[rainbow]

Anyone got any details on the Welford problem at the left hand end of Cottage Rocks that traverses into and up the undercut arete? Name and grade would be useful.

Always thought this was another Mike Adams prob below see down this thread.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=4309.msg57067#msg57067

Not spent much time on it, but its on my list this winter.

[mini]

Cheers for that, always thought it was one of Welfords, best guess guessed wrong! Had a wee play at the start of spring, okay getting toward the arete, guess thats where the 7c starts!

[mini]

Did that Out There And Back earlier this week. A soft 7b+ maybe, but I can't see how it can be 2 grades easier (as per Mirf's mini guide) by using the the large pocket / pinch for the last move. Going direct from break to crimpy rail aint much more effort and the crux is definately the bottom setion (crux is getting right hand fingers out of the painful mono/finger lock to throw for the break).

[rainbow]

Did that Out There And Back earlier this week. A soft 7b+ maybe,

Well done! Think you bagged the 2nd ascent, I reckon 7b, and 7a+ for Instantly Out There. Think I bumped into you earlier today amongst the condensation and minging conditions. Its Official, The Churnet Season has begun!!

[mini]

Did that Out There And Back earlier this week. A soft 7b+ maybe,

Well done! Think you bagged the 2nd ascent, I reckon 7b, and 7a+ for Instantly Out There. Think I bumped into you earlier today amongst the condensation and minging conditions. Its Official, The Churnet Season has begun!!

Twas me. Its on the Mirf guide at 7b+, but suggest its soft at that grade. Next Churnet tick is Mike Adam's prow problem at Cottage, which feels more top 7b+ than 7c. Shame we don't have a name to go with it.

Guess ya didn't hang round too long on Sunday, I think were I met ya was the only dry spot for miles around - welcome to autumn eh?

[rainbow]

When the Prow problem was originally reported (can't find exact thread on here), I printed it off and there seems an easy/hard way. Easy way goes up to broken pebble and slap for the top V8 ish. Hard way uses the broken pebble to gain the arete V9/10. Weather looks good for the next few days, so should dry out in no time.

[mini]

I know the broken pebble you're refering to, but haven't used it as yet (wary of Churnet pebbles and all that!) to get to the arete. Should hopefully have a play this weekend if the weather picks up.

[AndiT]

I had a bad thought on Wednesday.

I finally cracked the Wrong Traverse and found myself shaking out at the end of Wright's traverse. The only thing in my mind was Mirf's topo in which I remembered reading that linking the low traverse into the high reverse may warrant F8a+. I got grade hungry and the happiness of succeeding on the Wrong Trav quickly disappated, I was grade hungry. This was bad enough thought in itself.

I set off back along the familiar holds and with the burn building in my arms I arrived at the crux cross through spanned out with my feet and slapped left into the bucket which would spell the end of the hard climbing and assure the tick! I got the hold, and my left foot pogo-ed off the ground. I was hanging, alone, on the jugs. And that's when it came to me "close enough, Andi". I hung and tried to justify my thoughts. I mean, it's only because I'm tall that my foot hit the ground, right? Could I live with myself, live the lie? I know that so many people do, and if anyone doubted me, I'd be able to demonstrate the problem convincingly.

I dropped to the ground. It'll only taste that much sweeter, when I finally do the link.

And so ends my confession.

[dave]

you should have carried on for training if nothing else!

[AndiT]

   I mistakenly thought I might have the juice for another crack!

[mini]

The curse of being tall 

[Eddies]

3 inches too strong!? 

[fashionguru]

Sorry Guys,

No names for you on the cottage rocks problems (cant even remember if Mike gave them names) but here's a link to the original write up.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html

Cheers

Tony

[rainbow]

Damm gutted, perfect weather on Mon but organised to take friends from work to Climbing Works, So had to make do with all the rain on Tue. Did however manage Wrongs Traverse by the skin of my teeth. Was on my own so vid isn't the best.

[AndiT]

Well done Stu  I did this a month or so ago too, would you agree there are atleast a couple of grades difference betwen it and it's higher brother? They can't both be 7b can they, and I also can't see the link being route F8a+?

It's good though, despite being inches from the ground. The mono is just how they all should be!

[etjoset]

Andi, I did both wright's and Wrong's traverse earlier this year and I honesty thought that they were both fair at 7b. That said, I can see that if you're tall then Wright's might feel 7a+ and Wrong's 7b+. The mono on Wrong's is definitely the key. I haven't done it but would have thought that there and back might warrant F8a as a route grade.

[AndiT]

Fair enough, maybe it comes down to familiarity, it just doesn't make sense to me that I could warm up on a few traverses of Wright's to get me ready for an attempt on Wrong's. I also see that perhaps it could be 7a+ and 7b+, maybe more appropriate.

Hey, I'd happily take F8a for a link up, if that's the consensus, I suppose it's difficult to make a comparison when I've never done a F8a traversing route in the Churnet!

[rainbow]

I did this a month or so ago too, would you agree there are atleast a couple of grades difference betwen it and it's higher brother? They can't both be 7b can they, and I also can't see the link being route F8a+?

Would have to agree with the comments that etjoset wrote, 7b seems fair. If I had to put my neck on the line would say Wrights is a tiny bit harder. Maybe it down to body types! The ultimate link up would have to be Wrong's into Wrights finished off by Simple Simon. Something "The Tor Types" would make light work of!

[AndiT]

That link up would be horrible! Even better would be to finish it with the project dyno.

I suppose it was a bit hopeful that we might agree on grades!

[Jaspersharpe]

I suppose it was a bit hopeful that we might agree on grades!

Especially when the grades are around 7b eh Andi? 

[AndiT]

Yeah, everything is 7b, I'm used to it now. I think graded lists are the way forward.....

[BVT]

Can anyone help me out with a better steer towards the Chained Block?  Last week i felt like i was going to get benighted plodding around what i thought were the woods opposite Gentleman's.

Thanks in anticipation.

[rainbow]

Can anyone help me out with a better steer towards the Chained Block?  Last week i felt like i was going to get benighted plodding around what i thought were the woods opposite Gentleman's.

Thanks in anticipation.

I'll try and describe the easiest way to find it. On the main footpath way before Gentleman's and after The Virgin Wall Is a Footpath which comes down from Wrights. At the same point there is another footpath which drops down to the stream and cross's a bridge, take this and go left after the bridge. Follow this path until it splits, Take the right hand path for about 40m Its on the hillside on the right and should be pretty obvious. From this path I approached the block from the right hand side. Hope this makes more sense. Any comments Good/Bad or indifferent would be appreciated. Enjoy.

[BVT]

Hope this makes more sense.

It does, thanks.  I'll let you know how i get on!

[rainbow]

Had a play on Breathe last Friday, was curious to see if it was as hard as I remember. Was pleasantly surprised, In good conditions felt like F6c+ / F7a for the standing start. The line to the right was done last April by Mr Dave M. Jump start to break then either dyno/rock out for top. Sufforcation F6a. (Almost stopped us "Breathing") named cos accidently stood on crucial crimp and a tiny bit crumbled off. He was truly gutted that he had been so clumsy. Vid of Breathe below for anyone who's interested.

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