link:

1)  R click, select properties, copy URL
2)  Paste copied URL into (img]paste it here[/img)  But don't use curving brackets, just square ones.  I use curving as it makes the post go bongo if I do.

Generate the (img][/img) boxes by clicking on the picture/landscape icon when you make a post.  Second from left bottom row of options above the writing box.

[205Chris]

Does anyone know what the thing at the very left hand end of cottage rocks is?

Looks like it sit starts the arete on a line of small crimps. Name? Grade?

[mini]

I asked the exact same question a couple of pages previous to this. There is no name coming forth from the first ascentionist, and the grade going out to the arete and up is suggested at V9/V10, though I thought around the 7b / 7b+ mark. Still a good problem, get it done and let me know what you think.

[rainbow]

Thought I Big up The Mirf for doing the first Ascent of Cornelius E8 or Very Highball V9 at Ina's last Thursday.  Awesome Effort. More info can be found in the local news bit on Ukclimbing.
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/p32cyO0kfJI&rel=0&fs=1"></param><param name="wmode"

[andy popp]

Looks very cool. Nice steam train noises.

[rainbow]

If like me, you're a bit of a roof lover, check out these bad boys next time your down this way.

The Grasshopper Block



1 Turquoise = The Grasshopper, F6a+. Sit Start.
2 Red         = The Duck Billed Platypus, F7a. Sit Start
3 Yellow     = Tomahawk Traverse, F7a+. Link up of all the breaks. (holds on lower break in middle feel loose be carefull.)
4 Purple      = The Kookaburra, F6a. Same start as tomahawk Trav but gain slopey lip and head left to finish where ever you feel the need.

Ironicly, the closest climbable bit of rock nearest the car park. The way I normally go is park at Ramble's Retreat, head up the red road until you reach first passing place and head left up steep slope. when you reach the top head right. The block is on the Ramble's Retreat side of ridge, hidden amongst the under growth on the left abouts 25 metres on from where the land opens/levels out. Just look for the undergrowth  I've trambled down.

Three pics of the crux throw on The Duck Billed Platypus.







Pic of Crux on Tomahawk Traverse



Crappy Movies of most of problems.

1 Grasshopper. F6a+

http://www.youtube.com/v/nqDUnK7CYZw&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=

2 Duck Billed Platypus. F7a

http://www.youtube.com/v/5Y4OoTlxBgs&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=

3 The Tomahawk Traverse F7a+

http://www.youtube.com/v/iwwMin99S3E&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=

Enjoy.

[dave k]

I did a couple of problems at the right hand end of Wrights, but have misplaced the topo. The two problems were

- A problem finishing up and right to the 7a  near the end of the traverse - right of undercling problem
- Arete right of "the 7a crack" - from under roof

What are they called and what grade? my guess is 7a+/7b, 6c+ respectively.






 

[dave k]

I asked the exact same question a couple of pages previous to this. There is no name coming forth from the first ascentionist, and the grade going out to the arete and up is suggested at V9/V10, though I thought around the 7b / 7b+ mark. Still a good problem, get it done and let me know what you think.

Had a go at this this morning. Was far too scared of flappers too contemplate pulling on that pebble. I worked out (although did not link) a direct finish (similar to the V8 one mentioned earlier, but using a hold to the right of the pebble instead.) The arete without the pebble would be a worthy eliminate- you never know that pebble might one day get pulled off. 

[mini]

The arete without the pebble would be a worthy eliminate- you never know that pebble might one day get pulled off. 

I wouldn't even class it as an eliminate. I looked at using the pebble but decided it was easier without it. What would you suggest grade wise? Might have a play down there monday if your about?

[dave k]

I was planning on a trip to the Churnet on Monday. What time were you thinking? My main target is the v7 traverse - on the Out There buttress.

I am definitely up for another play on the cottage arete. I am not sure on the grade- It would not surprise me if it was v9- possibly a flappertastic hard V8 with that pebble. I have not reached the arete yet and think the next two moves will be the crux.  I am fully stretched out with LH on the dishy sidepull and RH on the last  v good crimp- heel on the starting hand hold. There are the two relatively poor lip slopers (instead of the pebble) that I might have to utilise to reach the arete.

[Mirf]

The link for the Wright's topo is here

I've done a few tweaks but please feel free to comment on the grades etc.

http://www.leopoldkroll.com/web/content/dnld/WrightsRock.rar

you will need winrar or similar program to open it.

Mirf

[dave k]

Cheers again - very useful topo. How many repeats has Instant Funk had- is it really 7a+? That first move from kneeling must be 7b surely. Unlike mini the top move (i.e. not using the pocket) is tough for me- maybe its a reach thing- I have to really fly at the top hold and find sticking it a tough proposition. Maybe I just need to get stronger.

[dave k]

Does anyone have any info on War Child? Does it go straight up from the finish of the 7a problem, or did he move left onto the poorer slopers and use the two thin underclings?

[mini]

move left onto the poorer slopers and use the two thin underclings?

As above, hard! Had a few plays and getting acros on those holds is beastly, probably have to wait till winter for a proper play on this.

Ill be in touch about tomorrow, looks like we could have a good session on our hands!

[Mirf]

Not sure quite where this goes. I've got as far as moving left to a better hold asnd then trying to crimp like hell on the slopey crimp in the roof, I think moving left more to the undercuts may be the way. Someone was telling me that point break can be finished on the same undercut?

[rainbow]

How many repeats has Instant Funk had- is it really 7a+? That first move from kneeling must be 7b surely. Unlike mini the top move (i.e. not using the pocket) is tough for me- maybe its a reach thing- I have to really fly at the top hold and find sticking it a tough proposition. Maybe I just need to get stronger.

Think you mean Out There and Back. Instant Funk is the Traverse. Was playing on the traverse today, the last move is ok to get but matching it to finish is damm hard.  Maybe I'll be able to tick it this winter. Judging by chalk another addition has been made to the right of Out There and Back, nice moves!

Also Rob if you're out there, realised a prob missing on topo. No 8 in BMC Roaches guide on main bit of Wright's.

[mini]

Judging by chalk another addition has been made to the right of Out There and Back, nice moves!

That would be me and Dave K on monday, starting from a very crimpy and strenny sit start!  Quite a tricky final move too!

[mini]

Just to add, went back this morn and ticked said problem. The problem is to the right hand end of the Out There area, starting on crimps down and left at the end of the inital break on the Instant Funk traverse. A hard pull to get heel on leads into pockets on IF, reach up to slopey crimps directly above, then a long spam out left to a break.

This is Been Caught Stealing, around the 7a/7a+ mark, named after the first track on my mp3 after returning to the car and inkeeping with Mirfin's musical theme for IF which it crosses.

[Ena]

Ironicly, the closest climbable bit of rock nearest the car park. The way I normally go is park at Ramble's Retreat, head up the red road until you reach first passing place and head left up steep slope. when you reach the top head right. The block is on the Ramble's Retreat side of ridge, hidden amongst the under growth on the left abouts 25 metres on from where the land opens/levels out. Just look for the undergrowth  I've trambled down.

I'm hoping to look at the grasshopper block on Tuesday. Could you please clarify which way/passing space you mean? Is it on the Alton side of the cafe or the other side? And does it get much seepage?

Cheers!

Ian

[rainbow]

I'm hoping to look at the grasshopper block on Tuesday. Could you please clarify which way/passing space you mean? Is it on the Alton side of the cafe or the other side? And does it get much seepage?

Cheers!

Ian

Its on the other side of the cafe mate, follow the red road as you would for oakamoor. The passing place is on the left 60/70 metres from car park. Its pretty steep, but quick. Tricky to locate, best bet is to look out for the undergrowth thats been trambled down. It doesn't really seep much, the lower half can be affected by condensation, should be ok on tues. Good luck on finding it, let me know what you think.

[Ena]

Great thanks, I'll let you how I get on. That's where I'd assumed it was, by the way, but didn't want to end up thrashing around for hours on the wrong hillside. It has been known to happen.