Not sure that climbingjohn is familiar with forum grammar etiquette just yet.
and i never just hang from the fingers, i try to pull the hold, that avoids the hyperextension of the elbow, that is as dangerous as the full lock off. and ive also discovered that it helps you holding, prolly cos the pull activates a stronger muscular chain.
i guess most people don't try them this long because fingerboards have a rep for giving your injuries if hanging for long periods, but i recon that's probably a throwback from the '80s where it seems people used to hang with arms locked out straight for as long as possible which gives you bad 'bows.
I have no science to back me up either, just what I can remember from different sources. Surely the sports specific argument would suggest that hanging on for 30 seconds would only get you strong at hanging on for 30 seconds.
Anyone got any thoughts on the fingerboard routine on 8a.nu?http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml
Now then,I would suggest 5 reps of 25-30 sec hangs using both hands with weight (if needed.) The principles of strength training with regards static (isometric) contractions is very different from that of concentric and eccentric contractions. The duration of a static contraction in order to achieve the required overload for an increase in strength is in the region of 25-30sec, according to the majority of reliable research. The reason I tend to use two handed hangs is that the grip position is more specific ‘front on.’ Also. I tend to train all three grip positions in a session. You need to increase the volume (reps) from 2-5 as you improve. Only when you can complete the hangs for five reps would I increase the load. The rest period between hangs that I use is 3min, with 10min between changing grip position. Steve D.