[Krank]

i have just got my moon board and have read a few articles saying that you should only be hanging for around 6-8 secs on each hang. is this the norm or do people hang for longer times or to failure. thought i would find out bfore i destroy my tendons. cheers

[monkey boy]

When doing one armed hangs (assisted of course) i do it for between 6-8 seconds. I dont really do double armed hangs anymore only to warm up but i used to do them for 10seconds. this is probably a bit long as it starts to go into endurance rather than just strength but i think a mix of times is good.

For assurance though most people i no do hang for between 6-8 seconds!
Enjoy the hanging!!

[Houdini]

What the fuck is a durtion?

[Monolith]

Not sure that climbingjohn is familiar with forum grammar etiquette just yet. 

[Johnny Brown]

Westie and The Higg used to lock off until they blacked out. That's how you get strong.

[Houdini]

It all fits in nicely: one time I witnessed Higg smashing his forarm against a climbing wall with a "Work!  Fucking work will ya!".

Deadhangs?  Rarely.  Generally try and move on holds rather than locking forever, momentum good.  It sure is piss boring too.   

[Krank]

yeah ok sorry duration

[Krank]

oh yeah and thanks for the hanging advice, dont think im up for blackin out but cheers

[BenF]

Not sure that climbingjohn is familiar with forum grammar etiquette just yet. 

Tut tut Tom.  Surely you mean forum spelling etiquette?   

Maybe we need some kind of guidance notes for these problems.   

[Monolith]

Good grammar begins with capital letters B-boy  But yes, spelling is what I meant home boy.

[BenF]

 

I wish I had the will to out-pedant you Tom.  But I don't today I'm afraid. 

[dave]

there was a thread on here years ago where steve dunning said he got biggest gains from doing 30second hangs! which seems contrary to most schools of thought, but he might have something there. i guess most people don't try them this long because fingerboards have a rep for giving your injuries if hanging for long periods, but i recon that's probably a throwback from the '80s where it seems people used to hang with arms locked out straight for as long as possible which gives you bad 'bows.

[richdraws]

I have been trying to reduce the amount of assistance needed to one arm dead hang a small campus rung edge. I started with straight arms (almost straight for those of you worried about my elbows and shoulders) and 2 fingers assistance from the other arm, then a mono assistance etc...

now I have reduced the assistance to a pinch on the roof. However to use it I have to lock off at 90 degrees. (I have no problems maintaining the lock off whilst I hang.)

Does anyone have any experience or science as to whether locking off whilst training max finger strength is a good or a bad?

Does this even make sense?

[Nibile]

my advice:

training exclusively for bouldering, i just go for max strength, so the likes of 4-6 seconds hangs on the smaller holds i can. i wouldnt suggest using bigger holds with wheights. obviously not crimped, i always use my fingers semi-crimped.
and i never just hang from the fingers, i try to pull the hold, that avoids the hyperextension of the elbow, that is as dangerous as the full lock off. and ive also discovered that it helps you holding, prolly cos the pull activates a stronger muscular chain.

and to help me on the holds i cant hang i use a small cable attached to a wheight belt, that goes into a pulley and has wheights on the opposite side that actually push me up. its very good to train with and to check you progress.

ciao.

[Ste]

Now then,
I would suggest 5 reps of 25-30 sec hangs using both hands with weight (if needed.) The principles of strength training with regards static (isometric) contractions is very different from that of concentric and eccentric contractions. The duration of a static contraction in order to achieve the required overload for an increase in strength is in the region of  25-30sec, according to the majority of reliable research. The reason I tend to use two handed hangs is that the grip position is more specific ‘front on.’ Also. I tend to train all three grip positions in a session. You need to increase the volume (reps) from 2-5 as you improve. Only when you can complete the hangs for five reps would I increase the load. The rest period between hangs that I use is 3min, with 10min between changing grip position.

Steve D.

[fatdoc]

i dont dare disagree with the science of this - but God..... how long does a session take you!

I'm keen to use the focused methodology to train - but i reckon dead hangs of that magnitude and duration would take the best part of an afternoon... i'd die of boredom. probably why i'm so weak i suppose!

[BD]

and i never just hang from the fingers, i try to pull the hold, that avoids the hyperextension of the elbow, that is as dangerous as the full lock off. and ive also discovered that it helps you holding, prolly cos the pull activates a stronger muscular chain.

i guess most people don't try them this long because fingerboards have a rep for giving your injuries if hanging for long periods, but i recon that's probably a throwback from the '80s where it seems people used to hang with arms locked out straight for as long as possible which gives you bad 'bows.

damn, so if i'm right it's bad to either hang fully locked or totally straight? i've always been doing it with straight arms because i thought pull-ups (and especially reversed ones) were bad . from now on it all slightly bend (170° angle) or pull-ups than.

BD

[richdraws]

I have no science to back me up either, just what I can remember from different sources. Surely the sports specific argument would suggest that hanging on for 30 seconds would only get you strong at hanging on for 30 seconds. The load would have to be much lower than what you could hold for 4-8 seconds. So how would you develop the limit strength required to deadhang an edge (for say the few seconds or so before you get your feet back on after a hard dynamic move). Dave MacLeod, Rich Simpson etc all suggest times of between 4 and 12 secs ish (I am not quoting here).

Limit strength is seldom held for more than a few seconds, front levers are excellent but you wouldnt be holding them for 30 seconds? If you could surely you should be doing John Gills one arm lever?

[205Chris]

Anyone got any thoughts on the fingerboard routine on 8a.nu?

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml

[Nibile]

the 10, 15 or 20 mins routines are very useful (they have been for me at least) to prepare for routes. you can recreate bits of your project and get used to it.
they are also nice if youre bored by dead hanging.

[dave]

I have no science to back me up either, just what I can remember from different sources. Surely the sports specific argument would suggest that hanging on for 30 seconds would only get you strong at hanging on for 30 seconds.

I doubt its as simple as that! these things rarely are - the human body is a complicated mutha.

[BD]

Anyone got any thoughts on the fingerboard routine on 8a.nu?

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml

i liked it because i find it hard to write a routine down myself. i did make some small personal adjustments thought because they didn't use many different holds (no real difference between bi- and tridoigt, half crimp or open handed) and i think the times they use are too long. it depends on how you interpret it of course but 25 seconds on the smallest holds is a bit too long don't you think?

BD

[John Cooke]

Now then,
I would suggest 5 reps of 25-30 sec hangs using both hands with weight (if needed.) The principles of strength training with regards static (isometric) contractions is very different from that of concentric and eccentric contractions. The duration of a static contraction in order to achieve the required overload for an increase in strength is in the region of  25-30sec, according to the majority of reliable research. The reason I tend to use two handed hangs is that the grip position is more specific ‘front on.’ Also. I tend to train all three grip positions in a session. You need to increase the volume (reps) from 2-5 as you improve. Only when you can complete the hangs for five reps would I increase the load. The rest period between hangs that I use is 3min, with 10min between changing grip position.

Steve D.

How many sessions do you do a week Ste?

John.

[Ste]

Depends on what 'cycle' im on.

At the moment I train six days a week, on two of those days I have two sessions in a day. I tend to train the smaller muscle groups (fingers) after the big groups. Usually when training strength I would have 2-5 sessions of hangs in a week, following a morning session of training arms/core work. I tend to complete hangs on six week cycles. I dont increase the intensity of the exercises until I have completed a six weeks cycle. On week 1 I would only have 1 session of hangs and build in a session every week until week five. You need to increase the volume before you increase the intensity. After the cycle you either increase the intensity and start again or you maintain your gains by having one session per week.

Steve D.

[richdraws]

Right, I reckon the only way for me to see if it works is to bloody well get off my arse and try it. I have tried the shorter duration hangs and have seen reasonable results so am gonna try the longer sets now.

Should I aim for the 6 days?

Or is a lesser number of days a better idea for a bog standard v7 ish boulderer?

Thanks

Rich