Not sure that climbingjohn is familiar with forum grammar etiquette just yet.
and i never just hang from the fingers, i try to pull the hold, that avoids the hyperextension of the elbow, that is as dangerous as the full lock off. and ive also discovered that it helps you holding, prolly cos the pull activates a stronger muscular chain.
i guess most people don't try them this long because fingerboards have a rep for giving your injuries if hanging for long periods, but i recon that's probably a throwback from the '80s where it seems people used to hang with arms locked out straight for as long as possible which gives you bad 'bows.
I have no science to back me up either, just what I can remember from different sources. Surely the sports specific argument would suggest that hanging on for 30 seconds would only get you strong at hanging on for 30 seconds.
Anyone got any thoughts on the fingerboard routine on 8a.nu?http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml
Now then,I would suggest 5 reps of 25-30 sec hangs using both hands with weight (if needed.) The principles of strength training with regards static (isometric) contractions is very different from that of concentric and eccentric contractions. The duration of a static contraction in order to achieve the required overload for an increase in strength is in the region of 25-30sec, according to the majority of reliable research. The reason I tend to use two handed hangs is that the grip position is more specific ‘front on.’ Also. I tend to train all three grip positions in a session. You need to increase the volume (reps) from 2-5 as you improve. Only when you can complete the hangs for five reps would I increase the load. The rest period between hangs that I use is 3min, with 10min between changing grip position. Steve D.
Now then,I would suggest 5 reps of 25-30 sec hangs using both hands with weight (if needed.)
It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much.
More than climbing?!? ???
Surely V7 climbers just want to be climbing rather than training? I think undertaking a 6 day a week deadhang structure is somewhat intense. . It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much.
When climbing indoors i think it really helps to climb with someone whose strengths are not the same as yours. For example: I climb with a crimp fiend who bones (in the climbing sense of course) all holds.
Quote from: unclesomebody on January 17, 2007, 11:33:28 amSurely V7 climbers just want to be climbing rather than training? I think undertaking a 6 day a week deadhang structure is somewhat intense. . It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much. I agree with this fully, i reckon climbing a good mix of indoors and outdoors with different people is the best way to build strength up when at this level.Perhaps maybe 1 or 2 light sessions of finger boarding a week just to help those fingers on their way. When climbing indoors i think it really helps to climb with someone whose strengths are not the same as yours. For example: I climb with a crimp fiend who bones (in the climbing sense of course) all holds. My weakness is crimping but i have better arm and body strength than him. You help each other in your weaker areas by doing what the other does.On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!
Quote from: monkey boy on January 17, 2007, 01:03:25 pmOn another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!You better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams...
On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!
I hope you weren't referring to me then? I wouldn't be seen dead crimping. Dirty things. I have been deadhanging for quite a few years now and not really had as much success as I would like with the 1 armed 6, seconds rule. I'll definitely give some longer, 2 armed ones a try.
You better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams...
Quote from: unclesomebody on January 17, 2007, 01:29:11 pmYou better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams... I dont understand!! Should I?! Haha
Quote from: monkey boy on January 17, 2007, 01:03:25 pmOn another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!Amen to that brother. Fuck the exams, let's hope this sunny weather we've got today continues until the weekend so Caley may actually be dry...
I'm saying that you grasp the English language at the level of a primary school student. I also know that you are not in primary school, so if you put these two things together you'll realise what I'm saying....
i have just got my moon board and have read a few articles saying that you should only be hanging for around 6-8 secs on each hang. is this the norm or do people hang for longer times or to failure. thought i would find out bfore i destroy my tendons. cheers
would hanging for longer durations improve endurance?